NB, setting valve lash, remove cams?

[kevinharrop]

Hey guys,

So the "new" Miata has 137k on the clock, and I doubt that the valve lash has ever been adjusted. It is supposed to be adjusted at 75k. So even if it was done then it is nearly due now, and I need to do a timing belt change on it so I think it should all happen at once.

1) Mazda seems to have shims in increments of .002", while Haynes specifies a tolerance of .001" for the lash on both the intake and exhaust. Is there another source for shims in smaller increments?

2) I'm having trouble finding a valve bucket presser that will allow me to take out the shims. Any idea where to get one?

3) If I can't find the presser, how mad is the idea of removing the cams? It does not seem to complex while replacing the timing belt.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Satisaii]

Done it by removing the cams. The Mazda spec SST is a bit out there for a DIY or small shop. We prefer OEM shims. Used some others once and scored the cams. Just go by the OEM FSM for the procedure and tolerances.

[kevinharrop]

Thanks.

The SST is the spring compressor? And is pricey, no doubt.

Stick to Mazda shims? Certainly don't want to score my cams, that would be going backwards.

I have the Haynes manual. The factory manual is hundreds of dollars, no?

From my investigation with the Mazda dealer, it seems the shims come in about .002" increments, while the Haynes manual seems to say that both sides should be within a .001" tolerance, so that presents issues.

But pulling the cams does not sound crazy to you? Seeing as I'll have the timing belt out...

[kevinharrop]

Oh and is it ok to move a shim from one bucket to another assuming that it was the correct thickness for its new location? Or will this "wipe" the cam lobe?

[kevinharrop]

Are you in Los Angeles?

[— kung fu jesus —]

Thanks.

The SST is the spring compressor? And is pricey, no doubt.

Stick to Mazda shims? Certainly don't want to score my cams, that would be going backwards.

I have the Haynes manual. The factory manual is hundreds of dollars, no?

From my investigation with the Mazda dealer, it seems the shims come in about .002" increments, while the Haynes manual seems to say that both sides should be within a .001" tolerance, so that presents issues.

But pulling the cams does not sound crazy to you? Seeing as I'll have the timing belt out...

http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....955#post203955

Pulling the cams while the belt is off is just a another 10 bolts per side.

That link is stuck to the top of this section you posted this in.

[Satisaii]

With OEM cams, I have never had a problem hitting the targets in the FSM with OEM shims. I have never had the Haynes manual.

I had some non OEM base circle cams that needed .150+ shims, and that is why I purchased some non Mazda shims.

[kevinharrop]

With OEM cams, I have never had a problem hitting the targets in the FSM with OEM shims. I have never had the Haynes manual.

I had some non OEM base circle cams that needed .150+ shims, and that is why I purchased some non Mazda shims.

Wow, you've DONE this before! Are you in LA?

[kevinharrop]

http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....955#post203955

Pulling the cams while the belt is off is just a another 10 bolts per side.

That link is stuck to the top of this section you posted this in.

Thanks, I noted that a few days ago. I had trouble navigating my way thru it but I'll try again.