Help with replacing head gasket on a 2000 Miata

[Packrat456]

Trying to find information on replacing a blown head gasket on a 2000 Mazda Miata. Can someone steer me in the right direction?

[freedomgli]

I'd start with the factory service manual for detailed R&R instructions. The gasket itself isn't very expensive. But it's a pretty big job to disconnect everything to pull the head and have it checked over and probably machined for flatness. You'll have to ask yourself what else is worthwhile doing while you've got your motor torn half apart. Are you due for a timing belt / water pump service? Valve job? Complete overhaul? What is the root cause of the blown head gasket? Are you having cooling system issues that also need to be addressed?

[Packrat456]

Is it possible to find a free factory service manual somewhere?

[Demon I Am]

With Google, anything is possible: http://www.mellens.net/mazda/index.html

What a time to be alive! :teehee:

[Packrat456]

With Google, anything is possible: http://www.mellens.net/mazda/index.html

What a time to be alive! :teehee:
Thanks. I had found that site last fall, and I looked for an hour and a half yesterday and couldn't find it for nothing. I had even bookmarked it back then and it wasn't there..
And it's definitely a great time to be alive!

[kung fu jesus]

Freedom is on point there. The main concern is whether or not the head was warped, the problem that caused it is fixed, and how much extra you want to do.

Besides the front motor refresh (timing belt and seals), I think an important upgrade is using head studs, like ARP studs, instead of the OEM head bolts. IIRC, the OE head bolts are stretch to yield and one-time use only, but check that for certainty. If the head checks out fine, mabe have it shaved a touch or little more for a compression bump. If you want to refresh the whole upper engine, disassemble the intake manifold and have it tanked or professionally cleaned before reinstalling. I beilieve most of the IM gaskets are metal and *can* be reused if undamaged.

With the head off, you can also gently clean the piston crowns to eliminate any carbon deposits, too.

I hope it isn't anything too serious, good luck!

[Packrat456]

Freedom is on point there. The main concern is whether or not the head was warped, the problem that caused it is fixed, and how much extra you want to do.

Besides the front motor refresh (timing belt and seals), I think an important upgrade is using head studs, like ARP studs, instead of the OEM head bolts. IIRC, the OE head bolts are stretch to yield and one-time use only, but check that for certainty. If the head checks out fine, mabe have it shaved a touch or little more for a compression bump. If you want to refresh the whole upper engine, disassemble the intake manifold and have it tanked or professionally cleaned before reinstalling. I beilieve most of the IM gaskets are metal and *can* be reused if undamaged.

With the head off, you can also gently clean the piston crowns to eliminate any carbon deposits, too.

I hope it isn't anything too serious, good luck!
Thank you. I have never torn down an overhead cam engine before, several V8 engines way back in high school but nothing since then. So any and all advice is definitely welcomed. I will definitely be checking out the head for warpage because I really don't want to be doing this again any time soon.

[kung fu jesus]

I haven't fully disassembled an NB1 head before, but have done a b6 head.

If you DO disassemble it, the most important, singular step to success is labeling and grouping the parts together. The shims, lifters, valves, springs and keepers must go back to their original spots. The cam caps especially, including their orientation.

It isn't hard. Just have to pay attention, rent a valve spring compressor, and just take your time. I reassembled my reworked head at the kitchen table while mildly watching a movie. Thousands of hard-driven miles later, she's still running great. :)

[Packrat456]

Is it possible to clean the antifreeze out of the oil pan without removing it?

[freedomgli]

Most people just drain the oil and refill with new oil and then cross their fingers and hope for the best. Anything less than a full teardown, clean, repair and rebuild will not give 100% certainty that everything is in tip top condition. But if you're okay to just roll the dice (and save a ton of $$$ vs. a full rebuild) then maybe try one of the engine flush options like BG Quick Clean for Engines or BG Engine Purge or some other similar product. You should probably do a complete cooling system flush as well.

[marathonboats]

I agree with you that Most people just drain the oil and refill with new oil and then cross their fingers and hope for the best.

[Stickbuilder]

Freedom is on point there. The main concern is whether or not the head was warped, the problem that caused it is fixed, and how much extra you want to do.

Besides the front motor refresh (timing belt and seals), I think an important upgrade is using head studs, like ARP studs, instead of the OEM head bolts. IIRC, the OE head bolts are stretch to yield and one-time use only, but check that for certainty. If the head checks out fine, mabe have it shaved a touch or little more for a compression bump. If you want to refresh the whole upper engine, disassemble the intake manifold and have it tanked or professionally cleaned before reinstalling. I beilieve most of the IM gaskets are metal and *can* be reused if undamaged.

With the head off, you can also gently clean the piston crowns to eliminate any carbon deposits, too.

I hope it isn't anything too serious, good luck!

The NB cylinder head bolts ARE NOT torque to yield units. They are plain specified torque units and may be reused again. While ARP studs are certainly fine fastners, we do not make enough cylinder pressure to justify their use unless you are adding a super/turbo charger.