Suspension bushings: To swap or not-to-swap, that is the question.

[MLambert19]

My 11K-mile 1991 is finally getting pulled apart, and the builder asked today whether I would be replacing suspension bushings.

The car is a dry-kept Idaho car, but it is almost 30 years old.

I don't want the abusive ride or the maintenance of greasing polyurethane bushings (despite the V8, this is going to be a street car). But I'd consider new OEM or OEM+ rubber.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

It's also a question whether I should have the arms powder-coated while everything is apart, if in-fact, I do swap them.

Thanks for the input everyone, I hope summer "roadster-season" is treating everyone well,

-Matt

[Greasemonkey2000]

If it's going to be apart then I would DEFINITELY do the bushings. Nothing wrong with OEM bushings but at least they will be brand new and not nearly 30yr old ones.:shocked: IIRC, the IL Motorsports bushings are cheaper and slightly higher durometer which is a win-win, imo.

Personally I would also have the control arms powder coated.

[kung fu jesus]

Would go with ILM bushings as mentioned above, wouldn’t powdercoat, just paint.

[HarryB]

I will second the IL bushings; that's what I have (but not yet installed) for my street car as well. Regarding painting, I would assume that 11k miles and dry-kept means the original paint is still in good shape. In that case I would not touch them at all.

[Slampen]

and if installing the IL bushing for the diff, remember to have the correct tools.....

:p

[SigmaX]

30 year old rubber is 30 year old rubber. Definitely replace.

[Roadster7]

Yes. Mazda Comp or IL Motorsports is you best bet for OEM+. Both options are more stiff than factory bushings, but the price is wildly different. I'm not a baller so I went with ILM. You can't go wrong with either choice.

[Infedora]

Replace. I’m with the ILM group. Huge improvement and given what you’re doing a good choice. I’m going to throw in a plug for the Paco strongarms that FM sells also. Really made a huge difference in my 90 as did the usual frame rail bracing.

[MLambert19]

and if installing the IL bushing for the diff, remember to have the correct tools.....

:p

The diff is a 3.42 Getrag from GM, so I don't think I'll be using ILM parts, but thank you for the head's up!

-Matt

[MLambert19]

Replace. I’m with the ILM group. Huge improvement and given what you’re doing a good choice. I’m going to throw in a plug for the Paco strongarms that FM sells also. Really made a huge difference in my 90 as did the usual frame rail bracing.

I have a set of V8Roadster's front braces that I pulled from my Turbo BRG when I re-installed the airbag equipment, so those will be going on. If it weren't for that, I might have done the Paco pieces, they look solid. I'm hoping the V8R cradle ties things together well, too.

-Matt

[MLambert19]

I will second the IL bushings; that's what I have (but not yet installed) for my street car as well. Regarding painting, I would assume that 11k miles and dry-kept means the original paint is still in good shape. In that case I would not touch them at all.

Al seems to think all suspension arms look good under the dust right now, but if he replaces the bushings he thinks the torch may make an appearance, which will wreak havoc on the paint. I'm currently thinking just cleaning them and applying some of the Summit Chassis-Black enamel ($9/16oz) as recommended by Tom's Turbo Garage might do the trick.

-Matt

[HarryB]

No need to torch them; Miata bushings do not have metal sleeves so they press out fairly easy. Make sure to support the a-arm bore on the other side though when pressing them out, as you may bend the a-arm if you do not.

[DarylSibcy]

I was in the same boat a couple of years ago. 60k miles in UK weather though. The bushings are 30 years old either way and rubber deteriorates. I’ve had the IL Motorsport bushings since. Major improvement in suspension performance, they feel like stock but there’s less roll and they reset quicker.

Not an “end all be all” situation, but with every other suspension mod I’ve made it really adds up.

[MLambert19]

No need to torch them; Miata bushings do not have metal sleeves so they press out fairly easy. Make sure to support the a-arm bore on the other side though when pressing them out, as you may bend the a-arm if you do not.

Al did say that my axles were the first he's ever had come out so easily... I think he's used to working with much higher mileage examples.

-Matt

[MLambert19]

...and they're ordered. I purchased through Flyin' Miata at $459 shipped, minus whatever the "Spend all the money, get discounts later, goats-and-stuff club discount" is.

-Matt

[Roadster7]

Good choice.