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Thread: Installing a Mcintosh PF-2520i-A to Miata NA (......on-going)

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Installing a Mcintosh PF-2520i-A to Miata NA (......on-going)

    First up this not a how to but rather a motivation to fellow enthusiasts who believe that they can do it and it can be done. Budget for this project is $700.

    Donor - Mcintosh PF-2520i-A and EF-1080-D 5 channel Amp from a 2002 Subaru Legacy Sedan, make sure the pigtails (cut-harness connectors) are included. Aftermarket connectors are available for the head unit but the one for the amp is hard to come by. Snatch this in Ebay for $370.



    Now let's play.....I need help lol.

  2. #2
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Mounting bracket is by Metra 99-7501. Requires some hacking but you will figure it out and dremel make it easy.


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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Okay can someone please chime in on this?

    1. I you look at the connector schematics, connections 1 and 7 are labelled ILL+ and ILL- (Illumination), do I need to connect the ILL- or can I leave it un hooked?

    2. What does B/U on connection 6 stands for? Is that the 12v continuous wire for? Since connection 10 is ACC (12v switch)?


  4. #4
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jux's Avatar
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    Subbing for McIntosh goodness. Yummmm...
    '90 "LE" with red bits - 7/6 Flex, FM Front Bar, 14x7 +19 RPF1, PWR, SPAL, Maxim Works, Thermal R&D, HDHCSDM2, Zoom, Anvil II, 330mm mahogany Deep Corn, AC/PS delete, LE interior, attitude
    '08.5 CWP MS3 GT - AST 4100, TriPoint Rear Sway and Links, JBR STS w/ bushings and lockout plate, Moddiction Anvil II

  5. #5
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Satisaii's Avatar
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    Just a guess here, but if you can get an electrical schematic for the donor car it would help.

    B/U probably is back up and would be 12V cont.
    You would need both ill hooked up, and it looks to me that the -ill is going to dim in the donor car, but the on/off switch is the +ill.

    Caveat: I barely passed my EE for ME class. Take with a large grain of salt.

  6. #6
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Satisaii;148896]Just a guess here, but if you can get an electrical schematic for the donor car it would help.

    B/U probably is back up and would be 12V cont.
    You would need both ill hooked up, and it looks to me that the -ill is going to dim in the donor car, but the on/off switch is the +ill.

    Thanks for the input. Yes I do have the schematics for both cars. You're the third person who said B/U is the 12v Cont. I am no electrical person so my guess on how the schematic looks can't be measured lol. But when I follow the flow both B/U and ACC lines ends at the power source except the ACC has a switch like figure. And since there are no other lines that would designate for the 12v Cont, I will take this as it is. As to the ILL- line I found out that 94-97 has a dimmer- line and can be trace from the dash light dimmer control.

  7. #7
    Idling - Listen to it purr... MemphisMiata's Avatar
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    Any update on this install?
    How does it sound?
    What speakers do you have in the car?

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