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View Full Version : The Rotten Banana- Over a decade in the making



Titus
01-14-2012, 12:19 AM
In March 2001 I purchased my '92 Sunburst Miata. It was bone stock, and some would say kind of cute.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1460&d=1326518322

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:23 AM
I loved the little thing, but I had to give it my own touch.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1461&d=1326518457
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1462&d=1326518465
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1463&d=1326518470
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1464&d=1326518477
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1465&d=1326518482
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1466&d=1326518487

ChrisJuliano
01-14-2012, 12:25 AM
Dat antenna!

Like the car though, color is pulled of by a miata better than most cars.

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:31 AM
I was living in California, so I was afraid to touch the engine. That changed in 2004 when work transferred me to Texas.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1467&d=1326518842

Out from under the evil CARB thumb, the car got some power.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1468&d=1326518848
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1469&d=1326518849

I soon found new hangouts,
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1470&d=1326518850
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1471&d=1326518851

And spent a little time at the track.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1472&d=1326518855
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1473&d=1326518858

wannafbody
01-14-2012, 12:36 AM
Very nice

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:37 AM
After a few years, I grew bored with the car, so it went through a little change.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1474&d=1326519256
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1475&d=1326519260
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1476&d=1326519263

The old roll bar moved to it's new garage-mate.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1477&d=1326519267

And it was even left outside one night.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1478&d=1326519271

Agent☣Orange
01-14-2012, 12:40 AM
I don't know if I can take the abuse.

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:47 AM
Then last year during the great Dallas snowstorm of 2011, I got stuck in North Carolina on a business trip. DFW Airport finally let me fly home the Saturday before the Superbowl. I had the Miata sitting at the airport waiting for me so I figured I was screwed. Approaching the airport, I could see cars of all types on the roads, and they seemed fine. I was told that the road crews were doing a great job because of the Superbowl, so I headed out. The first 40 minutes of driving were fine, then I got past the tourist areas.


















































http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1479&d=1326519872
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1480&d=1326519877
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1481&d=1326519881
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1482&d=1326519888
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1483&d=1326519894

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:51 AM
The Damage doesn't look so bad, but it actually added up to over $3000 and it was a fight to keep them from totaling it. I ended up blowing every penny from the insurance company on mail order parts for it's resurrection. It was placed on a trailer, and my Tahoe was packed to its limit with parts. It was towed to Miata Solutions (Forum user Rogue) and the parts were unloaded. Sometime soon I hope to be able to reveal the new and improved Rotten Banana.

Titus
01-14-2012, 12:55 AM
Dat antenna!

Like the car though, color is pulled of by a miata better than most cars.

Hey now... 10 years ago, that antenna was cool! It was a gift from the wife so it had to stay until now. I recently informed her that it was destroyed in the wreck.

iamdallas
01-14-2012, 01:12 AM
I quite like what you've done with your Miata. However, it looks as though you've just got started. :D

Titus
01-14-2012, 01:24 AM
I quite like what you've done with your Miata. However, it looks as though you've just got started. :D
Starting over is more like it! :mrgreen:

Titus
01-14-2012, 01:02 PM
I don't know if I can take the abuse.

LOL :oops:

Titus
01-15-2012, 06:15 PM
I thought I would try to document the mods so far. I am sure I will have to come back several times to add forgotten items...


Jackson Racing M54 Supercharger
Track Dog Racing Intercooler
Custom intake with parts found on the warehouse shelves of TDR
RC440 Injectors
150mm Crank pulley
67.5mm nose pulley
LC-1 Wideband
Old School Racing Beat 4-2-1 Header
Track Dog Header blanket
Racing Beat Sport Connecting Pipe
Racing Beat Power Pulse Dual Muffler
ACT 1.6 Stage 1 Clutch kit
1.8 Torsen diff
PWR Aluminum Radiator
Brakes/Suspension:
1.8 Calipers and rotors
HPS Pads
Old School Flyin Miata springs
KYB AGX shocks
Flyin Miata Sway bars
Moss Front Chassis Brace
Flyin Miata Frame Rails
Harddog M2 Hard Core Hard Top Double Diagonal Rollbar
Polished Dual Hood Lift Kit
Moss Lo Pro Headlights
Drivers side NACA duct headlight lid (unknown origin)
GarageSTAR Side-mount license plate bracket
Hardtop
Moss Rubber Antenna
VooDoo Magnum shift knob
VooDoo E-Brake handle
Redline leather shift boot
Redline leather E-Brake boot
Polished aluminum door sills
DDM Works stainless steel radio surround
Westach A/F Gauge
Westach Boost Gauge
Nakamichi CD-45z headunit
Soundstream D60 II
Vifa Coaxial 6.5s
Soundstream SA120 (hooked to nothing at the moment)

ChrisJuliano
01-15-2012, 06:21 PM
How did the paint matching go with your color? I dont know if its the color or the painter, but it seems like every person with a yellow car that has gotten something painted it NEVER matches. Both of my friends with 20th anniversary edition mk4 gti's (maybe its 25th idk..) have gotten hit and the color of painted area is so far off its ridiculous.

Titus
01-15-2012, 06:59 PM
How did the paint matching go with your color? I dont know if its the color or the painter, but it seems like every person with a yellow car that has gotten something painted it NEVER matches. Both of my friends with 20th anniversary edition mk4 gti's (maybe its 25th idk..) have gotten hit and the color of painted area is so far off its ridiculous.

It is not out of the paint booth yet, but it won't be an issue... We ended up modifying pretty much every body panel on the car so it is getting a complete repaint. Once it is back in my hands, I will do a photo shoot and document all of the latest modifications.

ChrisJuliano
01-15-2012, 07:02 PM
Awesome it better be staying yellow!

I<3flippyheadlights
01-15-2012, 07:05 PM
That's such a pretty car... *drools*

XCLR8TN
01-15-2012, 09:07 PM
What exactly did you hit?

Looked good on the Rotas!

Titus
01-15-2012, 09:35 PM
What exactly did you hit?

Looked good on the Rotas!

I was driving along at about 35 mph (in what can be seen in the background of picture as pretty clear freeway). As I went under an overpass, the car hit ice and just started sliding. The car did just shy of a 180, slid up an embankment on the right side of the underpass, and then hit the textured concrete retaining wall (just out of range to the right in picture). The front driver-side fender made contact first. The driver-side suspension fully unloaded, allowing the wheels to then take the brunt of the secondary impact. In fact, there was damage to the front fender the the point of impact, and then to the rear fender as it bounced back off the wall, but not a scratch on the door or anywhere else between the wheels. In the end, the insurance estimate called for repaint of front bumper, replace and repaint front fender, repair and repaint rear fender, repaint rear bumper, repair 1 wheel, and replace 1 wheel, 1 tire, 1 tie rod, 2 control arms, and rear sub frame. As for me, I ended up with a big knot on the side of my head when it hit the door window during the impact.



http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1479&d=1326519872

WASABI
01-16-2012, 05:41 AM
...the insurance estimate called for repaint of front bumper, replace and repaint front fender, repair and repaint rear fender, repaint rear bumper, repair 1 wheel, and replace 1 wheel, 1 tire, 1 tie rod, 2 control arms, and rear sub frame.

TITus, nice car! To bad about the accident, but glad you, AND your hardtop are OK. Sounds like your insurance company will do right by you. These yellow NA are a rare bird, make sure you keep us updated... with pictures of the repair in process. Good luck.

-Jim

Titus
01-16-2012, 10:38 AM
TITus, nice car! To bad about the accident, but glad you, AND your hardtop are OK. Sounds like your insurance company will do right by you. These yellow NA are a rare bird, make sure you keep us updated... with pictures of the repair in process. Good luck.

-Jim
Thanks WASABI. It was really a blessing in disguise. I had talked about long term plans for body mods with my wife in the past, but I figured she wasn't paying attention. After the insurance numbers came in and we sat down to talk through them, She says to me "So the insurance company is going to pay for a bunch of paint and body work now, and then you are going to re-do a bunch of that work again in a few years? Why don't you just bite the bullet and do EVERYTHING you want to do to the body now?" Add that to the list of why I have been married to this wonderful woman for nearly 18 years!

I have made a few trips out to see the progress of the car and did take some pictures, and I believe Rogue has taken a bunch more as he works on it, but I am trying to keep them off of the forums until it is done. I like surprises. :wink:

jux
01-16-2012, 01:35 PM
Should we be looking for another case of pink primer and temporary Hello Kitty stickers? heheheh

adamvanxxx
01-16-2012, 01:51 PM
I really want a sunburst. I love the yellow so much.

Great car you have there.

Titus
01-16-2012, 02:01 PM
Should we be looking for another case of pink primer and temporary Hello Kitty stickers? heheheh
Lol... It was actually in black primer last time I saw it, as I guess that was what he had on hand and it worked well for block standing. It looked great... Very mean. I was tempted to tell him it was perfect as is and I was driving it home. :-)

I really want a sunburst. I love the yellow so much.

Great car you have there.
Thanks!

jux
01-16-2012, 06:19 PM
Well, I'm pretty excited to see your car once it's all finished up. I do hope you'll let some of us know when you'll have it out & about. :)

Titus
01-16-2012, 08:25 PM
Well, I'm pretty excited to see your car once it's all finished up. I do hope you'll let some of us know when you'll have it out & about. :)
Once I get the car back, I need to get a new windshield installed, get it inspected, and it will be getting some R2-Limited goodness. Depending on timing, I may debut it at Cars and Coffee. If I get it all done the week after a C&C, I won't be able to keep it under wraps for a month so it will come out to a Wed night meet. I also will be looking for someone local that is good with a camera to shoot it.

Zed CZ
01-17-2012, 03:58 AM
Wow, firstly I'm sorry for your car, that had to hurt, but I'm looking forward the ressurection. Sunburst yellow looks really nice and I like the yellow black combo. I'm telling myself this will be my goal if having sunburst yellow NA.
In for updates :)

Titus
01-17-2012, 08:11 AM
I thought I would try to document the mods so far. I am sure I will have to come back several times to add forgotten items...


Jackson Racing M54 Supercharger
Track Dog Racing Intercooler
Custom intake with parts found on the warehouse shelves of TDR
RC440 Injectors
LINK ECU
150mm Crank pulley
67.5mm nose pulley
LC-1 Wideband
Old School Racing Beat 4-2-1 Header
Track Dog Header blanket
Racing Beat Sport Connecting Pipe
Racing Beat Power Pulse Dual Muffler
ACT 1.6 Stage 1 Clutch kit
1.8 Torsen diff
PWR Aluminum Radiator
Brakes/Suspension:
1.8 Calipers and rotors
HPS Pads
Old School Flyin Miata springs
KYB AGX shocks
Flyin Miata Sway bars
Moss Front Chassis Brace
Flyin Miata Frame Rails
Harddog M2 Hard Core Hard Top Double Diagonal Rollbar
Polished Dual Hood Lift Kit
Moss Lo Pro Headlights
Drivers side NACA duct headlight lid (unknown origin)
GarageSTAR Side-mount license plate bracket
Hardtop
Moss Rubber Antenna
VooDoo Magnum shift knob
VooDoo E-Brake handle
Redline leather shift boot
Redline leather E-Brake boot
Polished aluminum door sills
Aerodramatics Needle caps
DDM Works stainless steel radio surround
Westach A/F Gauge
Westach Boost Gauge
Nakamichi CD-45z headunit
Soundstream D60 II
Vifa Coaxial 6.5s
Soundstream SA120 (hooked to nothing at the moment)


Added a couple items I realized were left off.

The Driver
01-17-2012, 09:41 AM
I was driving along at about 35 mph (in what can be seen in the background of picture as pretty clear freeway). As I went under an overpass, the car hit ice and just started sliding. The car did just shy of a 180, slid up an embankment on the right side of the underpass, and then hit the textured concrete retaining wall (just out of range to the right in picture). The front driver-side fender made contact first. The driver-side suspension fully unloaded, allowing the wheels to then take the brunt of the secondary impact. In fact, there was damage to the front fender the the point of impact, and then to the rear fender as it bounced back off the wall, but not a scratch on the door or anywhere else between the wheels. In the end, the insurance estimate called for repaint of front bumper, replace and repaint front fender, repair and repaint rear fender, repaint rear bumper, repair 1 wheel, and replace 1 wheel, 1 tire, 1 tie rod, 2 control arms, and rear sub frame. As for me, I ended up with a big knot on the side of my head when it hit the door window during the impact.



http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1479&d=1326519872


Sorry about your car! I hit some "black ice" last week on my way to Denver, that shiz is no joke!

Love the car, good luck!

Benbrg
01-17-2012, 09:50 AM
Good luck, Sunburst is a great color!

Titus
01-17-2012, 11:48 AM
Found a picture of current headunit and gauges.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1527&d=1326818761

Titus
01-27-2012, 04:19 PM
R2-Limited goodness...

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1950&d=1327699112

Phatmiata
01-27-2012, 10:59 PM
such a pretty yellow Miata!! Love it!

Titus
01-27-2012, 11:45 PM
such a pretty yellow Miata!! Love it!
Thanks Phatmiata!

Canaille
01-29-2012, 02:46 PM
Found a picture of current headunit and gauges.
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1527&d=1326818761

Hi,

What company make this AFR guage ? I have an innovate one but looking for a retro looking one.
Thanks!

fastnfurious7
01-29-2012, 04:03 PM
Nakamichi Yum! I have a Clarion DRX 9255 in mine...I'm sure you know what that is! Your car is very nice. Look forward to seeing it all back together. Glad you are okay from the mishap.

Titus
01-29-2012, 04:20 PM
Hi,

What company make this AFR guage ? I have an innovate one but looking for a retro looking one.
Thanks!
Its a Westach from Track Dog Racing.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/website/gauges/gauges_types.htm

Titus
01-29-2012, 04:28 PM
Nakamichi Yum! I have a Clarion DRX 9255 in mine...I'm sure you know what that is! Your car is very nice. Look forward to seeing it all back together. Glad you are okay from the mishap.

Nice... I wanted something that provided excellent sound quality with a classic minimalist look. The DRX9255 was on my list of possibilities but when I came across this Nakamichi CD-45z for under $200, I knew it was meant to be.

HellaRareYellow
01-29-2012, 05:22 PM
Hello twin brother! I must say I'm sorry to see that happen to one of my own kin. But I'm glad its getting the red carpet treatment to perfection again. I hope it turns out great and just the way you wanted. I'm sure it will look top notch! I'm not sure I could stomache putting mine into a wall. It would have broken my heart.

In for final pictures!

Titus
01-29-2012, 05:45 PM
Hello twin brother! I must say I'm sorry to see that happen to one of my own kin. But I'm glad its getting the red carpet treatment to perfection again. I hope it turns out great and just the way you wanted. I'm sure it will look top notch! I'm not sure I could stomache putting mine into a wall. It would have broken my heart.

In for final pictures!
Love your car... one of the best of the HZ breed. Once you see the final pictures, you will fully understand why I say the accident was a blessing in disguise.

HellaRareYellow
01-29-2012, 05:49 PM
The picture of your car on the grass with the HDDD and black wheels was what made me look for a Sunburst. Yours and underdog are the inspiration to my build.

Titus
01-29-2012, 05:58 PM
The picture of your car on the grass with the HDDD and black wheels was what made me look for a Sunburst. Yours and underdog are the inspiration to my build.

Wow... thanks for the compliment!

Sharpie
01-29-2012, 08:07 PM
Great build thread Todd. (I actually own the MPV previously owned by him and his wife).

I've seen 5 miatas painted by Stevan (Rogue) all beautiful and preview pics of this car. This Sunburst will be EPIC. I can't wait! and I don't get to drive it.

Titus
01-29-2012, 08:24 PM
Great build thread Todd. (I actually own the MPV previously owned by him and his wife).

I've seen 5 miatas painted by Stevan (Rogue) all beautiful and preview pics of this car. This Sunburst will be EPIC. I can't wait! and I don't get to drive it.
Thanks Chris! Just for you, I have the picture snapped 5 minutes after this one...

I was living in California, so I was afraid to touch the engine. That changed in 2004 when work transferred me to Texas.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1467&d=1326518842

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1966&d=1327886576

Sharpie
02-01-2012, 08:46 PM
I only see a red x. Tried on multiple computers. ???

Titus
02-01-2012, 10:48 PM
I only see a red x. Tried on multiple computers. ???
Not sure what happened to it...
2050

Titus
02-01-2012, 10:50 PM
R2-Limited goodness...

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1950&d=1327699112
Strange.. this one was gone too.

2051

Titus
02-03-2012, 09:43 AM
I met up with Rogue and Driftdevil last night for beers at The Twisted Kilt. Rogue had a picture of my front bumper in yellow and said the car was rolling in to the paint booth for some color on Saturday. I was pretty excited to say the least. I am going on a business trip next week so hopefully that will keep me distracted.

Sharpie
02-03-2012, 02:05 PM
Sure wish my phone had rang. I'd have been there.

Titus
02-03-2012, 02:16 PM
Sure wish my phone had rang. I'd have been there.
We end up getting together about twice a month these days, now at 8:30 Thursday nights. I will tell Jamie to start including you on the text message.

Buy My Stuff
02-03-2012, 02:42 PM
In for final pics.

Titus
03-24-2012, 09:09 AM
Home stretch. Picked up my door handles from the powder coater. I got the paint code from harddog used on my Hardcore and had them done to match.

2710

jux
03-24-2012, 03:20 PM
Which kilt do you guys go to?

Titus
03-24-2012, 04:20 PM
Which kilt do you guys go to?

Lewisville

Titus
04-01-2012, 11:46 PM
I brought the Rotten Banana home Friday night with fresh paint and body work completed. I installed a Momo Prototipo w/ Works Bell hub and searched for what sounded like a brake issue on Saturday. This morning I discovered that the sound under brake was actually a bad axle. I spent a good part of the day trying to source an axle but had no luck. It appears that none of the parts stores can locate a remand one anywhere in the country, and the computers would not even let them order one. I found a junk yard with one, but it is 90 minutes away and closes at 5:30 every day, so no chance of getting there after work. I also pulled the windshield wiper arms and cleaned them up with soap and water and a scotch pad. They will get a fresh coat of paint tomorrow. I will also be calling a glass shop in the morning to have them come out and install a new windshield. Lots more to do this week. If everything gets done, the car will make it's first public appearance at Cars and Coffee next Saturday.

Titus
04-03-2012, 08:41 PM
Pics of the new Momo and door handles installed, along with a preview pic that I call perspective.

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2913

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2912

http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2915







2915

Stoly
04-03-2012, 08:49 PM
Whoa. Looking really good, Titus!

psulja
04-03-2012, 08:55 PM
Do you have some pictures from farther away of the door handles? I've been thinking of doing that to my Mariner, looks great!

WASABI
04-03-2012, 09:39 PM
WHAT A TEASE!!!! I like where this is going! I'm in for the final reveal.

-Jim

Titus
04-03-2012, 09:49 PM
Thanks guys... I'll post full pics after cars and coffee this weekend.

psulja
04-03-2012, 09:51 PM
Such a tease lol, looking forward to seeing pics this weekend!

Titus
04-03-2012, 10:04 PM
Such a tease lol, looking forward to seeing pics this weekend!
I figure it is the only way to get the local Miata guys out of bed and down to Cars and Coffee at 7am on a Saturday. :mrgreen:

For those interested in doing their door handles, I had mine Powdercoated to match the rollbar, with the following information from Harddog:

Hi Todd,

Our roll bars are coated with Cardinal Industrial Finishes. Here are the specs.

A-4102-BK08 / SEMI GLOSS BLACK

Hope this helps.

Regards
Martha
Bethania Garage Inc / Hard Dog Fabrication

My powdercoater looked it up and found that the code they gave me had been superseded by "T002-BK08, Black #27038, 20% Gloss" so that is what he used.

Agent☣Orange
04-03-2012, 10:34 PM
I love yellow and black. I've been painting a lot of my silver stuff black lately.

Titus
04-07-2012, 12:58 PM
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6349/cc01i.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7614/cc02.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8964/cc03.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2428/cc04c.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4011/cc05.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/92/cc06n.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8938/cc07.jpg
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6097/cc08.jpg
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/3903/cc09p.jpg

jux
04-07-2012, 01:07 PM
niiiiiiice!!

WASABI
04-07-2012, 01:09 PM
That's freakin' gorgeous! WOW!!! One mean banana.

Vash
04-07-2012, 02:04 PM
I saw her today while talking to Mr. MR2, beautiful car she was! The body style honestly reminds me greatly of Porsche 964.

Titus
04-07-2012, 07:30 PM
Thanks everyone.!
Vash... From the beginning I have talked to Rogue about wanting it to be reminiscent of an 80's 911. You are the second person today that caught that vibe. One of my friends was staring at the car today and commented that it almost look like 911 rear qtrs had been grafted on. :D

morr
04-07-2012, 07:50 PM
Wow! That turned out amazing :shock:

Titus
04-07-2012, 08:43 PM
I guess I should try and list the latest mods to the car...

AWR full fender wide body (with countless hours by Rogue to make it look good)
Racing Beat Front Bumper
Racing Beat Rear Bumper
Belt-line delete by Rogue
Side-marker delete by Rogue
Rouge Custom Hood bulge
Rouge Custom spoiler integrated into stock trunk
Rogue Custom taillight treatment
Badge Delete
Full repaint by Rogue, HZ (Sunburst/Vivid Yellow) + clear coat
R2-Limited stripe in Satin black and wheel caps
Ebay turn-signals
Track Dog racing Splitter
XXR 002 15x9 +0
Hankook RS3 225/45-15

adamvanxxx
04-07-2012, 09:06 PM
Those tail lights look awesome.

I think Rouge needs to borrow my car.

psulja
04-07-2012, 11:42 PM
That looks amazing! Definitely worth the wait

Sarah
04-08-2012, 05:58 AM
That looks awesome, have you perhaps thought about getting the rear hardtop catches and plates done in black like your door handles?

Titus
04-08-2012, 06:15 AM
That looks awesome, have you perhaps thought about getting the rear hardtop catches and plates done in black like your door handles?

Yep... They are among many parts that will go to the powder coater.

Vegard
04-08-2012, 09:24 AM
Woooooooah, that looks damn good! Congratulations!

Sharpie
04-08-2012, 12:56 PM
Looks great Todd. Glad I got to see it, sorry I missed cars and coffee. Post #71 has a couple of Rouge that need to be changed to Rogue. ;-)

afc2112
04-08-2012, 04:13 PM
As a former 911 owner, I disagree with the 964 comparison. You need a fastback for that. :)

moerdogg
04-08-2012, 06:13 PM
Dang, nice work! Those flares make the car look mean.

The Platypus
04-08-2012, 06:37 PM
Dammmmnnnn. Love the fenders so much. So badass.

diabeetus
04-09-2012, 02:47 PM
WAAAAAAAA?!?! bad ass!!

kung fu jesus
04-09-2012, 03:21 PM
Stevan did a fantastic job on those AWR panels.

I love the results. Not fond of the wheels, though, sorry.

Titus
04-09-2012, 04:09 PM
Stevan did a fantastic job on those AWR panels.

I love the results. Not fond of the wheels, though, sorry.

Thanks...

Frankly, the XXRs meet the needs, and there was nothing else out there that does short of custom ordered Watanabes that would cost 10x as much and take forever to get. I was a lot more unhappy with them before I got the car back. At one point I even got very close to importing a set of THESE (http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/uploads/garage_images/image_url-305-1296667550.jpg) Compomotive ML1590s, but then I learned that they weigh almost 24lbs a piece (compared to about 18.5 lbs for the XXRs I already had). Once I had the car, I realized that the XXRs were fine and I could concentrate on other aspects of the car and wait a few years before ordering some Wats.

kung fu jesus
04-09-2012, 04:22 PM
Understood. Sometimes compromises have to be made. It is still a fantastic looking vehicle. Hoping to see Stevan sometime soon.

diabeetus
04-09-2012, 04:36 PM
how was that hood done? that looks sick!

Titus
04-09-2012, 05:03 PM
how was that hood done? that looks sick!

That is Stevan's Power Bulge. There a few other cars with it, including his own. He has a mold he made for it that allows him to make the fiberglass bulge and then it is bonded to the factory hood. The trunk was done in a similar fashion, but I am the only one with one so far.

kung fu jesus
04-09-2012, 06:21 PM
I saw the first hood he did at Deal's Gap back in '03(?). It was on his LE that he also painted black suede flame onto. The man has a gift.

kung fu jesus
04-09-2012, 06:23 PM
BTW, is that mica translucent paint on the tailights?!

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4011/cc05.jpg

Vash
04-09-2012, 06:42 PM
I wanted to know too, My tail lights can really use a good polish and reseal.

Titus
04-09-2012, 08:02 PM
The taillights were first sprayed with House of Color Candy Brandy Wine to cover the amber and darken the lights, then they were sprayed with a yellow pearl that I believe was a classic Cadillac color... I could not even tell the pearl was there until I saw the car in the sun.

kung fu jesus
04-09-2012, 08:03 PM
That is a beautiful custom touch!

Phatmiata
04-09-2012, 10:32 PM
This is one bad ass banana !!! WOW!!

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6349/cc01i.jpg

diabeetus
04-10-2012, 01:15 AM
http://mazdaroadster.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1460&d=1326518322

for comparison.

WOW

JDMClassic
04-10-2012, 10:31 AM
Dang! Nice Todd!! Guess I havnt been around for a while.. Yall still do Kellers on Wed nights?

psulja
04-10-2012, 10:43 AM
for comparison.

WOW

Pfsht, the before is so much better than now! :ninja:

Ktdubya
04-12-2012, 04:27 PM
The car looked great! I was very disappointed when I arrived at the lot at 0710 and waited in the line to get in till and had to end up parking in the spectators lot. sad times. glad to see the car finished though!

roy obanion
10-25-2012, 07:54 AM
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2428/cc04c.jpg


Your car looks amazing, great job!

wannafbody
10-25-2012, 08:16 AM
GV rear panel for even more win

treeafodo
10-25-2012, 08:48 AM
GV rear panel for even more win

Agreed! The before and now pictures are so cool to see.

Titus
10-25-2012, 11:04 AM
Thanks guys... I strongly considered a GV panel, but too many of my friends had it and I wanted to look a little different. I was exploring different options when my paint guy surprised me with the refinished stock lights. (Polished, then a coat of House of Color Candy Brandy Wine and a coat of yellow pearl). I love the way they look, especially when the sun hits them.

Martin
10-25-2012, 11:28 AM
Rogue does really nice work. I'd love to take my car to him for a refresh.

Titus
10-25-2012, 04:52 PM
Rogue does really nice work.
+ 11 Billion.

artcentermiata
10-27-2012, 04:03 AM
Im not sure if i commented on this thread yet... But, im in love with this fat yellow miata! those blister fenders work SO well with that color!

I love it!

91BRGLE
10-27-2012, 07:38 AM
WOW thats the best wide body I've seen! Clean and Mean.

Titus
10-27-2012, 07:45 AM
Thanks!

roy obanion
10-27-2012, 08:20 AM
Thanks guys... I strongly considered a GV panel, but too many of my friends had it and I wanted to look a little different. I was exploring different options when my paint guy surprised me with the refinished stock lights. (Polished, then a coat of House of Color Candy Brandy Wine and a coat of yellow pearl). I love the way they look, especially when the sun hits them.


http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4011/cc05.jpg



I want to see these in person, I bet the photos do not do them justice. :)

Sharpie
07-15-2013, 04:15 PM
How ya' been Todd? It's been awhile. I heard you've been playing with aquariums. Pics, dude.

Dandy
07-15-2013, 05:44 PM
Wow! Thanks for resurrecting this thread Sharpie. I hadn't seen this before. That is one awesome banana!

atank
07-15-2013, 07:42 PM
Oh man I missed it too, I really love this WB Roadster!!

Titus
07-16-2013, 09:21 AM
How ya' been Todd? It's been awhile. I heard you've been playing with aquariums. Pics, dude.
Doing good. The Banana sadly has not been out of the garage in about a year. I was having some bad intermittent squealing noise out of the drivers side of the engine that we could not identify. I let it sit for a while, because it was hot, I was frustrated with working on it, and my Saltwater aquarium addiction was eating up all my time and money. I tend to be the type of person that gets totally wrapped up in one thing and everything else gets neglected.

In addition to the squeal, the AC had stopped working, and the PS was leaking, so when my tax return came in, I ordered a new rack, new PS pump, new AC compressor, and a supercharger rebuild kit. Figured I would replace everything on the drivers side of the motor and fix all the issues at once. Jamie helped me remove everything one day, then it got hot and I got busy again. Since it cooled down a little the last few days, we managed to get the new rack installed last night. I am hoping to get a few more new parts bolted on before the week is over. I also need to take the supercharger nose to someone who can press out the old bearings and press in the new ones.

Agent☣Orange
07-16-2013, 09:25 AM
I know exactly what you mean. It can really burn you out sometimes. Good to take a break before it's more hassle than hobby.

Hyper
07-16-2013, 09:31 AM
The car looks great dude, I would say get a set black side mirrors to match the wheels. or upgrade to the 94-97 Power mirrors. they are a nicer design in my point of view

Hyper
07-16-2013, 09:35 AM
you should powder coat the interior parts everything blakc. that car looks great. What aftermarket hood is that??

Titus
07-16-2013, 03:14 PM
Thanks Guys!

I know exactly what you mean. It can really burn you out sometimes. Good to take a break before it's more hassle than hobby.
Yep... that is sort of where I ended up. I have a 20x20 metal shop fully outfitted, lift and all... I used to be out there every evening tinkering unless it was hot out. It seems like overnight I burned out, and now I dread stepping foot in there. I hope the love for tinkering with cars gets rekindled.

you should powder coat the interior parts everything blakc. that car looks great. What aftermarket hood is that??
The intention was to eventually do it with every chrome / shinny piece on the interior and exterior of the car except for the exhaust tips. I am sure it will eventually get done. The hood is a stock hood with a custom fiberglass hump molded on.

wannafbody
07-16-2013, 06:00 PM
Leave the exhaust polished, the polished exhaust is the best looking piece on my car.

Titus
07-16-2013, 06:30 PM
AC Compressor installed. No help and it was hotter than I expected so that is all for this evening. Tomorrow I will install the PS pump.


Leave the exhaust polished, the polished exhaust is the best looking piece on my car.

Yeah, I think my comment came out wrong now that I re-read it... I meant to say that the other stuff will eventually get powder coated, but the exhaust tips will always stay shinny. I want to de-emphasize accessories, but let performance cues stand out.

Hyper
07-16-2013, 08:04 PM
side mirrors? I can post so many cool looking side mirrors for this ride. ... THE BANANA ROADSTER. MY VOTE FOR MOTM!!!

Rogue
07-16-2013, 10:31 PM
MY VOTE FOR MOTM!!!

+1

Lets shoot some pixels of that Nanner.

Titus
07-17-2013, 08:34 AM
side mirrors? I can post so many cool looking side mirrors for this ride. ... THE BANANA ROADSTER. MY VOTE FOR MOTM!!!
I frankly have never been too concerned with the mirrors. The fading bugged me pre-repaint, but since Rogue painted them I am happy with them. I am not a fan of the little mirrors, the various chrome mirrors don't fit with the feel of the car, and I haven't seen anything else that inspires me enough to part with my money.

+1

Lets shoot some pixels of that Nanner.

Now that there is a little spark back (heck I have worked on the car 2 days in a row now... first time I have done that since the car went to your shop over 2 years ago), I am going to push to get her back on the road. As soon as she is, we will set up a shoot, and then maybe it can be submitted for consideration for MOTM.

Phatmiata
07-17-2013, 09:21 AM
love this thread!! this car has just gone from night & day to awesome! keep up the great work!

Titus
07-17-2013, 09:48 AM
love this thread!! this car has just gone from night & day to awesome! keep up the great work!

Thanks!

Hyper
07-17-2013, 10:07 AM
I frankly have never been too concerned with the mirrors. The fading bugged me pre-repaint, but since Rogue painted them I am happy with them. I am not a fan of the little mirrors, the various chrome mirrors don't fit with the feel of the car, and I haven't seen anything else that inspires me enough to part with my money.
.

do you like these?? they are plug and play for the miata!
8397

or these??

8398

Rogue
07-17-2013, 10:23 AM
Lol... It was actually in black primer last time I saw it, as I guess that was what he had on hand and it worked well for block standing. It looked great... Very mean. I was tempted to tell him it was perfect as is and I was driving it home. :-)
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o756/RogueRace/Miata%20Solutions/IMG_0320.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/RogueRace/media/Miata%20Solutions/IMG_0320.jpg.html)

and I found you a plate......and its available! ;)
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o756/RogueRace/Miata%20Solutions/IMG_1855_zps0444892c.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/RogueRace/media/Miata%20Solutions/IMG_1855_zps0444892c.jpg.html)

Titus
07-17-2013, 10:37 AM
do you like these?? they are plug and play for the miata!
or these??
The second one is nice, but once I got them and then paid for them to be painted, I am sure I would be several hundred in to it... At this point there are just too many other things i would rather spend that money on.

Titus
07-17-2013, 10:38 AM
and I found you a plate......and its available! ;)

Nice! If texas custom plate charges were not so crazy, I would do it.

Hyper
07-17-2013, 12:29 PM
I opened a thread so all the forum members can post please of their side mirrors.

http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?6336-Post-your-aftermarket-side-mirrors!!&p=95271#post95271

Rogue
07-17-2013, 12:50 PM
Nice! If texas custom plate charges were not so crazy, I would do it.

Being Cool aint cheap! :p

Titus
07-17-2013, 12:54 PM
Being Cool aint cheap! :p
It was when I lived in CA.. I think it was something like $28 a year when I lived there... here it is $195 a year unless you pay for a decade up front.

Titus
07-17-2013, 05:49 PM
PS Pump installed. Now I need to get the SC nose bearings pressed out... I am meeting up with one of the guys From Track Dog Racing so he can take a look and see if they can do it.

Sharpie
07-18-2013, 09:52 AM
Awesome Todd, I'm recently getting mine back to running consistently again too. I think I'm there finally.

Titus
07-19-2013, 10:01 AM
I picked up the supercharger nose parts last night... He was able to get everything pressed apart, and I was relieved to find that the part numbers on the old bearings matched those of the new ones that came with the rebuild kit. I want to give the shaft and nose case a good cleaning tonight before I begin the freezer / oven process to get it all reassembled this weekend. I also realized that the K&N filter had a big tear in the the rubber base, so I ordered a replacement from Summit. Should be here Monday.


Awesome Todd, I'm recently getting mine back to running consistently again too. I think I'm there finally.

Sweet!

Phatmiata
07-19-2013, 10:11 AM
It was when I lived in CA.. I think it was something like $28 a year when I lived there... here it is $195 a year unless you pay for a decade up front.

that's because all the states are broke, so they just bumped the taxes for everyone to pay for their spending habits, lol

the rates doubled here in Florida recently. :fp:

Titus
07-19-2013, 10:33 AM
that's because all the states are broke, so they just bumped the taxes for everyone to pay for their spending habits, lol

the rates doubled here in Florida recently. :fp:

That, and Texas decided to outsource custom plates to a private company... with a monopoly, they seem to charge whatever they want. When questioned it, they respond that they have plans that start as low as $60 a year which is in line with the national average. What they fail to mention is that you have to pay for 10 years in advance to get that rate. :shock: I have a hard time making that type of commitment to a plate.

Rogue
07-19-2013, 01:04 PM
Damn, thats schitty!
You know, In 2017 you can get a antique plate for $60 and it last 5 years.
No inspection, no window stickers at all, (and with a waiver you don't even have to carry insurance. IIRC)
I run 1962 YOM antique plates on the Thunderbird.

Sharpie
03-24-2014, 11:23 AM
Time to get together soon, Todd and Stevan!!!!!!

Driftdevil
03-24-2014, 12:44 PM
Stevan has to find time in that crazy schedule of his. Lol

Sharpie
03-24-2014, 01:19 PM
I settle for you and Todd then.

psulja
03-25-2014, 10:44 AM
I came in here expecting more pics, I'm sad now :(

Rogue
03-25-2014, 11:31 AM
Yeah, were all sad with it still sitting in Todd's dark garage all alone.
Needs some sunshine on that Sunburst!

jux
03-25-2014, 09:07 PM
I'll volunteer to put some miles on it.
:)

WASABI
03-26-2014, 07:42 AM
Can someone reach out to him, and at least have him visit the site again?... I LOVE THIS CAR!!!! It deserves to be it the light again!

Sharpie
03-26-2014, 03:36 PM
During Spring Break, mine came out of the garage, got washed, driven around the block and right back to its tomb :-(

Driftdevil
03-26-2014, 05:38 PM
Can someone reach out to him, and at least have him visit the site again?... I LOVE THIS CAR!!!! It deserves to be it the light again!

He's been busy with his fish tanks. Lol! We mess with him whenever we see him.

Titus
02-27-2015, 05:06 PM
So bringing this thread back to life. Going back a few years, I had some intermittent noise on the drivers side of the motor. I replaced the supercharger tensioner pulleys, and it had no affect. Disappointed and distracted by other things getting my fun money, the car sat. The following year, I replace the PS pump and AC compressor. No affect. Disappointment and frustration. The problem was clearly where I was trying hard to deny it could be... in the supercharger. No more fun tickets, The car went back in to the shop to be ignored. Finally last fall I had amassed plenty of fun tickets, so I pulled the SC off and sent it out for a repair estimate. It needed everything replaced, to the tune of over a grand. I shouldn't have been surprised, as I had bought the SC used with unknown mileage, then put over 50k on it myself, many of which was well over the recommended RPMs. I had the cash but I wondered if it was really what I wanted to do. I stewed for a few months, and then decided I would not fix the supercharger...

Titus
02-27-2015, 05:12 PM
So I had a plan (that I will get to), but the first step was to get the car drive-able, registered, and inspected (stickers were over 2 years expired by this point). So January saw the following happen:

Pulled supercharger and re-installed stock intake and accessories
Pulled Intercooler and put radiator back to stock location
Pulled LINK and re-installed stock ECU
Pulled RC injectors and re-installed stock injectors
Pulled crank overlay pulley and sourced new stock crank pulley bolts
Sourced and replaced bad PWR radiator cock
Re-did vacuum hosing
Undid all of the wiring changes that had been done for injectors, fans, knock sensors, wideband, etc
New battery
New clutch master and slave
Converted rack to manual and removed PS pump/hoses/reservoir
Replaced bad fan relay
Adjusted timing and idle
Installed a known good CAT
Got it registered
Got it inspected

Titus
02-27-2015, 05:20 PM
So what is next? Well I bought these from a local junk yard:
13603
And I ordered this from Minitec:
http://superfastmiatas.com/MIATA/JV6%20KITSS.jpg

So that is the plan. TO BE CONTINUED. :twisted:

jux
02-27-2015, 05:32 PM
Hell yeah!!

Titus
02-27-2015, 09:04 PM
Hell yeah!!
Hey Steve... Real work should be starting in about 3 weeks. Once it does, you should stop by. I am hoping people will stop in from time to time to help out or just keep me company in the shop!

Tkblazer
02-27-2015, 10:22 PM
That's awesome...definitely interested

Phatmiata
02-27-2015, 11:18 PM
This will be most awesome!! Excited to see pics of the tear down an buildup !!

RustRat
02-28-2015, 03:58 AM
It would be interestimg to hear your thoughts and impressions going back to (what I assume is) a stock N/A Miata, from having it supercharged, even if it is temporary.

Anything you missed while it was with the SC on? Anything you miss without the SC?

Good luck with the rest of your build, looks promising!

Titus
02-28-2015, 08:20 AM
It would be interestimg to hear your thoughts and impressions going back to (what I assume is) a stock N/A Miata, from having it supercharged, even if it is temporary.

Anything you missed while it was with the SC on? Anything you miss without the SC?

Good luck with the rest of your build, looks promising!

I'v been driving a stock 93LE for the last 3 years, so I don't think I even remember what the SC really felt like. I do recall having to consciously remember to go easy pulling out on to the 65mph highway from the light by my house if I didn't want the back-end to kick out. That is not an issue stock. :fp: I had forgotten how heavy the ACT HD pressure plate was compared to stock, and glad I never got an ACT extreme. I am curios to find out how the clutch that Minitec provides feels. It included a Honda B series flywheel, pressure plate and throwout bearing, and a Miata 1.8 clutch disc.

Phatmiata
02-28-2015, 08:23 AM
Excellent! Another 93LE owner, we have a bunch of 93LE owners here! :bow:

jux
02-28-2015, 02:27 PM
Hey Steve... Real work should be starting in about 3 weeks. Once it does, you should stop by. I am hoping people will stop in from time to time to help out or just keep me company in the shop!

I'd be happy to drop by sometime! Bit of a haul from Grapevine, but I should be able to manage. ;)
Keep me updated on your schedule so I can help swear and throw things. I'm very adept at both.

WASABI
02-28-2015, 03:15 PM
I'm glad to see you haven't fallen off the the face of the earth. Your car deserves to be brought back from the dead.

Titus
02-28-2015, 06:02 PM
Thanks for the love guys. This car has been with me for 14 years next month and it will rule the road once again.

Titus
03-27-2015, 11:08 PM
Update time...

In order to get the engine to fit, the intake manifold must be modified. Minitec has 2 different ways to achieve this:

Option A moves the throttle body to the side of the intake. This is their preferred method, as it allows power steering and EGR to be retained.
http://superfastmiatas.com/MIATA/IMG_7297.JPG

Option B is to flip the intake manifold and lower runners 180 degrees, and modify the throttle body mount to angle down to clear the hood.
http://classicmotorsports.com/media/img/featurenews/IMG_9466.jpg

I decided on option B, as I liked the look better and didn't mind loosing power steering and EGR.

Titus
03-27-2015, 11:10 PM
I have removed my intake manifold and sent it off to minitec for modification. Knowing I would be loosing EGR (when you flip the manifold, the everything but the EGR port lines up perfectly), I went ahead and removed the EGR valve and got an EGR blockoff plate.
https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/11043444_10202944801575902_7232621828571386981_o.j pg

Once I get the manifold back, I will also have to address blocking off the EGR hole in the manifold, as it is now exposed.

I also have flipped the lower intake runners. In order to re-install the fuel rails, a new mounting hole needs to be drilled in each rail. Below you can see the old empty hole that doesn't line up, with the bolt next to it using the new hole I drilled.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/11061276_10202946632581676_4167753174397971284_o.j pg

While I had not planned on doing any performance upgrades to the engine initially, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to pick up these ported and polished runners I found online. They arrived today, so I will need to swap out the ones on there when I have a chance.
https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10647057_10202949870702627_1721532900667679862_n.j pg?oh=368a1cfc0f1ca78a34ad094e852a06bf&oe=55A48D1C

Titus
03-27-2015, 11:11 PM
The actual swap kit arrived this evening. This is what is was delivered in:
https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11071000_10202951907673550_1058641548175432633_o.j pg

I am not going to bother taking pictures of everything straight out of the box, as it all looks much like what can be seen in the pic on their website:
http://superfastmiatas.com/MIATA/JV6%20KITSS.jpg

As I actually go to install parts, I will add pictures of them then. I am expecting this build to go pretty slow, but will try to update the thread each week. The next update will be around the removal of the old engine and subframe, planned for Sunday.

Phatmiata
03-28-2015, 08:14 AM
:shock: oh my, a heart transplant !!! This build just got crazy!!

Titus
03-29-2015, 07:40 PM
Intake and Radiator are out.
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/t31.0-8/10842088_10202961644916975_1688105351236558874_o.j pg


Header out.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/11082495_10202961644876974_1269692033893295275_o.j pg


No more transmission.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/11080006_10202961644836973_1290502098920738172_o.j pg


Here comes the engine.
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11049514_10202961645676994_5388077627267049944_n.j pg?oh=cbd7e106e06f5a3aa40629049b5c2921&oe=55B586B7

Engine out.
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/11070102_10202961645917000_8893842689969482078_o.j pg

Subframe?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11102803_10202961645957001_3658294378812310434_n.j pg?oh=6929f7123a37bc26f26fb4cfdf221954&oe=55730051&__gda__=1436615397_22dc4e27d39e52b97d5cfd75714f584 0


We don't need no stock subframe!
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11080728_10202961646397012_5864134161309629708_o.j pg



How low can we go?
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11008577_10202961646797022_7269140395382485640_o.j pg



A lot easier to tuck with no subframe in the car!
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11071040_10202961646877024_8397720992847115820_o.j pg




VIP baby!
https://scontent-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11045426_10202961647277034_3955177058378310193_n.j pg?oh=3443f3067e5111f0d9077108d2235761&oe=55A325B7

Satisaii
03-29-2015, 08:04 PM
I would recommend talking to someone who really knows the engine to make sure that oil pan holds enough oil for track use. We are doing a K20A swap and were told that our car won't last 2 laps on a high banked oval road course. Took a major redesign of the oiling system to get it where is would rev to 8800 RPM and survive with a decreased capacity pan.

I hope I get the chance to do a V6 swap someday.

Titus
03-29-2015, 08:24 PM
I would recommend talking to someone who really knows the engine to make sure that oil pan holds enough oil for track use. We are doing a K20A swap and were told that our car won't last 2 laps on a high banked oval road course. Took a major redesign of the oiling system to get it where is would rev to 8800 RPM and survive with a decreased capacity pan.

I hope I get the chance to do a V6 swap someday.
The oil pan was designed to maintain the same capacity as the original Honda pan. Some baffling was also added to the pan starting with my kit (I am told I am kit #10). While I may do a misc autocross or fun day at the track, I am not a track rat and am not one to push the car as hard as some. I think in the 14 years I have owned the car, it has seen 5 track days, 5 autocrosses, and 2 trips to the 1/8 mile drag strip.

With that said, there is a guy in Oregon that I am friends with that is building one specifically to campaign in ICSCC ST this season. He will definitely help us find the weak points, and Minitec will be paying attention to how his holds up.

Stealth97
03-31-2015, 12:30 PM
The widebody looks absolutely amazing!

Titus
03-31-2015, 05:33 PM
First task last night was cleaning up the transmission. The car had a rear main seal leak for the last several years, so the transmission was nasty.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/19122_10202968839256829_3232159140668106604_n.jpg? oh=b82fbedb2182adac2cbf3b9a2282b3ad&oe=55A2FE0F&__gda__=1437827534_f311a5f173a18b0d14ada7aa338c057 9


A little degreaser, a wire brush, a power washer, and about 90 minutes, and it was 95% better. There are still some crevices that have build up, but it is good enough for me.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10999256_10202968839776842_1724721685824427734_n.j pg?oh=e3f7ac1af897ada9f48a97842439c98a&oe=5572FBA7&__gda__=1436451032_594929aecb838946ac939984c5f4f85 f



Next on the list was cleaning the engine bay. Frankly I didn't get much cleaning done. I kept getting distracted by trying to move stuff in the way, and then ended up adding some lightness.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11002636_10202968840216853_2788289790318528692_n.j pg?oh=27cbc2b13964cacff7c8e22b07a80bed&oe=55A1D254
(Its not like they served a purpose any more given I ditched the stock steering wheel a few years ago.)

Titus
04-01-2015, 10:18 PM
Nuts and bolts

One of the things I ordered early on was a timing belt and water pump kit. Given the engine had 80k miles on it, I figured it was just about due. Once I got around to removing the timing belt cover, I found a fairly new Gates timing belt was on the car. Given this, I ended up flipping the TB kit to a friend for a small loss (which I have recorded in my cost log).

But whats important is nuts and bolts. When I was removing the timing belt cover, I noticed that several of the bolts had pretty rusty heads. I ended up soaking them all over night in rust remover and they looked as good as new. The problem though was that about half of them had very poor zinc plating (a few seemed to have none at all on the head) and this was clearly what allowed them to rust. Re-installing them as is was just asking for a repeat of the rust build-up. Replacing them seemed costly at over $3 a bolt plus shipping for over a dozen of them. I considered having them powder coated when I send off the valve covers, but that seemed like overkill. I even briefly considered a zinc coating kit from Eastwood, but as i researched the kit I found myself reading about bolt treatments on a Harley forum. There I discovered the idea of painting them with fingernail polish. Durable, comes with a brush the right size for painting bolt heads, and easy to touch up if it gets scratched. A quick raiding of my daughter's nail polish collection and 30 minutes later, they were all painted black.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11133960_10202980504108443_7577876336205987856_n.j pg?oh=22a3cc9e515f2222d8de948cbff5bf4f&oe=559CFA78&__gda__=1436965685_6da1086bae4b4b1e69af969a51186f4 2

From there we go to Accessory bolts. One thing you will find is that most junkyards sell the accessories separate from the engine. I didn't even realize this until a few days after the engine was in the garage. I addressed this and sourced an Alternator and AC Compressor, but then I found I didn't have the bolts to attach them. I needed to order a weird gasket only sold by Honda anyway, so I ordered the 2 Alternator bolts and 4 compressor bolts. About 15 seconds after they were installed, I realized how much time and money in shipping charges my lack of thinking ahead was costing me, as now I needed to order a belt. Belt arrived and went on easy.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11088407_10202980534349199_1536508521492517678_n.j pg?oh=09380b68af3ba1f8a72c51c6df997334&oe=55BDFC42

Titus
04-02-2015, 09:16 PM
Tonight I finished stripping the engine bay and I got one side clean.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/11009857_10202984743774432_5034050569949404969_o.j pg

SpeedWorks
04-04-2015, 09:33 PM
this is so awesome. i've been looking at the honda v6 swap lately for a future project and this kinda pushed my decision. the bodywork on this car is great, so now there will be plenty of muscle to back up the looks.

Titus
04-04-2015, 11:20 PM
this is so awesome. i've been looking at the honda v6 swap lately for a future project and this kinda pushed my decision. the bodywork on this car is great, so now there will be plenty of muscle to back up the looks.

Thanks.. PM me when you are getting ready to order. I may be able to provide some advice and I will get you in to the owners group I admin.

jux
04-04-2015, 11:30 PM
That's a clean bay! Looks like great progress so far.

Tkblazer
04-04-2015, 11:54 PM
Man I just looked up how much those engines cost and it's crazy how cheap they are

Agent☣Orange
04-05-2015, 02:32 AM
How much?

Titus
04-05-2015, 07:44 AM
How much?

I got the 2 pictured earlier from a junk yard 2 miles from my house. Both are from 2002 Acura TL Type S donor cars, both have around 80k miles. The junk yard had them listed on car-part.com for $250 plus tax plus a $100 core fee for each. By buying both, I got him to cut the core charge in half. I then got one of his guys to deliver them to my house for another $20. All in, it was $330 per engine delivered.

Now with that said, the engines usually come without accessories or harness and a few of the sensors almost always get broke when they pull the harness. I spent another $340 on Alternator, Compressor, harness, bolts and belt to install the accessories, and 2 broken sensors.

Titus
04-05-2015, 08:21 AM
Friday night saw a break for Furious 7, and most of Saturday was detoured by replacing the house water heater, but I found time Saturday night for dash removal. Probably Not required to complete the swap, but it will make some things easier and allows me to remove the rest of the airbag stuff, install a new heater core, and add some foam strip to the back of the dash to get rid of some old age rattles and creaks.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11136209_10202996493028156_3613297529913995243_o.j pg

Titus
04-05-2015, 06:31 PM
Today started with removing the brake booster and AC lines, and then finishing the cleaning. Won't be much more action in here until I can get the paint work done.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/11116261_10202999364499941_2176963888123449589_o.j pg



I then turned my attention to the transmission. You need to cut a notch out for starter clearance. A template is provided with the kit to mark it.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10405282_10202999364459940_791703239456800067_n.jp g?oh=1ccf4d822426ac35768d378cfe40b4a1&oe=55A86401

After a little work with the cutoff wheel, it is ready for test fitting.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11139360_10202999364419939_2653841036848910904_n.j pg?oh=a80a74206c2dea4d2b69b91f4a00c8aa&oe=55B9AF61

Today's last task was the throw out bearing bushing. Others have said it was a real pain to get on, but it slid on by hand for me. I may even go back and dimple it to add a little more friction so it doesn't ever move.

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/19330_10202999365219959_3105333731296692073_n.jpg? oh=12c75e551fe69b3e4b8dda9ca1099e1c&oe=55AE54C8

TNRooster3
04-05-2015, 09:17 PM
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6349/cc01i.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7614/cc02.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8964/cc03.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2428/cc04c.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4011/cc05.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/92/cc06n.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8938/cc07.jpg
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6097/cc08.jpg
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/3903/cc09p.jpg

This looks just too cool, WOW.....wish I lived close enough to see this in person, where have I been not to have seen this thread? Also the engine swap is really something, now I wish I had not traded off my '91 Mariner Jellybean and did this engine swap instead. Rooster would have had a really cool garage mate.

Titus
04-05-2015, 09:51 PM
This looks just too cool, WOW.....wish I lived close enough to see this in person, where have I been not to have seen this thread? Also the engine swap is really something, now I wish I had not traded off my '91 Mariner Jellybean and did this engine swap instead. Rooster would have had a really cool garage mate.

While you may not know my car, Rooster does! :mrgreen:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t31.0-8/475291_10150713984849799_1049888162_o.jpg

TNRooster3
04-05-2015, 10:35 PM
Man oh man, did not know this, cool stuff, thanks for the pix, I'll add it to my album. There are so many cool miatas in and around Dallas!!!

Titus
04-07-2015, 05:31 PM
No wrenching updates right now as I wait on a few different dependencies, but I did get a new radio surround for the car in the mail today.

The old radio surround was purchased years ago when I needed a place for boost and a/f gauges. It was also stainless steel, as most everything I bought for the car back in those days was shinny.
https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11046537_10203010764864943_1267484383123731033_n.j pg?oh=1df44f15c75112f079f3b243195ff3dd&oe=55AD0CD6

The new one gets rid of the gauge holes that are no longer needed, and is in matte black to fit in better with the current theme of the car.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/11050657_10203010765224952_7543823666869164503_o.j pg

TNRooster3
04-08-2015, 09:07 AM
Anxiously waiting for the next post with info on this V6 swap in this amazing looking car!!!

Titus
04-08-2015, 09:42 AM
Anxiously waiting for the next post with info on this V6 swap in this amazing looking car!!!

Thanks... I am hoping to tackle the oil pan tomorrow night.

TNRooster3
04-08-2015, 10:38 AM
OK, I check back. THX

Titus
04-08-2015, 09:23 PM
I didn't think there was anything to do this evening, but then I realized I could swap the headers...

The stock driver's side header does an OK job hugging the block, but it isn't enough to clear the steering.

(Sorry for the out of focus pic)
https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/10629366_10203016587530506_1240447954749061744_o.j pg

To give the added clearance needed, A modified OEM header is provided that has been shaved down at an angle.

Here you can see the old and new ones side by side.
https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/20605_10203016588130521_8952808647858255291_n.jpg? oh=202fdf3cfc146511a42f42d95b3724ca&oe=55AD0D46

With the new one on, you can see that it hugs the block a lot better.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/10982421_10203016588090520_2072988210400005398_o.j pg

I didn't get a pic of the passenger side, but its stock header is actually angled out away from the block. This won't do, but it turns out that the one that was removed from the drivers side works just fine on the passenger side given there is no steering to deal with.

Titus
04-09-2015, 10:50 PM
Tonight the new oil pan was installed The first step was flip the engine upside down on the stand and to remove the old pan. I have heard some at a hard time separating the old pan from the block, but there are 2 slots made for a pry bar to fit in and it popped right off for me.

Here you can see the pan off. Notice the location of the oil pickup? That won't work with the new pan.

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/11088746_10203022240311822_2903989498222670160_o.j pg



Before the new pan goes on, you need to remove the windage tray and stock oil pickup, and install the new pickup that comes with the kit.

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/11136267_10203022240391824_3832184601875890411_o.j pg

This is what the inside of the new pan looks like. The pickup needs to slip into the sump, so it is good to practice before applying the liquid gasket.

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11148471_10203022237231745_1194358429025415892_n.j pg?oh=799dca8c422cf7f505b4504ea17bb051&oe=55A3A5EF

The liquid gasket I used was Hondabond, as it is what Honda recommends. It calls for it to be spread thin over the mating surface of the block and it cures fast, so it was helpful to have 2 people.. one to place the bead and one to spread it thin. We were in a hurry, so no pics until the pan was in place. The front bolts under the sump are a real pain to get in.

Here is a blurry pic of the pan once torqued.

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10687030_10203022367555003_8116341293233219549_n.j pg?oh=51b89a46cdeae7e86de3313240c4cf79&oe=559A57FD

And here is a side view where you can see one of the easier to reach of the 4 front bolts.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/11149639_10203022240951838_2633469543545133992_o.j pg

TNRooster3
04-10-2015, 07:22 AM
Good info, like all the pix.

Titus
04-13-2015, 10:39 PM
There was no progress made over the weekend, as I had other commitments. Tonight I tackled the transmission adapter plate and flywheel. The adapter is first put in to position along with 2 included steel dowels. There are 4 included allen head bolts that go through the adapter plate in to engine. The holes in the adapter plate are counter-bored to allow the bolts to be flush with the adapter plate and not interfere with the transmission. There are also 2 included allen head bolts that come through flanges cast into the passenger side of the block and screw in to the adapter plate.

Adapter plate mounted and Flywheel adapter in place
https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11025722_10203044120818821_3382881987601891542_o.j pg

There is an included flywheel adapter and bolts that moves the flywheel out from the engine to compensate for the thickness of the adapter plate. The included flywheel is a stock Honda B Series flywheel that has had the ring gear flipped to work with the starter. The start provided is designed for a 1984-1995 Honda Civic SOHC.


Flywheel and starter mounted
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/10475483_10203044120858822_7034500292887131587_o.j pg

Titus
04-16-2015, 08:09 PM
There couldn't be a easier time than now to replace the old clutch line. I picked up one of the extended length braided stainless steel ones from Treasure Coast Miata for only $30 shipped.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xft1/t31.0-8/11127580_10203059754689658_2015525941161530478_o.j pg

Got the old one out.
https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/11038420_10203059754609656_5237723572177339986_o.j pg

And the new one is in.
https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/t31.0-8/10353370_10203059754729659_4908088765378601647_o.j pg

TNRooster3
04-17-2015, 10:35 AM
It's coming along a little at a time, good job, keep up the posts and pix. Thx

Stealth97
04-19-2015, 03:37 PM
Couldn't they have done something about that starter location?

Titus
04-20-2015, 07:39 AM
Couldn't they have done something about that starter location?

It is the only location on the engine side of the flywheel that can get close enough to the flywheel to do its job. They probably could have done something on the transmission side like what is done for the KL swap, but it is debatable if that is any better of a choice... The KL still leaves the starter exposed on the bottom of the car (although it does look to let it sit about an inch higher) and it requires a much larger section of the bellhousing to be removed (does that affect the the structural integrity of the transmission?).

In the end, it is pretty well protected from bottoming out on something by being centered between the wheels, I plan on a custom belly pan to protect it from rocks/debris, and lets be honest... it is a $60 civic starter stocked at every parts store in America and I could swap it in 5 minutes on the side of the road.

Titus
04-20-2015, 08:39 AM
Time for some suspension work. The front subframe and suspension came off the car all together, so first I disassembled it and figured out what would be reused.

The shock assemblies looked pretty nasty.

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/11078276_10203076982560344_7843320647522231030_o.j pg

A little cleaning made a big difference.

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/r90/11082213_10203076982640346_7041166399123729615_o.j pg

The control arms looked pretty dirty and had the original bushing and ball joints in them.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/11169770_10203076982600345_7757127087212711698_o.j pg

I cheated a little here, as I had a set of control arms off of a 96 parts cart that I had already cleaned and removed the bushings. I pushed new OEM bushings in, replaced the lower ball joints with new OEM ones, cleaned/repacked the upper ball joints and gave them new boots, and then reassembled everything on the new subframe with new alignment bolts.

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11013311_10203076983720373_3953157452158905326_n.j pg?oh=6fe95f91c5e42799d6403afdc23f4628&oe=55E0D581

Everything is now installed on the new sub-frame and ready for bolting in to the car. The lower control arm attaches to the new subframe just like the stock one, but the upper control arms are a little different. Note the zink plated washers on the upper control arms. The kit comes with 12 of them and 6 are used on each side. You can have them spread equally front to back for stock geometry, or you can split them unequally which I believe results in change in castor. Maybe someday I will play around with that, but for now I split them equally.

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/11163280_10203076983680372_6939553523081880122_o.j pg

Titus
04-22-2015, 06:03 PM
Time for a little update... I good friend​ of mine was out Sunday evening to take car of the paint issues in the engine bay. He got it all prepped but then realized that a crucial can didn't make it into his box of supplies. This is how it sits now, patiently waiting for his return. ;)

https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11077953_10203092848036971_1865232346611453219_o.j pg

Demon I Am
04-23-2015, 07:07 AM
Oops, gotta have paint to.... um, paint.

Titus
04-23-2015, 07:25 AM
Oops, gotta have paint to.... um, paint.

LOL... it was actually the clear coat hardener that was missing.

Titus
04-25-2015, 03:19 PM
I ordered a new Heater core for the car, but unfortunately it arrived damaged. I'm hoping the exchange process is not too painful.

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/r270/11160664_10203106996950685_6249376511452607033_n.j pg?oh=cfe2671de8b3e9843b10f7c99fe5c102&oe=55D1497C

I also got a set of new heater hose grommets. I didn't realize how bad the old ones really were until I pulled them out and put them next to the new ones.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11114281_10203106997030687_3039080722257832075_n.j pg?oh=dd075bb957e978fa4a309b8ba8382bf5&oe=55A0AD55&__gda__=1439695255_3945366bca1b6f7727f6bc5b1726d83 f

Rogue
04-25-2015, 05:39 PM
LOL... it was actually the clear coat hardener that was missing.

What kinda dumbass would forget that :roll:

:lol:

Titus
04-26-2015, 06:49 AM
Bwahahaha!

Titus
05-11-2015, 05:08 PM
Sorry for the lack of updates lately. Progress has been made slowly, but not as much as I would have liked. I was sick for over a week, and we have been hit with constant thunderstorms here in Texas and I don't like hanging out in a Metal building when it's storming.

Rogue made it back out with the needed painting supplies. Here it is after the primer and first coat of color was down.
https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/t31.0-8/11110369_10203115968974980_7928544817066936365_o.j pg

And here it is after the second coat of color and the clear went down.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/11154957_10203115969054982_8665287298940183823_o.j pg

Titus
05-11-2015, 05:12 PM
After the paint had cured for a few days, I decided to try to install the front subframe. As I had mentioned before, I had pre-assembled the suspension on the subframe a few weeks earlier. I don't recommend this, as it adds a lot of weight and makes it much more difficult to maneuver. When I first tried the install it, I was sick, and didn't have any help. With much cursing, I managed to get it in place and get 6 of the 8 bolts on, but I couldn't get the far back 2 bolts in and it appeared to me that the sub-frame was out of spec. I contacted Minitec, and they checked the jig and a few of the other recently completed subframes and said they couldn't see any cause for the issue. Frustrated and sick, I let it sit for about a week. Once I was feeling better, I removed all of the suspension from it to make it easier to maneuver and tried again. It bolted right up. I then re-installed the suspension and got to put it back on it's wheels for the first time in a while.

https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/11148677_10203188887917908_275407301458527481_o.jp g

Titus
05-11-2015, 05:13 PM
Next I wanted to test fit the engine in the car. With the help of a friend, we got the engine bolted in. It will come out again later for some other work, but it felt good to see it in the car.

https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/11206480_10203188888077912_4282094614129782322_o.j pg


The next thing I wanted to do was bolt the transmission in and hook up the PPF, so I could see the final positioning of the engine to test clearances. The kit calls for the re-use of the Mazda transmission alignment dowels. Mine have spent the last 23+ years stuck in the 1.6l Miata engine and seemed to be happy where they were. I tried my best to get them out without damaging them, but they are now completely mangled and still in the old engine. I have a new pair on order.

Phatmiata
05-12-2015, 07:06 AM
wow looks right at home in there!!! :mrgreen:

TNRooster3
06-22-2015, 01:41 PM
Haven't seen anything for a bit, anything new from the Rotten Banana?

Greasemonkey2000
07-11-2015, 05:58 AM
Such a beautiful miata with fantastic body work! :bow: Going to be awesome with the j swap! Any chance the m45 is still lying around?

Titus
09-10-2015, 10:22 PM
OK... Sorry guys. As you may have guessed, I took much of the summer off from the project. Between business trips, vacation, doing stuff with the kid and wife, and the fact that a metal shop in Texas spends most of the summer north of 120*, I had very little interest in the car. Now that school has started back up and cooler weather is on the horizon, I have started to get back in to the swing of things. I have several new pictures and progress reports to post so i will try to make several updates over the next few days. I have also taken every 3rd Friday off through the end of the year, so hopefully we can expect to see regular progress.

To start things off, I will post about the one time I actually spent a little time in the shop: It took a few months, but I finally got my valve covers back from the powder coater. They are done is 15% gloss black, which is the same as what the Harddog rollbar comes in and what I did my door handles in. I got them installed with new gaskets, and while I was there I installed new OEM spec NGK PZFR6E11 spark plugs (expensive buggers) and reinstalled the coils.

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/10608620_10203866518618252_4712371526489113364_o.j pg

More posts to come.

Titus
09-11-2015, 04:20 PM
ECU and Wiring.

I believe I explained early on that I was going to run a stock ECU with the immobilizer removed and I was going to pay a company to modify the harness and add circuitry to trick the ECU in to thinking the AT was there (to keep it out of limp mode). I have been watching a few other builds take this route over the last 4 months. While they have been successful, there are issues I am less than pleased with. Some are having to add an APEXI piggyback unit to get fuel and VTEC engagement adjusted, and they are not able to reach the 7k rev limit that is stock to my engine. The formula is evolving and improving, but will take more time before it is to my liking. While watching and waiting, I noticed a vendor put the PnP AEM Series II on sale, so I jumped out of the stock ECU boat.

Here is the brand spanking new AEM Series II 30-6051 I purchased, along with the AEM 30-4110 wideband I picked up to go along with it.

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/t31.0-8/11953380_10203866604220392_6385621663712518639_o.j pg

While the AEM plugs right in to the harness for my engine, there is still a lot of unused wires and plugs in it, and there are outside connections to the Chassis that need to be made. I could still pay one of a few companies to modify the harness to deal with this stuff, but I choose not to for 3 reasons:
1) There is no trick circuitry needed... If you can trace wires, read a wiring diagram, and solder a little, it can be done on your own.
2) Doing the work myself forces me to learn how it all works and allows me to build out a spreadsheet that identifies everything there, what it is for, and where it goes to. This will be important if I ever need to troubleshoot an issue in the future.
3) The purchase of the AEM was a big chunk of money that wasn't planned in my initial build, so modifying the harness myself saves money in another area of the budget to get my net increase down under $600.

The first thing I did was to start a spreadsheet with a tab for each ECU plug. I listed out all of the pins for the given plug, and then I utilized the AEM manual and a factory Acura manual to identified the wire color, the use of the pin in stock form, if the AEM uses it, and if so then how it uses it. From there, I traced every wire that the AEM uses from ECU pin to plug and labeled the plug. Next, I traced any wires to labeled plugs that had not come from the ECU (mostly grounds and power from chassis). This information was noted for future use in connecting the harness to the chassis.

Once I was confident in my understanding of the wiring and what was and wasn't needed, I started removing everything that was not used. This is what was removed:

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11990502_10203866520458298_2876665274046068571_n.j pg?oh=82ec91952e24a7c108812da044701464&oe=566A6F10

Next up was working on the connections to the chassis. I considered using the Honda chassis plugs, but had issues sourcing new matching halves. In the end, I decided to purchase several sets of new waterproof 8 pin connectors. I took the 8 remaining wires off of the old Honda chassis pugs and got them setup on a new plug.

Soldering is fun!
https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12011166_10203866519498274_1013343301746065679_n.j pg?oh=0c4ba82fa4bad12896013d51e5522c5e&oe=56AA4A58

All wired up.
https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/t31.0-8/11145101_10203866519698279_2174091092290009629_o.j pg

The next item on the list is the A plug into the ECU. This plug is not from engine harness... it comes from the Honda dash harness. Given I didn't have that, I sourced a new one along with some new pins.

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/12006429_10203866604540400_4639399674758019205_o.j pg

Next up will be soldering wires to the new pins, plugging them into the A connector where needed, and then running them out to a second new 8 pin connector for chassis connections.

Also on the list is adding the wires to the harness for the Miata temperature and oil pressure sensors that I am adapting to the engine for use of the Miata gauges. After that, I need to continue pouring over the Miata wiring diagrams to make final decisions on where all of the chassis connection wires need to go so I can wire in the chassis side plugs that will connect to the engine harness. Does your head hurt? Mine does.

Titus
09-18-2015, 05:04 PM
The Water Passage. This is going to be a long post.... On the back of the J series motor, there is a coolant manifold that Honda refers to as the water passage. Water coming out from the water pump passes through one middle of the water passage, through the thermostat, and out to the radiator, and then it comes back in to another section of the manifold from the radiator return where it is routed in to the back of each head. It also contains EGR passages that run from the head to Intake, the EGR valve mounts to it, The Air-Assist valve is mounted to it, it holds a temp sensor, and it has misc coolant input/output connections for Heater core, transmission cooler, and IAC valve.


This is what a stock one looks like off the motor (not mine)

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/t31.0-8/11921759_10203866519178266_3764534524417866812_o.j pg

While not really mandatory, there are several things that I am changing about my water passage. First was the replacement of the EGR valve with a blockoff plate. (This was shown back near the beginning, but here it is again to show all related things together:

https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/11043444_10202944801575902_7232621828571386981_o.j pg

The second change relates to the big coolant return pipe seen in the top right of the stock part photo. It is pointed back toward the firewall. While there is clearance between the firewall and pipe itself, it doesn't really leave the room needed to get a hose on there. Given that the Minitech kit is budget minded, the instructions call for you to "massage" the firewall with a body hammer to create needed room. This didn't sit well with me, so I picked up a new pipe. Speedway motors had what looked to be exactly what it needed, so I ordered it:

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/11/9171003_L_15920906.JPG

It was exactly what I was looking for. Given my welding is limited to ugly steel welds with my Harbor Freight flux wire welder, I took it to a welder near me with aluminum TIG experience. a Day later and the wallet a little lighter, The old pipe was removed and my new one was cut to size and welded on:

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11958243_10203866518658253_5272671407836920407_o.j pg

Once it was back, I did a quick test fit. The bend of the pipe is more than 1/2" off the firewall, and now there is plenty of room to easily get a hose on there.

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/11951729_10203866518378246_4539802278787720187_o.j pg

Next up was deleting the air assist valve. It is mounted to the top of the water passage and is designed to let extra air in around the fuel injectors when cold to improve emissions during warm-up. Not needed. Prank parts makes a nice blockoff plate for it.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12039402_10203906682622327_552515008487452776_n.jp g?oh=d3885996d77c0a30dab0e5e52b9e394a&oe=566BCB9F

Here it is alongside the factory part:

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/q81/s960x960/12031380_10203906682662328_8769727127144225984_o.j pg

And here it is installed.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/12031508_10203906682702329_4342576605379513937_o.j pg

Now I need to cap off unneeded coolant nipples. I got some silicon blanking caps and some Gates Powergrip shrink to fit hose clamps and capped them all off.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12038511_10203898731863563_9118561902866244551_n.j pg?oh=55f986fd2c4ccb0505bf055fc40c9a8d&oe=56A88539

While I was at it, I capped off the line intended for the transmission cooler that comes off the water pipe between the pump and passage.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/12017554_10203906683142340_2437558188626089821_o.j pg

Also of note since I brought up the Gates Powergrips, I picked up enough to do all of the radiator and heater hoses too, and a bunch extra for on hand spares. Zoro.com is really the place to get them, as they charge about half what autoparts stores and places like jegs charge, plus free shipping when you spend $49.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12004902_10203891435401156_6233251125628367012_n.j pg?oh=a6b6516892ae69b48724374259198b82&oe=5669A618

Last up is dealing with the Temp gauge sensor. Honda has a temperature sensor that feeds the ECU, and then the ECU feeds the gauge, but that doesn't work for the Miata gauge. An easy fix is simply bringing over the Miata gauge sensor and finding a good place to install it.


The water passage has a nice spot for it that is tapped on some J series engines, but not mine.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12019902_10203906683382346_6896178183985185673_n.j pg?oh=88cd8eed4caa9857cd041c15d69dbaef&oe=566A7938

The Miata sensor is 1/8" BSP tapered thread, so I picked up a tap and went to town. A few minutes later, we had this:

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12004727_10203906683422347_7873017124595557217_n.j pg?oh=8b1f466b178f4fecef2dc22ae2068ffc&oe=56AA8880

Also done but not photographed was the addition of a new thermostat and gasket. You may have noticed from a prior pic that the thermostat housing bolts were making contact with the water passage. The long bolts are made to work with the OEM thermostat cover, but are just way to long for the Minitech one. I turned to my bin of old Miata nuts and bolts and found some shorter ones that worked perfectly. *Side note- I have come to the conclusion that the biggest benefit to parting out a Miata is the wonderful supply of metric hardware it gives you. It saves me from a trip to the store and a regular basis.


I need to go back and add some PTFE tape to the sensor threads, but other than that, the water passage is ready to be reinstalled on the engine.


All done!
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/12030285_10203906683982361_2245104256508298916_o.j pg

riefdaddy
09-19-2015, 07:26 AM
What is that long black line between the temp sending unit and the egr plate? It looks like a huge crack, but maybe rtv? Very interesting build that I'm enjoying watching. :)

Titus
09-19-2015, 08:59 AM
What is that long black line between the temp sending unit and the egr plate? It looks like a huge crack, but maybe rtv? Very interesting build that I'm enjoying watching. :)
Black sharpie lol. Another guy with the kit had the whole egr portion of the water passage cut off and the egr passages welded up. It looked nice and created more room for plumbing. I marked off the area to be removed and got a quote from the welder, but he gave me an "I don't want to do it" price. I had another guy I could have taken to, but decided to just slap the plate on it and move on.

Titus
02-07-2016, 10:42 AM
OK, It is time to get this thread caught up.

Crimping

Not long after I posted about my soldering of connector pins, It was pointed out that I really should be crimping them with a proper crimper. I picked up this Eclipse Tools 300-005 Ratcheted Crimper from Amazon.
http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_17_crimper_1.jpg

It handles 10-20 gauge pins and does a double crimp. Here is what the teeth look like up close.
http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_17_crimper_2.jpg

It does a really great job. All of the pins I had soldered were cut off and replaced with properly crimped pins.
http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_17_crimper_3.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 10:48 AM
Clutch work

I went to install the Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing next. This lead to an imediate issue, as it turns out that the pilot bearing installs from the back of the flywheel. The Flywheel was removed, pilot bearing was installed, flywheel was reinstalled, clutch disk was installed, and pressure plate was installed. The clutch disk is for a 1.8 Miata, while the flywheel and pressure plate are Honda B Series.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_09_Clutch-e1454856839721.jpg


Next the new throwout bearing was installed. I believe it is also from a Honda B Series. The tabs need to be bent in a little to work with the Miata transmission.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_09_TOB-e1454856906514.jpg

Prior transmission test fits were done without the water manifold in place. Now that it is installed, I needed to trim the top of the Miata transmission to clear the bottom of the thermostat housing.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_09_Transmission_trim.jpg

The Clutch slave install in the stock location on the transmission, but you need to use 2 spacer provided with the kit to clear the engine. I had to also pick up a pair of longer bolts (not included with kit) to get it to bolt on.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_09_Slave.jpg

The Clutch and brake masters were reinstalled and the clutch system was bled.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_09_Masters.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 10:57 AM
The Intake Manifold has been a crazy journey.

First, I intended to flip the manifold and have the throttle body mount modified to clear the hood, as was done in one of the prototypes. I sent the stock manifold off to Minitec, and they modifying it and shipped it back to me.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_04_16_1_Intake_Manifold.jpg

It was a few months before I actually tried the hood on the car, and found that even with the modification, it was not even close to clearing the hood.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/hood-contact.jpg

Another person was also experiencing the same issue. It was discussed at length, and many pictures and measurements were taken. We could never figure out why it worked on Minitecs prototype car and not others. The idea was eventually scrapped, and I shipped it back to them again. The TB neck was removed, a plate was welded in its place, and a fancy new aluminum piece was shipped to me to replace the driver's side plenum.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_30_Intake_2.jpg
http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_30_Intake_1.jpg

The inside of the ports were even ported to match the mini horns of the stock piece that was removed.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_09_30_Intake_3.jpg

Once on, it looked great.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2015_10_05_Intake_test.jpg

It seemed to fit perfectly, but I found out otherwise once I went to install wiring on the car. While it clears the COP coils without the harness installed, it did not clear the bulky plugs. What to do?

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2016_01_17_Intake_Mod_1.jpg

A torch, the end of a broom handle, a mallet, and 5 minutes later, and we were good to go.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/2016_01_17_Intake_Mod_2.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 11:24 AM
Starter and Alternator

The Mazda starter and Alternator cables do not reach the Honda start and alternator. I really didn't like the idea of cutting and extending these wires, but I saw a clever alternative on Andy Hollis's K-Miata build and had my plan.

First I picked up these.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_095154.jpg

They are 3ft 6 gauge cable wiring with ring terminals preinstalled, designed for an inverter. I choose these because they were on clearance from amazon for $8, but there are many similar options out there. One will be for the starter and one for the Alternator. I didn't want a big red wire in the engine bay, so I took a long black heat shrink tube and covered the red up.

I grabbed the first cable and bolted one end to the Alternator.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_174000.jpg

For the other end, I bolted the ring of the new cable to the stock Miata Alternator ring. I wrapped it in electrical tape for now but when I do wire cleanup and final routing, I will put some heat shrink over the connection.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_174019.jpg

The starter is a similar situation, but the Miata terminal is not a ring. It is bent into an L shape and has a pointy side. First, I bent it flat.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_174053.jpg


Then I hit the pointy end with the grinder before bolting it to my new extension cable.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_185319.jpg


The second wire for the starer is also too short. This is a lighter gauge wire, so I felt better about extending it. It also has a plastic connector on it that prevents it from working on the Honda starter. The spade inside the connector is perfect, you just need to remove it from the plastic connector case.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_182316.jpg

Finally, the 2 wires are connected to the Starter.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160129_185409.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 12:44 PM
As you may recall, I wired in an 8 pin connector to the Honda Harness. It contained wires for the following:

-Permanent 12v for the ECU
-12v on/start power for the coils
-12v on/start power for the Injectors
-12v on/start power signal to the Alternator
-Alternator dash indicator
-Radiator Fan Switch A
-Radiator Fan Switch B
-Radiator Fan control from ECU

First for Permanent 12V. If you take the cover off of the engine bay fuse box, you find that the 80A main fuse is bolted in. A ring connector can easily be bolted in there and get the direct power needed.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160131_124733.jpg

I didn't like the idea of 80A of power available to the ECU, so I added an inline fuse.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160131_123749.jpg


Second, I needed 12v on/start power for the coils, Injectors and signal to the Alternator. Looking at the Acura wiring diagram, they are originally 15A fused. I found that the Blue wire running to the Mazda coil pack was 30A fused, heavy gauge, and 12v on/start. You have to strip some tape off of it to really see, but it goes from about 10g to 16g a few inched from the plug. Clip the smaller wire off the end and it is just what I wanted.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160130_131118.jpg

I wanted to fuse them at 15A like shown in the wiring diagram, so I picked up a 6-way fuse box off of Amazon. The Mazda coil wire provides power for all of the fuses. I have connected the power wires for the coils and Injectors and the signal to the Alternator each to their own 15A fuse, and I have 3 more 12v slots sitting ready in case I ever need them.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160130_131722.jpg

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160130_134050.jpg


For the alternator dash indicator wire, I don't have a picture of it but I simply took the equivalent wire from the Mazda alternator plug and ran it to my custom 8 pin connector.

As for the 3 fan signal wires, I added wires to the 8-pin connector for them, but I haven't actually connected them to the Mazda fan relay. It isn't needed for a engine start test, so it can wait until later.

Here are the 8pin connectors all wired up and connected.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160207_103941.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 03:45 PM
The Honda harness needs to make its way into the cabin. I originally thought that I would use the existing hole that the Mazda harness goes through, but I have since realized that even after I remove every unneeded wire from the Mazda harness (a future project), I still will need another hole.

I picked my spot, put some painters tape over it to prevent paint chipping, grabbed a hole saw, and started drilling.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160131_164342.jpg

Unfortunately I didn't realize immediately that the hole saw I grabbed was made for wood. It made it about halfway through before its teeth were worthless. A quick trip to the hardware store for a hole saw rated for metal, and I was in. The Honda harness came with a nice big grommet and mounting ring already on it. I put it in temporarily to drill the mounting holes, and then pulled it back off. Next I added some black touch-up paint to the bare metal edges to prevent rusting. Finally, it was permanently mounted.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160131_202314.jpg

Titus
02-07-2016, 06:50 PM
WARNING- This post has way too much painful details and gave me a headache just writing it. Casual followers may want to skip it.

I previously covered several connections between the Honda Harness and the car via an 8 pin connector I added in the engine bay, but that is only half the connections. Here is what is wasn't included in that:
-Fuel pump relay
-Engine speed pulse
-Starter switch signal
-AC Input
-Oil pressure sender
-MIATA TEMP SENSOR
-Wide band #1 signal
-Wide band #2 signal

Each of these connections take place in the cabin of the car, or are independent of the Honda harness. This entry will cover the first 3 that have been completed, along with the plans for the others. NOTE- Several of these connections are via the ECU's A Plug. The A Plug did not come with the harness, as it is part of the dash harness on the Acura. I previously posted about purchasing one new.

Fuel Pump Relay- The AEM is set up with a pin on the A Plug that goes to ground to trigger a fuel pump relay. For the 1.6 Miata, there is a LT GRN wire at the fuel pump relay under that triggers the relay when it goes to ground. It typically finds it's way to ground via the AFM or the diagnostic port. I tapped in to this wire with a new green wire and ran it over near the ECU (more on this in a minute). I chose to tap instead of replace because I wanted to maintain the ability to trigger the pump via the diagnostic port.

Engine speed pulse- The AEM has an output for engine speed pulse on the A Plug. I'm hoping that I will be able to adjust that signal in the AEM to allow it to properly drive the Miata Tach, but I will figure that out later. To get the signal to the tach, you don't actually need to get near the instrument cluster. It's signal comes in to the dash harness via a YEL/BLU wire at the a plug under the passenger side of the dash to the right of the glove box. I was able to remove the pin from the car side of the plug. I actually had a YEL/BLU wire with pin on it that had been removed from the Honda harness that I was able to snap right in to the Miata plug. By going this way, I am able to connect to the tach without adding a new connector between the dash and car. That will be useful when the dash is removed in the future.

Here you can see the connector referenced, with the old YEL/BLU wire taped off and the new one in place.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160207_103431.jpg

For connecting the Fuel pump and tach wires discussed above to the the A Plug, I wanted to have the ability to disconnect them. Below is the plug I used. On the left, you can see the GRN and YEL/BLU wires coming it, and the right side they are run to the A Plug.

NOTE- I bought a bag full of these plugs online, I am not happy with them, and will probably replace them eventually, but they will do for now.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160207_103544.jpg

Starter switch signal- The AEM needs to get a starter switch signal through the A Plug. For the 1.6 Miata, I found that the violet wire at 1C of the Miata ECU can cover this.

A/C- For the 1.6 Miata, you can bypass the ECU by connecting the wires at 1Q (LT GRN/BLK) and 1J (BLU/BLK). I have done this, but I also eventually want the ECU to know when AC is on so it can adjust idle. The AEM has an A/C Input pin on the A Plug, but I don't yet fully understand how it works and if I can simply connect it to where 1Q and 1J are connected. Just in case it is that easy, I have taped off wires right next to each other and ready for a butt connector.

Below you can see another 2 pin connector in use. The violet wire for the starter switch signal goes to the A plug through here, and you can also see the taped off A/C wires that come through it.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160207_103729.jpg

The ones left to do:

Oil pressure sender- This will be simple once the Miata Oil Pressure sender is installed on the V6. I will just need to run a single wire from the sender and connect it to the YEL/RED wire that was originally used in the Miata harness to carry this signal to the instrument cluster. This connection will be done in the engine bay.

MIATA TEMP SENSOR- Another simple one. I will run a single wire from the the sensor to BLK/BLU wire in the Mazda harness that originally carried this signal to the instrument cluster. Again, this connection will be done in the engine bay.

Wide band #1 signal- This is an input via the A Plug. I ran a wire/pin into the A Plug for it, so I am ready when I install the Wide band.

-Wide band #2 signal- The AEM has a pin ready for a second wide band. I don't know if I will run 2 for use, but it would improve tuning if I had one off each header. I ran a wire/pin into the A Plug for it, so I am ready If I install a second one.

Titus
02-07-2016, 07:04 PM
The Fuel Pressure regulator is normally mounted to the back of the passenger side head, right above where the the heater hoses will need to run. I decided I wanted to relocate it so I had more room back there. The hoses have been temporarily connected in preparation for the first start, but it is just hanging in mid-air there. You will also notice the hoses are currently much longer than needed. That allows me to play around with different mounting location ideas. Once it finds its final home, the hoses will be shortened.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160207_104020.jpg

Titus
02-15-2016, 08:24 PM
The MAP, TPS, and IAC all get moved about 18 inches with the relocation of the throttle body. Each of these wires needed to be extended. I hate tracing issues with wires that change colors, so I wanted to find exact matches for,each wire getting extended. First, I dug through the box of wires that had been removed from the harness and found matches for all but 3 wires. Then I turned to EFIConnection.com. They are the best source I have found for short lengths of automotive TXL wire in various color combos. With the right wire, I spliced in extensions using uninsulated butt connectors and 2 layers of shrink tubing.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160214_115318.jpg

Titus
02-15-2016, 08:49 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnpkDy23g7Y

NCGreasemonkey
02-15-2016, 11:33 PM
Makes me want to break out the tape and see if there is enough room between the rails for an '02 H-6 in the go-kart. But when I walk out I see this...

http://i.imgur.com/m8xzTsw.jpg

No measuring tonight! :cry2:

Sharpie
02-16-2016, 11:15 AM
Like I said elsewhere, Great work Todd, glad to hear it run. It sounds great!

Titus
02-17-2016, 02:57 PM
Like I said elsewhere, Great work Todd, glad to hear it run. It sounds great!

Thanks Sharpie!

Titus
02-18-2016, 11:00 PM
I tackled installing the exhaust tonight. First up was new studs in the exhaust manifolds. Some were missing and the others didn’t look so hot, so I got all new ones. I ran a thread repair tool through the holes first to clean them up. The passenger side studs went in easy, but the steering linkage makes the drivers side a pain. I ender up pulling it off to install them.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160218_203719.jpg

Once those were taken care of, the Y pipe from the kit slid right in place with the included new gasket rings. Getting the bolts tightened involved an interesting combination of extension, flex joint, and flex wrench, but I managed.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/wp-1455853307100.jpg

It’s now all in.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160218_212854.jpg

It included a plate to be welded on for mating with the cat, but it looks like it won’t be close enough on my car to make the connection. I’m not too concerned, as I planned on taking it to someone to modify for additional clearance any way.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/wp-1455853857465.jpg

Titus
02-21-2016, 12:48 PM
Mazda Harness Cleanup- Drivers Side

There are several things in the Mazda harness that you still need, but others that are no longer needed. The drivers side and passenger side are separate, so I decided to clean up the easier drivers side first.

First step was to remove all of the factory tape and plastic tubing holding the harness together. This is a long dirty job.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160221_083840.jpg

Next step was removing what wasn’t needed. I wanted to COMPLETELY remove the unneeded wires, but I quickly realized that was more work than I was willing to take on. I ended up cutting each wire, folding the end back on itself, and covered in heat shrink. They are then taped in to the harness. This was done to the AFM, cruise control, air bag, and side indicator wire, as I am not using any of theses.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160221_083852.jpg

Next I wrapped the wires in fresh electrical tape the way I wanted it to be.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160221_094845.jpg

Next it needed to be covered. I am not a fan of the factory style tubing, so I went with a product called Techflex F6. I am very happy with it. It has a split in it, and coils over it self nicely. I recommend a hot knife for cutting it as it does fray if you don’t melt the end. I finished the ends off with silicone tape for a clean look.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160221_094918.jpg

Along the way, I also gave the diagnostic connector bracket a coat of paint and reinstalled the headlight.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160221_110834.jpg

I need to get some new anchors before I can call this side done, but that is about it.

Titus
02-27-2016, 03:22 PM
Pardon the intermission… I seem to have fallen down the rabbit hole.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160227_105328.jpg

kung fu jesus
02-27-2016, 03:53 PM
Man, I thought about doing this. The only feasible way for me would have been to pegboard the spare harness and trace each wire from the one in the car. Sort of redundant, but I would have room to work.

Titus
03-05-2016, 10:26 AM
The harness work under the dash didn’t end up being so bad. It was time consuming work that left my fingers sticky and sore, but I managed to get all of the unneeded Mazda wires that go to the passanger side completely removed from the harness. What was left was rapped up and reattached to the firewall.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160227_165738.jpg

Before reinstalling the dash, I disassembled the 3 hvac boxes, cleaned them, and applied new weather stripping. The AC box was the worst of them.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160304_173942.jpg

Once they were reinstalled, the dash went back in and I gave it another startup test to make sure it still ran after surgery. All was good, so now I can move forward with final passanger side engine bay wiring wrapping and routing.

Titus
03-06-2016, 07:30 PM
I got the passenger side engine bay wiring wrapped this weekend, along with reinstalling the headlights, fans, and radiator overflow. The oem overflow is nasty looking. It will do for now, but I am looking at aftermarket options. If I can’t find anything I like, I may just get a new oem one.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160306_180227.jpg

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160306_180238.jpg

RustRat
03-07-2016, 12:35 AM
About the overflow tank, as I happen to have this conversation with @harryb about a week ago, there are some things you can do.

1. Oem plastic tank.
2. aftermarket metal tank (like Moroso)
3. You can get a universal expansion tank from ebay or your local parts store, in the shape of a soda bottle, and mount it vertical next to your radiator with some brackets.

I'll can provide some links, if you want me to.

Titus
03-07-2016, 09:04 AM
3. You can get a universal expansion tank from ebay or your local parts store, in the shape of a soda bottle, and mount it vertical next to your radiator with some brackets.

I'll can provide some links, if you want me to.

I have been looking at the universals a little, but so far I have not seen any good documentation of universal installs in a Miata. If you have any links to anything like that, I would love to see them.

Titus
03-21-2016, 09:05 AM
I am behind on my write-ups, but got a few things written up last night.

Sway bar reinstall

Even after a good cleaning, my 13 year old Flyin Miata front sway bar is looking pretty sad.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160312_134631.jpg

What should have been a 5 minute step in my reassembly turned in to hours. Even though I thought I had done a good job bagging and labeling bolts, I just could not find 2 of the end link bolts. After a few hours of searching everywhere, I remembered that I had a set of end links in a box of parts from a 96m I parted out years ago. I pull them out and find they still had the nuts and bolts attached to them. 5 minutes later and the sway bar was back in the car.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160312_150527.jpg

It is hard to tell from the pic, but it clears the pulleys by a good 3/4″.

Titus
03-21-2016, 09:09 AM
Throttle cable modification

The throttle cable needs some mods to work. First is the throttle body side.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_141431.jpg

You need to cut off both the rubber piece, and the metal bushing that slides in to it.

Once those are out of the way, it bolts right up.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_144042.jpg

With this done, you quickly realize the cable is about 3 inches too long, and you really only have about +/- 3/4″ adjustment. This is caused by the mounting point being closer to the Acura throttle body than the Miata throttle body.

Unless you have the skills to do the fancy barrel cable ends like used at the throttle body end, you need to shorten the cable from the peddle end. This means you first need to remove it from the car, which is a real pain. The stupid firewall clip is my worst enemy. It may be marginally easier with the dash out, but I have reinstalled the dash twice so I was not going there. The only advice I can give is letting you know that there are 4 clipping points that need to be compressed at once, all from the inside of the car. 2 on top that you push down and 2 on bottom that you push up.

Once out, I cut off the amount needed and followed a write-up I found on line for making a new solder ball. It involved first sticking the old ball into playdough to make a mold.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_151131.jpg

It was then removed and the cable was slid in to place.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_152339.jpg

No pictures of the solder melt because I don’t have enough hands, but I basically filled the hole with liquid flux and then hit it with a torch while feeding 5050 lead solder in. In the write-up I was following, it said the playdough wouldn’t burn, but mine looked like a toasted marshmallow in seconds. Might be because I was using a hotter torch? Regardless, it worked.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_152859.jpg

After a little cleanup on the grinder, the ball fit right in to the plastic retainer. It also is on there very securely.

http://www.v6miata.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/20160320_153124.jpg

A few minutes later it was in the car and working perfectly, and I was off to the next item on my list.

MLambert19
03-21-2016, 10:12 AM
Thanks for this! I may have to do similar to get my Jenvey setup working, so this was extremely helpful!

Titus
03-21-2016, 07:27 PM
Glad to help!