Dose any one else have this problem with their NA? After driving the car for 20 to 30 mins the Trans tunnel/aka center console gets extremely hot. Its so bad I cant keep a bottle of water in the cup holder without it getting so hot you cant drink it. Even the shifter boot gets hot but the shifter its self doesnt get hot. If anyone has any info please help.
Take your center console out and inspect both shift boots. That heat could be an indication of worn out and torn shift boots.
Agent☣Orange (08-28-2014)
Okay I was thinking about doing that this weekend
Is your shifter loose as well?
No todo que es oro brilla.
no it is not
I had the same problem in my NB and it took a lot of insulation to quell the problem. Worn boots are the usual suspects in an old Miata because they allow a lot of heat and noise but even with new boots, the tunnel is still going to get hot. Same with my current ride. If your boots are good, a couple layers of heat barrier can mitigate the tunnel-heat problem down to nothing.
No todo que es oro brilla.
Pfunk (08-28-2014)
Yep, I had to add a lot of heat barrier to my NB. The transmission and foot-well would be too hot to touch, despite keeping the boot, etc., refreshed. I finally installed serious amounts of heat and sound barriers and it has made a huge difference. To do it well, however, is a major pain in the bum or very costly do have someone do it for you.
It's not that bad...just an afternoon's work but you only have to do it once and never again feel your ankles burn.
No todo que es oro brilla.
Well, mine was pretty damn thorough--it took two guys more than a day, but of course I had the entire car done. I'm not exactly known for half-measures...
I added some water heater insulation under the carpet when I did a dash and carpet swap.. It adds a little bit of bulk on the tunnel but it's not too noticeable
Agent☣Orange (08-28-2014)
Duct insulation does wonders on a Miata and it's cheap.
No todo que es oro brilla.
Jturner, do you have the factory exhaust with all heat shields in tact? With the close proximity of components in the fr layout heat shields are not to be underestimated. Aftermarket setups that omit shields and/or increase piping diameter can have major downside effects. For example, I replaced my resonator with an aftermarket unit for cost considerations and I now overheat my gas tank on long drives, surpassing the evaporative system's ability to vent and raw fuel fumes fill the cabin. That's not roadster life
Are the fumes from the tank itself, or from the evap canister? If the latter, I just did a mod which made all the difference in the world. I ran a line from the evap canister to the back of the car, along the frame rail. My FM rail reinforcements made for convenient hanger points but even a stock rail could be made to work. Anyway, before the line, even with AC set on recirculate it was noxious in the cabin. With the line, it's all good! My wife dreaded longer drives before if the top was up, but now we have no fumes at all.
TimTim (08-31-2014)
just google or find the video on YouTube for something along the lines of "Miata hot foot". it's a dorky guy but the method in which he addresses the issue is pretty neat and can be accomplished pretty easily i would think.
4 things took the burning right foot away for me, I don't feel the heat even with the 3" downpipe inches from the ol' foot.
Just to give you some ideas if you get tired of it like I did.
Lots of 2k heat wrap on the drivers side tunnel
Coolmat applied on the interior
Little sound proofing helps insulate a little too
Some closed cell foam just for a little crθme de la crθme
Agent☣Orange (08-30-2014),kung fu jesus (08-30-2014)
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