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Thread: Help with Oil

  1. #1
    Idling - Listen to it purr... cabbageroll's Avatar
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    Help with Oil

    Hey guys, need some advice or tips on my oil change in a week or 2. I notice the previous owner is still using 5w20 from 7k miles to 162k miles. I also notice at cold start if I try to move the car, its much harder to get the car running smoothly without choking(Fine after you take it to temperature or run it for a few minutes). Car is fine if I start at noon with warm temperature or let it sit for 10 minutes in the morning. The guys probably been getting oil change at sears since I can see the last oil change done. My choice is Mobil 1 10W-30 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I have also saw some post about rotella t6. Anything will help. 2001 with 164k miles. Thanks for reading!

  2. #2
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BoBo's Avatar
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    Mobil 1 15k extended is good, I would go with a recommended oil weight from the factory. Your issue might not be oil related,maybe cold start enrichment, you probably need a new coolant temperature sensor or Check your coolant level and make sure it's not low because the sensor will send false info to the computer. Usually a bad coolant temperature sensor will cause your engine to run rough when it's cold and then smooth when warmed up. It could be other things, but check the coolant temp sensor first, it will most likely be the culprit. If not, check if your MAF or TB if it's dirty. Hope that helps.
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  3. #3
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift theothersawyer's Avatar
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    Rotella T 15w-40 with a Puralator PL14612 filter is what I always use!

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! riefdaddy's Avatar
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    X2 on the Rotella and Puralator Gold filter. The Rotella has stronger detergents than other oils and helps keep the lifter ticks down. I haven't heard my lifters in a year.

  5. #5
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    cabbageroll, where do you live? And what are the current temperatures when you are experiencing these issues?

    I live in New England, so I run 5W 30 in the cooler months, and 10w30 in the summer. Full synthetic, and I find that I have to add about a quart between every oil change (123,000 miles on my car). To be safe, I would stick to the oil weight in your car's owner's manual.

    Personally, I'm not sure that engine oil would cause the problems you describe. Temp sensor, Oxygen sensor, timing. Can you take it to an auto parts store and have them scan for codes? This might help. Good luck.

  6. #6
    Idling - Listen to it purr... cabbageroll's Avatar
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    @WASABI In California, the temperature in the morning doesn't even get cold enough. I'll definitely check the users manual.

    Just looked in manual and it doesn't really give any specific oil but just tells you to base it on the temperature and the weather you are currently driving in. I will probably end up with 10w30 since its about to hit summer with over 100 degrees F.
    Last edited by cabbageroll; 03-17-2014 at 03:17 PM.

  7. #7
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    10w 30 sound right. Let us know how it goes.

  8. #8
    Idling - Listen to it purr... cabbageroll's Avatar
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    As stated by my original post. The previous owner have been using conventional oil for 150k + miles. Changing to full/synthetic high milage oil, is this a good idea? I talked to the guy from sears auto and his advice was to keep going with the conventional. Anyone know how it will go if I do change it over?

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    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    If you use synthetic this late in the mileage it will most likely sneak past your seals. I would stick with the conventional oil.

  10. #10
    Idling - Listen to it purr... cabbageroll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phatmiata View Post
    If you use synthetic this late in the mileage it will most likely sneak past your seals. I would stick with the conventional oil.
    That sounds about right but I just need to make sure. Thanks, I just needed someone else to think for me!

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