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Thread: The Slow Pursuit of Vintage.

  1. #166
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    The best bonus on the Hard Dog rear hitch is it is the rear frame connector. They flat mount it. Most of the after-market side mount them. You just linked your tail together! If you need anything from Hard Dog, and want to work up a meet and greet, they are just up the street from me. Peace my local nut! Wilbur's will be involved!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
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  3. #167
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Picked up a pair of V Special mats through Alex, aka, Scratch'N'Sniff.







    Gave the plate tags a quick polish for the time being. Plan to go back and paint the lettering black for that extra bit of detail. I'm starting to really like the contrast they provide.




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  5. #168
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Fishbulb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post
    Mines actually the earlier RS Products meter panel, which is an almost dead ringer for the KG Works panel. From what I've seen and read the key difference are the indicators for the ABS and Washer level. They're red (like the rest of the center indicators) on the RS Products panel and yellow/amber on the KG Works panel. Otherwise I don't think there's any difference between the two.

    I think the text being covered on the gauge hood is just down to the production tolerances of the meter panels. Then again, it could also be from dash sag? I know my dash is cracked behind the gauge cluster and that likely has something to do with it.
    Great info! Thank you!

    Below is mine, Amber markers. Which, I had to block off from the back, mine is a 90 with no lights there, and plastic dividers to block the bleed over light.

    AS for the crack/sag, I repaired mine with a thin sheet of aluminium expoyed in there. Still have to write that one up!


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  7. #169
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Still haven't done the brakes, it's just so hot. I say that, but then I struggled for way longer than I had anticipated installing the I.L. Motorsport footwell lights, FML. Mostly because it was just a complete and utter bitch tapping into the wires of the recommended connector. And it's complete bullshit that disconnecting said connector will "allow it to hang down and give you better access."

    So, after climbing under the dash and back out more times than I can remember I had the lights working, hurray! But then I check their function. Fuck me. No workie with the overhead switch. Which, of course they aren't going to work with it, they aren't tied into it. But that kind of thing doesn't cross your mind when frustration piles on from working in a cramped position in 90+ something or another heat. And I wasn't going to leave them only working with the door switches. I've always liked being able to turn the interior light off if I'm going to have my door open for an extended period of time... like when I'm working on something in the interior. And I swear it only takes that little overhead light 10 seconds to get hotter than stove top burner that's been on for an hour. I'm exaggerating, but still. Also, it would be handy to be able to turn them on for whatever reason while rolling down the road.

    Sooo... I redid the wiring for the ground. Disassembled what was needed to run a wire up to the switch (had some black wire in the old kitchen tool drawer) and used the extra ground wire included in the kit to make the connection. Used the screw that holds the switch plate and button together to connect the ground to the switch. Which I checked Revlimter's write up for extra interior lights which showed how Adam used that same point to connect to the switch.

    After getting the wire in and temporarily jamming the wire ends into the spade terminals on each end to make sure the new lights were working how I wanted them, I had to run to Wal-Mart (nothing else was open, sadkly) to grab some spade terminals. I thought I had some laying around somewhere, but apparently not. But watch, I'll find the ones I thought I had a month from now or something. To make a long story shorter, everything worked like I wanted and now I have footwell lighting.



    To the naked eye the tan matches.



    But under a camera flash, not so much.



    Also made a quick video showing full function.



    I've also read that the I.L. Motorsport kit is the same as a few other kits. They all use the same Mercedes light housings, and they also used stock blanking plates with holes cut into them (and sometimes painted). I say used because the pieces that came with the kit are obviously new molds (and molded in a matching-ish color). Oh, and the instructions that came with them? Pretty clear the English translation is a little rough, and figure were a bit difficult to read clearly. Ended up finding some better detailed instructions online.

    But the lights work great and will be easy to replace bulbs on whenever they burn out.

    Oh, I also ordered some control arm bushings with my new lights.



    I mention I ordered them directly from I.L. Motorsport? Plus, they were in stock and cheaper than every where else, on, and the damn shipping on them was cheaper than any where else too. Really, the shipping costs of some Miata vendors has turned me away from them on more than just this occasion. At this point it's mighty hard to convince me why some of them are so high considering I just had parts shipped all the way from Germany for less than what it would cost to have the same parts shipped from within the US. And sure, the invoice and shipping notice emails were in German, but google translate gets the job done well enough for me to understand what's mostly being said. I wouldn't call a 3 second google search an inconvenience.

    On a different note, I slapped on a cheap Vato Zone license plate cover with some security hardware. Well, I say cheap, but I know I likely overpaid for the stuff since I could've got something for less off Amazon. But I wanted to grab something before next weekend and didn't want to chance having stuff shipped. Knowing my luck it'd be the one time the Prime 2-day shipping was late. Also, yeah, how secure can security hardware bought from a major parts store chain really be? Eh, gotta be better than phillips/standard screws





    Kinda hard to see in the pics, but there's a slight tint to the cover. I know it might be an issue, but at worst it's an easy fix-it ticket. But yeah, after a friend commented how the plate was just too much white/brightness on the back of my car, how it draws the eye to it, I thought I'd try a tinted plate cover. I like that it has a more finished look than just a bare plate. But, I thik I might get some black hardware later.

    Now, hopefully... HOPEFULLY... I'll get the brakes done tomorrow. But, 3rd season of BoJack Horseman came out, and it's hella hot. Also, if I manage to not forget to take pictures next weekend, I should have some great potato pictures to share from M@TG.

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  9. #170
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Installed the new brakes last night/this morning. Centric Premium rotors with G-Loc GS-1 pads.











    Most difficult thing was breaking the old rotors free of the rust. After that, it all went smoothly Regreased the sliders while I was at it too.

    I Called G-Loc to ask about the bedding procedure. Fellow on the phone told me that I just need to drive the car like normal and not to beat on them. So, I'm going to take it easy on them til this weekend.

    I'm also borrowing some 5mm wheels spacers to see how spacing the wheels out just a tiny bit looks.

    I also I had a new 25th Roadster Anni. sticker made up. My old one was falling apart, so I had the guys I know at the local sign shop make one up. They actually made a couple extra at no charge too. The new sticker is black with silver.



    A little earlier today I checked all the alignment bolts. One had come loose. I made sure to tighten all of them just to be safe. I'll worry about the alignment once I install the new control arm bushings. I used some old Testers enamel to mark the bolts positions. At least I'll be able to keep an eye on them that way.

    Besides getting packed, I'm ready for this weekend.
    Last edited by JamieH; 07-26-2016 at 03:22 PM.

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  11. #171
    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    Looking FANTASTIC!!!

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  13. #172
    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishbulb View Post
    Looks killer!

    Glad to see that my car is not the only one that the gauge hood covers the bottom text on the KG Works panel!
    They all do that unless you shim the gauge cluster a bit.



    You can put something between the dash and the cluster at the far outside bottom edges of the cluster. Somewhere around those two white edges just under the signal stalks at the outside bottom of the above pic. I use a bit of fuel hose sliced to be just a flat piece of rubber. No rattles and decent strength.

    The shims will force the cluster up. The bottom retainer post (seen just inside the left signal stalk arm) will still work, but the cluster will butt up against the top of it instead of the bottom.

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  15. #173
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    MATG was fantastic! Managed to take lots of decent pics of Betty.





































    Was also able to make killboy's weekly highlights again!



    While I'm at it, here's a few scenery pics.












    To cap this off, today I decided to take out the Garage Star delrin door bushings and reinstall the stock rubber bushings. Not to say the GS delrin bushings don't do exactly what they say they do, they work fantastically at giving the doors a more solid connection to the rest of the car when closed. But they do require more force to close them all the way, and it does get tiring on a daily basis.

    While I was as it, I removed the door bushing cups to hammer the openings in a little to try to get a similar effect from the old, stock rubber door bushings. Think I'll look into getting new OEM bushings. And I know they still make them since Mazda hasn't changed them at all, the ND uses the exact same door bushings as the NA.

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  17. #174
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    I made a small mention of this on the forum else where. So, if you run a Miata hard enough, long enough, it can spit fire. Conditions are a 180k '97 with a '96 ECU (I think this is a big part of it), DDM Works intake, Roadster Sport 3 CAT-back exhaust, and the rear O2 sensor spaced partially out of the exhaust stream with a modified sprakplug anti-fouler. All other engine related mechanicals are stock. Reason for why I think the ECU is a big part of it is that after installing the '96 ECU (to alleviate a logic fault in the '97 ECU causing a false misfire code to trigger at partial throttle in the upper RPM band), I started to notice more popping coming from the exhaust on decel. So, I can only guess that the '96 ECUs have less fuel cut on the decel.

    First lil' lick of fire pops out at 7:46. She does it 7 more times over the next 2 and a half minutes from there. Oh, and besides the single truck we came up on, that was the only traffic that held us up on the way to the overlook. So it was a very enjoyable run.


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  19. #175
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Jamie,
    That was awesome to watch. What a blast that must have been!
    When I run my Audi through Hocking Hills, Ohio I get so geeked on adrenalin.

    I haven't done that since last fall and have just been driving in flat SE Michigan.
    So I started thinking I need a Miata V8 to enjoy driving around here.
    Maybe I need to re-think that after watching your video and focus on road handling and live with 140~200hp.

    BTW, flames out the exhaust may not be a big deal as it is only when you are de-accelerating. I know my old carbureted cars did that. I am not familiar with Mazda engines yet, but I would check if the "throttle closed" switch is being made and if it is functioning. When the throttle is closed and the engine is above a certain RPM the fuel to the injectors should be turned off by the computer.
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 08-16-2016 at 11:54 AM.

  20. #176
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Far as I know, the TPS is not faulty as my car runs as it should at idle, cruise, and WOT. Idle increase for A/C is fine too. Like I said, I'm guessing it's in the '96 ECU having less fuel cut on decel.

    And sure, even though it only does it on decel, thus, it ain't THAT big of a deal... it still makes me giggle like a child. But really, it sort of is a big deal since it's rare for basically stock fuel injected cars/engines to do so (besides silly rotaries that is, I mean, those waste fuel (and oil) by design and will toss fire just by getting rid of the CAT).

    So, maybe (maaaaybe) my CAT ain't doing much of anything? But eh, unless I start noticing a serious amount of loss performance and economy, I'm not going to worry about it.

  21. #177
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Almost gave you a shout yesterday. But I knew that the full-pull to Kinston would have pushed my timeline into mode. So I settled for SCNB rather than hitting up Wilbur's.

    Like the flames. Less fuel cut and muffler packing storing said extra fuel is my guess. Unless you stuck one of the propane kits in the tails like the James Dean days.

    (hobbles of in his walker to another post)
    Thanks for the vid.,
    Rick
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
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  23. #178
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Great video.. that really looks like it must have been an exhilarating drive!

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  25. #179
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    After seeing Adam put his bikini on, I got the itch to put mine on.









    Also, I think Betty wears it much better now. Her original ride height was sorta throwing it off. I think the last time she wore it was at Deal's Gap during MATG in 2014. I too have the EZ install brace, it is an absolutely lovely piece.

    I'll say this, if ya decided to get and use a bikini top and you have rollbar padding, cut a piece of tube (same material used for the center brace) about 1 1/2"-2" tall and 8"-10" long. Without such a piece the center brace will compress and dig into the padding. It'll also make it much easier to slip the center brace into position. It will not move once it has the pressure of the center brace on it.

    So, yeah, looking forward to running the bikini for a few days. Checked the weather and it should be dry and less than satan's asshole hot.

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  27. #180
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Been a few months, been slowly doing a lot of boring maintenance stuff. Still not done, little things keep hanging me up or I ended up doing more than planned.

    What all have I had on the agenda you may ask? Here's the list.

    Timing belt & water pump
    Front main & cam seals
    CAS O-ring
    Accessory belts
    Bypass & heater hoses
    Oil change
    Coolant flush
    I.L. Motorsport control arm bushings
    NB front subframe
    NB power steering rack
    NA power steering cooler line
    Black wrinkle paint cam cover w/ polished lettering

    I would likely have been done already had I gotten started sooner. But I put it off until I had repaired my shop's compressor. And being that she's not my only mode of transport and it's been winter, yadda, yadda, yadda, excuses, excuses.

    I had planned to try to put the T-belt & WP off until 200k thinking if the belt did let go, meh, non-interference. But then I started to notice a water puddle under Betty, and that's no bueno. So I parked her in the shop.

    Anyways, lets get to some pictures.



    Once on the lift the rad & hoses and the power steering pump & reservoir came out.





    Which left me with this.



    Then off came the plug wires, plugs, and cam cover.



    And I would then find this.



    And once I had the crank pulley and all the timing covers off, I'd find this.



    Looks like the crank reluctor wheel has been rubbing on something.



    Oh yeah, that'd do it.



    What a filthy mess. And that was after the 1st round of cleaning. Her front main seal has been leaking for quite a long while to be honest. a few years actually. But it wasn't bad enough to cause worry, just enough to require a clean up/wipe down at every oil change.

    Speaking of cleaning, here's what the NB front subframe I picked up looked like after the first round of cleaning.



    Which I got from fellow MR member Tony, aka Demon I Am, last year. Seemingly many moons ago. He can attest to how dirty it was when I got it from him. I'd have a pic to show y'all, but I guess I didn't take one the whole time I had it sitting in my shop. But it was nasty enough that I wrapped it in plastic before putting it in my truck's bed.

    Once I had the engine timed and locked in place, I left it there for a bit as I wanted to just zip off the main crank bolt with my impact but had still not gotten the shop's compressor fixed at the time.





    And that's where I'll leave this tonight. I'll post some of the good stuff tomorrow. And also show a little of how every step of the way I'd end up doing a little bit of extra work as I went along.

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