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Thread: The Slow Pursuit of Vintage.

  1. #151
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Thought about installing the side stripes today, but other shit happened. Had to change the starter in my mother's Avalanche. The original final had enough after some 300k miles. Got it to kick over one more time, but then it flipped me off by sticking on, so I had to quickly disconnect the battery so it'd stop trying to eat the teeth on the flexplate.

    Once out it was a rattling mess, it'd make for a better rattle toy for a body building baby than a starter. Anyways, I'd just like to say fuck you to the guy that thought to put the dipstick tube in front of the starter. Otherwise, it was easy enough.

    But, I did manage to pull the front mudflaps off. Decided I'd go ahead and trim them down to limit how much they scrub.





    Too bad the paint underneath is garbage.





    Driver's side is far worse than the passenger. Which really, I admit the passenger side ain't too bad besides the outline the mudflap rubbed into the paint. But sadly the driver's fender has clear coat peeling below the body line. Really wish I knew why a previous owner had her partially repainted instead of just having her properly buffed and polished if the original single stage had faded.

    Once I get the stripes on, I'll see how she looks without the flaps again. Because she looks good without them in these pics.





    Can't even see the peeling clear coat unless you know it's there and you're looking right at it in person. Do love that about pictures, they hide so many flaws and most of the dirt. Well, I like that about pictures of my own cars, not so much cars and stuff for sale on CL.

    Started to sprinkle the moment after I took those last two pics. So, I rolled her back in and called it quits for now.

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  3. #152
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Jamie, I can only offer advice on the alignment. Go to a shop that knows the car and understands performance-oriented settings. It's worth the time and expense. So-called life time alignments are only good for the shop because when the alignment is out of spec, the car needs service which they will require to correct the alignment again ($$$).

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  5. #153
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I made a friend when I had my e30. He owned a few Midas franchises and did all my alignment work. He works out of one in Wilmington now. The Miatas I always had done through Performance Chassis in Cary.

    If you really want to dial it in, have it corner balanced and then aligned. Ideally, you want it done with you in the car, with about a 1/2 tank of fuel.

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  7. #154
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Got the side stripes on today.









    Now she looks juuust right.

    Never laid down any vinyl as long and large as the side stripes before. But I've applied several stickers, decals, and vinyl stuff over the years. So, it went pretty smoothly, better than I had anticipated.

    Still used Adam's write-up, as well as R2-Limited's write-up as guide lines. Thankfully, R2's was saved by the internet archive.

    The stripes are the ones sold by Garage Star, who I think took over/got permission/license to sell the R2-Limited designs.

    So, yeah, her exterior is more or less complete. Maybe some extended wheel studs and 10mm spacers for the wheels in the future, but I'm very satisfied with how Betty's exterior looks now. Of course, I'd still like to get my hands on Barchetta Clubman GT front bumper one day.

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  9. #155
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    I had put this off for way longer than I should have. It should have been done at the same time I installed the Nardi wheel.







    No more ripstop on the driver's seat belt. I used a BMW buckle stop button I found on ebay. Looks pretty factory to me. I used a small nail (one from a cheap shelv8 g unit used for nailing on the cardboard backing) heated up and held in a pair of vicegrips to properly melt the pin down. Really don't like the idea of using a couple of pennies to just brute force squash it flat. As for a source of heat, I used a small blue bottle of Bernz-O-matic propane. A cigarette lighter will not reach the temp. you need.

    In other news, I'll have something very pretty to post in a few days. Stay tuned!

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  11. #156
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Jamie what did you use to undue the ripstop stitching? I was thinking one of those sewing stitch knifes would work but from memory the blade might be to delicate. I too have put it off for far too long. (like nearly 3 yrs)
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  13. #157
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    ^^^ this! Didn't realize til I saw a post from Randy that it needed to be done. Any tips/ pics of how you did it would be appreciated.. hoping it can be done with the belts in the cars as I'm not too keen on removing the roll-bar to sort it out..

  14. #158
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Sorry guys, no pics from when I did this yesterday. Which, I should have, the thought crossed my mind.

    It's relatively easy to be honest, just time consuming (once you get into a groove it goes by a little quicker than you'd think). I used a Gerber EAB knife. It's basically just a razor blade with a folding handle. It easily has a sharp enough point to get under the stitching, and is easily sharp enough to cut the stitching. Plus, thanks to the handle you can get enough leverage to slice through the stitching.

    I would get the tip of the blade under the stitching then leverage the blade against the stitching. Repeat about 1,000 times. Once I had the stitching removed from the black cover, I slid it down out of the way (I opted to keep it, you can just cut it off completely if you want). You'll then see the ripstop stitching. On my tan belts the ripstop stitching was a gray/silver color. The ripstop section will unfold twice (I think) and you will see row after row of stitching. There's two width of rows, which are a single, solitary length of stitching. One set of rows goes nearly the full width of the belt and the other set of rows goes about 1/2 - 3/4 the width.

    I started nipping away at the shorter rows and worked up. Now, if you do it right, you'll be able to pull the stitching out as a single, very long piece. You will still have to cut each stitch though. I'd cut a few rows of stitching and then, from the other side, pull the stitching out. This would allow me to pull out the small pieces that would fray immediately after cutting them, which got in the way of seeing what I was doing. Basically, the ripstop stitching is a double stitch on top of itself. That might not be the right description and wording, I'm no expert on sewing methods. But I had to cut each stitch on one side, which allowed me to pull a very long, single piece of thread out from the other side/

    Here's a pic of the single, long piece of ripstop stitching/thread I pulled out.



    I assure you, it's much longer than it looks in that pic. Once stretched out, it's several feet.

    I found that the tricky part was holding the new button in place while then heating up the nail with the propane torch. You kind of have to work quickly to get the nail to the button to melt the pointed tip down before the nail cools.

    I used a pair of channel lock pliers with a zip-tie around the handle to hold the button in place, That would allow me to quickly grab the pliers once the nail had been heated til the head was red hot.

    Just plan things out and take your time, it'll be smooth sailing.

    P.S.

    A quick google search should bring up a video or two about how to melt the new button with a nail.

    P.S.S.

    And it should go without saying, but when you install the new button, be mindful of the buckle's location. It would totally suck to do a great job installing the new button only to discover the buckle is on the wrong side of it.

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  16. #159
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    OK, so now that that is out of the way, here's this post. Lots of pics ahead, basically an unboxing post. One might say, "ugh, booooring!" OK, yeah, I get it, but the source of the box makes up for it.

    Da box:



    Open:



    Deeper in:



    Even deeper:



    Contents all laid out:



    Yesh, lots of goodies from Adam at Revlimiter. I want to say up front, the man will not disappoint in his packing care and attention to detail. This will not be the only praise he receives in this post. Matter of fact, I have nothing but positives to say about Adam and everything he does from first contact to delivered product. Let's continue.

    Full contents with some bubble-wrap and bagging out of the way:



    First up, Retro Window Switch black plate and flush mount bracket:



    I had planned to order a whole new switch, but after telling Adam I already had his original design he offered to sell me just the plate and bracket at a reduced cost. I had no idea he could/would do that. This is a good example why you might want to first contact Adam before simply placing an order without communicating with him. He might just surprise you with something!

    A couple of Revlimiter keychains:







    These were each in their own little drawstring bag, wrapped in bubble-wrap, in a little ziplock bag, sandwiched between a piece of paper. Just getting to open them was a treat. For now these will remain unused and mint. I've been rocking an old R2 Limited keychain for a few years now and it has the right amount of patina from daily use. Also, they look better in person, those pics do not do them justice. The one thing I will say about them is that they are smaller and lighter than anticipated. Which is not a bad thing. If anything, it's a testament to Adam's ability to get such crisp and sharp detail on them. I should probably take a pic of Adam's keychains next to my old R2 Limited keychain. Something to do later.

    Revlimiter nose badge:









    Again, great packaging. A fancy little silver drawstring bag, bubble-wrap, ziplock bag and sandwiched between a piece of paper. This was a bit difficult to get good pictures of. Doesn't help I'm just using my phone for these pics and I have a black table as a backdrop. I can already tell though that it's going to look fricken amazing in the sunlight. Looking forward to getting this on Betty soon.

    Instructions, decals, business cards, and bonuses:





    Neatly packed in a ziplock bag. The instructions/tips are clear with helpful pictures. Also in this bag was a couple of prying tools, pair of gloves, and needle stops. Oh, there was also a piece of green apple Hi-Chew sent, I just didn't notice I failed to include it in the pics until after I was done. Which reminds me, I need to order some off Amazon. I can't keep getting my fix for Hi-Chew by buying parts from select Miata venders, just not economically feasible. Anyways, as you can see, there was also a Hot Wheels car included, and if you have ordered something from Adam before you may have received one too. If you didn't know, he's a Hot Wheels collector too and has a habit of tossing one in. I like to think he's just being an awesome and friendly guy that might get others into the hobby by slipping one in as a bonus.

    Door sill inserts:





    Wrapped in a piece of cardboard, in a ziplock bag. I've been slowly working on removing the Mazda Miata badges from Betty and replacing them with Eunos Roadster badges. My door sills came from a '95 M, so they have the "M Edition" script on them. But even if I had got a pair that originally came fro ma JDM car, I would still have ordered these. That extra attention to detail of the resin bubble is all it takes to make them really stand out.

    Retro HVAC plate with Machined Ring:



    This was in a flip lid cardboard box with another item. Which you will see directly after this. This will add another layer of detail to what this order was focused around.

    Garage Woolery Garage Vary Trim Rings:



    As stated above, these were in the same fliplid box as the Retro HVAC panel w/ Machined Ring. As you can see they are wrapped in a few layers of buble-wrap. When these were first made and offered by Woolery, I figured the chances of me getting my hands on a set were slim to none. But when Adam announced he would be carrying them in his shop, I knew the chances were much, much better. Again, looking forward to getting these on Betty soon.

    Revlimiter Gauges and HVAC panel:











    I have no doubt Adam knows exactly what he is doing by packing these in a jewelry like box. His Gauges are the focal point of his shop if you ask me. It's what he is known for the most in the overreaching Miata community. Just seeing that box and knowing what's inside feels special. Like everything else, this box was packed with care and thought. At the bottom is the same cotton like material you find in jewelry boxes, then the bag containing the gauges, then a soft, folded cloth that looks to be a microfiber duster, then on the top the bag containing HVAC panel.

    Now, you might be asking where the hell are the pictures of the new gauge faces and HVAC panel? Well, you won't see those until I have them installed unless Adam has pics of them he chooses to post himself. What I went with is, in my opinion, a few simple changes to the Jazz version of the Stirling gauges that helps to increase that retro vibe the Stirlings already have. Being that the changes made were simple, I wouldn't be surprised if Adam just went ahead and packed them once they were done drying after printing.

    I can only try to say how nice it is to do business with Adam. He has an attention to detail, passion, and care that isn't rivaled by many in the Miata community. His strive for perfection and customer satisfaction is above and beyond what you are likely to experience with most other people. He is, without a doubt, one of the good ones. No one should ever worry if his prices are fair or if they are going to be treated well. Adam delivers without question.

    Now, y'all might be wanting to see what the gauges look like, I get it, but it'll be a few days (maybe a week) before I get them installed. Just gotta get my hands on the real oil pressure gauge that is still sitting in a friend's parts car. And I assure you, no one wants to see what these look like installed more than I do.

    So, I apologize for being a tease and giving anyone a case of blue balls. But, that's all I've got for now..... well, I did also get nice little MAZDA banner for the garage off ebay.



    OK, NOW, that's it, that's all I've got... for now.

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  18. #160
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Took abit longer than a week to get these installed. No excuse, just dragging ass on them. And I'll have to take some better pics with an actual camera tomorrow.

    So, I got the OK to temporarily swap out the oil pressure sending unit from a friend's NA while he has it stored at my place. I had got a free "real" oil pressure gauge and sending unit from another friend and recently got both of them in Betty. But then it looked like she had really, REALLY low oil pressure. I'm talking just off the peg once warm. That's no bueno. So after cleaning the terminal contacts and that doing nothing, the next step was to try another sending unit. So I got to work doing that this morning. And bingo, bango, bongo I don't wanna leave the congo, that did the trick! She now shows just under 30 once warm, so yay!

    After that success, I thought I'd tackle the Revlimiter gauges.

    What I went with was a set of Jazz Stirlings with a few minor mods. The top of which being the font, which is the font from the Rocketeer movie, called Aeronaut. After that, I choose to keep the stock 8k RPM max, have the redline start at 6,500, and clear/white lighting with stock bulbs. Like I said, minor stuff, but it made the Sterlings look exactly as I wanted them. The font was also used on the HVAC overlay. I absolutely love the Rocketeer comic, and the font used for the movie is great, it really has a lovely Art Deco style about it that looks perfectly vintage.

    Now that you have that bit of info, lets got to work. (or you can just skip all this and scroll to the bottom... you're going to scroll to the bottom aren't you?)

    Starting point:



    Having taken this bit of a Miata apart a few times, it went by quickly. I also decided to pull the wheel off to take care of a little rubbing noise when turning the wheel.



    I used some electrical tape to strap the airbag and horn connectors to the hub. Ended up working perfectly.

    Gotta stay organized while working:



    So, cluster in the house, on the operating table and already down to the needles removed:



    Stock gauge faces off:



    The bit of plastic that needs removing for complete light illumination for a 6 o'clock 0 rotation:





    I may not have had to remove as much as I did, but I wanted it to look as clean as possible. Also, this is the part I think most people are worried about doing, I was. But once you get in there and start clipping/picking/cutting away at it, it's pretty easy. The plastic is sort of soft yet brittle. I also used a razor blade to clean some of the cut lines up.

    After that, I got to putting the new gauge faces on. Once that was done I temporarily slapped them in the car to set the needles. Which is a bit of a finicky process. Especially the tach. From what I found the stock tach is kind of garbage. Set the needle to be accurate at idle and that'll be the only place it's accurate. It just ends up reading higher and higher the higher the revs. For example, when the tach reads 2K, the ECU says it's actually 1,800 through the use of an OBD2 reader. And then at the limiter, tach reads 7,400 but the ECU says nope, only 6,950.

    Anyways, I followed Adam's instructions via his website. I soon had all the needles set and the cluster back out of hte car and back on the table to reassemble it.



    Then it was back out to the car to slap it all back together.









    Mmmhmm, now that looks fan-fabulously-tastic!

    But wait! There's more!

    Next up was the HVAC overlay and panel.

    Starting point:



    End result:







    Yeah, lots of stuff I didn't take pics of there, but it's all simple stuff you just need a screwdriver and your hands for (except for those eyeball vents, which, do yourself a favor and smooth down the notches that hold them in place a little once you have them out the 1st time).

    I also changed the illumination on my radio to match the new gauges and HVAC. Which is easy for me to do since it's illumination is completely customizable. Might not look right in the pics, but to the naked eye it's as close as I can get it.

    Yeaaaah... I need to take some decent pics with an actual camera tomorrow... or ASAP.

    To say I'm happy with the end result is an understatement. Only thing I'm still not sure about is red/orange needles. But I'll contemplate on that for a while and go from there on that. Otherwise, I wouldn't change a thing. I had to take a quick and careful drive to go get some double sided tape while I had the tombstone and center console sprawled out across the passenger seat and floor. While doing so it gave me a chance to get acquainted to the new rotation of the tach and speedo. Nothing to note about the tach really, but the speedo? I found myself speeding a bit more than usual, having top back my speed down. So it may take a little while to get used to 40-60mph coming up sooner/quicker/lower on the gauge.

    So yeah, another thoroughly pleased Revlimiter customer. Go get you some of Adam's gauges, they're worth every penny, and they really won't cost ya that many pennies.

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  20. #161
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    Looks good Jamie. I gotta get back out there again for a meet.

  21. #162
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Fishbulb's Avatar
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    Looks killer!

    Glad to see that my car is not the only one that the gauge hood covers the bottom text on the KG Works panel!

    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post

    Then it was back out to the car to slap it all back together.

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  23. #163
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishbulb View Post
    Looks killer!

    Glad to see that my car is not the only one that the gauge hood covers the bottom text on the KG Works panel!
    Mines actually the earlier RS Products meter panel, which is an almost dead ringer for the KG Works panel. From what I've seen and read the key difference are the indicators for the ABS and Washer level. They're red (like the rest of the center indicators) on the RS Products panel and yellow/amber on the KG Works panel. Otherwise I don't think there's any difference between the two.

    I think the text being covered on the gauge hood is just down to the production tolerances of the meter panels. Then again, it could also be from dash sag? I know my dash is cracked behind the gauge cluster and that likely has something to do with it.

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  25. #164
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishbulb View Post
    Glad to see that my car is not the only one that the gauge hood covers the bottom text on the KG Works panel!
    Me too! It's something I've been trying to figure out what I'd done wrong ever since I put it in.

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  27. #165
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Got some better pictures of the gauges and HVAC panel yesterday with my Canon point and shoot camera. Just day pics, no good night pics yet, might take some later tonight.

















    I've made a few orders for a few things and some of it has come in.



    Better brakes have been on the list for a while. The stock brakes are mostly fine, but I have been wanting better pads with a bit more bite. I decided to try out G-Loc's GS-1 pads with some new Centric Premium rotors. Ordered the pads through 949 while I got very lucky and found the rotors on Amazon. So not only did I save a few bucks on the rotors themselves, free Prime shipping! I also order a complete set of control arm bushings directly from I.L. Motorsport along with their interior lighting kit in tan (the lights for the sides of the center of the dash). While I was at it I bought the FM pinch weld jack tool. I have to admit, for what it is, what it's made of, and how well it works, it's hard to beat.

    Oh, and the RockAuto box is for something else. Just a maintenance issue with a family vehicle. Nothing interesting, just a power steering line for a '99 Chevy truck.

    While I was in Goldsboro yesterday my friend Zach surprised me with a little something. Come to find out, while he was out of town for something or another, I forget, he made a side trip to grab a Hard Dog hidden hitch we had seen listed on craigslist. While I was at it, I bought the new MSM swaybar he picked up on a different side trip, which I was with him for. The swaybar will likely go on tomorrow, but I went ahead and climbed under Betty and installed the hitch.





    And with the receiver removed:



    So, why did I get the hitch? Because I like the idea of being able to haul a bit more stuff on trips (just need to find the right cargo carrier (something smaller and sorta light)). That I would like to eventually maybe still get some other wheels with some sticky goo-goo rubber and a way to haul them. Plus, it also acts as a bit of increased chassis rigidity.

    The neat thing about this one is that the previous owner made it so a threaded rod/bolt with nuts are used to attach the receiver and drawbar. Looks as if a threaded tube was welded in so the bolts thread into the hitch and receiver themselves. And if I find I don't like that, I can just drill the threads out later.

    Like I said, hope to install the MSM rear swaybar tomorrow. I'm also waiting on 1 rear rotor that should show up tomorrow so I can go ahead and get the new brakes in.

    2 weeks til M@TG.

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