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Thread: the SlampMobile

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  1. #76
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    The issue with Lotus seats is the location of the OEM sliders. The seat bottom cannot fit between them, thus you lose about 1-1.5" of space. If the lateral slider spacing was different things would have been much easier.

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  3. #77
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    I know that sucks.
    But what troubles me is that a friend of mine with NA and first generation Lotus seats sits like an mile lower than me.
    I need to get hold of his car and do some measuring.
    Want to check out how it is to mount them right on the floor, I'm the only driver anyway.

    High seat combined with my boat-wheel makes it challenging to driv inspired.

  4. #78
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The best Lotus seat configuration I sat in were custom mounts/sliders and had the seats virtually on the floor. I sat in them at night, which I could have taken some pictures.

  5. #79
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    Forgot to update with picture of the car after I adjusted the height.



    Centre of hub to edge of fender.
    Front => 310mm
    Rear => 322mm

    Find it hard to measure so for me internal reference I measure on the coilovers.

    Only think I have done after this picture is wheel alignment. Went for the famous Icehawk-setting and ended somewhere close to it.

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  7. #80
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    longer stick...

    Sent fra min SM-G935F via Tapatalk

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  9. #81
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    I have some coolant leakage after reassembling my engine after the head overhaul.

    Where the leakage first appear while idling.



    I have removed the cam cover and the covers in front to easier locate where the leakage origins from.
    Have not found it yet.

    I have checked the torque of the neck out of the waterpump and the two bolts I manage to get to while the cam belt are in.

    I'm hesitating to remove the cam belt.
    Got a tip from a friend, mount the cam cover and the water pump belt and test to start up while the covers in front are removed.

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  11. #82
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    There is a housing that bolts to the side of the water pump (bolts not in view, 12mm x 2). There is a gasket between them.

    There is also an o-ring on the hard, metal pipe that connects to this housing. The pipe runs under the exhaust manifold. Sometimes, when this pipe is moved or disturbed, the o-ring can leak. This is especially true if it is old or brittle. Also, sometimes that metal pipe needs a *little* bit of force to seat it with a new o-ring. A very light application of lube on that o-ring helps.

    Untitled-1.jpg

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  13. #83
    Deep-state actor ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Same thing happened to me and a couple friends after moving that hard pipe. Yes, that ring needs replacement and just be careful inserting that pipe again.


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

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  15. #84
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent[emoji1282
    Orange;220138]Same thing happened to me and a couple friends after moving that hard pipe. Yes, that ring needs replacement and just be careful inserting that pipe again.
    That housing can sometimes build up with scale inside, too. I usually clean the inside with a wire brush/sand paper. I will also put a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and scuff the mating surface of the housing (that bolts to the water pump) to see that it is flat. I’ll continue that until it is. It is a cheap way to flatten the mating surface.

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  17. #85
    Deep-state actor ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    That's a good tip. My buddy and I just finished a two-day turbo install on his Miata and were pretty exhausted of it all, thinking we were finished when that leak appeared. We thought we were done but of course no. New rule of thumb: if you even touch that pipe, get a new seal, grease it up and yes, clean out the scale.

    I used my little pistol-like Dremmel with wire brush and then a Brawny paper towel twisted in there with a screwdriver41XSJWVGJNL._SL500_.jpg


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

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  19. #86
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    Coolant leakage seems fixed

    Thank you for all the good tips and how to.


    Pulled it off


    After some working with sandpaper and a flat wooden surface I added some stuff.


    None oem o-ring. No leaking, I'm happy


    Threw it together



    I sent my prayers upward and downwards and hoped at least one of them heard me.
    I fired the car up, revved it some and had it run until the fans kicked in.
    (Geeeh, these Spal fans moves air.)

    I did not notice any coolant leakage
    Yeah!



    buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut.

    I noticed this


    After I Removed the car.

    The shoe is size 10.

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  21. #87
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    the SlampMobile

    Good job!

    I planed a turbo manifold using sand paper I glued on a sheet of glass laid on table. Just sat there for about an hour, sliding it around. It worked really well.

    Regarding oil leaks, I don’t think I have ever had a Miata that didn’t leak oil from *somewhere* at sometime. It’s a Miata thing, maybe Mazda recreated the classic British roadster a little too accurately?

    What area of the engine did the drip come from?

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  23. #88
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Good job!

    I planed a turbo manifold using sand paper I glued on a sheet of glass laid on table. Just sat there for about an hour, sliding it around. It worked really well.

    Regarding oil leaks, I don’t think I have ever had a Miata that didn’t leak oil from *somewhere* at sometime. It’s a Miata thing, maybe Mazda recreated the classic British roadster a little too accurately?

    What area of the engine did the drip come from?
    Thank you.
    Using a sheet of glass would have been better. I considered a wooden plank to be good enough to clean the surface.
    I don't like oil leaks.

    I have to get under the car to identify the source.

    Left in picture are front of car.
    In the middle and top of picture you can see the suspension alignment bolt.
    I would guess it's in the areas where engine and gearbox comes together.
    As long it is engine oil, it's ok since I can measure the level. If it is oil from the gearbox I become a little worried.

  24. #89
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    It’s a common place for oil to collect as it is a low point where the two (engine and transmission) meet. I’ve had oil run back to there from driving. The wind pushes it back to this spot. It could be the CAS, valve cover, dipstick tube where it meets the pan, even the oil galley with the bolt plug that people use to feed turbos on the earlier engines. It could also be the oil pan or rear main seal (RMS). The “good” news is it looks dark, so it it likely motor oil. If it were transmission oil, it will smell like gear oil.

    Bad/torn shifter turret boots can also let fluid out and it can run down to there.

    I have the same solution you have; just monitor the oil levels and watch if the drips increase. I usually park my car over clean cardboard from a flattened box to watch for leaks and their location.

  25. #90
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Slampen's Avatar
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    Time for some updates......

    Took the car when attending a training camp in Elverum.
    Typical me I did not have the time to do the fun route, so it was mostly highway cruising at 4000rpm



    Had my first breakdown with the car.

    On the way back home it started to smell gasoline as I passed some construction working trucks, the smell did not go away so I headed for the next exit. The car did hesitate when I pressed the accelerator, like it did not get enough fuel.
    I managed to find a place to stop


    Opened the hood and found this

    All the bolts to the fuel rail was loose.
    I fastened them and drove home, just a 10 minutes drive.

    Next morning when I started the car to leave for work it did not sound well, I opened the hood and it was gushing fuel out of injector #4.
    I took the Mazda6 to work.

    Later that day a friend of mine came by with new o-rings and seals for the injector, actually he changed them while I watched his daughter.

    I don't know why the bolts to the fuel rail become loose. Only alternative I see is that I have not torqued them down when I mounted the fuel rail last winter.

    I checked the manual


    and it says max 10.7nm, which is not much.



    Rollbar

    Time to change roll bar. I was fed up with the seatbelt issue that the BossFrog Clearview Maxx gave me.

    I considered many options and landed on the GC2 from GCFabrications.


    My friend Trym making me nervous










    Swapped seat with Trym since he should have a look at how to get the VX220 seats closer to the floor.
    I kind of liked the Sparco Sprint. I though that I needed bucket seat with at least 400mm inner width, so my surprise was big when I fit perfect into the Sprint's wihch is 360mm. A new world of options opens.

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