Which Brake Pads & Rotors?

[WaWaZat]

I'm a new owner of a '92 and the 1st order of biz will be to get all the worn mechanics replaced, fluids changed, etc.

First with the brakes. The front brakes are new but the rears are down to the metal.... seems a little odd with only 53K on the car but it is what it is.

My question is.... which brake rotors and pads are you guys using for hard-core street performance and perhaps a little autocross & road racing?

Who has the best prices on what you guys are recommending?

Also, when replacing rear rotors and pads, what else is best to replace? Bushings, guide pins, etc?

And finally, anything I need to know to do while doing this job? Such as what brake slide grease works best and where you put it, etc.

[BoBo]

For the back, the stock rotors & pads will give you more than enough stopping performance for street & autoX.

For Street to road racing, power slot rotors and Hawk HPS pads will provide you with OK performance, with all motor power. Add Hawk Street/ Race pads for better overall performance.

I would first recommend upgrading to the 1.8 brakes before upgrading to the mods I mentioned. I remember how weak the 1.6 brakes were, even after upgrading the pads and rotors.

[Rogue]

I upgrade to 1.8 brakes and use OEM Mazda Pads for street/autox/occasional DE.
(Picking up 2 sets of pads today)
They work well and light dust, and with BBS's that matters.
Ill use more aggressive pads on my dedicated Autox/track car.
BTW, Some autoXers use more aggressive on rear to add bias.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Use a quality OE blank rotor. Slots and crossdrilled rotors are not worth the money.

Akebono, Axxis, Hawk, EBC, Carbotech, Stoptech are all brands I have pleased with. DO_NOT use race pads on the street.

Get some high-temperature grease for your guide pins. If you want to go refurb, start looking for the guide pin boot kits and pad springs/clips. Keeping the guide pins clean and greased is as important to the brakes as anything else.

If you haven't looked up how to retract the rear caliper piston, do so now. It needs to be done with an allen wrench from an access hole on the backside. You cannot press it back into place.

[Grumpy]

As I'm in the same situation, I thought I'd check in this thread... Steve, Something like these then? EBC oem style rotors, and the Green Stuff pads?Their ultimax pads weren't available for both front and rear, and it seemed to be more for soccer-mom use than Spirited driving...
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-S11...n%3A6149817011

http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-S11...n%3A6149816011

[— kung fu jesus —]

Honestly, I use Centric or Napa rotors. Blanks. No cross drilled holes, no slots. I generally use Hawk or Carbotech pads, but that is my preference to my style. Hawks for the street, Carbotechs on the track. One set of rotors for each pad set. Never mix them, follow the manufacturer's bedding procedure.

This is on a '92 with 1.8 brakes, 1.6 proportioning valve and MC. I use braided lines at the corners, stock calipers, stock hardware, and I bleed the fluid often. I inspect, clean and lube the caliper boots and guides at least once/year.

Braking has never been an issue at the track or on the street.

[Adventiv]

Napa premiun rotors, Hawk HP+, a good brake fluid (i use Tilton Racing fluid), and stainless steel lines if it's in your budget (makes a big difference)

[90blue]

1.6 brakes with aggressive pads for auto x they are lighter. Get a 1" master from either the 626 or the 929 car and the 01 booster non ABS. There is a big thread on mnet about this. It will increase the feel dramatically.

For street try the 11" wilwoods front and sport rears. Axxis ultimate work well.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Charlie, I think the EBCs would be good for your application.

[Grumpy]

Thanks Steve. I appreciate it!

[Rogue]

1.6 brakes with aggressive pads for auto x they are lighter.

I did that, with cross drilled rotors……It was awesome until I took it to Hallett, and now the rotors are wavy as a record left in the sun. ;)
Time for a more multi-purpose set up, if I plan to do track days with an autoX car.

[HarryB]

Thread hijack, but what do you guys think about Pagid blanks? I found some pretty reasonably-priced ones for my Sport brakes. Should I go with them or EBC for DD/occasional track day?

[Demon I Am]

I've never heard of Pagid, maybe something more common in your country?

Just to put this out there; I've had no issues with Centric rotors. I've had them on 2 MX5s, Protege5, and an Accord without issue.
I used to be a big fan of the Axxis Ultimates (also sold as PBR Ults) but they were way too dusty for daily duty, unless you like to wash your wheels every few days. Quite grippy, though.

I currently am trying to figure out whether or not I have Sport brakes. It's listed on my car's Maroney sticker, but MazdaUS says that by VIN the car does not. I've also heard that all cars 2002+ have the same brakes. Most web sites have pads/rotors differentiated by Sport/Standard though. I guess the only way to tell is by measuring the rotor?

[— kung fu jesus —]

Pagid is an OEM supplier for a lot of manufacturers, like BMW, Volvo, etc. I think they will be fine.

[MLambert19]

1.6 brakes with aggressive pads for auto x they are lighter. Get a 1" master from either the 626 or the 929 car and the 01 booster non ABS. There is a big thread on mnet about this. It will increase the feel dramatically.

I'm assuming the FM or GarageStar Master Cylinder Braces will still work with this setup? I'm intrigued, as I was planning on utilizing stock 1.6 hardware for now (the BBK kits won't fit my +25 SSR RS8's without a big spacer and I'm running Naturally aspirated for now anyway). Is the 01 Booster the thick one?