Buying another Miata.

[NbSteve]

Hey guys, my name is Stephen or Steve. Used to own a 95 NA8 while away at college but sold it before moving home. Loved it and now that my current DD gives me issues,(Ford Explorer offroad build) I figure it's time to go back to a car that I won't trash in the dirt.

AAAAANYWAYS
I've been looking high and low, and figure the best bang for my buck is buy a nice low mile NB on a loan w/the signature of mommy (only 18 with a maxed credit card because I didn't have a job for some time at school). So I'm finding that anything under 80k miles costs around 6-7.5 grand. Doable? Totally.
My biggest question is this: 2002 LS, 44k on odometer, clean interior and soft top, garaged/collected by first owner, DD by second (lady in mountain regions). She's asking 7400.

What do you guys think is fair price with the assumption that I check it out and there's no sign of premature/extended wear and has been properly maintained?

Also, what are some pros and cons of the vvt nb2 vs. the nb1, besides coil packs and potential #4 cam bearing problems?

Thanks guys! Glad to be apart of the forum and can't wait to get my next Miata and start a thread on it.


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[— kung fu jesus —]

Some NB2 have clutch pack LSDs which aren't known to be too reliable compared to the helical units. I think those started in '03? Some say '02 is the best year for the NB2. If that LS checks out, take it.

I find the NB2s more comfortable.

[NbSteve]

Sweet that's the year I'm hoping to pick up as well. Now what do you think about the price given that all he details on the ad match what I see in person?


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[— kung fu jesus —]

It's a good price, for sure. Still, due diligence is necessary. It's 14 y.o., so even at that mileage it may need some maintenance from lack of use. Records will be telling.

[NbSteve]

Any key things to look for along those lines? I didn't pay much attention to the last one when I bought it other then no leaks, and it drove and felt mechanically sound


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[— kung fu jesus —]

Crash damage (overspray, mismatching tones, etc.), leaks underneath, milkshake in the radiator, water on the inside of the oil cap, clutch clamping ability, holes in the top or upholstery, hose and belt condition, etc. I like to bring my OBD scanner on newer cars, it allows me to see any codes and if the diagnostics were recently reset. I sometimes bring a compression tester, too.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, pay for an independent inspection.

Take lots of pictures for your own reference.

[NCGreasemonkey]

Get the owner's approval and get it on a lift. Look under for rust, holes, damage and anything that looks 'wrong'. Bartering point and you know what is underneath.

If they don't want the lift-look, RUN!

[NCGreasemonkey]

Crash damage (overspray, mismatching tones, etc.), leaks underneath, milkshake in the radiator, water on the inside of the oil cap, clutch clamping ability, holes in the top or upholstery, hose and belt condition, etc. I like to bring my OBD scanner on newer cars, it allows me to see any codes and if the diagnostics were recently reset. I sometimes bring a compression tester, too.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, pay for an independent inspection.

Take lots of pictures for your own reference.

KFJ You beat me to it but I got in a short comment!

[NbSteve]

Lol thanks guys. Well that particular deal fell through, and you guys just confirmed everything I know now I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything.
Another question though. Base, LS, or SE? Dealer says base but also lists is as a FWD Car..... ._.
So based on interior and the lights having body color edges, isn't that the SE? Doesn't list the trans type (5/6spd).

[—Martin—]

That's a 2002 Special Edition. I think it's called Titanium Gray.

[NbSteve]

Sweet that's what I thought. Thanks man


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[HarryB]

This edition (with the brown leather) was called Phoenix in Europe. Body colour is indeed Titanium Gray (IMO the best looking colour in NB2)

[wannafbody]

Look for rocker rust and frame rail rust.