Smartphone Stereo Integration/Replacement

[CMP]

I recently installed this into my car and I've had some inquiries on how it works, so I decided to write up the diagrams and point you to the products you need to make it work and say goodbye to your traditional head unit.

Things you'll need:

- iSimple PolyWire IS75: This has an iPhone connector as well as a 2mm audio connector for other Smartphones. I picked this up off of Amazon.com for $15 + shipping as an 'open box' special.

- PAC LC-1 remote level controller: This is a conventional means to control your audio volume via a knob, since some smartphones won't allow adjustment of the audio while docked. Also around $15 on Amazon.com.

- A cradle for the phone (optional). I used a RAM products iPhone 4 dock, which the last item on this page, less than $10.

- A 2-channel amplifier for running without subwoofers, or a 4-channel amplifier for use with subwoofers. My installation uses subwoofers but I have provided both wiring schematics. Wattage may vary, I use a 200w amp for my project and it handles the sound just fine. YMMV.

- An adapter harness for your stock audio harness. This is optional if you don't give a crap about hacking your stock harness.

Follow the schematics below for hooking up the components. For those who wish to keep headrest speakers, they are interchangeable with either the tweeters or the subwoofers in either schematic. Just follow the instructions and adjust your subwoofer bandpass filters accordingly.

If you can't figure out how to run wires through the cockpit or tap power sources, this probably isn't the project for you.



For installations with subwoofers:

iPhone Stereo Subs.jpg



For installations without subwoofers:

iPhone Stereo No Subs.jpg


There are a few optional components you can add, such as equalizers or bluetooth connectivity, which just replace or are wired in between the components listed here.




End result:

ddmworks.jpg

[Demon I Am]

great!

[— Agent☣Orange —]

So no head unit at all, just a nice hi-fi system based on a smart phone. Pretty cool.

[SM16RMSM]

So no head unit at all, just a nice hi-fi system based on a smart phone. Pretty cool.

I was planning on going this route since I really don't need a head unit but I bought your head unit instead. And I had it all planned out too.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

That kenwood head unit is nice though. Lots of sound tailoring you can't do with a phone plus no stupid CD player. I'll take it back if you don't want it. ;)

[—Martin—]

Right now I'm plugging my iphone into a Rockford Fosgate amp that's almost as old as my car. I use a mini jack to RCA cable and use the phone's volume buttons. It's okay, but the solution above would be better, I'm sure.

[HELLIONMX5]

will this work with a bose system?

[CMP]

I don't see why not but I don't know anything about the Bose systems. NA4Lyfe!

[— kung fu jesus —]

On a Bose system, it's a bit tricky. The Bose speakers use very low impedance speakers, so an aftermarket amp has to be able to handle it, few can. The other route is to bypass the factory Bose system altogether. This requires new speakers, amp and wires. I am sure there are other ways, but you need to understand the Bose system's specs.

Just my opinion, but the Bose system is not that good.

I ran a mechless headunit (JVC-no CD player), a small 300w 2 channel amp, new 8" door speakers, and new speaker wires. Maybe spent $350 altogether, installed it myself, and it outclassed the factory Bose by a large margin. It also gave me iPod control+charging, Bluetooth, Pandora, hands-free calling, microphone, fantastic sound tailoring, better bass, and color-matching illumination. On top of that I was able to convert the Bose's clunky 2 din unit to a 1 din AND add an OEM cubby underneath the new headunit where you can run an integrated charging line separately for your phone or whatever.

I know this is differnt than the OPs config, but it's just a note that you can do better for little money than the OEM stuff.

This route allowed me to only need the power, switched power, ground and power antenna line to be wired to the new headunit, instead of having to dig into the centerstack console to cut and splice the wires off the Bose amps. The addition of the new amp and speaker wires means I just had to run one RCA cable from the headunit to the amp, power for the amp to the trunk, ground, and aremote line to power the amp on and off with the headunit. I ran higher-quality 12 gauge speaker wires from the amp to the doors using mostly stock locations.
(http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....ll=1#post85233)

[— Malibu Q —]

Thanks for this informative post. That iSimple PolyWire looks like a good product. I'm thinking of upgrading my audio after reading this.

[CMP]

It's a good product. It handles charging as well as audio distribution.

The nice thing about this setup is that when I replace my phone, I can opt to use the 2mm audio plug or replace the dock and PolyWire and still only be out about $10-$40 and a few minutes of effort.

[Demon I Am]

I'm interested in a bluetooth/no HU setup. The less cords to attach, the better, imho. I can use a removable charging cord when needed.
Something like this, but hard-wired in for power, connected directly to the amp, and hidden:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4V8RzDKSY8

[HELLIONMX5]

Recently i ordered an fam modulator bc my bose cd player didn't work all of a sudden. .......... can't wait to throw it off a bridge!


Anyone know the ohm for the Bose door speakers

[—tsingson—]

I believe they are something like 0.5 ohms.