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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

  1. #481
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    For some of the stickiest stuff I go with the hard core Goo-Gone and the direct substitute K-1 Kerosene. Just rag the liquid solvent and let it soak into the adhesive. Be careful that the background you are removing the stickiness from can withstand the petrol-based products. Test a small area...

    Hope you get the bug out of the tune soon.

    The best of luck to you as you are home!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

  2. #482
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    So glad you two aren't in charge of R&D at Trojan.


    No todo que es oro brilla.

  3. #483
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AgentOrange View Post
    So glad you two aren't in charge of R&D at Trojan.
    So's my wife.

    Finally got around to pulling the rear shocks today. Let's take a walk through the procedure...

    First thing to do is remove the shock from the car. Lots of information on this so I didn't document it. If putting on new top hats you should loosen the spring locking rings to relieve the preload on the spring before removing the shock. You can do it afterwards but it's a little bit harder. Once the shock is out you want to turn the damping all the way clockwise. Next is the removal of the adjuster using a 14 mm wrench (it just unscrews):



    With that off you can see the reason for turning the adjuster all the way down. There is a rod running through the middle of the shock shaft that needs to be down so that you can use an Allen wrench to hold the shaft from turning while removing the top nut. If you squint you should be able to see the hex machined inside the shaft:



    With that off you can disassemble the shock parts:



    Notice there is a spacer on top of the top hat that fits into the bore on the top hat, one on the bottom and then another spacer that is machined. This lower spacer serves to locate the dust boot, it fits over a tapered section of the shock shaft. It needed some persuasion with a dead-blow hammer to get it loose off the shaft.

    I couldn't find any instructions for using the Feal top hats with Ohlins. GoodWin says you can use them but the various spacers etc make it a little confusing. I ended up using the dust boot locating spacer along with the rubber spring isolator on the bottom of the top hat, and one of the provided washers underneath the lock nut on top. With everything put together I wasn't able to get the correct spring compressed length. For now I went back with the Ohlins provided top hats. I did replace their bumpstops with some cut-down Integra bumpstops as seen in the BBB thread:



    Note these are loose on the shaft but that shouldn't be an issue, they will just sit on top of the shock under normal circumstances. When I was messing around with the shocks I found that the spring preload on the right side was higher than the left side. I'm not sure how that happened because I recall checking those measurement several times when setting them up during my initial installation (and the locking rings were tight). In any case they are both even now.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    This ain't no build thread!

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  5. #484
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AgentOrange View Post
    So glad you two aren't in charge of R&D at Trojan.
    No hijack. But Vasectomy clears up a lot of cash for a Miata build and home repairs. Just sayin'.

    Lovely work Chief! Are we going to get road test data (seat-of-the-pants dyno) on the suspension before you head out? I hope so!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

  6. #485
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Provided the rain stops I'll be out tomorrow running some errands and doing some tuning, so of course I will be posting about the impressions of my hiney.

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  8. #486
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Got my new license plate lights today. The new ones are slightly different from the originals as you can see on the left (fixed) side of both:





    The stopper on the new one has a flat area while the old one had a peak. The new one is much easier to get in and out. To remove either type you slide it to the right (follow the arrow imprinted on the plastic) and then gently pry up the other side. With the old style installing was easiest by putting the fixed (left) side into the opening and then pushing down on the right side. With the new one it is easiest to install the opposite of removal (insert right side, push over then push down on the left side).

    Got some tuning done, she's running well although I still have the gas smell under boost. As for handling, it is probably my imagination but it felt a little more balanced side to side from how it was before I adjusted the spring preload in the rear so it was even on both sides.

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  10. #487
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Took my buddy to cars and coffee today:



    He loves riding in the Miata.

    I was planning on doing a fun run autocross tomorrow, but a new issue has cropped up. Under steady throttle my AFRs start jumping around intermittently (going rich mainly) for no apparent reason. I don't know if this could be an ignition or injector problem but no performance driving until I get it figured out.

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  12. #488
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Car looks amazing. Out of curiosity, what ride height are you running at?

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  14. #489
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Did your buddy hit a double-shot Espresso and want to drive home? You gonna make some pedal extensions for him?

    On a serious note. You said the AF went screwy... Could it be RF interference? Try putting tight fitting wire loom on the harness and wrapping foil on the outside then grounding one end to a good ground.

    I have run into some Ford 500 and Mercury Montegos that have a 130 deg. bend near the firewall and have made new wiring bundles for them in the past. Those break the wires when the engine moves as the mounts break-down. HTH!

    Did you torque the A/F sensor or just wrench it? A/Fs are picky on the install. Just an addendum.
    Last edited by NCGreasemonkey; 10-22-2016 at 05:37 PM. Reason: I think about cars too much
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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  16. #490
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Yeah, he wishes he could drive it. He already has enough energy, espresso not needed (double-strength or otherwise).

    Right now I'm leaning towards a possible coil problem as opposed to RF interference. Not saying it can't be that, and I appreciate the info in case I need to go that route. I just tightened the wideband O2 sensor like I normally do, it operates normally most of the time and given the hesitation the engine exhibits when the AFR goes weird I don't think it's just a sensor issue.

    Yesterday I swapped out the coils to see if I could cure the erratic steady-state operation. Went to the post office, after leaving there everything was warm so I proceeded to get on it. At approximately 4000 rpm I got a stutter and power was not there. The exhaust note had changed as well. I backed off the throttle then eased into it again but it didn't go away. With a sick feeling in my stomach I limped her home watching the gauges and listening for any signs of an increase in the problem. Parked her in the garage and left her sit overnight.

    Since the last thing I did was change the coils, I put the other set back in. Checked the spark plugs as I went, and sure enough the #3 cylinder showed signs that it wasn't firing. Started her up and everything was back to normal. That was a big load off my mind. I've already ordered a new set of coils off Rock Auto so I can be sure that everything is up to snuff.

    FYI, a Miata running on 3 cylinders sounds like a constipated Subaru.

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  18. #491
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Car looks amazing. Out of curiosity, what ride height are you running at?
    I'll take some measurements and post later today. I'm heading out to do some tuning here in a bit.

    EDIT: I'm sitting at approximately 312 mm/12.25" wheel center to fender lip square all around. I know most people run 1/4-1/2" stagger front to rear but I dropped mine to see if it would help my oversteer.
    Last edited by chiefmg; 10-25-2016 at 03:34 PM.

  19. #492
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey View Post
    If you get a chance, I know you are busy, shoot a picture of your rear mounting point for the Rouku. I'm curious just how different that rear section is.

    I altered my mount because of a hidden hitch that is not a Hard Dog. But that will change to a Hard Dog sometime as their unit is frame connector and hidden hitch. Whereas my PO installed a 'style-bar' rated hidden hitch. I got a slinky in my rear (style bar type hitch).

    Thanks,
    I hadn't forgotten about your request, just never thought to have the camera handy. Been busy doing some house stuff today so decided it was time I took the pictures. First one is the factory hook location, second is of the RR NB hook:





    You can see how the RR hook brackets the factory one. When I pulled mine off I found it had scraped on the bottom at some point. I don't remember hearing any bad noises so hard to say when it happened.

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  21. #493
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    New coils came in, I sanded down the sides so they would fit within the valley on the cam cover and installed them. Fired her up and even before she warmed up idling was lumpy. I put the other Toyota coils back in and she ran fine. Signed up for an autocross on Sunday, ran her around town on Saturday and was getting that intermittent weird change in the AFRs with the rough running. That shot the autocross plans in the ass. I didn't really mess with her over the last few days outside of thinking about possible causes and what I could do about them. Figured I should get a datalog so ran an errand tonight to do that. Unfortunately I didn't set it up properly beforehand so the data was not saved. On the plus side, I did buy Megalog Viewer so I can have a look at things when I do get a log and hopefully see what is going on.

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  23. #494
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Had some input from a friend about my issue, so tried reducing the nominal dwell setting for the coils down to 1.8 ms. Had a drive, did some tuning and then took a datalog. Haven't looked at the log yet but she ran pretty well. The AFR gauge was doing a little dancing but the car wasn't jerking as it was before. I may be onto something here...

    Picked up my most recent eBay purchase from the post office today. Love it:


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  25. #495
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    The other day after some research I changed the dwell battery correction table in Tuner Studio to match my COPs. Since that I have not had a repeat of the issue I was seeing with the AFR weirdness. I'm not ready to call it fixed just yet though. I did find out that you have to start a log from the menu at the top of the TS page. This will give you a file with a .msl extension and shows whatever parameters you have set to record. I was doing it through the Diagnostic and High Speed Logger tab at the top of the gauge panel, however this only records specific parameters in a .csv file. I'll be taking another log the next time I go out.

    Since I was already on the garage floor this morning changing the oil in the CX-5, I decided to try changing out the exhaust hanger at the back of the mid-pipe for a urethane one I had lying around. First time I've used those, and damn are they hard to get into place. It didn't help that it was slightly shorter than the rubber one it replaced. I used WD-40 for lube and ended up having to use a large screwdriver in the slot in the middle of the hanger to lever it up enough to get it over the chassis mount. It is holding the rear of the mid-pipe very nicely now, no more chance of it moving around allowing contact with my rear subframe brace.

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