Got a bunch of switches, wire spool, fuses. Help me with project ideas.

[silvermazda]

yeah...but its more expensive the otherway around.

[silvermazda]

Well, got the T-taps from Rockauto and plenty of buttconnectors. Basically set for life. I thought when they showed 1 buttconnector they meant 1 buttconnector. Turns out it was a package. Then I got a assorted 101pcs set from oreilies for 6 bucks.

Current goals:
-manual switch for AC fan
-another switch for dual fans (depending on which I end up liking)
-probs sourcing some power from wipermotor, abs, bose 20A circuit to power gauges: WB, coolant temp, if I ever get around to getting the begi spacer.
-still going back and forth on having B+ to window switch all the time. (it can be useful, or annoying)

[silvermazda]

Okay, update!!!
Wired my non existing AC back. TO be able to use the AC switch as intended.
-jumped the red "pressure switch" in the engine bay. Measure refrigerant pressure and says yes or nay to computer to click the ac clutch.
-reconnected the evap box thermocoupler that stops ac if it starts to freeze the evap box.

With all of that it allows me to push the AC switch when the blower fan is on and activate both fans (for cooling) and increase rpm to around 1200 (again, cooling and for increased batt load). I still have to find a way to unlink the AC switch from the blower motor. hm... This may also help warm up the car or at least I've been tinkering with the idea of having a switch that will run it at 1500rpm while I'm leaving the house.

I also spliced the coil ground side of the AC fan for manual control, did the wiring, but not the switch yet. (todo list)
I found the yellow cigarette lighter wire B+ 20A fused is of 16ga (i think) so that could be a useful source of power for aftermarket temp gauges.
I ran the windows off of that circuit using a harbor freight voltmeter each window motor uses 2.5a initially to 5amps. Quite low. For some reason mazda used 30A fuse there...

[silvermazda]

Update:
The AC switch actually activates both fans (some load), and raises ignition timing (from what I felt driving around, and that's why idle goes up as well). I am not to happy to put the ~5amps from blower fan, 15A from main fan, and another 5A from AC fan on the alt. (guesstimating). For the most part I only need one fan on a switch, so I will get working on a switch to ground the splice I made at the AC fan-ecu ground wire.
It would be nice to know what the ecu does to bump timing, without resorting to turning on both fans and the blower, which results in a medium sized load that makes the engine and alt work harder. In addition, more load equals more heat and fuel use.