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  1. #61
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slampen View Post
    Even the insulation behind the ecu was wet.
    Sorry to hear about your misfortune. But your experience is not wholly uncommon. It happens sometimes. Fortunately, your car appears to be in good shape with no rust to begin with. Pulling the carpets and seats and letting everything dry out should solve the problem. Fans and/or a bucket full of desiccant material (either silica gel or calcium chloride like DampRid) should help also. I recently replaced that non-woven insulation under the ECU with a thick rubber sheet cut to size for exactly this reason. I didn't want something that could trap moisture and promote mold growth or corrosion.

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  3. #62
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    The car has it share of rust, its not just in these pictures.
    Got some not so healthy jack points, and the car have had a couple of rust fix jobs.


    The old carpet was torn beneath the pedals so I had a used one laying around. And while I have the console out I will mount the short shift kit. Ordered the last parts from Mazda.
    Guess I will mount these Lotus chairs as well. Its about time. Guess its like fifty year since I bought them.



    \\Stian.

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  5. #63
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Self inflicted mistakes are the worse! Glad there was only minimal and easily fixable 'damage'. Look forward to seeing the short throw shifter and Lotus seats installed, keep up the good work Stian!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
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  7. #64
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Looking forward to it as well. Also to get the Meisterrs on...

    Thank you Rick.

  8. #65
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I feel you on the wet insulation. I used duct/HVAC insulation for homes there. Found it at the local home improvement store.


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  10. #66
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    Guess the aluminum coloured side is for heat insulation, or does it help extra on sound damping as well?

    I bought a roll with 8mm sound insulation for cars and was thinking of using it, unless there are something else that are much better.

    I think oem insulation is 6mm.

    The roll with insulation I was going to use is the roll laying up on the carpet on the picture below, if you can see it all the mess.


    \\Stian

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  12. #67
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Similar felt material to what's already under the OEM carpet, right Stian? It is decent, but you have to throw it away once it gets wet.

  13. #68
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Thats correct. Similar as oem just 2mm thicker.
    Plan is to remove all oem from the carped and glue the new to the carpet.

    Wet? Not planned getting it wet again.


    \\Stian

  14. #69
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I don't know if it is quieter than OE because I did so much to quiet the interior and added heat shielding under the car. I think it's more comfortable, though. I know it was inexpensive and easy to cut to length. When I flooded the passenger side because I forgot to connect the A?C drain line, I just removed the wet stuff, cleaned the floor, sprayed some bathroom anti-mold cleaner in there and laid in new pieces from the extra I had. I didn't glue it to the carpet. The other nice effect was removing that old insulation eliminated a certain smell from the car.

    I also used aluminum tape to connect the new insultaion together. The new stuff around the tunnel is taped there to hold it down.

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  16. #70
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Found a pic in my build thread. I suppose the insulation could be mounted in reverse, but this allowed me to tape the sections together.

    http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment....4&d=1443056235

    The insulation was about $15-20 per roll and I used about 1.75 rolls. I don't know how many that potatoes that equates to in your country. ;)

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  18. #71
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    vAHwDjP.jpg

    How it was left 01:30 today.

    MeisterR crd+ and Brossfrog roll bar mountet.
    As you can see there are some cutting left.

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  20. #72
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Did some driving on the car last weekend.
    Saturday I spent on this track
    KopiavMotorsportsenter006-1.jpg
    Love the track. Small and perfect for our cars. We drove the outer circle counter clockwise

    The car understeers and I know the wheel alignment are way off. The MeisterR's are on the height they had out of the box. I should get the wheel alignment fixed, also I see that I should adjust the dampers to fix the understeering. Forgot that when I enjoyed the track.
    The car is wigggling its tail under hard breaking. Guess that is because the car has non-functional ABS brakes, and the ABS brakes comes with more braking power on the rear than non-abs cars, afaik.
    The Lotus seats are way to high. The bracket did fasten them good, they do not run anywhere. But I'm higher in the Lotus seat than the oem seat.
    The steering wheel are way to big, I need to get a smaller one.
    It uses oil when I use engine break, a lot. Managed to almost empty the stick in a 2 hours drive.

    Most positive surprise Federal 595 RS-R 205/50-15 on 8" 6UL. They did perform good. I find them good value for money.
    Last edited by Slampen; 06-28-2017 at 02:52 AM.

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  22. #73
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    I may have missed this but what brackets are you using with your Lotus seats?

  23. #74
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Dont think I have mentioned which brackets I use.

    I use these => http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=93559

    A head up, seller is online like 1-2 times a week.

  24. #75
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slampen View Post
    Did some driving on the car last weekend.
    Saturday I spent on this track
    KopiavMotorsportsenter006-1.jpg
    Love the track. Small and perfect for our cars. We drove the outer circle counter clockwise

    The car understeers and I know the wheel alignment are way off. The MeisterR's are on the height they had out of the box. I should get the wheel alignment fixed, also I see that I should adjust the dampers to fix the understeering. Forgot that when I enjoyed the track.
    The car is wigggling its tail under hard breaking. Guess that is because the car has non-functional ABS brakes, and the ABS brakes comes with more braking power on the rear than non-abs cars, afaik.
    The Lotus seats are way to high. The bracket did fasten them good, they do not run anywhere. But I'm higher in the Lotus seat than the oem seat.
    The steering wheel are way to big, I need to get a smaller one.
    It uses oil when I use engine break, a lot. Managed to almost empty the stick in a 2 hours drive.

    Most positive surprise Federal 595 RS-R 205/50-15 on 8" 6UL. They did perform good. I find them good value for money.

    I would suspect the ABS not operating would explain the braking issue, too.

    The understeering, could be a few things, take a few moments to get the corners at the heights that are legal/preferred, get the alignment.

    The seats, yeah, I experienced the Lotus seats were marginally lower than stock. Unless you have some way to modify the brackets to get them lower, a secondhand race seat may be helpful to get you lower at the track. My steering wheel is about 25mm smaller radius than stock. If you have to keep the airbag, getting lower or moving the wheel forward may help. cardboard mockups can help you figure which way works best.

    If you are using oil under engine braking (high vacuum), that *usually* means the valve guides and/or valve stem seals. A leak-down test manifold will help you determine where the engine is losing oil. If you have a timing belt planned in the future, and you determine that the oil is getting pulled in through the valves, that would be a good time to pull the head, and either have it serviced or rebuild it yourself. Not terribly complicated, but a machine shop will likely need to do the valve guides. They could also clean and test the head for warp, cracks, and deck the mating surface a little (.254mm is standard).

    Honestly, if you can do the timing belt/waterpump, removing the head isn't that much more complicated. There are a couple of of special tools needed, such as a valve spring compressor and micrometers, but it just takes organization and a decent, well-illuminated work table to disassemble/reassemble the head.

    Glad to see you got it on the track and enjoyed yourself!

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