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Thread: Wheel spacers for an enhanced look on lowered NC

  1. #1
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Guitarjon's Avatar
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    Wheel spacers for an enhanced look on lowered NC

    Hey guys, I've always been more performance orientated until now. I have a few simple plans for my NC to try and set it apart from he crowd but not by too much. I've been in contact with a fabricator who can make me some wheel spacers at a reasonable price for my NC. It's lowered and for safety reasons I won't go above 6mm depth.

    My questions are:

    Am I likely to get any rubbing at 6 mm on standard 17 inch NC rims?
    Will 6mm be noticeable to get the wheels sticking out further?

    As I won't be changing the wheels, just refurbing them ins graphite grey colour I don't really want to go down the whole fat hu centric spacer route, just a nice subtle change without going to big expenses. Hesse limiting to 6mm to retain the centre bore and keep the standard lug nuts.

    Here is a picture of how low my car is. It's not massively low but don't want to risk rubbing or arch mods.
    Previous car: NA 1990 classic red jrsc m45 with 150mm crank, intercooler, DIY pnp ms2, 340 cc injectors and lts of other mods including chassis bracing, roll bar, bc coilovers, RB exhaust.

    New car: 2.0 sport NC, sunlight silver, lowered, geo alignment,m
    Cosworth panel filter, r8 wiper mod, debadged rear with more to come.

  2. #2
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Nice car and good starting point.

    My thoughts: 6mm spacer is too conservative. You will hardly notice it... remember NC stock 17" wheels are +55 offset, 7" wide. Many aftermarket wheels that look "flush" (or at least not sunken terribly like our OEM rims) are approximately +45 offset plus 1 - 2" wider. So if you want to make spacers for the OEM 17" wheels that are worth your trouble, I would aim for a 15mm - 20mm spacer (I would not go beyond 20mm on a spacer, mind).

    Another consideration is cost. If you have an inside scoop on fabbing spacers cheap then great, but otherwise spacers for the MX5 tend to be fairly pricey and by the time you buy 4 you have spent 1/3 the cost of a quality set of wheels that would give you a more flush look anyway plus allow wider rubber plus, depending on the wheel, save you unsprung weight at each corner for all kinds of ride/handling/accel benefits.

    Not trying to deter you... in fact, if you can fab up good spacers cheap then you should consider selling sets to other NC owners! ;)
    CURRENT: black NC PRHT - mazdaspeed springs, RacingBeat sways, FM duals, lowered seat, accelerator pedal mod.
    EX (260K km of adventures): blue NB - FM suspension, momo steering, FD OEM shift knob, cold-side intake, RacingBeat exhaust.

  3. #3
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Guitarjon's Avatar
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    The main reason I thought about the 6mm ones is that I didn't want to go to the expense of extending studs etc. I don't want to loose the center bore. The guy who makes them is a forum member on mx5nutz.com. I'm sure he would make them for you guys but the postage would probably make them not so cheap anymore. Thanks for the incite into it though blackchicken. I don't think 6mm will make a noticable difference but in one way I don't want to go too big as I don't want rubbing issues. As the car is lowered the wheels don't look as tucked in any more.
    Previous car: NA 1990 classic red jrsc m45 with 150mm crank, intercooler, DIY pnp ms2, 340 cc injectors and lts of other mods including chassis bracing, roll bar, bc coilovers, RB exhaust.

    New car: 2.0 sport NC, sunlight silver, lowered, geo alignment,m
    Cosworth panel filter, r8 wiper mod, debadged rear with more to come.

  4. #4
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power atlnb's Avatar
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    I think 20-25mm will get the look you desire if you're keeping the wheels. Good looking NC

  5. #5
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    OP - well given your design constraints I would say that 6mm is better than nothing. It will improve the looks but will be very subtle. But, again, for low cost to machine a flat spacer and ensuring that sufficient thread engagement remains with stock studs, go for it!

    Be sure to use plenty of anti-seize on spacer surface, hub, wheel mating surface when installing them as flat spacers have been known to seize onto the hub or wheel if this is not done.
    CURRENT: black NC PRHT - mazdaspeed springs, RacingBeat sways, FM duals, lowered seat, accelerator pedal mod.
    EX (260K km of adventures): blue NB - FM suspension, momo steering, FD OEM shift knob, cold-side intake, RacingBeat exhaust.

  6. #6
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    you could always get this style spacer, wont add any stress to the studs and you be able to get as much poke as you wish. With spacers like this, safety really isnt that big of an issue, it is near equivalent to bolting on lower offset wheels.
    Quote Originally Posted by AnonymousOne
    Our Father, who art in autos. Hollowed be thy frame. Thy horsepower Come, Thy torque be fun, in imports as in domestics. Give us this day our daily fuel and forgive us our hooning as we forgive those that hoon against us. And lead us not into Rice, but deliver us from Chrome accents. For thine is the Cam, The Piston, and The Rod, Forever and ever (or until they break). Amen.

  7. #7
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Schain's Avatar
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    I always thought that 3mm spacers are the biggest to go without using extended studs. If I was in your shoes, I would put that money aside to save for something else that looks nice and is more functional (roll bar, 17x9 RPF1 wheels, Roadster Sport Race exhaust, etc).
    2005 Mazdaspeed MX-5 (black mica, current daily driver)
    1993 Mazda Miata C-Package (brilliant black, GF's daily driver)
    2007 Mazda MX-5 PRHT (brilliant black, sold)

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