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Thread: Road Star

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  1. #196
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    I would also get a pin/bolt through both pieces, just for peace of mind if the weld cracks at any point (although it looks really proper)

  2. #197
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    The upper mount for the GM unit is pretty similar to the Miata as well. The holes are about 1" wider and 0.5" closer to the steering wheel. I could fab an adapter of sorts like the build I was referencing, but it also seemed like I could swap over the Miata parts since the tubing was about the same size as well. I didn't need or want all the tilt hardware on the GM part either.

    The GM input tube unbolts from the motor unit exposing a 2 piece input shaft. The Miata column is sleeved so I had to cut it just above the part smaller tube ends.



    The GM upper shaft almost fit in the Miata tube. A little persuasion with a vice turned the oval back into a circle and the shaft was able to slip in


    After a couple of measurements I determined how much of the GM tube I needed to add. Sorry, I forgot to note it down.



    Then I welded the 2 pieces together. After checking the fit I realized I had a problem. My original plan was to use the GM upper and the measurements were based on that. However I ended up using the Miata upper and there was a 0.5" difference between them. My adapter was now 0.5" too short. So I cut out the weld and made the adjustment. Thankfully I used the full 1" available in the coupler so I had an extra 0.5" available.



    Ready for reassembly.

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  4. #198
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    I would also get a pin/bolt through both pieces, just for peace of mind if the weld cracks at any point (although it looks really proper)
    Definitely. After the final mock up to make sure the new adapter length was correct, I drilled and tapped it since I don't have any press fit pins.

    A couple of things I forgot to mention about using the Miata upper tube. That also allowed me to clock the motor to anywhere I wanted it. Using the GM tube I would have only 3 positions to choose from. I ended up putting it in about the 4 o'clock positon. It still slightly rubs against the HVAC housing box and peaks out from under the dash a tiny bit, but I thought fit the best. Also, the GM tube is slightly larger, maybe 1mm, but the bracket for the ignition cylinder and clock spring would have required some work to make it fit nicely with the larger tube. Now it bolts up like factory.

    The last pic above also shows the firewall mount cut down where it could fit nicely over the end of the shaft. Then I hit them with some satin black paint and reassembled it. Last thing was to swap over the ignition, stalks and clock spring.



    The bracket is held on by some tamper resistant screws that look kind of like rivets. They're screws though, so just cut a slot into them and drive them out. Transfer everything over to the proper place and voila, a hybrid Miata EPAS column.



    Installing it will probably be more work than building it It's pretty heavy with the motor and squirming around under the dash with the pedals in the way isn't going to be fun. Wiring is very simple though, so I'm almost ready to test it out.
    Last edited by druz; 09-21-2019 at 06:14 AM.

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  6. #199
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    An unexpected bonus, the GM steering input shaft is the same size and spline as the Miata as well so I can keep my Momo hub.

    Wiring is simple, just power and ground, and the controller plugs into the EPAS "ECU." The motor power is high current. The instructions recommend a 50 or 60A fuse. Mine came with the factory wiring which already had an 80A fuse inline. As such it needs direct power. Since I previously relocated my fuse box to the glovebox area, I connected it to the incoming +12v. The controller needs switched +12v so I used the unused radio wiring for that. Then I installed the adjuster knob in my switch plate. Looks just it did before with the stock steering.



    I haven't done a road test (more on that coming), but in the garage it works. The only unexpected thing is that it takes about 5 seconds for it to switch off after turning the knob down. Not a problem for me, but thought it would react a little quicker.

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  8. #200
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    Nice and tidy!

  9. #201
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    While waiting for some of the EPAS parts to arrive I started going over the car for tech inspection for the upcoming Miata Reunion at Laguna Seca. I noticed a large amount of grease coming from the inner CVs.



    This is not the first time I've noticed it. It can't find any damage to the boots but since it seems to be persisting, I'm going to assume that it's leaking out as it liquifies due to it's proximity to the exhaust. They've lost a good amount grease so I'm going to need to replace it. If my theory is correct, hopefully using a higher temp grease will help the issue.



    After removing the axles, the first step is cleaning out all the old grease. Here's the inside of a CV if you've never seen one.



    I had some Amsoil grease leftover from repacking my front wheel bearings, so might as well use that. If this stuff breaks down, them I'll have to look into making some kind of heatshields.

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  11. #202
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    I HATE that job. Old grease smells nasty.

  12. #203
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    After repacking the CVs, I was able to finish the steering project. Then I went back to reinstall the axles. Apparently sometime in between I pressed the brakes a few times, probably while trying to get the steering column in, and that resulted in the brake calipers not wanting to fit over the rotors without retracting the piston a bit. Unfortunately the right side wasn't cooperating.



    That would explain it. This little guy is the "hex screw" that many call it, which is turned to move the rear piston. The seals were looking about ready for a rebuild anyway, but I didn't really have time so I just ordered a refurbed one. That's why I couldn't get out to test the new steering on the road. Once the new caliper was in and bled, it was time for a test.

    Even at the lowest setting, it feels a bit over boosted, but maybe I'm too used to the manual feel by now. However I really only want to use it while parking or other similar low speed maneuvers and then switch it completely off. It does exactly what I want it too

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  14. #204
    Supporting Member druz's Avatar
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    While I had the car up doing the inspection, I took a couple of minutes to install the GV lip brake duct adapters I picked up earlier this year. I installed the Singular 2.5" ducts last year and was waiting for some proposed GV lip adapters to get produced.



    Then I came across these adapters since the others seemed to be on terminal hold. I gave them a shot and while not perfect, they look like they'll do the job of helping cool the big 11.75" Stoptechs.


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