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View Full Version : My 95 becomes my fun track toy. (WARNING: COLLEGE BUILD, slow progress)



xjdesertfox
01-13-2012, 02:09 AM
Hey everybody,

Thought I'd start this here as today marks the beginning of my miatas journey from uncared for DD(Previous Owner) to a Weekend Driven Canyon/Track car.

Just some quick background on me: This is my first car, Ive had tons of trucks/jeeps/motorcycles, but never a car. I work at Oreillys, so a big majority of parts will come from work as I get a decent discount. I go to school for mechanical engineering, and will most likely be building some of the parts myself.

Here is from earlier tonight when I brought him home.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/405441_10150492823232284_630617283_9050914_1614399 244_n.jpg

What came with the car:
Shitty fucked up air filter zip tied to the stock air tube
daisys covered in ass tons of brake dust(yea, on a 95)
EBC greenstuff pads and slotted/drilled rotors (will be swapping for brembo blanks with porterfield pads)
Momo Corse seat
No carpet
New headunit
TB/WP recently done

Plans for the car:
maintenance (Fluids, Clutch slave, stainless lines)
Half Cage
High end coilovers(I may have a secret product coming for these)
225 RS3's
Bushings
Weight reduction
etc, etc, cookie cutter, etc.

I havnt done much but driven it so far, I picked it up in santa barbera and drove it down 100 miles to make it home, it performed great for the most part, It took me awhile to learn and get comfortable with the car

I got it home and the first thing i did was swap out the plugs for some NGK 7090's from work. I also need to order some NGK wires for it as the current ones suck.

Well thats it for now, hopefully Ill have some more updates soon!

stormin'norman
01-13-2012, 02:45 AM
(will be swapping for brembo blanks with porterfield pads)

Looks like a fun project ahead of you and you're going in the right direction by doing some maintenance first. I will however make a recommendation not to be dooped into buying Brembo blank rotors. Put some money back in your pocket towards driving and get cheap centric/pbr blanks for half the cost.

xjdesertfox
01-13-2012, 03:47 AM
Looks like a fun project ahead of you and you're going in the right direction by doing some maintenance first. I will however make a recommendation not to be dooped into buying Brembo blank rotors. Put some money back in your pocket towards driving and get cheap centric/pbr blanks for half the cost.

my cost on brembo blanks is $10 less per rotor than getting the centrics. Hell, regular resale on them through me is about $30/rotor

Afaik you cant get the centrics cheaper than that.

pmhaddad
01-13-2012, 09:21 AM
If you get the 10% SM discount on Saferacer you can get 4 carbotech blanks for $90 shipped. I'm not really aware of any blank cheaper than that with shipping. But if you can get the Brembos for $10 less per than then Centric, that's the best deal!

weeata
01-13-2012, 09:41 AM
I would like to make a recommendation if you are planning to track your car... don't worry about putting a ton of performance parts on the car at first -- it will be very tempting. Learn to drive the car as it is. Don't let performance upgrades make up for your lack of skill on track. I see it all too often, for example, people try to squeeze more time out of their lap times by putting super wide sticky tires on their car instead of learning to approach/exit the corners better. My NB falls into the CSP category in autocross (I bought it that way), and I am running against guys with 10 or 15 years of experience under their belt, where I only have 2 years and they whip me every time.. and there are racers who put every performance upgrade possible on their car and they can't keep up with the other cars in their class.. just remember, the car is only as good as the person behind the wheel.

I went and bought a bone stock NA and I am only now learning to truly improve my skills as a driver because the car isn't helping compensate for my mistakes. A Miata is an awesome track car as it sits stock. When you find that your skill exceeds the abilities of your car, do an upgrade to match your skill level.

:)

stormin'norman
01-13-2012, 11:10 AM
my cost on brembo blanks is $10 less per rotor than getting the centrics. Hell, regular resale on them through me is about $30/rotor

Afaik you cant get the centrics cheaper than that.

$30 per rotor sounds spendy.. 0.o Fair enough, good luck and keep us updated.

zenit
01-13-2012, 12:45 PM
$30 per rotor sounds spendy.. 0.o

Rockauto's got rotors for ~20 per for zinc coated and ~13 per for cheapo centrics.

Also, as a guy that seeing light at the end of track/restoration tunnel, don't underestimate the cost of just basic maintenance parts.
You could definitely drop 3-5k in just replacement parts, before all the go-fast bits.
Ask me how I know ;)

Also, factor in the cost of track days. If you only go once a month, it's about 400 per entry after all costs.

Not to dissuade you! Go nuts and don't be afraid to ask questions. Especially with those bushings.

Schain
01-13-2012, 01:05 PM
Sounds like you have a good build planned. I look forward to seeing the progress.

xjdesertfox
01-13-2012, 01:39 PM
Weeata, I definitely agree with you. Since this build is going to be SLooooooowwww, I figured id be able to afford the parts with more and more experience that i get under my belt. So i guess everything works out great haha.

Definitely the priority at this point is maintenance. Its eating some coolant and spewing it out of the exhaust so im assuming the HG is bad, however at this point its not getting into the oil so i'll probably pick up a Fel-pro HG set next pay day. (assuming books dont rape me in my asshole)

Does anyone know if i need new head studs as well?

Along with the HG, we'll swap all the fluids, planning on:

ATE super blue (since i can get it at work) for brakes and clutch
AMSoil MTG or RL MT-90 in the trans/turret
AMSoil SVG 75w-90 or redline shockproof 75w-90 in the diff.

Today i swapped out the oil, black, cruddy Royal purple 20w-50 the previous owner had in the car for some German Castrol 0w-30 I had in my stash, along with a wix filter. No HLA tick and purrs like a kitten.

Ill try and get into the habit of taking pics of what i'm doing.

stormin'norman
01-13-2012, 01:40 PM
Rockauto's got rotors for ~20 per for zinc coated and ~13 per for cheapo centrics.


That's more like it. I pay 12-15 through work for pbr/centric rotors. Never had issues tracking.

pmhaddad
01-13-2012, 04:44 PM
I agree with the whole "don't go insane with the go-fast bits" advice that weeata gave, but I would also like to say that if you are doing HPDEs and stuff like that to become a better performance driver (which I think is the whole point for most of us....) then it IS worthwhile to invest some money into stuff that will help you learn how to drive better. Suspension of course in particular - learning on the stock suspension is a must, but if you really are serious about learning to drive better you have to have a setup that is realistic, running good tires on stock suspension is a good start (its what I've been doing for 6-7 months now). I've seen some people do HPDE on their stock pads, and the miata stock pads are pretty good, but when it comes down to it they won't last more than a few laps when you are pushing hard and trying to improve your consistency.

I also think (and some may not agree) that autox is a great way to start getting a feel for a car that you are just starting to drive. It sort of lets you push the limits and get a really good feel for tire pressures and stuff before you take it to the track.

Just my $0.02

weeata
01-13-2012, 04:50 PM
^ I totally agree with you. I've just seen so many people buy a car and go completely nuts buying every performance part for it. Not saying that's what OP is going to do, but just wanted to throw that in there to plant that thought seed. Trust me, I'm no expert in these manners, but I know a lot of people who are WAY more experienced with me and that is the general thought process I hear all the time.

zenit
01-13-2012, 05:05 PM
Its eating some coolant and spewing it out of the exhaust so im assuming the HG is bad, however at this point its not getting into the oil so i'll probably pick up a Fel-pro HG set next pay day.

Uh oh. Rarely is a head gasket replacement just a head gasket replacement. If it's bad enough to leak, you might need to skim the head flat, which includes dismantling it too. Not good.

I bought my r-package in similar condition only to find that the head was waaay warped and the short block done due to bad oil rings. I attempted to replace the head only to have to pull the entire thing and rebuild it all. Beware.

If you do pull the head- you better be sure that you're scrupulously clean, otherwise you'll contaminate the oil and end up with a knocking engine.
Happened to me, and another guy on CR.

Here's a good set of instructions though:
http://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/04/head-gasket-time/
Revlimiter does an awesome job of being clean with it.



Does anyone know if i need new head studs as well?

Uh huh. ARP's hands down.



Along with the HG, we'll swap all the fluids, planning on:

ATE super blue (since i can get it at work) for brakes and clutch
AMSoil MTG or RL MT-90 in the trans/turret
AMSoil SVG 75w-90 or redline shockproof 75w-90 in the diff.

Look into Motorcraft Fluids, they are probably cheaper, definitely more accessible (any ford parts store and alot of chain auto parts stores) and are all pretty good.






Ill try and get into the habit of taking pics of what i'm doing.
DO IT!

pmhaddad
01-13-2012, 05:37 PM
Look into Motorcraft Fluids, they are probably cheaper, definitely more accessible (any ford parts store and alot of chain auto parts stores) and are all pretty good.



I'll second the Motorcraft fluid plug. I'm running that stuff in my trans and diff right now and it feels like a shifter rebuild! It is actually pretty pricey, but I'm not sure how it compares to AMSOil - you can probably get that cheaper since you work at a parts store anyways. I actually had a lot of trouble finding it, but I do hear that Ford dealers should have it. I got mine from some Ford racing shop in Central FL.

zenit
01-13-2012, 05:47 PM
The autozone 'round here carries the diff and gear oil from Motorcraft. I have to go to dealer's parts area for the brake fluid.

Speaking of Motorcraft, I'll plug the DOT3 fluid.
Great stuff, probably about 4-5 a bottle.
Carol Shelby endorsed.

xjdesertfox
01-13-2012, 10:15 PM
Uh oh. Rarely is a head gasket replacement just a head gasket replacement. If it's bad enough to leak, you might need to skim the head flat, which includes dismantling it too. Not good.

I bought my r-package in similar condition only to find that the head was waaay warped and the short block done due to bad oil rings. I attempted to replace the head only to have to pull the entire thing and rebuild it all. Beware.

If you do pull the head- you better be sure that you're scrupulously clean, otherwise you'll contaminate the oil and end up with a knocking engine.
Happened to me, and another guy on CR.

Here's a good set of instructions though:
http://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/04/head-gasket-time/
Revlimiter does an awesome job of being clean with it.


Uh huh. ARP's hands down.


Look into Motorcraft Fluids, they are probably cheaper, definitely more accessible (any ford parts store and alot of chain auto parts stores) and are all pretty good.





DO IT!

Fantastic... guess I should just leave everything stock for now andstart saving for parts/machining...

if I contnue to drive it right now, will it hurt any? I guess it doesn't matter if I'm going to rebuild the whole thing. But id rather only have to do the head if possble.

zenit
01-13-2012, 10:49 PM
What evidence do you have that coolant is really getting into the combustion chamber?

Unless you're dead certain, it might be worth doing some more tests before you do any engine surgery.
One of these should give you more information about the problem:



Compression test- If it's leaking, there will be a certain loss of compression

Coolant Pressure Tester- Might be available for rent at an autopart store

Exhaust Gas Analyzer- It'll let you know it you're burning coolant for sure.

Oil Analysis- It's probably also getting into your oil. Wouldn't be a bad idea anyways, just to detect potential problems with an engine that you're personally familiar with.


All of these are cheap things to do that will at least give you real reason to suspect an engine rebuild is in the works. Who knows, maybe it's just some bad valve stems seals and a small coolant leak somewhere?

xjdesertfox
01-14-2012, 12:53 AM
What evidence do you have that coolant is really getting into the combustion chamber?

Unless you're dead certain, it might be worth doing some more tests before you do any engine surgery.
One of these should give you more information about the problem:



Compression test- If it's leaking, there will be a certain loss of compression

Coolant Pressure Tester- Might be available for rent at an autopart store

Exhaust Gas Analyzer- It'll let you know it you're burning coolant for sure.

Oil Analysis- It's probably also getting into your oil. Wouldn't be a bad idea anyways, just to detect potential problems with an engine that you're personally familiar with.


All of these are cheap things to do that will at least give you real reason to suspect an engine rebuild is in the works. Who knows, maybe it's just some bad valve stems seals and a small coolant leak somewhere?

On my next day off I'm borrowing a leakdown tester and we'll find out the results.

Ill test the cooling system in the next couple of days when I get some time.

I just threw in some new oil, in about 2k miles ill flush it out and send it to blackstone to see what the fellas have to say

xjdesertfox
01-18-2012, 05:18 PM
Went to the DMV today to get new plates. It only came with one so I needed two to be legal here in so cal. Got my plates and realized I had no way of mounting the front one. Looked online and saw the ones that mount to the tow hook, scrolled down to the price, $45? are you insane?

So I went to home depot;

1 Packet fender washers
1 packet M10 Lock washers
1 Packet M10 Nuts
1 M10 x 50mm Screw
1 6" Stanley Corner brace

$6.51 later I have this!

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/bracket.jpg

Its mounted identical to the way the $45 one is mounted, and all i did was bend the corner brace and drill a hole in the plate.

xjdesertfox
01-23-2012, 03:01 AM
Took the car to a meet on wednesday night, was the only miata there. Its kind of fun, lots of people were asking me about it.

Getting ready to roll out to the meet from work:
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-18213208.jpg

Had some time to work on the car today. Pressure tested the cooling system, everything is 100% A-ok and it hasnt eaten any coolant in the past week. So who knows, maybe it was just a ton of condensation in the exhaust.

Changed the ALT/WP belt as well as the A/C belt (car has a manual rack). I went with Gates belts and now i no longer have any belt squeal when i fire the car up.

Decided I was going to paint my daisies after this. Stood in front of the paint cabinet at walmart for a good half hour before deciding on a color. My choice? Italian olive green in satin finish, with gloss duplicolor wheel clear.

In the process of painting (yes I know my masking sucks, I really do not care about these tires.)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-22210802.jpg

The finished Product
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-22234308.jpg

While my wheels were off I noticed my Driver side rear caliper was leaking from the parking brake adjuster. First I thought it was my stainless brake lines, but they were dry. So i'll pick up a rebuilt caliper at work this week.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-22210646.jpg

xjdesertfox
01-23-2012, 07:06 PM
Got some work done today as well, update to come!

xjdesertfox
01-24-2012, 01:32 AM
Well, an update to what was SUPPOSED to be finished today.

I ordered two re-manufactured rear calipers through work. As we were reassembling everything on the passenger side, the last thing i was going to do was replace the brake line. As i started to screw in the brake line, I threaded it in, threw the ratchet on it and completely stripped the threads on the caliper. I think they were already stripped as i didnt even apply any force before it slipped.

Got in my shift knob extender today, shifting feels great with this, atleast as much as I can tell while my car is on stands. Pictures tomorrow.

Mounted painted wheel pics will ensue tomorrow as well.

xjdesertfox
01-25-2012, 01:56 PM
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-25103341.jpg

Parts are here. Installation will ensue.

xjdesertfox
02-03-2012, 07:09 PM
Wow, been a few days since Ive updated. I guess Ive been slow on taking the pictures since nothing is really worth mentioning.

Not much work has been done aside from new plug wires and a Razo mirror. Today I got this little gem in the mail that makes me smile.

2072
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/430590_10150541481432284_630617283_9199051_1104741 459_n.jpg
2073

Also, girlfriend got me some new shoes for driving =D
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/321662_10150279102982284_630617283_8040637_2339891 _n.jpg

Kinda corny I know, But i absolutely love them, they feel similar to my pilotis, but a little heavier.

xjdesertfox
02-07-2012, 12:52 AM
Got a rennenmetal spec miata gas pedal cover in the mail today, pics tomorrow.

Trying to procrastinate studying right now, Ive been thinking about things which I want done, in the general order of how I want them done.

Now that maintenance is done I can actually start modding...

Shifter rebuild: Planet miata full shifter rebuild + 5xracing aluminum shifter collar
Respray my front bumper
Wheels/Tires: White Konig flatouts with some sort of sticky 205's
Blueprinted front hubs with ARP wheel studs from 5xracing
New steering components: MOOG inners, outers, and lower balljoint.
Coilovers: FCM, Xida, Monoflex? Something cheaper like konis + GC? who knows?! If fcm would put another sale on them Id probably lean toward the fcm's
RB Tubular front bar + 949 adj endlinks
Prothane master bushing set
Blackbird fab GT3 6 point
GV lip
Aero: Planning on making a splitter which goes all the way back to the rear of the subframe, and a diffuser which goes all the way to the front of the rear subframe, as well as a rear bumper cut, front canards...
Transmission: Im on the hunt for another tranny. My grinding into 5th really bugs me.
Clutch: Probably a FM happy meal
Motor: 99 head with VICS manifold + 01+ header. Maybe a bottom end rebuild while im at it.

Other things will be done in between these big mods too, im planning on stripping my interior down to bare metal and respraying it soon, along with my trunk.
I HATE my seat, its too small for me. Hopefully a seat pops up in the for sale section for me to pick up.

I expect most of this to be done about this time next year. In my head i feel ahead of schedule right now, My DD will be paid off in september so that will open up a lot of funds as well.

xjdesertfox
02-14-2012, 01:14 AM
Got some stuff in from work today.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-02-13213701.jpg
Gonna work on this on thursday, along withthe new toy we brought home this past weekend.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-02-11152139.jpg

I also got a PM asking about my daily driver, which they saw in the SUV thread. So I guess ill throw it in here as well.

Its a 2008 Chevy Colorado that I bought fresh off the dealer lot, its got 4.10 gears, locker, extended uppers and coilovers up front. Its got red label generals on it now.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/15294_340185252283_630617283_3809786_7449282_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375475_106905702764005_100003337269950_39925_14806 81477_n.jpg

zenit
02-14-2012, 09:53 PM
Don't forget about the miata with the new toys!
Gs500 right? Air cooled twin goodness! Almost bought one for a first bike.


Just $0.02.
If you're going to trouble of rebuilt calipers and expensive brake fluid- get new brake hardware too. Clips, springs, etc.
What pads are you going to use?

Also, if no one has told you yet- check out mazda motorsports development. Really great prices on rebuild equipment, and all you have to do is post two race results from an autox. For instance, ~60 for an oem hose kit. When was the last time you replaced those hoses?

xjdesertfox
02-15-2012, 01:04 AM
Don't forget about the miata with the new toys!
Gs500 right? Air cooled twin goodness! Almost bought one for a first bike.


Just $0.02.
If you're going to trouble of rebuilt calipers and expensive brake fluid- get new brake hardware too. Clips, springs, etc.
What pads are you going to use?

Also, if no one has told you yet- check out mazda motorsports development. Really great prices on rebuild equipment, and all you have to do is post two race results from an autox. For instance, ~60 for an oem hose kit. When was the last time you replaced those hoses?

Indeed a GS500, its a 2000 we got for $900. Seller claimed it needed a new clutch, we were able to adjust back into usability.

New brake hardware came with the calipers ;) New springs, clips, pins/sliders(whatever theyre called lol).

The car currently has some unknown brand drilled/slotted rotors(im not a fan), and EBC greenstuff pads(they wont be staying), car also has goodridge stainless lines.

xjdesertfox
02-17-2012, 11:21 AM
So I suck at build threads. Flushed my tranny, changed my oil, and gutted more of my interior last night. But I get so caught up in actually finishing the work before 10pm when my neighbors complain that I didnt take any pictures.

My tranny took just under 2 qts of fluid, I actually pumped all 2 qts in there and had gobs of it come out. My turret had some of the nastiest oil ive ever seen in it. Ran out of redline so I put some GL5 mobil 1 into the turret, hope it doesnt leak into the tranny.

My dust boots are completely annihilated right now, I just have a gaping hole in the floor where I can look at the transmission.

I think next up on the removal list is the passenger air bag, air bag control module.

xjdesertfox
02-17-2012, 10:43 PM
Started on a project today which has been bugging me since the car was gutted, the drivers side floor pan. As we all know, the bare metal is NOT flat. This bugs the shit out of me when wearing hard heeled driving shoes.

Please ignore my $20 ebay special steering wheel, it came with the car lol.

My floor looked like this as I started. You can see where my shoes have completely worn away the factory paint down to the bare metal.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0767.jpg

Here were my supplies. One 24x18" piece of "duraplex", One paint stripping sponge, One pack of sheetmetal screws, and two cans of Krylon enamel(BOGO at oreillys right now =D)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0771.jpg

First things first, rip the seat out for more work room.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0770.jpg

Does it look like I need new boots?
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0769.jpg

Vacuum the floor, begin scuffing
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0772.jpg

Keep Goin
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0773.jpg

I taped off the general area of stuff I didnt want painted.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0774.jpg

After a coat of primer
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0775.jpg

Then I sprayed my enamel and let it dry for a couple hours. I then took measurements for what size the floor piece needs to be. I went with 21x14". Then I test fitted it into the pan.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/DSC_0776.jpg

Thats it for now, part 2 maybe later tonight or tomorrow.

xjdesertfox
02-25-2012, 07:02 PM
Got some stuff today

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/424798_10150592552207284_630617283_9343346_9904621 03_n.jpg

I gotta give it up to Brian at goodwin racing, not only was he the ONLY one who had the mazdacomp mounts in stock, he got them to me OVERNIGHT. Im VERRRRY pleased with my purchase from goodwin, great communication and super fast shipping. How every seller should be.

xjdesertfox
02-27-2012, 02:07 AM
So today I tore into my car to replace the motor mounts. I was scratching my head wondering how the mount was supposed to come out. So i just started unbolting shit.

Decided the header was in my way, so I ripped it out.

While it was out I decided I was just going to replace it. Called up a customer from work, went down the street to his house.

Paid him a hundo, walked out with this + 2 brand new mazda rear calipers + Stock air box w/ K&N drop in + an exedy HD clutch kit with a stock flywheel.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429813_10150595281562284_630617283_9354940_9009946 45_n.jpg

Jackson racing Carb legal 1.8 header.

I have to say, I came out on top here...the header looks brand new, apparently he ran it for a month.

So then I took out my motor mounts, does it look like I needed new ones?

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/429638_10150595435532284_630617283_9355998_1298506 535_n.jpg

Stopped tonight after we got the passenger side out. We're going to finish up the motor mounts tomorrow, Install the jackson racing header, install the stock airbox(hate my janky filter setup), and flush and fill my cooling system.

ALSO, I need to replace a freeze plug, does anyone have tips on replacing it? I have a brass freeze plug replacement from dorman, but I have never changed one before...

xjdesertfox
02-28-2012, 03:05 AM
Today i finished up my weekend project. I love my header, the butt dyno feels an improvement, Im assuming this is due to the motor mounts as well.

Once I had everything ripped out:

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-02-27155941.jpg

You can see where the freeze plug was leaking. I smacked the old one out, cleaned up the surface with sand paper, applied some permatex "right stuff" to the new freeze plug and smacked it into the block.

After that I finished up with my motor mounts, and dropped in my new JR header, as well as a stock airbox.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-02-27215411.jpg
Compared to my janky ass old setup.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-01-15101842.jpg

I flushed my cooling system right after this, I think I burped all the air out. No problems as of yet. I flushed out all the green in favor of 1 bottle of water wetter + Zerex G05

xjdesertfox
02-28-2012, 02:48 PM
Just put in some Bosch Ecodes with hella xenon bulbs, girlfriend snapped a pic of me putting them in.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/64333_10150834230868065_828588064_12391374_6949139 6_n.jpg

Ill get some pics of output and aiming tonight when I get off work.

xjdesertfox
02-29-2012, 07:22 PM
Got a rennenmetal spec miata gas pedal cover in the mail today, pics tomorrow.

Trying to procrastinate studying right now, Ive been thinking about things which I want done, in the general order of how I want them done.

Now that maintenance is done I can actually start modding...

Shifter rebuild: Planet miata full shifter rebuild + 5xracing aluminum shifter collar
Respray my front bumper
Wheels/Tires: White Konig flatouts with some sort of sticky 205's
Blueprinted front hubs with ARP wheel studs from 5xracing
New steering components: MOOG inners, outers, and lower balljoint.
Coilovers: FCM, Xida, Monoflex? Something cheaper like konis + GC? who knows?! If fcm would put another sale on them Id probably lean toward the fcm's
RB Tubular front bar + 949 adj endlinks
Prothane master bushing set
Blackbird fab GT3 6 point
GV lip
Aero: Planning on making a splitter which goes all the way back to the rear of the subframe, and a diffuser which goes all the way to the front of the rear subframe, as well as a rear bumper cut, front canards...
Transmission: Im on the hunt for another tranny. My grinding into 5th really bugs me.
Clutch: Probably a FM happy meal
Motor: 99 head with VICS manifold + 01+ header. Maybe a bottom end rebuild while im at it.

Other things will be done in between these big mods too, im planning on stripping my interior down to bare metal and respraying it soon, along with my trunk.
I HATE my seat, its too small for me. Hopefully a seat pops up in the for sale section for me to pick up.

I expect most of this to be done about this time next year. In my head i feel ahead of schedule right now, My DD will be paid off in september so that will open up a lot of funds as well.

Decided to update the list a little bit.

Diff mounts(poly from 949)
Respray my front bumper
Wheels/Tires: White Konig flatouts with some sort of sticky 205's
Steering wheel <---For the love of god, I need to ditch that flexible Ebay wheel
Seats <---- Bride vios reps.
Aero: Planning on making a splitter which goes all the way back to the rear of the subframe, and a diffuser which goes all the way to the front of the rear subframe, as well as a rear bumper cut, front canards...
Hardtop
Coilovers:Konis + GC or Vmaxx 2 Track
RB Tubular front bar + 949 adj endlinks
Prothane master bushing set
Blackbird fab GT3 6 point
GV lip
Clutch: Probably a FM happy meal <------Just got an Exedy HD, needs a new friction disc though.
Motor: 99 head with VICS manifold. Maybe a bottom end rebuild while im at it.

AARP
02-29-2012, 08:20 PM
Got some stuff today

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/424798_10150592552207284_630617283_9343346_9904621 03_n.jpg

I gotta give it up to Brian at goodwin racing, not only was he the ONLY one who had the mazdacomp mounts in stock, he got them to me OVERNIGHT. Im VERRRRY pleased with my purchase from goodwin, great communication and super fast shipping. How every seller should be.
Goodwin is usually my go to but for future searches Corksport sells them for around $20 cheaper. Just got them today, installing at the GW Techday.

That's one hell of a deal for $100. I'd kill for a 1.6 JR header.

xjdesertfox
03-01-2012, 12:48 AM
Goodwin is usually my go to but for future searches Corksport sells them for around $20 cheaper. Just got them today, installing at the GW Techday.

That's one hell of a deal for $100. I'd kill for a 1.6 JR header.

I did not order from corksport because I did not believe they were selling mazdacomp mounts, I believe they were selling mounts for the mazdaspeed miata.

http://www.corksport.com/mazdaspeed-motor-mounts-for-miata-99-05-miata-90-97-miata.html?sl=EN

The pictures on their site are not of mazdacomp mounts, they are of standard style motor mounts with the "N" casting.

It also nowhere makes note of the part number, and the fact that they were $20 cheaper than EVERYONE made me believe they werent the product I was looking for.

This thread shows that the "N" mounts shown on corksports website arent the "mazdacomp" mounts
http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=49332

Thanks for stopping by my build, drop by more often ;)

AARP
03-01-2012, 01:02 AM
I did not order from corksport because I did not believe they were selling mazdacomp mounts, I believe they were selling mounts for the mazdaspeed miata.

http://www.corksport.com/mazdaspeed-motor-mounts-for-miata-99-05-miata-90-97-miata.html?sl=EN

The pictures on their site are not of mazdacomp mounts, they are of standard style motor mounts with the "N" casting.

It also nowhere makes note of the part number, and the fact that they were $20 cheaper than EVERYONE made me believe they werent the product I was looking for.

This thread shows that the "N" mounts shown on corksports website arent the "mazdacomp" mounts
http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=49332

Thanks for stopping by my build, drop by more often ;)
Nope, Corksport is selling the real deal. Here's some pics I snapped out of the box.

http://i42.tinypic.com/nzzo6.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/10s8zo5.jpg

xjdesertfox
03-01-2012, 01:06 AM
Damn, now I wish I emailed them first. Oh well, theyre in the car now =D

Youre going to love those mounts. It was a royal bitch putting them in though, atleast for me since I do everything with a basic jack and jackstands.

AARP
03-01-2012, 01:29 AM
Damn, now I wish I emailed them first. Oh well, theyre in the car now =D

Youre going to love those mounts. It was a royal bitch putting them in though, atleast for me since I do everything with a basic jack and jackstands.

You can come offer constructive criticism for me next Sunday at the TechDay.

xjdesertfox
03-01-2012, 01:53 AM
I might stop by once I get off of work. I work until 4.

The biggest hurdle was lining up the bolt holes on the passenger side once it was time to bolt them back up, what we did was raise and lower the motor with each bolt starting with the one closest to the starter.

Also, do yourself a favor and just remove the exhaust manifold.

xjdesertfox
03-02-2012, 02:58 AM
Today I replaced my left rear caliper again as the 2nd replacement I got seized on me.

This time its been replaced with a mazda genuine rebuilt unit.

Flushed the whole brake system with ATE super blue, Put some liquimoly mos2 anti-friction additive in the oil.

I figured this was all stuff I had done before so it wasnt worth it to take pictures.

Next things coming up is going to be a set of Konig flatouts in mag blue or polished. Any opinions?

Also,on a (currently) non-track, canyon driven car which gets driven only on the weekends, but is driven very hard, should I be looking for a 300 treadwear like a neogen? Or a sub 200 treadwear tire?

stormin'norman
03-02-2012, 10:44 AM
Also,on a (currently) non-track, canyon driven car which gets driven only on the weekends, but is driven very hard, should I be looking for a 300 treadwear like a neogen? Or a sub 200 treadwear tire?

I would opt for something sticky. Star Specs and re11 are pretty well mannered tires for their performance. If you want more longevity get s.drives.

edit: only on the weekends.. 200 treadwear or bust.

xjdesertfox
03-02-2012, 12:45 PM
I would opt for something sticky. Star Specs and re11 are pretty well mannered tires for their performance. If you want more longevity get s.drives.

edit: only on the weekends.. 200 treadwear or bust.

Any thoughts on kumho ecsta XS or Federal 595 RSR's? I REALLY want starspecs, but I dont know if the budget can handle it.

Also, If I were to get TR motorsports 15x8's instead, would I feel a big differece between the 12.5lbs of the konigs and the 14.8 of the TRM's?

stormin'norman
03-03-2012, 12:02 PM
Any thoughts on kumho ecsta XS or Federal 595 RSR's? I REALLY want starspecs, but I dont know if the budget can handle it.

Also, If I were to get TR motorsports 15x8's instead, would I feel a big differece between the 12.5lbs of the konigs and the 14.8 of the TRM's?

I have no experience with the xs or 595. I think the XS is supposed to have phenom dry grip, poor cold/wet performance and if I'm not mistaken performance drops off quickly the older they get/more heat cycles. Many people love them though especially for the price.

I doubt you would notice a difference in weight but seeing as both the Konig and TRM are similar in price I would chose the lighter one.

xjdesertfox
03-03-2012, 08:10 PM
I think im going to try out the federals, Im getting local quotes on them for $90 mounted and balanced each. if I dont like them Ill ditch them and get some RS3's from tire rack when they restock.

xjdesertfox
03-06-2012, 03:01 AM
Well, Wheels and tires have been sorted out. Now I'm going nuts trying to decide on a direction to go with suspension.

I have an opportunity to pick up some MSM complete billi's with tophats for $300. I feel like this would be the best thing to go with for now since I dont have a lot of driving experience. I want coilovers, but feel like I would constantly be fucking with them when in reality I should be fixing my driving.

However, Ive read that the billie's DONT like rough roads, especially with stiffer rates. I dont mind discomfort, at all. This car is my weekend car and currently has 400F/R springs on blown OEM shocks, it cant get worse than this... BUT I dont want to sacrifice canyon driving performance just so I can run higher rates for the track. Most of the roads I frequent often have bumps/manholes mid-turn, and Im worried that with billies, the suspension will be upset mid turn and send me off a cliff.

Should I save up more and get something else? vmaxx?

Budget is about $800. I want something for function, but with ride height adjustment. (shocks would get collars, so gotta factor that into price)

AARP
03-06-2012, 03:29 AM
Speaking from an old school extremely firm setup (Koni Yellows on Flyin Miata springs) the only time I really get rattled is about half-way through ACH on the big sweeper. However, I've heard going to NB bumpstops would help remedy this.

stormin'norman
03-06-2012, 12:34 PM
Whatever you do don't drink the FM Vmaxx coolaid. ;) It's 100% marketing and customer service that sells them. A couple reputable local autocrossers got their hands on a set this past weekend and said they were quite disappointing.

Bilstein route sounds solid. Perhaps piece together a Billy + GC esque setup. Send the shocks out to be rebuilt and valved to the spring rates of your choosing. Pick up some new bumpstops and FCM NB hats. If you have the time and patience it could be pretty affordable minus the shock rebuild costs.

xjdesertfox
03-06-2012, 12:50 PM
I've definitely noticed that more people who track are running a billy/shock combo.

Will msm billies still have life in them at 60k?

I don't have money to have them rebuilt/revalved by shaikh or bilstein right now.

The gc setup uses different spring sizes than stock right? So I can't buy springs now and then use them on gc when I eventually get them right?

How stiff can I go on stock msm's? Can I go 450/300? 550/400? I plan on getting a big front RB bar.

Is there a big difference between nb billies and msm billies? Is $300 for what I'm getting a decent deal?

stormin'norman
03-06-2012, 02:43 PM
Something plug n play might be better for you. Look into the Tein Street Advance with NB shock mounts from 949. Get the optional 8 or 9k front springs, Racing Beat fsb and be done.

xjdesertfox
03-06-2012, 03:44 PM
That's actually one of the things I was considering. If I were to do that, id pick up the rb fsb with the 949 links and throw that on to hold me over while I save for the coilovers. Do i get the .188 wall race Fsb?

xjdesertfox
03-06-2012, 06:23 PM
Got my tax return, wheels, tires, and hopefully a hardtop will ensue

stormin'norman
03-06-2012, 09:42 PM
That's actually one of the things I was considering. If I were to do that, id pick up the rb fsb with the 949 links and throw that on to hold me over while I save for the coilovers. Do i get the .188 wall race Fsb?

That's what I would do.
http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Sway-Bars/54107.html

Make sure you pick up their block and bolt brace kit or new sway bar brackets from mazdacomp, AWR, goodwinracing etc..

Oh and the 949 end links are nice. DON't buy RB's links. I hate dealing with those things lol

xjdesertfox
03-07-2012, 12:31 AM
That's what I would do.
http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Sway-Bars/54107.html

Make sure you pick up their block and bolt brace kit or new sway bar brackets from mazdacomp, AWR, goodwinracing etc..

Oh and the 949 end links are nice. DON't buy RB's links. I hate dealing with those things lol

Thanks. Next paycheck will be sent to emilio for a fsb setup.

My wheels have been put on will call for me, my federal 595rs-r's have been ordered, and lug nuts from 949 are on the way. Im thuper excited.

xjdesertfox
03-07-2012, 01:50 PM
Took me 3.5 hours round trip, in LA rush our traffic. But theyre home.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-07103923.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-07103421.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-07103442.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-07104054.jpg

I have a feeling these wheels are gonna need a serious fender roll with the tires im getting. These suckers are bigger than I thought.

stormin'norman
03-07-2012, 01:58 PM
Take those drilled and slotted rotors off. That is if you have serious intentions of using this at the track. :) You're shooting yourself in the foot.

Flatouts look great in that color.

xjdesertfox
03-07-2012, 02:00 PM
Take those drilled and slotted rotors off. That is if you have serious intentions of using this at the track. :) You're shooting yourself in the foot.

Flatouts look great in that color.

It was discussed a few pages back, The car came with them, along with EBC pads. Im not a fan of either, but they work for right now, I have no intentions of keeping them though. Ill order some centrics from rockauto and some porterfield pads once the sway bar gets ordered.

Blackbird
03-08-2012, 02:19 PM
Speaking from an old school extremely firm setup (Koni Yellows on Flyin Miata springs) the only time I really get rattled is about half-way through ACH on the big sweeper. However, I've heard going to NB bumpstops would help remedy this.You also have a BFW 6 point roll bar which makes your car far more solid than a normal NA which doesn't have a roll bar at all... :)

Moti

AARP
03-08-2012, 04:31 PM
You also have a BFW 6 point roll bar which makes your car far more solid than a normal NA which doesn't have a roll bar at all... :)

Moti

True, when I start getting some cashflow we'll start discussing suspension options Moti :D

xjdesertfox
03-08-2012, 04:34 PM
Don't worry moti, ill be making a trip to see you, hopefully sooner than later.

Just got back from the tire shop, not bad for $300 mounted and balanced.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-08120252.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-08123346.jpg

xjdesertfox
03-10-2012, 03:57 AM
Mounted up my wheels tonight, but it was too dark to get a pic. Ill get one tomorrow

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428695_384378604906774_100000039142456_1520159_213 5236409_n.jpg
I used silver 949 lugs
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/419760_384378351573466_100000039142456_1520158_147 6860254_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429232_384379574906677_100000039142456_1520162_165 7683337_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/424835_384379711573330_100000039142456_1520163_202 908513_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
03-10-2012, 04:02 AM
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/416780_384380568239911_100000039142456_1520167_175 9985846_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
03-10-2012, 12:24 PM
got an alignment, should have gone to west end, but I didnt want to wait a month, So I gave a local tire shop the 949 racing specs and we got as close to it as we could.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/421142_10150617871222284_630617283_9429690_4719472 35_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/430318_10150618033962284_630617283_9430371_1330959 761_n.jpg
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/420719_10150618033412284_630617283_9430368_1015179 286_n.jpg

urban
03-10-2012, 12:26 PM
i like those wheels

xjdesertfox
03-13-2012, 03:32 AM
My car now has an emerald green metallic hardtop on it.

stormin'norman
03-13-2012, 10:44 AM
I'm feelin the wheels as well. Nice choice.

fitftw
03-13-2012, 10:51 AM
Looks great. Post a pic with emerald green hardtop!!

xjdesertfox
03-13-2012, 01:27 PM
Best i can do for now. Can't pull the car into the sun because im painting the front bumper in the garage right now.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/2012-03-13103605.jpg

Blackbird
03-14-2012, 12:39 PM
Definitely bolt the top down with security bolt etc...
I know of more than one guy in the area that had his HT stolen.

Moti

xjdesertfox
03-14-2012, 02:34 PM
Definitely bolt the top down with security bolt etc...
I know of more than one guy in the area that had his HT stolen.

Moti

Oh yes I intend on it. Does it matter which brand I go with? I was going to get the SP induction plates.

Got my GV lip on today, Excuse my extremely dirty/greasy car.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/423704_10150626218177284_630617283_9459045_1828331 748_n.jpg

Im attending the local Low N Slow meet tonight, Ill take some better pictures there tonight.

xjdesertfox
03-17-2012, 01:26 AM
I need new seats...

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/423943_373546886010209_100000647024023_1189355_148 5694502_n.jpg

stormin'norman
03-17-2012, 10:55 AM
How did the 595 RS-R's turn out?

xjdesertfox
03-17-2012, 12:43 PM
How did the 595 RS-R's turn out?

Theyre awesome. Theyre super loud on the highway, But the grip is phenomenal. They definitely like heat, I have to literally try to heat them up a bit before I can jam on them. This tire wouldnt do well in autocross.

Its sort of a new experience for me trying to find their limit, theyre similar to R compounds in a way, they dont make ANY noise, NONE, and traction doesnt gradually drop off at the limit, it just sort of disappears.

I need more camber in the front. My cams are maxed out and its at 2.2 degrees, my rear has 2.0 degrees. My buddy has a pyro and we probed it after a run and Im still hotter on the outside by a few degrees. From what I read in emilio's specs you want about 10 degrees hotter on the inside.

Next purchase is going to be a steering wheel/hub, followed by a pair of seats. On the seats, in order to run regular w2w track days(non competitive) and SCCA autocross, do I need FIA approved seats?

stormin'norman
03-17-2012, 12:54 PM
Next purchase is going to be a steering wheel/hub, followed by a pair of seats. On the seats, in order to run regular w2w track days(non competitive) and SCCA autocross, do I need FIA approved seats?

I can't think of any seats worth buying that aren't? Have you thought of just buying a rollbar first and doing some driving? Seats and a wheel go a long ways towards preventing driver fatigue but won't keep you off the track without having them.

xjdesertfox
03-17-2012, 02:40 PM
I can't think of any seats worth buying that aren't? Have you thought of just buying a rollbar first and doing some driving? Seats and a wheel go a long ways towards preventing driver fatigue but won't keep you off the track without having them.

The problem is, the seat my car came with doesnt fit me, its too narrow in the shoulders and causes a lot of discomfort. The steering wheel my car came with is an ebay special that flexes more than a bendy straw.

These things need to be remedied before Im happy with driving my car. I was planning on going with replica seats, I've sat in them and driven in them. They feel great to me, but since theyre reps theyre not FIA approved.

stormin'norman
03-17-2012, 03:39 PM
The problem is, the seat my car came with doesnt fit me, its too narrow in the shoulders and causes a lot of discomfort. The steering wheel my car came with is an ebay special that flexes more than a bendy straw.

These things need to be remedied before Im happy with driving my car. I was planning on going with replica seats, I've sat in them and driven in them. They feel great to me, but since theyre reps theyre not FIA approved.

I've never seen a non competitive event check seats real thoroughly. I know many people have said some decent things about the reps but if it came to saving a few bones I would still never get reps. Peace of mind and knowing that I supported the original "artist" per say is much more valuable in my eyes. Be patient there are deals out there on great seats allowing you to not break the bank but also not skimp in the safety department. Used is also an option.

xjdesertfox
03-21-2012, 02:20 AM
HALP =(

http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?2031-Help!-WTF-is-this-noise&p=32137#post32137

adamvanxxx
03-21-2012, 10:49 AM
Maybe you assploded your diff.

xjdesertfox
03-21-2012, 11:46 AM
Definitely not hoping for that.

adamvanxxx
03-21-2012, 11:48 AM
Most likely not, I just saw you have a 95.

xjdesertfox
03-21-2012, 12:12 PM
Ive been looking all over youtube, it doesnt really sound like any of the broken miata diffs I'm hearing.

Ill try and put my car in the air today and check the driveshaft for play.

xjdesertfox
03-21-2012, 02:52 PM
crisis averted! bolts that hold the shaft to the pinion worked their way loose. blue loctite plus torque wrench = winning

adamvanxxx
03-21-2012, 03:24 PM
Good to hear.

xjdesertfox
03-22-2012, 12:31 PM
So, received my garagestar hardtop brackets, just ordered a nrg 2.5 qr and a grip royal leather steering wheel.

Ran the car last night at mulholland, took the car up and down the mountain a few times. Cars running great, I'm extremely happy with the handling thus far, but god damn do my shocks hate rough roads

xjdesertfox
03-24-2012, 01:49 AM
So today I went to change out my hardtop brackets.

Fuck my car's previous owner. The bolts that hold on the top and side strikers are all mismatched. 3 of them are stripped. My hardtop was one of the ones with red loctite on the screws from the factory. I cant get one of the screws out, and I've stripped the head on another.

Im going to have a fun morning of heating the screws up with a soldering iron to break the loctite, then using an extractor to back them out =(

adamvanxxx
03-24-2012, 07:44 AM
Impact screwdriver is god for those things. It takes some time but worked for me.

ThatWhiteNA
03-24-2012, 09:13 AM
Nine pages in on a "track" build and you still have no roll bar? No offense, but c'mon, man.

That said, the car looks nice. I love the wheel choice.

xjdesertfox
03-24-2012, 12:35 PM
Nine pages in on a "track" build and you still have no roll bar? No offense, but c'mon, man.

That said, the car looks nice. I love the wheel choice.

9 pages in on a track build and im still undoing the fucked up shit the previous owner left me with... i dont have the 1k+ for moti's work yet.

ThatWhiteNA
03-24-2012, 08:16 PM
9 pages in on a track build and im still undoing the fucked up shit the previous owner left me with... i dont have the 1k+ for moti's work yet.

$1k? I had a half-cage (main hoop back, legal sized tubing, welded in) fabbed for $350. Are you doing a full cage or just a roll bar with lots of look-cool crap, hype and overpricing added to it? Again, I mean no offense (to both parties), but I can't justify paying that much for just a roll bar that has some fancy gusseting and nothing else that makes it better than any other roll bar, no matter how nice it looks. A grand is full cage territory. Just food for thought. If you are indeed going full cage, I will take that back. lol

That's a fair reason to not have one yet, though.

xjdesertfox
03-25-2012, 01:17 AM
$1k? I had a half-cage (main hoop back, legal sized tubing, welded in) fabbed for $350. Are you doing a full cage or just a roll bar with lots of look-cool crap, hype and overpricing added to it? Again, I mean no offense (to both parties), but I can't justify paying that much for just a roll bar that has some fancy gusseting and nothing else that makes it better than any other roll bar, no matter how nice it looks. A grand is full cage territory. Just food for thought. If you are indeed going full cage, I will take that back. lol

That's a fair reason to not have one yet, though.

I actually used to build off road race trucks for desert racing here in california, and I'm a fabricator myself. I know good work when I see it, and Ive discussed the materials and methods we're talking about using on my setup, and theres no way I could even cover the cost of materials and consumables for $350. I'm looking to do a half cage, I want it welded in, with it tied into the chassis at multiple locations. I would do it myself, but I no longer have access to a bender/welder.

ThatWhiteNA
03-25-2012, 06:03 PM
Maybe the shop I went to is underwater in debt. Who knows? I won't turn this into a ten page argument.

Either way, have fun spending extra money for no reason. I'm sure the car will turn out as nicely as it already has no matter what you do.

xjdesertfox
03-25-2012, 06:21 PM
Maybe the shop I went to is underwater in debt. Who knows? I won't turn this into a ten page argument.

Either way, have fun spending extra money for no reason. I'm sure the car will turn out as nicely as it already has no matter what you do.

Dont get me wrong man I definitely shopped around here to find a price. Those people who are recommended out here in socal are all charging in the same ball park, so I figured I'd take it to the man who knows miatas anyways.

Im a very deal oriented person and if I could find the same quality for cheaper I would.

xjdesertfox
03-31-2012, 02:28 AM
So everything on the car has been running smoothly lately, I havnt been posting updates because I havnt been doing anything to the car, just driving it.

Im trying to carefully plan my next steps in my build, theyre going to be the most costly.

First up on the bucket list is a roll bar. I dont know If I can afford a 6 point yet, But I just need some sort of protection right now.

After that Im going to get a RB FSB.

Now here is where Im still debating; what the hell do I do for suspension?

Theres so many options, its been covered in this thread, but I just didnt know what I wanted. Until today when I rode in a car with koni's and OTS eibach springs.

I want to run koni yellows, with GC's, and FCM mounts.

GC, and koni, and FCM both make NA and NB versions of their product, should I get NB versions for everything?

Im thinking koni yellows with no revalve
500/300 GC's
FCM upper mounts and bumps.

This should put me at about $1150 for suspension which all has a lifetime warranty. Combined with an RB FSB setup I think this setup should be pretty solid.

xjdesertfox
04-10-2012, 02:04 AM
Just a simple update. Pictures from last weekend. And tomorrow I'm giving moti my deposit for a bar.

Our friend flipped his car on mulholland, opened my eyes to why I need a bar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJuuRlX4hSY

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/535349_10150815252542284_630617283_9656279_6403138 64_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/563611_10150815252622284_630617283_9656280_2974114 5_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/541362_10150815252752284_630617283_9656282_2039340 390_n.jpg

adamvanxxx
04-10-2012, 08:03 AM
Daamn

stormin'norman
04-10-2012, 09:29 AM
Our friend flipped his car on mulholland, opened my eyes to why I shouldn't drive like a high school clown on the streets out to prove something and am now saving for track days.


fixed for you

xjdesertfox
04-10-2012, 09:47 AM
fixed for you

i dont see anything wrong with running the canyons, its his own dumbass fault for what happened. We had a serious conversation with him prior to going up the mountain that he should drive within his and his car's limits.

If you take note of mine and the other two cars, we were driving well within our limits, and always do so, for our cars we were just cruising up the mountain...

stormin'norman
04-10-2012, 11:07 AM
If you take note of mine and the other two cars, we were driving well within our limits, and always do so, for our cars we were just cruising up the mountain...

Lol fair enough. He must have ran out of car and skill. Hopefully a good lesson. I still support saving money for track days!

I<3flippyheadlights
04-10-2012, 11:19 AM
Shit is he ok? His car looked much more..... erratic compared to the other ones in the video.

xjdesertfox
04-10-2012, 11:37 AM
He's fine aside from a scraped up arm that flew out the window when he rolled.

What actually caused the roll was him trying to avoid the inner gutter on the turn and he then understeered into the wall that flipped him over.

Blackbird
04-10-2012, 11:53 AM
$1k? I had a half-cage (main hoop back, legal sized tubing, welded in) fabbed for $350. Are you doing a full cage or just a roll bar with lots of look-cool crap, hype and overpricing added to it? Again, I mean no offense (to both parties), but I can't justify paying that much for just a roll bar that has some fancy gusseting and nothing else that makes it better than any other roll bar, no matter how nice it looks. A grand is full cage territory. Just food for thought. If you are indeed going full cage, I will take that back. lol

No offense taken, because there's no reason to take offense from this kind of commentary.
Every now and then someone will post about how overpriced this and that is and how they got their 12 point chromoly cage fully TIG welded by the hand of god himself for $895 including materials.

Maybe DOM tubing is growing in FL on trees in your neighbourhood and labor is free, best of luck trying to get any remotely decent cage done for $1K.
The ones I've seen that were done so far on a budget of under $2K were complete piles that I would touch with a 10 ft pole.
Guys around here thinking they got the deal of their lives doing a cage for $1200 when any fabricator that has a clue sees a death trap.
YMMV, I'll try hard to say no more.

Moti

xjdesertfox
04-10-2012, 04:06 PM
moti now has my money and I'm waiting and excited! Its not anything special, but its something that i've wanted for awhile.

ThatWhiteNA
04-10-2012, 10:05 PM
Glad to see you're finally getting the roll bar, man!

And Moti, I was harsh (and loose) with my comments. A hard day at the office is easily let out on the internet. I have a lot of respect for your work and would probably pony up the cash for your services if I had it... and lived closer, of course. My apologies.

psulja
04-10-2012, 10:10 PM
Wow that's crazy about the Celica flipping, but you can kind of see in the video that he was never really in control of the car and was having a tough time trying to keep up while the other cars looked quite composed.

AARP
04-10-2012, 10:19 PM
So whatdidya go with? 4 point?

xjdesertfox
04-11-2012, 12:40 AM
4 point na style gt3 with dark blue powdercoat to match my wheels.

Then when I can pony up some more cash ill get door bars. Moti's set-up is a fabricator's heaven. When I was making cages I could only dream of the tools he has.

xjdesertfox
04-11-2012, 05:58 PM
just picked up a new speedo cable for my car. Do I need to grease this before I install it?

Edit, speedo cable installed and now my car doesnt sound like its going to explode as I drive! wooooooo!

xjdesertfox
05-07-2012, 02:33 PM
So, some updates since I've neglected this thread.

Im still waiting on my roll bar to be finished.

I havnt done much to my car aside from put a momo steering hub and try to figure out this problem - http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?2528-Engine-Trans-noise-woes-Miata-gurus-hellp&p=40643#post40643

Still trying to decide on suspension. Im stuck between flex and xida-CS. Ill figure that out over the summer.

adamvanxxx
05-07-2012, 04:59 PM
Xida hands down preforms better. No personal experience, but I have heard nothing but good things about them or any other AST shock.

xjdesertfox
05-08-2012, 05:51 PM
Well, per my thread I linked above, shit has officially hit the fan with my motor. It is indeed detonation that i'm hearing.

Im trying to pick up a complete na8 motor to drop in, if it doesnt happen, I'm going to hunt down a short block and build it until this one blows. This motor thats currently in my car runs decent, but its pretty clapped out, not sure if I'd want to put anymore money into this motor, unless im rebuilding it.

Probably going to take the budget route as well and get some billies and GC's since i'll be spending money on my motor as well.

xjdesertfox
05-13-2012, 02:42 AM
Fuck your margins.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/412363_414844748547089_100000647024023_1295610_182 9055494_o.jpg

xjdesertfox
05-15-2012, 09:03 PM
if anyone has any insight, its appreciated.

http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?2528-Engine-Trans-noise-woes-Miata-gurus-hellp&p=41541&viewfull=1#post41541

xjdesertfox
05-22-2012, 12:09 AM
got sick of all my heatshield rattles.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/CameraEffects-2.jpg

Gene Rodriguez
05-22-2012, 10:32 PM
Fuck your margins.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/412363_414844748547089_100000647024023_1295610_182 9055494_o.jpg

thursday porter ranch meets?

xjdesertfox
05-23-2012, 12:57 AM
thursday porter ranch meets?

Csun automotive enthusiast x Coasting Society monthly meet. We float around different in n outs around the valley.

xjdesertfox
05-26-2012, 12:47 AM
Ill just leave this here...


http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/IMG_20120525_222616.jpg

xjdesertfox
05-27-2012, 08:29 PM
Started ripping my car apart.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/CameraEffects-3.jpg

Gene Rodriguez
05-28-2012, 12:50 AM
aha i believe i saw you on Thursday on CSUN campus and wow love the rollbar

xjdesertfox
05-29-2012, 06:50 PM
slowly making progress...

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/554621_10151007703282284_630617283_10032731_991034 311_n.jpg

psulja
05-30-2012, 12:09 AM
The roll bar looks great in there, I'm a huge fan of Moti's work. Is it welded in or bolted? I thought I remember reading somewhere that it would need to be welded but I forget now.

Blackbird
05-30-2012, 12:20 AM
Thanks!
The 4 point roll bars are normally bolted in, the 6 pointers are the ones that require some welding as a part of the installation process (but are still bolted to the car).

Looking good, Tim :)

Moti

xjdesertfox
05-30-2012, 12:36 AM
I must say, moti's got his dimensions on point as well! Nothing was mis-aligned or off, you can tell moti's been fabricating for a long while!

psulja
05-30-2012, 12:39 AM
Thanks!
The 4 point roll bars are normally bolted in, the 6 pointers are the ones that require some welding as a part of the installation process (but are still bolted to the car).


Oh, okay. Makes sense, thanks for clarifying that!

xjdesertfox
05-30-2012, 07:26 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120530_145551.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120530_120601.jpg

I learned something today about roll bars, they draw a fuck ton of attention. Drove to my buddy's house in the inland empire, top down, a single seat, and my roll bar.

Got pulled over on the 210 east by CHP, cop pulled me over because he wanted to check out my car. The whole drive today from chatsworth to upland, every car enthusiast would follow me through traffic, or try to catch up to me to get a glimpse of moti's creation.

Moti's work sure is eye catching ;)

Gonna put my hardtop back on in a couple hours, Ill write a bit more about the bar once I get my top on.

iamdallas
05-31-2012, 12:53 AM
I quite like that roll bar. Make me wish mine was a fancy color.

xjdesertfox
05-31-2012, 01:32 AM
Thanks, hopefully soon I can get my hardtop painted black, as well as a black seat so my car will actually match for the most part =D

Coilovers are still the priority right now. Decided to stick around the $1200 price point so I could afford bushings and eccentric bolts too.

Im debating between:
Fortune auto
Stance
Tein Flex.

iamdallas
05-31-2012, 02:36 AM
Fortune Auto!

xjdesertfox
05-31-2012, 02:25 PM
Fortune Auto!

Do you have them? ive been looking for a maita review on them. I've been emailing back and forth with fortune auto. Its kind of crazy how some of their shocks dyno almost identical to xida's. I've requested stroke numbers and specific miata dyno plots from them.

friday
06-01-2012, 02:22 PM
I say the fortune's seem solid because of the support that both RSpeed and fortune will offer you. A local guy had issues with one of his rear shocks and Rspeed had him fixed up pretty quick.

xjdesertfox
06-01-2012, 07:10 PM
Well, Fortune auto sent me a dyno on their 500 series shock for the miata today.

This is a 500 series shock
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/mx5500.jpg
This is a 510 series shock.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/mx5510.jpg

It seems the shocks are fairly digressive. Not nearly as bad as others in the price range like megan.

The only issue is fortune has informed me that the shocks have abotu 3" of stroke F/R. Emilio's shocks are pushing about 4.75" front and 4" rear.

So the valving looks ok(in my opinion), but the coilovers fall short on travel, but the question is "is all of that travel used?" with my limited knowledge of the miata suspension, I'd guess no. But Im guessing theres a reason why emilios shocks have so much travel.

xjdesertfox
06-01-2012, 07:14 PM
As a comparison, take a look at how much force the xida's can handle, at 9ips, the xidas are hitting -600lbs. According to fortune auto's graph of their $1500 510 series, theyre only hitting -300lbs @ 9ips.

http://949racing.com/images/Xida_S_Front.jpg

iamdallas
06-01-2012, 07:15 PM
yeah. I dont have them (yet)

But, Rspeed is local, and the level of service that you get there is incredible. Plus pre load is independent of height adjustment and they're cheaply rebuildable.

iamdallas
06-01-2012, 07:22 PM
Those xidas are of course much better than the 500s, but they're also nearly 2x the price. I think of Stance, Megan's, and FA500s, the Fortune Autos are the way to go. IMO.

xjdesertfox
06-01-2012, 07:59 PM
yeah. I dont have them (yet)

But, Rspeed is local, and the level of service that you get there is incredible. Plus pre load is independent of height adjustment and they're cheaply rebuildable.

When I see coilovers with "preload independent of height adjustment" it reads to me as "less travel than what the application SHOULD have"


Those xidas are of course much better than the 500s, but they're also nearly 2x the price. I think of Stance, Megan's, and FA500s, the Fortune Autos are the way to go. IMO.

This is true, however...the reason I'm comparing them is because FA claims their shocks are damn similar to a AST 4100 series shock. The people on Rspeed's site who have reviews them have claimed "similar ride to AST's"

So if I can achieve a similar ride to emilio's ASTs, for $1150. I would have jumped on it. For the price I agree they seem to be awesome, but from the data their giving me I dont see how anyone can compare these shocks to AST's, unless there is some magic thats making the data on paper not match the real life results.

Also, the difference between the FA 510's in the second dyno graph and the Xidas is only $400. 510's are 1499, xidas are 1899.

The only difference for me in california is that I have to pay shipping on FA's ($50) and on xidas I have to pay tax($150)

atlnb
06-01-2012, 08:34 PM
Having only heard about the FA's, I think they'll hold up very well for the cost. In terms of material like this, you typically get what you pay for, and from what I've heard from Hector and people who have FA's, they're a good buy as long as you don't go too low (height < 12.25"). RSpeed has nothing but fantastic things to say about these coilovers, I believe them since they stand behind their work and what they do. Emilio does as well and I had an opportunity to get the Xidas as a graduation present so I jumped on it.

On the question whether the full suspension stroke would be used, I would say yes because when you lower the car, you lose stroke and you need that extra displacement to keep from bottoming out and handle imperfections better. That's one area where the Xidas excel, along with other attributes.

xjdesertfox
06-01-2012, 09:37 PM
On the question whether the full suspension stroke would be used, I would say yes because when you lower the car, you lose stroke and you need that extra displacement to keep from bottoming out and handle imperfections better. That's one area where the Xidas excel, along with other attributes.

So by that logic less stroke with adjustable pre-load might actually be comparable? Youll have a loss of droop travel, but an equivalent amount of bump travel. Assuming,

Coilover A has 100mm travel, Coilover B has 75mm travel, Coilover A has non-adjustable shock bodies, coilover B does. Assuming Maximum extended and collapsed lengths are equal... If in both cases the car could utilize 120mm of travel at stock height, and the car is lowered 50mm. Coilover A will have 70mm of bump travel available, and 50mm of droop. Coilover B will still have 75mm of travel(total), only with the shock collapsed to a smaller maximum extended size. Meaning droop travel will be less.

Or I could be looking at this completely wrong... LOL.

iamdallas
06-02-2012, 03:29 AM
Well, with the reviews you have to account for the fact that most people (including myself ;) ) generally can't tell the difference between the different qualities of coilovers. Most people don't test the limits of their suspension.

If you're thinking of 510s, you might as well get the Xidas. But if you're on a budget like me, the 500s offer the most bang for the buck. That's all I'm saying.

xjdesertfox
06-13-2012, 01:49 AM
Did some maintenance today.

Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler, Water pump, Gaskets, Resurface coolant surfaces(water neck, water inlet on the water pump, where the water pump mounts to block), freeze plugs, radiater hoses, flush radiater, camshaft seals, crank seal, painted valve cover.

Think I tensioned the timing belt too much, I have a slight "whiirrr" at 3-4k RPMs, some people say this will go away with a little driving though.

My head is CLEAN, either my head has been taken apart before, or my diesel oil has been doing its job of cleaning.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/185123_10151038969617284_930590146_n.jpg

And my painted valve cover:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/598696_10151038586757284_67686303_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
06-13-2012, 05:25 PM
I decided my momo seat + my rollbar + stock seatbelt wasnt safe. I couldnt find a way to route my seatbelt in which the seatbelt retracted correctly and/or it felt like it would snap my neck in an accident.

So i ordered a Pull-up G-force 5 pt cam lock harness for the driver side.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/550669_10151040203042284_155892587_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
06-14-2012, 06:50 PM
My buddy sitting in my car, have no fear, I have since installed the sub strap.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/556910_455868911091076_965835410_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
06-22-2012, 01:37 AM
Took out my pass. Airbag, Re-mounted the cover on a hinge to turn it into a glovebox.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/600302_10151054442322284_1940973193_n.jpg

iamdallas
06-23-2012, 04:12 AM
Took out my pass. Airbag, Re-mounted the cover on a hinge to turn it into a glovebox.

Pics of said hinged airbag cover, please.

xjdesertfox
06-23-2012, 12:14 PM
Pics of said hinged airbag cover, please.

Will do, the way I did it is nothing special, I just used a door hinge, but its hardly even noticeable.

xjdesertfox
07-17-2012, 12:41 PM
Been working on the car little by litte lately. Preparing it for a suspension overhaul.

Recently put in an OEM thermostat, BKR6EIX plugs (one step cooler), and cleaned up my harness install.

I built a bigger workbench in my garage so I actually have room to work on stuff. I was dying trying to work on small projects on top of my tool box.

BUT, the big thing that made me update? I ordered some new toys....

700/400 Xida CS w/ Helpers
OEM Alignment bolts
Moog Lower ball joints

And now im hunting around for a bumpsteer kit.

http://ksrcollege.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/i-m-so-excited-meme-generator-i-m-so-excited-i-m-so-scared-3fa7af.jpg

xjdesertfox
07-17-2012, 02:21 PM
My new work area in the garage, was very needed. Dont know how Ive been able to survive without it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120717_112008.jpg

xjdesertfox
07-18-2012, 09:51 PM
Well, I picked up some goodies today!

700/400CS w/ helpers
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576087_10151114963652284_1952016604_n.jpg

One step colder plugs, OEM thermostat, OEM set of alignment bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120718_131608.jpg

so sexy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120718_133327.jpg

I wrapped up the coilovers so I dont screw up the threads on the aluminum housing during install.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557299_10151115034272284_138846479_n.jpg

Workin like a filipino, squatting down.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/380628_475526172458683_1532565461_n.jpg

Oh hey look the adjusters match my valve cover!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/dyen2live1137/IMG_20120718_163318.jpg

I<3flippyheadlights
07-18-2012, 10:05 PM
Damn those are sexy. How do they feel?


(now I know why you bought those, to match your VC)

AHHthatsJDMyo
07-18-2012, 10:15 PM
sweet build. love to hear how those shocks/springs work out for ya.

xjdesertfox
07-18-2012, 10:58 PM
I've only got the fronts in right now. Finishing up the install tomorrow.

Yes, xidas and stance were the only shocks that matched ;)

xjdesertfox
07-20-2012, 01:28 AM
So, I finished the install this morning about 10am.

The miata has to be the EASIEST car to change coilovers on that i've ever done. For those of you who like the long bolt method...

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2011/103/8/4/yao_ming_meme_new_version_hd_by_guillersevilla-d3dwein.png

San diego method > Long bolt method. For those of you who arent familiar with the san diego method, let me break it down for you:

1) Remove wheels
2) Remove endlink bolt
3) Remove coilover lower bolt
4) remove balljoint bolt
5) remove inner ball joint bolt
6) Slide complete coilover assembly out

It took me about 15 mins to do the first side, then about 7 minutes to do the driver side. The rear was another ridiculously easy swap. 3 bolts and youre done.

So, on to the xidas...

First impressions:
The shocks are built and packaged exceptionally well. It feels solid in your hands, and everything feels extremely high quality. The detent used on the adjuster is awesome and gives a positive click for every single turn of the dial.

Out of the box settings:
Not sure if 949 has a height that they set them all to, but DAMN my shit was dumped upon initial install. I had to raise everything a couple times to get it to a reasonable "street" height suspension.

Comfort:
These shocks are not built for the purpose of comfort. But they blew me away with the level of comfort they provide, even with my stiff rates. I not too sure how else to explain it, other than its amazing. The most comfortable shocks I've been on in a lowered car, with stiff rates.

I havnt been able to test out performance yet, I've only been driving around the local mountain roads. The only way I can describe the feel of cornering with xidas is "smooth." The biggest thing I wanted was a suspension system which is valved in such a way that it would not be upset by bumps mid turn. And that is exactly what the xidas deliver. Im 100% satisfied right now. It will be a ton of tuning to dial in the suspension.

VagaXt
07-21-2012, 03:48 PM
Out of box settings: No, they are not set up as they are packaged. The springs are barely snug for packaging/shipping so the springs won't move and hit the damper shafts in transport and for you to easily initially move your perches to your preferred ride height.

Comfort: I had a brief discussion about this when talking about proper sizing of the damper. There is a misunderstanding of lowering your car and/or having stiffer spring rates equal losing ride comfort. Part of it is true, it is mainly due to not having enough damper travel and/or enough spring rate to keep off the bumpstops. That is what you are feeling, staying off the bumpstop, which means low ride height and gaining ride comfort.

I am glad you are enjoying your new setup.

xjdesertfox
07-21-2012, 04:45 PM
Sonny I had to raise my rears up about an inch, so the springs are quite preloaded in the rear. Would I be better off taking it apart and putting those spacers in?

VagaXt
07-22-2012, 02:23 AM
Sonny I had to raise my rears up about an inch, so the springs are quite preloaded in the rear. Would I be better off taking it apart and putting those spacers in?

Yes, the extra bushings in the kit are specifically for raising the car. The bushings do so by moving the tophat up the damper's shaft, which if you move the spring perch up to have the same preload as you did before, you effectively lengthened the damper body by the thickness of the bushing.

The only downside now is that you lose damper travel by the thickness of the bushing you installed, given the same preload as before.

xjdesertfox
07-22-2012, 04:31 AM
Heres another question, Why does it look like theres a penis coming out of your abdomen in your avatar? =P

VagaXt
07-22-2012, 04:44 PM
Heres another question, Why does it look like theres a penis coming out of your abdomen in your avatar? =P

Haha, I don't know, but it is just the waist strap for the driving suit.

xjdesertfox
07-29-2012, 12:47 PM
So, a few updates.

I replaced my front upper control arms because one of my ball joints was busted. Got some low mileage OEM arms from panic motorsports.

I've been trying to dial in my suspension, and I think I finally got the front tuned in to where it wants to be...or at least close. I took almost all the pre-load out of my front coilovers and dropped the car in the front to about 3.5-3.75" at the pinch weld. Rolled and pulled the shit out of my fenders while I was at it. The car rides much better at this height than it did .50-.75" higher.

The rear I need to put in the little urethane spacers so I can keep my height but take the pre-load out.

xjdesertfox
08-07-2012, 03:11 PM
So I detailed this car for the first time since I got it. My porter cable raped it.

Teaser.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391251_10151157151522284_948061793_n.jpg

xjdesertfox
08-18-2012, 01:14 PM
Old battery vs new battery on left

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20120817_151554.jpg

xjdesertfox
10-26-2012, 12:37 PM
So, long time no update!

Lots has happened. And im back into the swing of things even though i've hit a few snags.

Problem: My stock rear endlinks were begging for mercy on rough roads and driveways, the click/rattle was driving me nuts.

Solution: MSM 14mm rear bar w/ 949 links and PU frame bushings.

(yes i know i need to swap the spacer over one spot to make the link more vertical)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121011_195843.jpg

Problem: Getting tired of my old exhaust, wanted the car louder and wanted the exhaust to flow better.

Solution: Ordered an enthuza XR system, just waiting on it. It supposedly was shipped out yesterday. Also got this cat.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121026_100254.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121026_100301.jpg

Problem: 2 days after ordering my enthuza and spending a butt load of money on it. I blew out my 5 speed trans. The car can still move, but with a pile of marbles bouncing around the housing sound. 5th and 3rd gear are gone.

Solution: 6 speed + FM happy meal + 5xracing clutch line + Miataroadster short shifter. The trans i picked up is a JDM unit, no vin to check it on. But supposedly has 28,000km on it.
(shit pic of trans)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121026_100006.jpg

My last trans blew while running 1qt mt-90 1 qt mtl, so this time i'm gonna run amsoil in it.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121025_203316.jpg

Still waiting on parts to flow in for the trans swap. I'm trying to figure out where i can get seals for the trans, because they dont look like the ones I have at work. Hoping to get the car back on the road within a couple weeks.

xjdesertfox
11-09-2012, 01:47 AM
Worked on my 6 speed swap a little tonight. Prepping the trans to go into the car. Got a replacement seal for everything in the trans, So I started working on the trans seals.

Trans on my bench =D
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/665305_10151300243207284_1527122190_o.jpg

While cleaning changing out the trans seals, we did the clutch hydraulics on my buddy's car.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/52617_10151300077452284_1611518905_o.jpg

While working on my buddy's car, UPS showed up and dropped off some flyin miata parts I ordered 3 FUCKING WEEKS AGO. Jeez, every time I order something from FM, I have such a shitty experience.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525520_10151300249317284_1896403933_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/6186_10151300249512284_972690001_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/400280_10151300249607284_1166457331_n.jpg

And today I just ordered my new toy to help out with the swap
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hNgyJz-l-vY/UC5t0Fvui4I/AAAAAAAAACY/c1OZ1sCrTyU/s1600/W7150EU+Brochure-1.jpg
Cant wait to get that thing and rip the trans out with it!

Vincent123
11-09-2012, 05:22 AM
Took out my pass. Airbag, Re-mounted the cover on a hinge to turn it into a glovebox.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/600302_10151054442322284_1940973193_n.jpg

Any pics of the hinged airbag cover? I really want to do something like this for my NB

I<3flippyheadlights
11-09-2012, 12:38 PM
For college build you have some nice shit! I like it that way. I hate when college kids complain that they can't have nice things because college. "I'm slamming it on racelands and getting xxr's, its what I can afford cause I'm a broke college student." Thank you for not being a typical excuse. I'm in college too, I think my car has shaped up nicely.

Anyway, hope the trans goes in nice and all that. Look forward to more updates!

xjdesertfox
11-09-2012, 12:48 PM
For college build you have some nice shit! I like it that way. I hate when college kids complain that they can't have nice things because college. "I'm slamming it on racelands and getting xxr's, its what I can afford cause I'm a broke college student." Thank you for not being a typical excuse. I'm in college too, I think my car has shaped up nicely.

Anyway, hope the trans goes in nice and all that. Look forward to more updates!

I know what you mean, I see it a lot in my car club. That definitely wasnt about to happen here, I like my stuff in the badass flavor ;)

xjdesertfox
11-09-2012, 12:57 PM
Oh yeah, got my enthuza in. This sucker is LOUD.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/485012_10151300249667284_1894386121_n.jpg

Tkblazer
11-10-2012, 01:26 AM
I spy a Kona Cowan

xjdesertfox
11-10-2012, 01:58 AM
Good eye! I need to stop neglecting her. Her Juicy hydros took a shit so I have mech brakes on her right now.

xjdesertfox
11-16-2012, 01:07 PM
Ripped out my 5 speed and clutch to put in my fm happy meal and 6 speed.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121115_194926.jpg

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121115_194848.jpg

treeafodo
11-16-2012, 03:10 PM
On jack stands too. Have you driven it yet?

xjdesertfox
11-16-2012, 03:45 PM
Its still up in the air, I expect to be done by the end of the weekend.

Used my FM rear main installer to press in the new RMS.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121116_115921.jpg

The newly installed OEM mazda RMS.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121116_120621.jpg

Used some brand new flywheel bolts
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121116_120818.jpg

And Bolted on my new flywheel
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121116_121912.jpg

Then I noticed I didnt press in my pilot bearing. >_< and had to take it off and reinstall.





I dont know what everybody bitches about swapping a trans on jack stands. I havnt hit a single hiccup yet, everything has ripped right off with my impact...I suppose the alignment when I install the new trans might be difficult, but it wasnt bad at all. I dont have a trans jack either...

psulja
11-16-2012, 05:59 PM
For college build you have some nice shit! I like it that way. I hate when college kids complain that they can't have nice things because college. "I'm slamming it on racelands and getting xxr's, its what I can afford cause I'm a broke college student." Thank you for not being a typical excuse. I'm in college too, I think my car has shaped up nicely.

Anyway, hope the trans goes in nice and all that. Look forward to more updates!

Hey, I'm in University and have XXR's, don't hate! lol....

Nice work on the clutch job, glad to see I'm not that only one that has to do all kinds of work on just jack stands lol.. Who needs a hoist anyways? A good impact gun is still on my WTB list though.

cyotani
11-16-2012, 06:17 PM
I find it easier to just pull the whole motor when doing a clutch. But thats mainly because I've done at least 8 motor swap so me and my buddy got the process down to half a day.

xjdesertfox
11-16-2012, 07:47 PM
I wish i had time in the day to work on it continuously, im working 42 hours this week and am only working on it 2-3 hours a day. Tomorrow I should have about 3 hours. hopefully that will be enough time to button it all up.

xjdesertfox
11-17-2012, 02:56 AM
Painted my driveshaft at work because i was bored.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121116_210709.jpg

LOL
11-17-2012, 09:10 PM
Is that the new IR cordless impact? How do you like it?

xjdesertfox
11-18-2012, 01:45 AM
Nothing has stopped it. I've already used it for the knuckles on my buddy's dodge diesel. Ripped them right off. For the trans swapped, I've used it on EVERYTHING. And after today (completing the trans swap) I'm still on the FIRST battery, and the battery still has 75% remaining according to the little battery meter.

I demo'd the snap on CT7850 before i bought the IR gun, and the IR gun is the winner.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121113_095132.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121113_095157.jpg

So back to the build:

Today I put the trans in, for those of you following along there are some things you need to swap onto the 6 speed to get it onto an NA.

1)
Cut the connector with 2 wires going into it off of the 6 speed. The connector on the right in the picture:
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121026_095957.jpg

2) Cut these connectors off the 5 speed.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_223651.jpg

3) Take the 5 speed connectors, and attach them to the 6 speed.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_092308.jpg

Voila.

For the speedo(Note, this method is not accurate. I'm going from an electronic speedo gear for a 6spd/3.9 combo, to putting in a gear driven unit from a 5spd/4.1 combo):
1) Take the electronic speedo gear out of your 6 speed.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_223618.jpg

2) Remove the gear driven unit from your 5 speed, and install into your 6 speed.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_092451.jpg

Voila! Working speedo(albeit off, it works.)

So then I hooked up my TOB, clutch fork, new grease on everything.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_092323.jpg

THEN I THREW THAT BITCH IN THERE!

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_222355.jpg

WOOOOOOT.

Then I ripped off my old clutch line (non extended)
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_094217.jpg

And hooked up my slave to my new 5xracing line, then I fished the slave down to the trans and bolted it up.
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121117_094123.jpg

I<3flippyheadlights
11-18-2012, 01:27 PM
Looking sexy man! You make me want an impact gun :P

xjdesertfox
11-20-2012, 02:09 AM
Video of my exhaust + showing how short the gearing is with 6 speed + 4.1

75 mph = 4.5K rpms.

Watch this with headphones or good speakers, it was taken with an iphone5 so its not the greatest quality.


http://youtu.be/ALc7RggDdbc

xjdesertfox
12-02-2012, 03:30 AM
Took off my OEM trunk with Rpkg lip, Put on a rattlecanned regular trunk. Not sure how I feel about it yet.

For some reason the paint i'm using refuses to come out to a gloss finish. I'm gonna try spraying it one more time then if it doesnt work vinyl wrap it is!

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121125_180001.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121129_091925.jpg

The car has been running good. I've got about 400 miles on the car since the trans swap. The FM LWFW does indeed make quite a bit of noise, it scared me at first.

I've taken a step back, and thought about "whats next?" Well, drive it of course!

But heres how i plan the next year to go...hopefully.

3.9 Torsen.
Convert my 4 point -> 6 point bar with floor mounted cobra suzuka's.
Megasquirt 2 or 3.
MR short shifter
Motor build: TSE built motor or a local machine shop with 9:1 forged pistons and SCAT rods.
Turbo: 2860R or 2871R

Goal? 300+ HP.

maharaj
12-02-2012, 08:39 AM
If you are using a rattle can to paint the deck lid make sure that you use a scotch pad on it and then some 1500 grit paper to smooth it out. After doing that use some degreaser, like Acrysol or something along those lines. After degreasing go ahead and spray with your base coat but I think the step you might have been missing is using a good clear. There is a two stage clear available at any decent paint shop that has to be activated at the bottom of the can so the hardener can mix with the paint. Hope this helps.

xjdesertfox
12-02-2012, 03:12 PM
If you are using a rattle can to paint the deck lid make sure that you use a scotch pad on it and then some 1500 grit paper to smooth it out. After doing that use some degreaser, like Acrysol or something along those lines. After degreasing go ahead and spray with your base coat but I think the step you might have been missing is using a good clear. There is a two stage clear available at any decent paint shop that has to be activated at the bottom of the can so the hardener can mix with the paint. Hope this helps.

The panel was decked with 800, filler primer was added, then wet sand with 1000. The panel was sprayed with wax & grease remover, then wiped up. Then again with 91% iso alcohol.

The base coat was sprayed, then i let it dry per the can. Then it was sprayed with transtar euro 2 part clear using a gun. The panel was then wetsanded with 1500,2000, and 3000.

Thanks for the tips, i'll try to find some of the two stage clear in a can, the transtar is stuff my buddy had laying around his shop.

xjdesertfox
12-07-2012, 05:15 AM
installed blazer fogs with 4300k morimoto 3five kit. Decent light output.

Car looks like a bat though =P

5820

maharaj
12-07-2012, 07:14 AM
Looks good with the fogs.....now you just need some fangs! :lol:

xjdesertfox
12-14-2012, 02:38 AM
New shift knob. It was sooooo worth the money.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/531930_10151347372492284_2037709886_n.jpg

Feels perfect for my 6 speed.

I had multiple lightweight setups for my 5 speed, the 6 speed i have needs slightly more weight, this is JUSSSSST right. Its a little small for my hands, and it sat a little low, so I put a nut on the shaft first, then I threaded the shift knob on.

xjdesertfox
12-16-2012, 01:51 AM
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/556702_10151350407792284_1175144500_n.jpg

Got a pretty damn good deal on these. Wheels are 100% brand new, one mounted and fitted, the other unboxed and painted.

I dont plan on keeping them green...

I<3flippyheadlights
12-16-2012, 12:40 PM
Thank God that those wheels were spray painted! Good find!

xjdesertfox
12-16-2012, 06:39 PM
Thank God that those wheels were spray painted! Good find!

yeah lol, I guess the guy bought them from emilio and spray painted them before test fitting them to his integra. The wheels hit his knuckles unless he runs a 15mm spacer, and he didnt want to run a spacer. Since he painted them, he couldnt return them. So he sold them to me.

I'm going to use some aircraft stripper and see if they look good bare, if not. I'm gonna paint them a conservative color that hides dust.

Was thinking one of these:

Duplicolor graphite -
http://www.prospectator.com/images/4Runner/4Runner8.jpg

Titanium silver blue -
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ax2ZtbKvL._SS500_.jpg

Satin black -
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/crazynova23/cfdc9e8b.jpg

I<3flippyheadlights
12-16-2012, 06:42 PM
Funny story, I sold my 15x7 6ul's to a guy with an integra. he put spacers on them and it looked great. Go with black or grey, should be fine.

xjdesertfox
12-18-2012, 01:54 AM
Ending up painting them duplicolor engine: "cast iron coat" DE1651

http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/291544_10151353541722284_1031228477_o.jpg

Still need to do the inner barrel, and get the other nt01 unmounted so i can spray that one.

Heyitsryan
12-18-2012, 01:36 PM
That titanium silver blue is actually quite the awesome color. It'a reall similar to Honda's Suzuka Blue, i painted my old VC that same color. Great progress so far man, especially for being on a "budget!"

xjdesertfox
12-18-2012, 02:09 PM
That titanium silver blue is actually quite the awesome color. It'a reall similar to Honda's Suzuka Blue, i painted my old VC that same color. Great progress so far man, especially for being on a "budget!"

Thanks. I work a slightly over minimum wage job, and dont work a ton of hours. So I consider it a budget lol! If it wasnt on a budget the car would be done by now ;)

Heyitsryan
12-18-2012, 04:46 PM
I think half of the fun is waiting it out. I ordered all of my parts for my S2000 all at once ( and although it was sweet to get 20+ boxes all in one week) I got sort of tired, I suppose you can even say it somehow lost it's allure.

It makes it that much more worth it to do it one part at a time imho!

xjdesertfox
12-18-2012, 05:02 PM
In all honesty, I enjoy bargain hunting. And I think thats the most fun part of acquiring parts. My xida's are the only thing on my car I didnt get a deal on.