330Ci ZHP

[kung fu jesus]

I’m starting my stewardship of the latest acquisition. It would be my sixth go-around with BMW and my second e46 (99-05 3-series). My previous models were an ‘81 320i (e21), ‘86 325i (e30), ‘88 325is (e30), ‘95 M3 (e36), ‘05 325it (e46), and this…2005 330ci ZHP.

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Sometimes referred to as ‘the last of the good BMWs’, it is a progressive refinement of the 3 series models that originated from the fabled 2002 model.

Why would I do this? Give up on a well-sorted, dual purpose NB for a car known for its douchey ownership base and questionable reliability? I love the vehicle dynamics of these cars. Agile and sporty, yet strong enough to be thrashed by the scruff of its neck. They are entertaining and even rewarding to drive at its limits. It is also sophisticated yet luxurious enough to placidly cruise on the freeway all day in reassuring poise and comfort.

The ZHP is a limited package offered in 03-06 (04-05 on the coupes, 06 was the carryover convertible chassis only) as a bit of a swan song and offered unique upgrades. This meant a slight bump in power(235hp), M-Sport aerodynamics from the M3, special interior package, and unique paint options. The Sports suspension is a revised geometry, dampers, springs, and sway bars shared with the //M variants. An exclusive ZF 6speed manual transmission option previously only available to the M3.

The ZHP package was available on e46 sedans, coupes and convertibles. Here are the composite production numbers:

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My particular car, a sparkling graphite metallic coupe, 6 sp manual, with grey leather interior is 1 of 19 as optioned. It doesn’t make it a collector’s car, but it is pretty unique and desirable as optioned. It would be considered a “future classic” as I think a lot of Miatas are. There were a LOT produced, but not many in this style and options. Given the attrition over time, the popularity of the Spec e46 racing series in the US, and the 1 - owner history of my particular car, it’s special and I’m extraordinarily fortunate to have it.

I bought this car from the original owner. He special-ordered it after experiencing sticker shock shopping for an M3. It has lived in Georgia all its life, very detailed and comprehensive dealership repairs, zero accidents. The owner was transitioning into retirement, and it was just dumb luck I saw his ad 20 minutes after he posted it.

This one has subtle, quality upgrades (Dinan intake, bracing and stage 2 software), 100,300 miles, and was well-loved.

I was originally looking for a 128i with a 6sp manual, but was watching e46 coupes too. Both are pretty hard to find in my experience, especially clean, well-cared for, and I was looking coast to coast. This one was 45 minutes from my door, literally around the corner from where I adopted my current two greyhounds.

I bought the car the same visit I first saw it, and I have thoroughly enjoyed driving it these past two weeks. :)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/ccb6d602ce3a5502ac2b3433e1d7c65e.jpg

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[kung fu jesus]

Currently, I am just familiarizing myself with the car. For all intents and purposes, it feels like my e36 M3 mechanically with the better interior of my e46 wagon. The 6 speed in this car feels better than any 5 sp in my previous BMWs, stock or modified.

My commute to work, I cruise at 2800 RPMs at 80 mph in this versus 4200 in the Miata. The interior is hushed, the chassis is incredibly stiff, and the torque of the inline 6 allows me to creep in stop and go or pass at will without constantly rowing the gearbox.

The biggest downfall is the ICE. The car is equipped with a decent Harman Kardon 10 speaker system, but smartphone integration is negligible. This is something I rely on not only for commuting, but in-car entertainment as well.

To remedy this, I purchased and installed an Eonon 9450 head unit. It is Android and CarPlay capable, works with the factory steering wheel controls, and fits the interior aesthetic. I installed it the weekend and it has some really neat features I will utilize soon (Torque app real-time OBD2 monitoring and datalogging, front and rear camera expandability, split-screen capabilities)

The capacitive screen is very responsive and the OS loads quickly when starting the car. I have only just began to use it, but I am pleased with it so far. I did have to buy a relocation trim set to accommodate this. It basically deleted a tiny storage cubby in order to move the HVAC controls down along with the seat heater, stability controls. A small price to pay to install a 2 DIN headunit and integrated USB.

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[kung fu jesus]

People ask me what my plans are for this car. I tend to do some pretty dramatic modifications. ;)

Honestly, I really like the car as it sits so anything I do will be judicious and well-considered. Obviously, like all my previous cars, resetting the maintenance is priority #1. This requires little of that, but tierods and front control arm bushings are already on order, a fairly easy job to me.

Beyond that, I am going to have the steering wheel re-wrapped by a local company that specializes in this for BMWs.

I intend to track this car, so a suspension/bushing refresh may be in order, but I need to assess the state of it more beforehand.

In terms of modifications, *maybe* cooling system upgrades for reliability and top-shelf coilovers. Coilovers for handling, not for appearance.

As current, these options penciled in are an all-aluminum radiator, replacing some of the plastics in the cooling system to take some of the added stresses of the track environment. Coilovers I have been eyeing at first glance are KW Variant, Ohlin Street&Track, and AST 5000 Series. I am still considering replacing the OE Sport dampers with new units.

[ScratchNSniff]

Very very nice. One of the cars I've considered getting for a loooooong time too. Excited to see how you only improve on this one.

[Agent☣Orange]

Great intro to your new project! I know all too well about the douchey ownership base of my car but I love the vehicle dynamics as well. You got a beautiful ride there. Can't wait to hear a sound clip of that engine.

No exhaust in your upgrades list?

That aftermarket stereo looks factory. Good job. Was that originally a 1.5 DIN opening?

[kung fu jesus]

Thanks!

I’ve never been impressed with aftermarket exhausts on BMWs. There isn’t much to gain other than weight savings and sound.

I tried a few on the M3, but they were boomy and just noisy. When I had that car, one of the systems I tried would set off the neighbors car alarm across the street when I fired it up. The system in my 325is sounded very nice, but was a tad boomy at cruising speeds.

The only exhaust I’ve ever been impressed with on these cars are the Eisenmann exhausts and they are stupid-pricey.

https://youtu.be/uc06OrhACDo

I don’t think I will do one, there isn’t much return to the expense.

[kung fu jesus]

Here is a good synopsis of what the ZHP is from an article written in 2019:

https://www.gearpatrol.com/cars/a534034/affordable-dream-car-bmw-330i-zhp/

I totally understand the appeal of the //M models, I really enjoyed mine. There are some drawbacks though; special parts and characteristics that also add to the performance add additional costs and upkeep. Every jackhole with a modified car wants to benchmark their car by racing you at every stoplight. It gets tiring.

Would I like an e46 M3? Yeah, but the known flaws with the car would always be looming in the back of my mind like an impending storm. I can’t really use a high-performance car as it was meant to be used in day-to-day driving.

Maybe that sounds like justification for settling for less, but I like to fly under the radar, make the most with less and utilize what I do have…also wouldn’t look forward to re-shelling the crankshaft on an e46 M3 or swapping out an SMG trans for a manual.

[MiataQuest]

During my wallet draining and garage time fling with (3) 80's Audi 5000 Quattros, I found the perfect exhaust was the stock exhaust with the Helmholtz resonators but use a test pipe for the catalytic converter. The sound was perfect.
Then I kept a large quantity of quality donut hangers on hand since they would always fail.

The Audi 5000's was a joy to drive but an over-engineering pile of manure when it came to problems.
At first I enjoyed the challenge, but it took up too much of my time to daily drive them.

[kung fu jesus]

Small project for tonight, I reupholstered the grungy armrest.

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The color matches better than the pics show.

[Agent☣Orange]

I never noticed how bad that was originally but sure looks great now.

Cup holders could use a little love:


https://smile.amazon.com/WINKA-Coasters-Silicone-Holders-Universal/dp/B07XBKHWX4/ref=psdc_318296011_t3_B07WLCFBMF
23230

[kung fu jesus]

Holiday weekend! Nothing like spinning wrenches on a foreign car to mark a rebellion!

I ordered new tie rods (inner & outer), boots, and lower control arm bushings (LCABs). I prefer to use Lemforder brand products on these systems, OE supplier and very good quality from previous experience. FCP Euro is who I ordered from, they offer lifetime replacement on these.

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There are a couple of other projects lined up, too, but I am waiting for delivery later today.

Should have updates later this weekend!

[kung fu jesus]

During my wallet draining and garage time fling with (3) 80's Audi 5000 Quattros, I found the perfect exhaust was the stock exhaust with the Helmholtz resonators but use a test pipe for the catalytic converter. The sound was perfect.
Then I kept a large quantity of quality donut hangers on hand since they would always fail.

The Audi 5000's was a joy to drive but an over-engineering pile of manure when it came to problems.
At first I enjoyed the challenge, but it took up too much of my time to daily drive them.

When my family moved out of the city and to the ‘burbs, we lived very close to the (at the time) North American HQ for Audi.

Needless to say, there were a lot of Audis and VWs around that area the same vintage as yours.

[Agent☣Orange]

Control arm bushings are "bolt on?" Right on!

[kung fu jesus]

Yes, fairly straightforward:

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[kung fu jesus]

Tierods and FCABs done!

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I bought a 6 foot folding table for garage projects like this. It has been a wonderful addition to the workbench to stay organized.

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Getting a BMW onto jackstands is a process.

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Weird surprise; locktite on the wheel bolts.

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Getting the old tierods off went exceptionally smooth. I have found most of my BMWs interesting and sometimes fun to repair.

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I tried a new process to get the new tierods the same length as the old ones. I saw a flaw in the process after I had already installed the driver side.

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Tackling the FCAB, I had to use a 2-jaw puller and remove it in two pieces because the carrier would leave the inner bushing on the control arm. An electric impact wrench made short order of it.

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When I removed the under tray and bracing, I was astonished how clean the underside of the engine was!

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This car has lived a good life.

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Installing the new FCAB required some persuasion to get it onto the control arm. A 5# hammer and a 36mm socket helped.

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Buttoned up the new boot and it was time for the passenger side.

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Old and tired above. Found the original part numbers on the control arms to verify the car’s sport suspension option;

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Passenger side went smoothly.

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I am going to pick up a set of slip plates and jackstands from a buddy tomorrow. I should be able to correct the alignment with them or get it very close.

First test drive: success! This tightened up the steering and corrected the pull I was experiencing under braking.

Finally, I treated all weatherstripping with Shin Etsu grease. This is really helpful for keeping the rubber supple and helps the door glass release when using power windows.

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[Agent☣Orange]

Does that grease leave any residue on glass or clothing?

[kung fu jesus]

It’s not a petroleum product. It’s a silicone sort of grease but not like a silicone spray. It’s a Honda product, they use it to solve squeaks and use in places where petroleum greases may coagulate over time. This is an article about it:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hemmings.com/stories/2019/09/26/hondas-secret-weapon-squeaks-door-leaks-shin-etsu/amp

[kung fu jesus]

Deep-cleaned the leather bits today.

Before sample:

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After:

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Seats cleaned, steamed, moisturized.

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It was pretty dirty.

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[kung fu jesus]

Found a shop down the street to do the alignment today.

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[kung fu jesus]

Continuing to reset the maintenance, which has been pretty easy with this because of its previous ownership, I addressed the caliper guide pins on the front. I removed them, cleaned and lubricated them, installed new bushings for them.

They were pretty dry on the FR, which I believe explains some of the directional pull I occasionally get while braking.

I also changed the oil. This is so_easy on these cars.

Drove the car up on ramps, removed the drain plug, then went back up top to the engine bay.

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The oil filter cartridge is up top. Remove the plastic cap, pull straight up, and the cartridge comes out easily.

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Most quality replacement filter cartridges include a cap o-ring, filter, and a copper crush ring for the drain plug.

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WIX EP FTW!

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Reinstall the drain plug with new washer, drop in 6.9 qts. Done!

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I also masked off the bumper to touch up the blacked out lower grill.

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You can see some paint has come off from hitting debris.

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Good ol’ satin black spray paint, the detailer’s secret to refreshing the details on any car. I used to do this on the sills of my NA. It was surprising how much road blasting those were exposed to and how much this simple trick freshened the appearance.

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4 light coats, 10-15 minutes apart, 12-15” from the surface attains a nice, even satin coating.

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Wait about 30-60 mins to remove the mask, allow it to cure overnight.

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Before:
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After:
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[HarryB]

These "in your face" oil filter cartridges are godsent

[kung fu jesus]

I can’t disagree. Easiest oil change ever.

[Agent☣Orange]

I was just admiring that but "in your face" puts it nicely.

[kung fu jesus]

Got around to ceramic coating the car. Not sure what the fuss is all about regarding screwing this up, it’s pretty easy.

Wash>claybar>wash>mild cut and clean with the DA>wash>wipe down with an alcohol&distilled spray>ceramic coating>wipe&buff, then give it a day to cure.

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It was more noticeable on darker colors like this car. I did all the glass and black trim, too. I’m pleased with the results, it is extremely hydrophobic. Black plastics respond really well to it. I plan to get some more do the wheels and other stuff.

Another project approaching next weekend. :)

[kung fu jesus]

First pandemic-era car meet for me, just a little one really close to my home. It’s not my scene anymore (car shows/meets), but I do love seeing these vintage models.

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There are a growing number of these e30 wagons in the ATL area. This one was a little beat outside, but had a really cool m-tech style cloth matching interior.

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(Bad pic, I know)
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I think I missed my best chances to ever own one of these :(
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I parked next to this z3 coupe. It’s ironic because I was seriously considering buying this exact, haggard one to restore.

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And this neat Nissan Cima lurking in the background.

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[Agent☣Orange]

Your ceramic job looks freakin' amazing! It's the cutting part that freaks me out a little. I know a clear coat is only so thick and every cutting process takes a little bit of thickness away. Have you used any clay bar pads? It's really more like a sponge than clay.

[kung fu jesus]

Thank you!

The cutting part does take a little knowledge, but most are pretty mild where most DIYers won’t take that much off. Not using it over body lines and ridges is also key.

I prefer the clay to the mitts, but I feel like the mitts are better for regular use.

[freedomgli]

Sweet ride. I've always loved these cars but I've long felt they were overpriced on the used car market and today it's only worse. People are asking big money for them, money that used to buy an M3 6-speed convertible. Now I'm looking at beater 323i and 328i instead. Although those tend to be expensive because of deferred maintenance and dreaded previous owner syndrome.

[kung fu jesus]

Sweet ride. I've always loved these cars but I've long felt they were overpriced on the used car market and today it's only worse. People are asking big money for them, money that used to buy an M3 6-speed convertible. Now I'm looking at beater 323i and 328i instead. Although those tend to be expensive because of deferred maintenance and dreaded previous owner syndrome.

e36s are getting hard to find in decent shape at a fair price, e30s are too high now. You can find the model you want, but you really need to delve into the minutiae of the packages, or use a VIN decoder to see what it came with/should have. I was looking for a 6 speed manual 128i in certain colors and packages. The e46 coupe in a manual was the backup because I knew they were getting harder to find and prices were going up. I felt more comfortable with the idea of maintaining an e46. There were a few 325Ci that popped up (one literally 2 miles away but the owner was only interested in trades for a 4x4), the occasional 330ci, but I had my search radius about 500 miles out to watch ones coming out of FL. This particular one was just dumb luck, super clean, local, low miles, and I got it for $8000. That is insane in today's market and I am confident this car compares extremely well or better to the ones I see on BaT selling between $12-15k. Long story short; expand your search, be patient, stay vigilant.

[kung fu jesus]

This weekend’s agenda: cooling system reset:

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A spiffy arrangement of engine cooling accoutrements.

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L > R (above): t-stat & housing, metal H2O pump pulley, BMW coolant (blue stuff), idler pulley, tensioner pulley,steering shaft coupler, H2O pump, fillister bolt, serpentine belt. All this for just under $300.

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(Above) Black plastic piece is the radiator panel overflow bracket.

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(Above) new radiator

People complain about BMW cooling systems, but they are really easy to remove and install. They use a lot of plastic, but the failure points (H2O pump pulley, pump impeller) and other parts can be found made of metal. 80-100k miles is around where they should be done, some last longer but it’s a risk.

The cooling system is highly modular and the components can be replaced individually. For instance, to replace the H2O pump on an NA/NB Miata, you have to disassemble the front of the engine, timing belt, etc. On these, once you remove the serpentine belt (super easy), you can remove the pump without disturbing the engine. Yes, you open the cooling system, but that’s expected.

If I do a Miata H20 pump, I’m expecting 6-10 hours, depending on everything else I replace. On this car, 1-2 hours.

I didn’t order the main hoses and expansion tank because the previous owner had the dealer do them in late ‘19, then the car sat during the pandemic. There are about 3k miles on them.

The steering coupler is a wear item and OCD thing for me to eliminate the free play in the steering wheel. I did this on my e30, it’s a pretty easy job.

Tensioners and idlers are just common sense and virtually no time to replace during this job.

[kung fu jesus]

Today is cooling system day! Prepping the patient…

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Started by mixing the coolant.

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50/50 mix, coolant and distilled water. I mark the containers for future reference.

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This $4 BBQ tray makes a awesome collection tray for this job.

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Disassembly begins…

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Removed air intake, airbox, and airflow meter

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Took off the drive belts, then the t-stat housing. The waterpump is front and center.

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Four bolts to remove the pump’s pulley, four nuts that retain the pump, then used two bolts from the t-stat to push the pump from the engine. Easy as pie.

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Old pump is original and in very good condition. This coincides with the maintenance records and the original owner was very good about flushing the system at regular intervals.

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No sludge or corrosion to be found! This is a fantastic sign.

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New pump has a metal impeller and fits in easily. I’m approaching the 1/2 way point 90 minutes in, time to take a break.

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I mis-read the weather forecast. It’s a lot warmer than I anticipated.

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I removed the radiator and mounting plate with the overflow bottle attached (left).

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Radiator was definitely reaching the end of its service life.

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New radiator waiting on the table.

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Hung the the new radiator, slotted in the mounting plate, attach the overflow bottle, bolt in the new t-stat housing assembly. Snap and lock in the lower hoses, install the lower air diverter. Heading into the final stretch.

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Back up top, install the new aluminum water pump pulley. I painted it black to prevent galvanic corrosion, nice 10mm bolts came with it. Swap out the idler and tensioner pulleys. They were definitely original, getting loud. Also reinstall new e-torx fillister bolt on the tensioner for insurance. Laced up the serpentine belt, then the AC belt.

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Button up the radiator on top, slide in the cooling fan assembly, plug in the relays and sensors.
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Chucked in the air box and AFM, pour in the coolant, bleed as I clean up the tools and ready the old coolant for recycling.

4 hours, including two breaks to cool off. Time to hit the showers!

[Agent☣Orange]

Look how easy that water pump was....jeees! Thanks for all the great photos. I was thinking maybe it was just cooler in Atlanta than here but nope, we're the same. I don't know how you do it in this heat. I have to do the lawn tomorrow and I'm dreading it.

[kung fu jesus]

Yeah, yesterday was our first 90+ degree day of the season. I was cognizant to take breaks when I was getting tired or frustrated.

A lot of the components these cars have a bad reputation for are pretty easy to replace. I think a lot of owners don’t want to DIY or they don’t like dealership repair bills. OE quality parts aren’t that expensive.

Today the dogs woke me earlier than I wanted because they were hungry. I got motivated to install the final part before it became too hot; the steering coupler.

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This little gizmo connects the steering shaft to the steering rack. It is oriented in a way where it can only go on one way, so it’s a bit hard to mess it up. Compared to the one I replaced on my e30, this one is a lot easier to replace.

Car went back up on the ramps, removed the splash shield and bracing from under the car and got to it fairly easy.

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Two e-torx bolts and some wiggling, it came apart. I cleaned the splines on the steering rack end, applied a dab of anti-seize, and installed the new one. A
Bit of blue loctite on the bolts, and it was done, about an hour from wheels up to wheels down.

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The old coupler had a *little* bit of play, but more laterally than axially. I wasn’t sure it was going to do much, but holy cow! The free play is gone and the steering feels very tight and responsive, super stoked!

Later that day, I also cleaned the air filter and box. It was pretty bad, loaded with years of pollen. I found an unused K&N recharge kit in storage, so I used that and it cleaned up great!

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Oiled up, not too heavy of a coating:

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Cleaned out the airbox, buttoned it up.

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[HarryB]

Nice, as always! I was doing my research on E46-series parts last week, as I was bidding on a confiscated M3 that was in desperate need of service. Positively surprised at how affordable most of these parts were, with the exception of front rotors which were ridiculously expensive. Ended up losing that auction after all, as it went up to a non-sensible amount (could buy a good condition used M3 for the same money in the local market).

[kung fu jesus]

Absolutely. The parts are readily available and affordable. There are certain manufacturers of these parts I prefer over others, most of which were OEM suppliers.

Anything with an M badge here has increased dramatically over the last 10 years. Certain M-specific options can add to the repairs. For instance, the brakes you mention were probably the floating rotor design.

Here, there are a LOT of internet parts companies for BMWs; Pelican Parts, AutohausAZ, Bimmerworld, Turner Motorsports, FCPeuro, ECStuning, Rockauto, etc. I've been going through FCPeuro because their prices are competitive and they carry a warranty on all their parts (which is kind of insane...brake pads even. Yes, crazy). Using the last 7 digits on a BMWs VIN I can look up up the specifics of this particular car through realOEM.com. There are successive parts iterations and some of the online retailers do a better job of helping me package the parts I need than others because of this VIN system.

There are a ton of resources on the internet for repairs, diagnosis, information, etc., probably more so than Miatas. The marque just attracts a wider variety of ownership personalities, so that can be humorous/aggravating depending on your perspective.

I've also mentioned the differences in engineering philosophies. These are distinctly different between manufacturers or country, so getting a grasp on that is helpful for repairs and maintenance.

[kung fu jesus]

The re-wrapped steering wheel on my car arrived! Originally alcantara, I went with napa leather and some subtle, custom stitching.

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Alcantara does not play well with this climate, and I have never been a huge fan, I honestly do not like the feel of it nor how it wears over time.

It was a core return, meaning when it arrived I sent my good core in exchange.

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[Agent☣Orange]

That's some great stitching. Starting to look like a brand new car.

[kung fu jesus]

It was done by a local company. A BMW enthusiast who rewrapped his own alcantara steering wheel and turned it into a business.

https://cobywheel.com/

[kung fu jesus]

One month in and I am extremely pleased with this car. To be honest, I’m not used to starting off with a car this well-maintained. The e30 was nice, but this has been through fewer hands and was just looked after quite a bit better.

Everything I have done so far has been beneficial and positive towards enjoyment. The steering refresh really sharpened the response and it feels as precise as I was expecting. The refurbished steering wheel is the cherry on top. It’s thick and substantial, something I am not used to on previous cars, but really like!

I’m still in love with the effortless torque at speed. I’m still gradually exploring the limits of the chassis but am pleasantly surprised how lithe and composed it is when pushed, it is very balanced and predictable.

I look forward to sharing more updates! I am planning to do some bigger jobs as the weather cools, but I’m sure many smaller ones will be sprinkled in soon enough. :)

[Agent☣Orange]

That was truly a great find that makes subsequent restoration far easier. What's even more unique was that it happened during this window where every desirable car has shot up to unreasonable prices.

[kung fu jesus]

#detailsmatter

I ordered a few parts, just some stuff that most people don’t bother with.

First was a new cowl. Much like those on the Miata, these get sun-beaten and age out.

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I ordered this from BMW of San Francisco on Tuesday, it arrived today (Saturday) by USPS(!!?!?). The box is quite large, but light. I didn’t expect it for another 5 days so this was a pleasant surprise!

Pretty interesting engineering here, a bit clever and fairly easy to accomplish.

First I mark the wiper positions with tape.
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The disassembly was pretty easy after removing the wipers. The cowl snaps in. Good opportunity to clean under the old one.

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I was only expecting these two small bits:

A brass bleeder screw

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And this wheel hanger

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The screw replaces the plastic one on the cooling system that is prone to stripping.

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The tire hanger threads in where a wheel bolt goes so you can place the tire on it while installing the other bolts. Sounds silly and small, but these cars don’t use wheel studs. An 18x9 wheel with a 255/35-18 tire on it is a load to place on the hub AND line up the holes for the bolts. It tucks nicely in the tool kit.

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[Agent☣Orange]

23286

[kung fu jesus]

I already know who built the car though.

[kung fu jesus]

Took the car on its first road trip this weekend. I went to the mountains of North Carolina. We had no intention of joining the Miatas at the Gap festivities, but I still mixed it up with some unfortunate Miatas during our travels. To those Miata owners I came across on the roads there, I’m sorry (not sorry)…you are slow. ;)

This 99% stock car is a joy on these mountain drives. Torque to power up steep grades while rarely being in the wrong gear, precise turn-in, balanced chassis, and comfortable cabin. AC on, mostly between 4-6th gears, just a pleasant sport coupe.

We hit some RAIN coming across the Smoky Mountains National Park. Lightning, heavy downpours, tight and twisting roads, no problem. Though not the stickiest, the Pilot Sport all-seasons were very good. No signs of hydroplaning or washing out.

The only issue was the shutters on the xenon headlights don’t flip over to the high beam setting, but I found a fix and will address soon.

[kung fu jesus]

BTW, if you are in that area with your SO or SWMBO, the Everett Hotel and Bistro in Bryson City is excellent. It’s a boutique-style hotel built in an old bank dating to 1905. Very attentive staff, very nice menu, lovely rooms. Better than the majority of hotels and resorts in that area, away from the PITA than happens around TotD and Robbinsville.

[kung fu jesus]

3000 miles later, another oil change. 7 qts of 5w30 synthetic and a Wix gold/premium oil filter. I wish all oil changes were this easy on other cars.

Also, replaced the front endlinks and swaybar bushings. I was feeling just a little bit of looseness in the steering response.

The endlinks were definitely perished.

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New Lemforder units installed easily.

The front sway bay bushings are 16 years old and and they are more wallowed out than AO after Taco Tuesday and $1 Conona night.

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Moog replacements for this ZHP pkg larger FSB:
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Drop the splash tray and they are easy to access.
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New of left, old driver side bushing on right:
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Passenger side:
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With the wheels off up front, I broke out the heavy duty wheel cleaner to spiff up their condition. This stuff is very strong, I only use it on rare occasions or on heavily dusted wheels. Gloves and glasses needed kind of strong.

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These wheels are specific to this package, the split spokes aren’t too hard clean with a spoke brush, but the crevices don’t always clean up so well.

Total job took about 60 minutes. Autumn has arrived and our weather is very agreeable.

[Agent☣Orange]

Which heavy duty wheel cleaner?

[kung fu jesus]

Let me check. I bought a gallon jug of it at a detailing shop and I pour it into a general purpose spray bottle as needed.

I use it when I run caustic race pad compounds or when caking begins.

[kung fu jesus]

5 months in, 5500 miles. This is a wonderful daily driver *knocking on wood*.

I am putting together a plan for future-proofing. Mainly preemptive structural reinforcements for track use. Fortunately, a shop very close to me is a preeminent expert in this type of work.

In the meantime, autumn has arrived in Atlanta!

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[freedomgli]

Long story short; expand your search, be patient, stay vigilant.

Long story short, I took the easy route. Picked up a low-mileage Estoril Blue 428i M-Sport in September and am happy with it so far. I wanted a smooth, quiet, comfortable daily driver that could accommodate my family for weekend adventures. The power folding hard top is great, it’s got plenty of power for me, the ZF8 makes it quick despite having “only” 240hp, it looks good.

I still think the E46 are great cars and love the sound of naturally aspirated inline-6. But I wanted something that was easy to live with. I’ve got the Miata and 3 motorcycles that all have needs, so I didn’t want to add an older BMW with needs to the To Do List. But I’m still really enjoying living vicariously through you and watching your build thread. Keep up the good work!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51685325046_fb761ed754_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mKfNrU)

[kung fu jesus]

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Thanks! That’s a nice car!

[kung fu jesus]

I completely understand the ‘old BNW’ anxiety.

Looking into having the rear subframe mounting points plated (welded in). Will speak with Harrison Motorsports next spring about it. I will have them do the bushings and a few other items at the same time.

I will look into adding the M3 surge tank/fuel pump to prevent starvation.

Not really concerned about the oil pump nut, the ZHP used a locking nut. The pump shaft is some concern, but I don’t expect a lot of time at top of fuel cut.

Suspension-wise, I may just keep it stock, and refresh with OEM or OEM+.

[freedomgli]

Rear subframe reinforcement will give you lots of peace of mind. Every E46 driven vigorously should have it done before it becomes a bigger/ costlier issue. Have you considered adding a limited slip differential while you’re in there?

[kung fu jesus]

I considered an LSD, and I spoke with a track buddy who did it, I will wait and see if I need it.

I loved how quickly my e36 and e30 would lock on track, but I don’t know if it’s worth the expense yet.

[kung fu jesus]

Took advantage of some Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals to order some maintenance/OEM+ parts. I like doing a lot of this type of work near the holidays when work is a little slower and I’m at home more.

Nothing crazy, but I started getting a small valve cover oil leak and want to nip that in the bud. This grew to a “while I’m in there” parts list:

VC Gasket
Delphi coil packs
Spark plugs
AC tensioner pulley assembly
AC belt
Wipers
Fuel filter/regulator assembly

I’ll be picking up transmission, differential, and brake fluids over the next few weeks to knock that out too.

[kung fu jesus]

Package arrived! Weekend project is shaping up.

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FCPeuro FTW!

[freedomgli]

None of those jobs looks too difficult but add them all up and you’ve earned yourself a well deserved treat. Good luck!

[kung fu jesus]

Nah, only tricky part is probably the plastic valve cover, just have to be a little more mindful.

I’ve done this a few times on the M3 and wagon.

The Delphi coils are a more robust design and I am not seeing the current ones having been replaced in the documentation. At 100k, the stock coils typically need to be replaced or considered, along with the spark plugs.

On another note, I need to try to get a time lapse of my morning commute. I usually leave before sunrise and arrive at my office just before the sun crests the horizon. The light reflecting off the buildings and skylines as I pass through Dunwoody, Midtown, then downtown is really pretty at times because the building lights and signs haven’t switched off yet. The way the expressway winds through (and under) them is pretty neat.

[kung fu jesus]

Started the project a little early. I have all weekend, so I did a little bit here and there working from home today.

The valve cover gasket (VCG) and coils are definitely original. The OG VCG was very stiff/plasticized and took about 20 minutes to peel out of the VC. Had to be careful because the VC is plastic.

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Car is definitely well-maintained. After I pulled of the VC and saw the condition of the cam box, I was most pleased. I reacted just like this…

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[Agent☣Orange]

Why does the intake cam have that black cover?

[kung fu jesus]

Pretty sure that is a baffle. The PCV system connects near that at the front.

Might also be for VANOS (BMWs VTEC).

[kung fu jesus]

Continuing, I went about carefully prying out the old VC bolt grommets. The bolts are special shoulder bolts through rubber grommets and a washer. Bolt>washer >grommet >VC>head.

Like the VCG, the grommets were plasticized and hard.

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Old on the left, new on the right.

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Doused the VC in brake clean.

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Then I used a zip tie to scrape out the VCG channel. This is often overlooked, and that can lead to premature VCG failure or leaks.

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Used a folding table as another work surface.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/0767be1e632db837188c4d24df1b9313.jpg
I also cleaned the washers individually with an old sanding pad. There are 15 bolts, washer and grommets.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/1bee09ae0842a07f4ab5ad2537235618.jpg

I then cleaned the mating surface on the head where the VCG lands. Wiped it down with a microfiber cloth, then scraped it with a razor, then brushed it with a brass wire brush. Then a quick clean with another microfiber and brake clean.

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Cleaned the heat shield above the exhaust manifold.

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Made sure the far rear of the engine was clean too.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/d4235554d3df86328985fe74c8e72912.jpg

Old VCG vs new(right).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/01390c71580833f09ee04535c1709399.jpg

Laid in the new VCG.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/32987747ea8818a31764a8d12a366535.jpg

I applied a super light coat of shin etsu grease to all the grommets and VCG. Basically, put some on my palms, rubbed them together to heat up the grease, ran my hands along all the new rubber parts. Want to see if the extends the life.

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Used ultra black RTV in the corners.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/b9127180b210872997b53415ad96a414.jpg


Mhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/4f5cec0e5472a563c40d0389884e901a.jpg

While waiting for the RTV to set, I changed the spark plugs.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/ea0fcf2ade7f45b377382cf1a6699a25.jpg

Definitely originals. Not bad for 106k.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/bfaf91315a109619d6ccccc62efa1537.jpg

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Laid on the VC and started torquing it down.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/747fdb41636ef4575b9c86a806aa684a.jpg

These are the VC bolts with the washer and grommets installed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/d3b91c3799d10142114f3d24e6f9f111.jpg

Unpackaged the coils. Old on top, again definitely original. The new coils below. These are the same coils the turbo cars use. They sustain those cars to 450-500 hp, they will be fine for my purposes. :) Much better engineered and built…and less expensive.

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They slip right in. These use a cam lock connector to the harness which is really slick and easy to use. I wish more cars used this style of fastener.

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I will wrap this up tomorrow!

[chiefmg]

Kind of surprised you didn't have some leaks given the condition of those rubber parts. Your plugs look similar to those used in RX-8s with those multiple ground electrodes.

[kung fu jesus]

It was *just* beginning to leak and I was starting to smell it.

[kung fu jesus]

Wrapped up the car today. I had a lot going on this weekend, hence the 3-day journey.

I had damaged the ignition harness pretty bad removing it on Friday because I’m an idiot. Fortunately, I’m in metro Atlanta, found the exact same harness on another car being parted out 20 miles away (in Cumming, GA…insert joke). Big city livin’ FTW.

The car was about 80% together when I finished last night. I just spent extra time cleaning the engine bay while I had room.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211205/6840acd9be3c57ae7e66984af35e53ff.jpg

At this point, it was beauty covers, install cowl, take it for a shake down.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211205/4cb399bfec6b3e2be6590d12d58f6e5f.jpg

The car does feel a bit smoother, more responsive. On the freeway, dropping down to 3rd or 4th, she eats and rolls out with a bit more punch in midrange under load. Pretty pleased with this. :)

[HarryB]

So nice to see someone taking maintenance work seriously and tackling all these "boring" bits with proper care, hats off again to you sir! Really like the coil connectors too, but hate their wiring. I mean, guess it could be damaged by breathing on it or something.

[kung fu jesus]

https://media4.giphy.com/media/QxHQ4BtLeEGBlWIFTs/giphy.gif

Thanks!

If you like tinkering with exact engineering, regular maintenance on most German cars is just that. The assemblies and design are pretty different than Japanese or American cars.

BMWs are highly modular. Think Hondas to the 10th power. I’m told Mercedes and Audi/VW are similar to varying degrees.

I have been thinking about a future purchase (cars), like usual, and am starting to compile a short list of cars I would like own in the future. I am excited about owning an electric car, but would like to have a V8 car for dual use (daily driver and track) before we move away from ICE.

I was thinking what I would do without a shitbox to keep running or modifying, but how enjoyable a car with modern amenities and the power to match might be.

So far, I have 2 solid candidates and am casually looking for others. The criteria is:

* 400 HP minimum
* naturally aspirated
* 8-10 speed semi auto with responsive paddle shifting
*RWD
* able to withstand track use without extensive modication or catastrophic failure.
* $30K>

Neither of the candidates so far are a Corvette. I have to read more and search for more options. This is a slow burn search, but fun nevertheless.

[Agent☣Orange]

Neither of the candidates so far are a Corvette. I have to read more and search for more options. This is a slow burn search, but fun nevertheless.

23493

[kung fu jesus]

* able to withstand track use without extensive modication or catastrophic failure.
^ there.

[Agent☣Orange]

23494

[kung fu jesus]

Sorry, Bubba. Corvettes need some fairly extensive mods for track use and I wouldn’t really want to DD one. Great w/e car though.

[Agent☣Orange]

Yeah, all those needed structural reinforcements before track use...oh wait, that was BMW.

[kung fu jesus]

Oiling primarily, but I understand what you are saying.

[HarryB]

The criteria is:

* 400 HP minimum
* naturally aspirated
* 8-10 speed semi auto with responsive paddle shifting
*RWD
* able to withstand track use without extensive modication or catastrophic failure.
* $30K>



I would add wagon to the criteria you have mentioned (although weight penalty might be a significant drawback for track use). I would be looking at CTS-Vs or ATS-Vs...

[kung fu jesus]

Weight isn't so much a penalty with that level of power and I look forward to that added power and weight to my perf driving repertoire.

I will add those to the research pile!

As of now, the two I am researching are the '18+ Mustang and the Lexus IS-F.

[HarryB]

I respectfully disagree; they are hell of fast cars on straights, but weight shows quite a lot during cornering or braking. That being said, I would love something like that complementary to my NB.

[kung fu jesus]

Weight and brake management isn't something I really have to pay *that* much attention to on my previous Miatas. I drive most cars as momentum cars on the track, moving to a heavier, more powerful car is something I don't have a lot of experience with in that environment.

[kung fu jesus]

Long story short, I took the easy route. Picked up a low-mileage Estoril Blue 428i M-Sport in September and am happy with it so far. I wanted a smooth, quiet, comfortable daily driver that could accommodate my family for weekend adventures. The power folding hard top is great, it’s got plenty of power for me, the ZF8 makes it quick despite having “only” 240hp, it looks good.

I still think the E46 are great cars and love the sound of naturally aspirated inline-6. But I wanted something that was easy to live with. I’ve got the Miata and 3 motorcycles that all have needs, so I didn’t want to add an older BMW with needs to the To Do List. But I’m still really enjoying living vicariously through you and watching your build thread. Keep up the good work!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51685325046_fb761ed754_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mKfNrU)

Does your plate end in 615? If yes I think I was next to you today on 85N heading out of downtown.

[freedomgli]

Does your plate end in 615? If yes I think I was next to you today on 85N heading out of downtown.

No. I’m in Northern Virginia so it must’ve been someone else with exceptional taste [emoji41]

Coincidentally, this afternoon I pulled up at a stoplight right next to a sweet looking BMW Z4 (E89) sDrive35is LCI in Estoril Blue. It was neat to compare and contrast. The Z4 obviously offers a more dynamic driving experience. But you can tell our cars were designed by the same people.

[kung fu jesus]

BMW has often produced some of my favorite shades of blue.

[kung fu jesus]

One of those 10 minute #detailsmatter jobs…

New side marker lights.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/cd1f78728a39bd869512bc42282f72d2.jpg

Old, UV-damaged on the left, minty fresh on the right

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/95939cad3acf94731ea9ed70d4def635.jpg

It’s been rainy, car is dirty, ceramic coating works like a champ though.

Old:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/4ded09283ba4d60c564442a175173dd8.jpg
New:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/422f494c8fe2a0add137890d2d8dcc71.jpg

The car has wheel locks. I hate wheel locks. Even though I have two keys, I don’t trust them to always work. I also don’t want to be searching for the key when I need it most, so I replaced them with new OE wheel bolts.

Wheel lock on left, key in front, OE bolt on the right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/0c852e03fc1765fd5a8247cddb732ab5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/39505749dc247be42edce7cc9341ddad.jpg

A few ugga-duggas later, and some click-clicks on the torque wrench, job done!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211221/1c1c04946fd41656f6444bd0c146cbb9.jpg

[kung fu jesus]

70 degrees on 12/26, time to do some work.

Replaced the AC tensioner and belt this is literally a 20-30 minute job.

The pulley was definitely at EoL. I could hear it chatter sometimes at start up or shutdown.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/da0795579b952fdc3db8baf7191464fa.jpg

Easy access after dropping the splash tray.

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Loosen one 16mm bolt.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/a7d91d860195f006058558751f2a0497.jpg

Put a t55 here and rotate clockwise to release tension on the belt to remove.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/4033a5632c413b378b2850afa5f91a90.jpg

Finish removing the 16mm. New vs old below.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/485abefe22df6d4f474725e2b072cd38.jpg

Belt was alright, but starting to show signs of cracking and glazing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/2ffaa842152611bd7dcd9d56069afbff.jpg

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A few spritzes of brake clean to tidy the area.

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Install new tensioner and belt.

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Moved on to the fuel filter. This filter has the fuel pressure regulator built in. It is under the left side of the car, inboard of the structural rails, behind the front wheel a bit, under a protective metal cover.

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For Alex:

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/a54556afdea75a01cce037d5829cf626.jpg

I can tell it has been replaced by the clamps. I would have to look up when, but the fuel tank was replaced due to a recall in ‘08 IIRC, so maybe that’s when this was done. They didn’t replace the little connecting bits of fuel hose nor the vacuum line pig tail to the FPR. The vacuum line was very brittle. Fortunately, I had plenty in my tool chest to replace them. I also had replacement clamps too.

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Not a lot a spillage. I capped the ends as I took the hoses off. Just worked cautiously and deliberately to prevent a fire.

Tidied everything up and reinstalled the cover.

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Next up was the oil change. It’s a little early, but I wanted to take advantage of the weather. WIX XP oil filter and 7 quarts of 5w30 synthetic. I love the density of the filter material and number of pleats on these Wix XPs. Worth_it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/cd947086df09e733ca1441643257cb19.jpg

After that, a much needed wash and vacuum.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211226/c37a92fd0f70bc26f9adcbdea1828ae4.jpg

With the new coils, plugs, filters, oil, this engine definitely feels noticeably more responsive and stronger.

[kung fu jesus]

It dawned on me that a lot of these parts have the build date printed or stamped on them. The date on the new fuel filter reads 4/2021 for instance. I dug the old filter out and found 03/03/10, so it makes sense and coincides with records that came with the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211227/f7e6e0059a7431b9259a4335e524c72b.jpg


I also dropped by a reputable BMW indie shop, Harrison Motorsports, to book rear subframe reinforcements for the unibody, AKG bushings, and a few odds and ends while the car is there. Goes under the knife 1/17.

[MaRcOp01o]

Hell yeah, love the BMW updates Steven.

It is surprisingly easy to work on!

[kung fu jesus]

A little more info on the repairs coming up I decided to have done.

The locations where the rear sub frame (RSF) mounts to the body is prone to cracking under hard use. I don't suspect mine has this issue, but I do intend to occasionally track the car. This is an inherent, known flaw to all the e46s. There are a lot of different methods to solve this, and as many different 'kits'. I'm going with a welded-in systems of plates.

You can see examples of the cracking here. (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-gallery-e46-subframe)

I will be using the Synchro Design Works kit and having it done professionally. It entails dropping the entire rear subframe, exhaust, diff, and fuel tank. This kit wraps around the problem areas more than others and uses thicker material. Some kits don't reinforce the area or spread the load out enough and the cracks can still happen.

23543

When completed, would look similar to this:

23544

Additionally, all the bushings in the rear will be replaced:

AKF rear trailing arm bushings (with integrated lateral limiters)

23545

AKG subframe bushings

23546

AKG differential bushing

23547

I will also have the shifter replaced with the factory short shifter, the mechanicals replaced too. A nice OEM+ upgrade.

23548

23549

And the flex disk (guibo) between the driveshaft and transmission will also be replaced.

[kung fu jesus]

New Year Day drive into the north Georgia mountains, wound up in Helen, GA.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220101/3a84729fbcb8422616f16fabd56d21be.jpg

[Agent☣Orange]

What a beautiful scene!

[kung fu jesus]

They have a German Alpine aesthetic. Maybe a little too much, but it’s interesting. Streets are Strasse (even on Google maps voice).

It’s about 75-90 minutes away taking 50/50 back roads and freeway.

[Agent☣Orange]

Reminds me of Leavenworth, WA. https://leavenworth.org/webcams/. It is a neat little Bavarian town high up in the Cascade mountains about 120mi drive through the mountains from Seattle. One of my favorite drives.

23551

[kung fu jesus]

Small update, some further study combined with previous experience, I decided to go with OE rear trailing arm bushings instead of P/U. I have had enough suspensions where rotating P/U bushes have caused a lot of noise and required some re-lubricant to stay quiet.

Given the location and dynamics of this point, it seems like rubber would be the prudent way to go. I will be adding lateral limiters that go in either side of the bushings to reduce lateral deflection and dynamic toe.

Here is how this looks, the limiters are shown in white:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220102/6ede30a095ed4aaab9693a2a272e2a0b.jpg


And look like this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220102/163a3b7005867f08d1ef0e51edc9f743.jpg

[kung fu jesus]

Dropped the car off at the shop today, ahead of the impending inclement weather. She goes under the knife on Monday.

At least she won’t be alone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/ac1173a353f0e8501487f28ed95716bc.jpg

[newoldm]

That E39 brings back memories. I had a 525iT for a year or so and loved that car. Sadly had to donate when a bunch of stuff started failing at once and I could not get it to pass smog. Awesome thread!

23567

[kung fu jesus]

I love the BMW wagons and still monitor them for future purchase.

[kung fu jesus]

Nothing to show, but it was nice and unexpected to receive an update from the shop. They have the rear subframe removed and are documenting it. It’s my understanding they do this job in “batches” to maximize the fabricator’s time.

The short shifter might not happen due to supply chain issues, and that’s ok. I’ll be happy with the stock shifter being rebuilt as an alternative.

[kung fu jesus]

Big day! Pics of the subframe:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220118/3ecca9bcc461b940eadccd44e748eadf.jpeg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220118/40005379029f85acb86b7444539308ec.jpeg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220118/958fbeac565fa1dcef0fd3a2380e12e1.jpeg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220118/d7f810954089709d329921174dd1caed.jpeg

No cracks! Zero, nada. Great news! This car is a confirmed, babied cream puff.

You can see black outlines of where the reinforcement plates will be welded in.

Gotta admit, I’ve seen pictures of ‘babied’ cars with cracks. I was Ok with some hairline fractures, but this is better and a big relief!

[HarryB]

Nice! Would double-check their work in terms of sealing once the reinforcements are welded on. Ideally would like to coat both surfaces (frame and inner side of plates) with weld-through primer, plus meticulously apply some sealant around all edges. Water ingress and rust in multi-layer sheetmetal structures is the devil.

[kung fu jesus]

That’s what is expected and discussed. They send me daily pictures in an email.

[kung fu jesus]

Full weld, etching primer, and epoxy undercoating.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/dd9805637e4bfc9548d0709a99e7db4f.jpeg

Looks like a contaminate got in at the start of the weld above. They took care of it, I asked.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/08eb549a391fd0f1a664d6a2604310bb.jpeg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/e75f750041a52642aec3a264b0ea4c2d.jpeg

[kung fu jesus]

I picked up the car tonight. It feels very, VERY nice, exceptionally OEM+. The rear tracks with the fronts noticeably better. The driveline feels more direct.

Altogether, the chassis feels more taunt.

The short shifter did not arrive in time, so I had the stock unit rebuilt. Wow. The 6sp already felt better than my previous BMWs, but this is just really smooth.

I had the transmission mounts done as well.

Here are the pockets that were cut open from the trunk to weld in additional gussets to compliment those welded underneath:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220125/15136c81e0a88c70ba3c6ddb58485c74.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220125/098d84795b13589b65783a431dd265f6.jpg

These are covered by the removable spare tire cover and carpet.

All-in-all I am very pleased. It was pricey, but these future-proofing and OEM+ updates are worth it.

[kung fu jesus]

I bought a coding suite for the car that will allow me to customize each of the car’s modules, individual trouble codes, live data, and specialized dealership/technician troubleshooting/repairs.

It’s like a hyper-charged OBD2/Carly/dynamic data logger. Maybe a better analogy is like DIYAutotune TunerStudio, but not just for the Engine computer, ALL the computers in the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/b5bd7a7934c0f5f5e1eee411be70e3e0.jpg

Should be pretty cool and helpful!

[Agent☣Orange]

Ooh, I like that! I read that newer BMWs come with a lot of cool features but owners have to pay a monthly subscription to use them.

[kung fu jesus]

These cars, and others, come with a lot of factory settings you can change. They set them based on the options and landing country it is being shipped to. This car has a lot of options so I have a bunch of settings I can change.

I can also do a lot of stuff I would have to pay the dealer or a shop to change.

[kung fu jesus]

6:30a, Monday, backing out of the garage.

“That sounds odd…”

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220207/a9ca11cd0210435d313bd95fcbe773d4.jpg

Too close to the shoulder to repair. Guess who had a chat with the GC renovating the house about debris?

[kung fu jesus]

Welp, I went ahead and replaced all the tires. I was *hoping* to wait until the autumn,and probably get something in a summer tire, but reason got the better of me.

They were aging out at being nearly 5 years old and the left rear catching a screw sort of forced my hand. The stability control was kicking in more frequently with the fresher tire.

I commute about 50 miles round-trip 3-4 times/week. I drive primarily on the expressway in arguably one of the most aggressive driving cities in the US. I routinely drive 80 mph in heavy traffic and it rains frequently and heavily here. Also, we are about as far south as you can get and still have all four seasons (some snow and ice).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220211/24209bbede5d4cc15c6f804b5f3393c4.jpg

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 A/S. There were Pilot Sport 3 A/S on it previously and I liked them as much on this car as I did on my e30. I’m a bit of a tire snob and I hate cheap tires that get loud soon after break-in.

I think the plan now is to get another set of OE BMW wheels and mount sticky tires on those for fun at the track or the mountains.

Also, I passed the initial settling of the new bushings and work done on the rear last month and it was time to get it aligned, It was getting a little twitchy at speed out back and I knew it was time to get it corrected:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220211/dc528c95eb29bf7e899973fcadf4afac.jpg

New tires and fresh alignment feel good at Mexican speeds!

[kung fu jesus]

Been having some trouble with the high beams on the car staying engaged (on). They are bi-xenon which means when the high beams are switched on, a shutter over the bulb lifts and aims more light higher. Mine are engaging momentarily before switching back to low beams:


https://youtu.be/DbTyuOsogdA

Using the scanner and software, I am able to look at all the computer/modules in the car, including the Lighting Control Module (LCM).

23587

Choosing the LCM, I can pull up the features and settings.

23588

By merely un-checking the "bixenon" box, the LCM reverts to using the inner halogen bulbs for high beams instead of flipping the shutters up on the xenon bulbs:


23589


https://youtu.be/mEJAjggPL-w

Using this software, I was able to run diagnostics to see if the issue was the LCM or the combo/stalk switch on the steering wheel. It is the LCM. I have a few more tests to run, but in the meantime I have operational high beams (yay!)

[Agent☣Orange]

Does your car have a sensor to detect oncoming cars at night and thus dims the high beams automatically?

[kung fu jesus]

No. High beams are analog/manually operated.

[kung fu jesus]

It’s been a minute.

I am approaching a year of ownership and this has been a terrific daily.

https://media0.giphy.com/media/kqOX12G9yZRNPxQwcT/giphy.gif

I change the oil every 3000 miles, I keep it fed and clean.

I try to wash it every week as weather permits. The ceramic coating has held up really well!

I recently put together a little washing rig. I have a big, gas-powered power washer but it’s a bit overkill and loud.

I picked up a small, electric power washer that makes “1600” psi. It’s the right size for this work though. It’s compact, easy to store, and quiet.

I also picked up a foam cannon. I like this system, it really helps keep the contaminants off and I can take a little more time.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/083bf1ff1370dac95bf9782048252598.jpg

I use a fresh microfiber each time and the bucket is used with clear water only to rinse it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/4e4a864d4125d434788e80da3c52519e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/f1a3d9ff7e818f7000a17038d1f70164.jpg

Very happy with this method and I love the results! Altogether, this washing rig cost about $115.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220515/1af6a8d1c47e17e860e33cb9592aa2d8.jpg

[Agent☣Orange]

I'm going to look into that electric pressure washer. While I also have a big gas-powered one, the hassle of dragging it out, feeding it expensive gas, fix whatever the hell is wrong with it this week all for ten minutes washing a car just turns me off.

[HarryB]

You guys have a...what? I had no idea gas-powered power washers were a thing.

[kung fu jesus]

My gas power washer is pretty easy to set up, but 3400psi is a bit much for this.

Harry, I have a Honda-powered pressure washer. Always starts on the first pull. It’s a very good machine. They are very common in the states. I use mine to clean the driveway, the house, walkways, brick, etc. It will strip paint easily with a narrow nozzle pattern.

[MaRcOp01o]

You guys have a...what? I had no idea gas-powered power washers were a thing.

Amurika power washers go BRRRRRRRR

[kung fu jesus]

That they do!

Not gonna lie, power washing with a strong machine is strangely satisfying.

I have a surface attachment for driveways and it’s awesome to see the concrete turn out 3-5 shades lighter. I can clean my 75’ driveway in about an hour. I have loaned it to a few neighbors who wanted to do theirs.

[Agent☣Orange]

For sure! Having a gas-powered washer is a must. Not so much for washing cars but everything else around the house that an electric won't do. My young neighbor just got a new pressure washer with electric start and was trying to clean his driveway with just a nozzle which was arduous, water wasting and leaving stripes. I loaned him my pavement-cleaning attachment and he knocked out his driveway in minutes then came over and did mine. It's mesmerizing watching the magic eraser turn dark concrete white again.

23674

[kung fu jesus]

A 3’ extension is helpful with the surface attachment. Makes it easier on the back. ;)

[kung fu jesus]

Gathering parts to knock out the rest of this car’s maintenance refresh.

The starter bendix sticks out after starting a little before it retracts, so I’m going to replace that. There are two ways to do it: from under the car with lots of futzing, or from up top with lots of things to remove.

Yup, taking the high road here.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220608/700dddf9be46bc27bd8179a63b8aaafe.jpg

Brand new (not reman) starter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220608/be0924e67ec9910de0a0b4a4b89b15b6.jpg

To do the job from the top, I have to remove the intake manifold. It’s not terrible per se, but can be daunting. This is ok because I still need to replace the coolant and heater hoses running under there. They don’t leak, but they are original to the car and I haven’t tracked this car because it is (now) the weakest link in the system.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220608/5eb5ee5c21b635cd944fb418a7bcb055.jpg

A bag of dicks? No, bags of new coolant hoses.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220608/5157370120af7d10fdcaa1a47261f7bd.jpg

The hoses arrived today. Much like all the other coolant hoses they click in place (except the heater hose)

I will also replace the crank sensor while I’m in there. It’s easy to do at the back of the engine bay with the intake manifold out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220608/cc162b1d193e63fb48daeef4bff91a67.jpg

I will have a known good crank sensor to store away, just in case.

I have some more parts to gather. Primarily the crankcase breather system (CCV).These cars, or most European cars, have peculiar arrangements for this.

On this car, it is known for the CCV system to fail and leak oil (like my e46 wagon). Also, the warm climate version, like my car has, is known to create ring float that increases oil consumption.

This car had this condition when I bought it. I would lose about a 1/2 liter every 2500 miles. It’s surprisingly common. However, because I drive in vacuum a lot, this has greatly decreased or eliminated the oil consumption. The warm climate CCV just doesn’t do a great job. The replacement will be the cold weather climate CCV, which has a few more parts in the design to create a better connection between the intake manifold and the crankcase.

There are a handful of other items I’ll be replacing, again because I’m in there, that should alleviate my anxieties and bring this car up to my standards for reliability and partial track duty.

[kung fu jesus]

In other news, summer arrived.

Just your average freeway Atlanta rush hour near downtown.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220613/db1408e314ae6cd14c3f810fdecddbf9.jpg

[Agent☣Orange]

Slow down you maniac!

[turboedpickup]

Man I just saw a bimmer 5 series wagon being sold. Looked so good, and I just love the look of a wagon. rwd, manual, 6 cylinder.

[kung fu jesus]

BMW wagons are my jam.

If this car shunts, I’ll be looking for one to stuff this drivetrain into.

[kung fu jesus]

Bought this car 1 year ago today. I still look over my shoulder at it after parking. It is still a handsome car to me.

[HarryB]

E39 & E46 are peak BMW design for me

[kung fu jesus]

I won’t disagree.

[kung fu jesus]

Small break in the heat wave we have been experiencing. It was a mild 90 degrees instead of 100. It is supposed to be worse this coming week so I changed the oil early. 2500 miles down and the car barely consumed any oil.

I ran over some car trim on the freeway about 6 weeks ago that tore up one of the splash guards on the passenger side. Normally not a big deal, but it protects some electronics and helps guide air to the front right brake rotor.

I had ziptied it into position because it had flipped into the wheel and the tire ate it up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/f17547cdf91bc6433bd54b6c573fbbec.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/2c9d598dace3356bb870557910d5db65.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/19ca1d0fb8687e9623c41aecad4c7c9d.jpg

Splash guard removed:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/cc2baf3ae19c8a9e4519280caea4280e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/7b67aaf675216cd94cd84b8c851f5550.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/98a6b9ed4dd6378ce164aebf5c7a7c8a.jpg

I bought an aftermarket replacement. It has been rolled up in a box for about a month, so I laid it in the sun to relax and re-shape itself.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/f96e1fa7683404ead8128a0702d7925e.jpg

I reinstalled it while the oil was draining. Not terrible.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/172047c1a86072381edf72d62a64e728.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/390357cd8921152205d6c10b269aea62.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220618/53108fd6329c3b80bd28f6ff7e7f9c83.jpg

While I was already acclimated to the heat, I changed the oil on my wife’s Toyota RAV4 and rotated the tires. According to my notes, it has been 13 months since I did that and she only drove 2000 miles. She is back to seeing her clients in person so I wanted to get it up to date.

[kung fu jesus]

I am balls-deep in a maintenance reset. Long update soon!

It isn’t sexy, but really satisfying to my peace of mind.

[kung fu jesus]

The starter bendix has been sticking occasionally for probably about 6 mos. Car always starts, but it sounds terrible. I know it would fail sooner than later. The recommended method is either changing it from the top or underneath.

Since I still need to replace the rest of the coolant hoses under the intake manifold, the top method will be how I do it.

Parts to replace:
Starter
Coolant hoses under the IM (six)

While I am in there, I will also replace the PCV system. In typical BMW fashion, this is waaaay more complicated than it needs to be. They call it a CCV system. This is prone to failing, causing oil consumption, leaks, and it creates a mess. Preemptively replacing this is just good practice considering the age and mileage.

So, “while I’m in there”, I will also be replacing:

CCV system (8 parts)
Oil pressure switch
Crank position sensor
Oil temp switch
Coolant temp switch
Air/vacuum distribution seals
Throttle body gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Dipstick O rings (3)
Clean fuel injectors
Injector O rings
All vacuum hoses

Fortunately, BMWs of this era use positive release connectors in the electronics and coolant fittings.

Let’s get this party started. Removed the airbox, strut tower brace.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/a84aac2b58620b88e8417acaa5b3cc9a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/1eef7da12b056ea7955f6ec20cc98968.jpg

All this Is basically coming out:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/ca4cff5edf9e92b840c9f4bd65d10d4c.jpg

IM is out:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/da725916ceebcb4c9f7ed36470498fb2.jpg

Now I have room to cha cha real slow.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/70f46a6282aa36a4733ac3ad6114a2ba.jpg

Let’s pause and talk about garage upgrades. I recently added air con to the space, so it was in the low 90’s (32-35 C), humid, typical Atlanta summer weather. I also insulated the garage door.

So while it is this outside
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/af0e49b60ebb636a92f9e1da08f72634.jpg

It is this in the garage

https://youtube.com/shorts/1a_p5dzxOpA?feature=share

I also added an Alexa dot, so I can jam out handsfree, which is great!

Enough jibber jabber, back to work! I managed to get the starter out. There was some struggle, but I got it. So glad to have a cool dry environment for that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/12b13325afb3fcfdfcb1997767bc8e2c.jpg

I see you, flywheel.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/e4bf9b200c9c3c033718d453f74423d7.jpg

Brand new starter installed, no remans, please.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/57356811ba84d018b74ebc249f4729c6.jpg

Having the starter out made changing the crank position sensor a breeze. It was working fine, but it’s better to replace with a quality replacement AND have a known good spare, especially in this time of shortages and supply chain issues.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/84dc7805fb00b68849cb50c814e4ce63.jpg

Next, I turned my attention to the fuel injectors. They were very clean, so even testing them in a rigged up bench system, the patterns were good and even. Wish I had taken pics of that, but it was just a 12v battery, leads, tubing, and some solvent. Slapped on new o rings, reinstalled back in the fuel rail, and set it aside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/bf149d3ae07bd03cb1cc92f856913f84.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/481f6dc0b42c0803fba957f17783c3f8.jpg

Oil pressure sensor is next
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/4da78d98d588ac08d3d2a04b14da35f1.jpg

Cleaned the air/vacuum distribution plenum, new o rings, this is also part of the PCV system.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/f03938ec132ef5c7fe1b552caed41e56.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/65d30bf29ea732dc6190305413240195.jpg

Refurbed the dipstick, new seals. The short tube is part of the PCV system, also replaced.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/2ef31c4c57942cd87f8ace5ee53cdc5d.jpg

New upper intake boot, known for cracking. New on top, old on bottom.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/5c9f316ac8b1ea4e8a3943192b20a779.jpg

Transferred over jubilee clamps and set aside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/f91739c29166eb17612faa142fd58772.jpg

Next up, oil and coolant temp sensors. These are the same parts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/958449728d613eeffc550afaff381843.jpg

Coolant temp sensor in the head.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/52fc5a4ad9990ede1b11aff6c35f3e91.jpg

Oil temp sensor in the block.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/a5fcf6b8cbc5f1e18cd19d70962a1e5a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/0aeddcad758e62fde2d8070b20247c22.jpg

Time to start replacing coolant hoses, yay! There are two hard plastic hoses that plug into the head about an inch. They were turning brown, like a plastic miata radiator dries when it gets brittle. Definitely caught these in time!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/1555db9714275eca2f2c6ab439390fea.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/e8aac2b2a70e2ab3c0bc9861fcfadfc6.jpg
When I removed these two, their nipples broke off in the head. Fortunately, I was able to dig them out relatively quick. New one on left, old on right. This demonstrates how much broke off in the head.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/0fe33e652d895c37e1bbc0d937d5ebfd.jpg

This is the box of discarded old parts. This grew at an alarming rate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220724/448f8815e63cf4e2028c507775e670ca.jpg

Next installment soon!

[ScratchNSniff]

Love the attention to jobs literally EVERY time I open up this thread!!!

[kung fu jesus]

Thank you, sir! I appreciate that!

Continuing with the reset, Day 1…

The throttle body needed some love. This was before:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/756498583db96ee214a919cdd5117b9e.jpg

This was after.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/69bd9e1395cc8f70b788552a58aa8c0f.jpg

Idle speed controller up next!

Getting a little sooty.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/3ef9f2e6282241ae0b9ea71a2bbc3539.jpg

After
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/180c1c6f7f80236f6f561499f0edeada.jpg

All the rubber vacuum pieces were perished. It was a matter of time before I developed leaks. This stuff was dried out and crumbly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/b8ec005f60ecc6bf3c8820c1dd616ea5.jpg

That includes the rubber caps on the intake manifold.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/ef197a3ccfcf55dedf800dfdec6f1dfb.jpg

Looking closer…
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/07c60c0f0e8fae9c307433812690e572.jpg

D.E.A.D.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/98b7f07de9641290ba4b2ec480d4338b.jpg

Had this little box of rubber caps, total life saver.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/2590d1e1be48592054dfb64fece2abfe.jpg

I ended the day tidying up the engine bay. It was already very clean.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/55fc1e119d9860a034cf3652a69e3c1e.jpg

https://media0.giphy.com/media/3o7aCWJavAgtBzLWrS/giphy.gif

The next morning, I headed out to get a coolant system pressure tester. I sure didn’t want to put everything back together only to find I didn’t seat one of the hoses well enough.

Back in business!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/9b75967b45b77b9774fb2c11039d5623.jpg

I assembled the PCV system to the IM.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/23fe9bd4d15e4ff4fda0ad349c1b59ac.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/9fd2630e16c624afaa2b1458931be394.jpg

Wrapped up the cooling system and tested it before reinstalling the manifold assembly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/ff68acc1941243b73458b9ea32f5af99.jpg

No leaks! Good to go ahead and install the manifold.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/19455cfcf6e44dcbe167b39903e635e3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/cfedb7453421da6758d63824dde010b0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/e09a02cd4a0f19bb93ba6071d5ae4389.jpg

Then I found out I forgot to connect one little hose. It was a quarter inch purge hose to the back of the manifold. Yes, the manifold had to come back off.

https://media0.giphy.com/media/l2JhtKtDWYNKdRpoA/giphy.gif

There were a few (a lot) profanities mumbled (yelled). I may have disparaged German engineers as fornicating female parents. I dunno, I may have just blacked out.

A few hours later, I buttoned up the engine bay, bleed the coolant system, took a deep breath, and prayed to Xenu for an easy start with no codes.

https://youtu.be/wYjh2CkFvn0

Success! The starter sounds healthy, the engine runs smooth, best yet, no codes.

I cleaned up the garage, put tools away. Exhausted, I stumbled into the house to take a shower and pet my dogs.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220725/365024ad646604f3069eb98cb2e4e5d3.jpg

I figure this job saved me about $1000 doing it myself.

[kung fu jesus]

Sit rep: car runs exceptional. New starter spins faster, throttle resolution is much sharper, low-mid range is definitely much stronger. It digs from a stop noticeably harder. Feels great!

[Agent☣Orange]

Have you ever tried a throttle controller like Pedal Commaner? https://pedalcommander.com/

[HarryB]

This kind of stuff is therapeutic. Have you by any chance stumbled upon this guy yet?
https://www.youtube.com/c/M539Restorations
Think you gonna like him.

[kung fu jesus]

It has shown up in my YT feed but haven’t watched yet. Thanks for the rec!

[kung fu jesus]

Orange;243761]Have you ever tried a throttle controller like Pedal Commaner? https://pedalcommander.com/

No, BMWs TBW is actually pretty good. That may be helpful on a lot of the Toyota/Lexus products I have owned. Their TBW are difficult to modulate, especially from a stop or a slow roll.

[kung fu jesus]

I was monitoring my settings in the Torque app tonight. The car ran fine before all this but I noticed the fuel trims are running pretty much perfect. I suspect cleaning the TB and ISC, and replacing the last bits of rubber on intake and vacuum systems probably eliminated some very, very minor leaks that had been creeping in. Not enough to throw a code, but enough where the fuel trims we’re adjusting to compensate.

[kung fu jesus]

RIP undertray. :(

I must not have attached one side properly. On a short Highway blast after making repairs above, the passenger side dropped to the road.

This corner rubbed off in short order.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/fa43221420bfb3d21d20fc8bd93e92b2.jpg

What could this possibly be?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/1932a6ceccb9c2a39864f9d3a1968e3b.jpg

Old vs new. Fortunately, FCP Euro had them on sale (with their lifetime warranty) for $135 shipped. Really not that bad! I was expecting $200. This piece is not only handy for keeping water out of the engine bay, but crucial for guiding air through the proper openings for the radiator and condenser.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/e6a4dcdcadee7c84b1970e87c8465c0f.jpg

Road kill
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/5acd9b7037a49012402df8eac67dce9e.jpg

These under trays use ‘speed screws’. They screw into those pinch clip-type nuts underneath in about 1 turn. These make removal/install really easy, but I just didn’t check my work as this was literally the last part to reinstall after a long job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/aad0f67a3dbdf09bba5d3d70f1547b26.jpg

I removed these from the old tray to re-use elsewhere. They are super-handy.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/279ce8a9f35623ecb4b8c9b6dd8cf365.jpg

I quartered the old tray handily with a cordless sawzall to recycle (and fit in the bin)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/69b0b57ad882114615d1f12488c38465.jpg

[kung fu jesus]

I ordered a few new pinch clip nuts for the side that failed, just in case. Those should be arriving later today. :)

[kung fu jesus]

And they did!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/5f16badb5582f6d7c831d53897f62cfd.jpg

It might have taken longer to put the car on ramps than it did to install the belly tray.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/ceae2dbd55bdc97a3bf11c2b561e17d1.jpg

This was the side I didn’t secure correctly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/6f81b34ffcecc3169ac39a213f788509.jpg

Two more on the driver side…
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/ccf5fd2f83c7119c53dfaed7f6925bcb.jpg

Three at the back.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/2cb221a7dae6b1b966c8cf9eb58664b2.jpg

The leading edge of the tray fits into an edge moulded into the bottom of the front bumper. It is a snug fit, helps to keep the bumper rigid.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/0940603ac88a4f4a7cca25792a611a60.jpg

With the tray installed, you can see how it fits and integrates with the other undercarriage pieces.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/64afb81825632317fac7ef3b7afb4dd3.jpg

Maybe not the best angle, but this shows how it also helps guide air under the car. So, when the one side popped off, the wind did the rest and forced it into the tarmac.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220729/d022aabcc97aef89088568f0c65bae99.jpg

Fin.

[kung fu jesus]

Knocked out these after dinner tonight. Just another OEM+ upgrade that eliminates 17 year old parts, resets a critical system, and future-proofs this car for some track use.

Some fresh Ate 200 and insurance for freeing up brake line connections.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/6d57e29856c5bff508b3a4d030bc993c.jpg

Wheels up, then off. Started with the corners furthest from the master cylinder.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/4c19dd85edcd12dddc112cf002783d8c.jpg

Fresh stainless braided lines going in! Right rear first.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/4e59ae940ffcb25e8fc257663916aa76.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/ed8584f51793e67067d6fba721fef222.jpg

Left rear up next. Smooth sailing so far.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/5e1f3d20bf41ebd0beab467b755904d5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/aae15d836be5157ed7ce34ed17aae06d.jpg

With the rears installed, I recruited my wife to help me flush and bleed these before starting on the fronts. She knows the procedure cold, so 15 minutes later, she left and I started the fronts.

Front right underway.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/9ef1ef14a6cfd20325e9397df103e676.jpg

New line installed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/4913057a1346329d1ed38693209c0e35.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/323550015f33d700a85f67ca1b8016a9.jpg

Better shot of the inner splash shield I replaced on the front right.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/a4358723284b8e7b4f64efc6572921c3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/502ac2e051d47003aaea7b433c21bfd0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/0e9946b2f4ec29fbd1bdfdcab2aa03df.jpg

On to the front left.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/edbbc389e0de37120038bfe34696e4b9.jpg

Same as the other side. Easy stuff, bless garage-kept Southern cars. Everything came apart like new. I coerced my wife to help me bleed the fronts.

A pan full of crusty lines. No cracks, but the rubber was VERY stiff. Not good for track duty, or any other duty really.
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Quick 2 hour job, brakes feel great! Less pedal travel, better feel for modulation. Success!

[kung fu jesus]

113039 miles, according to the records, the trans and diff fluid were done about 60k miles ago. This should be the last of the major service to reset the car (Woot!).

Diff fluid: Valvoline synthetic 75w90.
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Car up on jackstands, leveled out, I started with the differential. Fill on the back (left) drain on the right (under the axle). Both are female 14mm hex.
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Super simple. The fluid was extremely clean, so I suspect the shop that welded up the rear subframe reinforcements changed it out.
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Speaking of rear subframe, I took this opportunity to re-torque all the subframe bolts that were disassembled back in February when I had the reinforcements done. Just a little kick on each one.
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At this point an emergency weather alert came across. My wife opened the door to tell me there was ping pong ball-sized hail in the area.

Great.

That is Texas-type hail. We don’t get that here much at all. I’m thinking of taking the car down to get my wife’s car now sitting in the driveway outside so I can do this work back in the garage, but I’m at the point where I can finish the transmission fluid in the same amount of time as I can to drop the car, so I keep pressing with the quickness.

ZF 6 speed decal to confirm I have the right fluid.
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Fill plug a little left of center, drain underneath, both are female 8mm hex, the same part.
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Draining was pretty quick as it was still warm from an earlier drive. It was dark but not terrible, no discernible shavings or chunks.
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Took about 1.8 quarts. I wanted to use Valvoline Synchromesh, but none could be found locally. Parts store sold me Royal Purple Synchromax at the same price for my inconvenience. That was a pretty nice discount, pretty much the second quart was free.
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With the threat of hail looming, and some serious thunder crashing around me, I furiously pumped int the new fluid, wrapped up the drips, double-checked my work, then hustled to drop the car to get both cars in the garage ASAP.

No hail appeared, just typical Southern summer thunderstorms.

I took the car for a test drive after the rain passed. The re-torque on the rear subframe removed a small squeak (nice!), the fresh transmission fluid? Wasn’t expecting the improvement it yielded. It shifted beautifully before, now it’s even better.

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Success!

[kung fu jesus]

What do you do with a car after working on it? Shake it down!

I woke up the next morning after the driveline fluids were done and really didn’t have anything important to do, so I went for a drive.

2 1/2 hours later, I’m eating lunch in Robbinsville, NC. It is M@TG weekend. Lynn’s Place, really good burger plates. Support local businesses.
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While eating lunch, I watched a storm roll into the valley. This is excellent! A lot of cars get of the roads in rain like this. I love driving in the rain, time to find some cars to play with.

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I had a clean run down the Dragon, Miatas were holding me up along the way back. Same story on Hwy 28.

Spoiler alert, Miatas are slow.

Drove to the Fontana, all sorts of stuff going on, hung out for a little bit and left around 2.

Heading out of the mountains, south back towards Atlanta, it started to clear.
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This car performed flawlessly. I was chasing down Miatas in the corners on 28, 143, and 129. AC on, torque to spare.

Made it home at 4:30, nice drive!

[kung fu jesus]

Here are some photos from my drive to the mountains.

These are on Tail of the Dragon, taken all within 30 minutes at different locations. You can see what I was driving through in that time.

It started out overcast, about 78-80 degrees. Windows down.
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It became a little brighter here, clouds thinning.
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Nope, heavy rain. Dropped to about 72 degrees. Windows up!
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Popped out into sunshine on the way back.
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[Martin]

Not even close to the double yellows. Nice.

[kung fu jesus]

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[kung fu jesus]

Brake calipers. I had an intermittent, instantaneous pull under braking. Knowing the suspension is 100%, it was one of the calipers. I had this issue on my M3 back in the day.

Centric remans were the course. I have great experience with their products on other cars.

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Pretty standard stuff. Easy repair. One thing about BMWs, they don’t mince about on their brakes. These calipers are massive. My hand is about 9” long for comparison.

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Smooth sailing.

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I confirmed my pads are under 50% thickness. I took advantage of the holiday sales last week and ordered some new, top end rotors and pads. The pads are TBD on when they ship though.

Fortunately, the new calipers have eliminated the slight, annoying pull.

More to come soon!

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[kung fu jesus]

New lighting control module!

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This controls all the lights in the car, the photo sensor, the rain sensor, the turn signal stalk, and the high-beams.

I have been having some funky issues. You know that stereotype about BMW drivers not using their turn signals? Well, mine would stay on randomly even though the stalk had returned to normal. So, I doing 80 on the freeway and my turn signal would be flashing, lol.

Also, the auto wipers would randomly cycle on a clear, sunny day. Hilarious.

I bought this during some Labor Day sales, not feeling like rolling the dice on a used unit. Usually about $500 through my preferred vendor, I grabbed this one for $400 shipped.

Of course, having all the lighting/automatic bells and whistle options spec’d on this car, it’s the most expensive one. There are 7-9 different versions depending on the options the car has.

This is where it lives:

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The light controls are merely an interface, the ECU is attached behind it.

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One slightly hard-to-reach cammed connector and it’s out.

New one was the reverse of removal.

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Now comes the real work…coding it to work properly with this particular car.

BMW put a mileage counter in this. It has to match what the instrument cluster reads, and the DME (car’s primary engine ECU) or a little “tamper dot” shows on the odometer.

So first I had to write the car’s VIN and mileage to the LCM using the coding software I bought. This eliminates the tamper dot.

But wait, there’s more!

Now I have to code the features to the LCM so it knows what it’s working with. The software worked ok for this, but I have certain features not that common on the e46, so while the LCM worked for basic controls, the auto on/off, rain sensor, auto HVAC controls didn’t work. It also threw dash lights because this car has factory LED tail lights.

Enter the SECOND software for coding. This one is waaay more powerful, but also very technical.

It’s also largely in German.

Oh, it also uses a specific OBD2 dongle with a 4-way switch that needs to be manipulated at specific point to vet this software to play nice. Because this car is an ‘05, it has both e46 and e90 componentry.

My dongles chilling on the passenger seat:

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So in summary, two software packages, two OBD dongles, 1 with a 4-way switch, 3 hours and Google translator on my phone to read the German on the laptop…I finally coded the new Lighting Control Module on the e46.

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Once I used the new software to load the right features, I went back the first software to tell it how I wanted them to work. The car thought it was euro-spec, which while those have neat appearance, there are features it’s thinks are there, but aren’t ( like rear fog lights ).

I was also able to add some hexideximal coding to add features I didn’t previously have, like a three-blink lane change signal by bumping the stalk, interior lighting features when unlocking the car, and altering the algorithm for the rain sensor.

It’s a double-edged sword, but it works now as I hoped.

One more thing…
I damaged a piece of trim that surrounds the LCM switch. I found locally Loctite sells superglue with a UV light built in. It cures the glue instantly and makes these little repairs so much easier. It was $10.

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[kung fu jesus]

More OEM+ upgrades.

I’m approaching 115k. Typical failure for the fuel pumps is between 100-150k. Proactively replacing it is the game. They are priced well (~$150) and really pretty easy. They are under the back seat.

ADDITIONALLY, these cars suffer from fuel starvation in long , right-hand sweepers at around 1/2 tank and less.

The tank is saddle-shaped to clear the driveshaft. There is an equalizer pump, a small trough under the pump, but no baffle.

To alleviate this, some companies offer a pump connected to the sending unit on the left side that pumps directly to the main pump on the right. The other option is to use the OEM baffle from an M3. This is a pretty much a little plastic container that clips into the trough and the equalizer pump fills this up. A little hole at the bottom empties on top of the fuel sock of the main pump. Perfect!

Here we go!

This is a the fuel pump assembly and tank seal.
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This a new baffle/ surge tank from an e46 m3.
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Here is the install:

The bottom of the rear seat pops right out exposing the access panel to the fuel pump.
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4 10mm nuts and the cover lifts off, exposing the top of the fuel pump assembly. Simply slide back the lock on the electrical connector and remove it. Then cut off the hose clamp.
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Slide off the fuel hose and collect any spillage.
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Next, using a prybar and a mallet, I spun off the metal retaining ring that secures the pump to the top of the tank.
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I carefully lifted out the old pump assembly and seal. What you see here is the plastic trough the fuel socks on the pump sit on. The equalizer tube is not shown, but connects to this trough on the right.
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The M3 baffle simply clips on top of the trough and the equalizer tube is reinstalled into the top of the surge tank on baffle. Easy!
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I currently have less than 4 gallons in the tank.
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New tank seal installed.
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New fuel pump assembly drops in, it lines up with a notch at the top. Reinstall the retaining ring and tap the ring clockwise with the mallet and bar until tight.
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New clamp for the fuel hose, reinstall the electrical connector.
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A little cleanup, then pop the seat bottom back in, reconnect the battery, fire it up and check for leaks. That’s it! 30 minutes.
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Here is the old, original fuel pump. I may hang on to this in case the baffle doesn’t work very well. I’ll attach the old pump to the sending unit on the left to transfer more fuel through the tops of the assemblies (note the blocked off nipples at the top of the assemblies).

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Fuel pickup socks
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The nipple at the 5 o’clock position below can be opened to accept another hose to transfer more fuel if I go with a dual pump config to prevent starvation.
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[kung fu jesus]

Brakes.

I have been sitting on a set of brand new Zimmerman rotors since August. The pads were done on this car in ‘15. They have done their job admirably.

I have been having a HELLUVA time finding race pads. I originally ordered Stop Tech 309s, but after 45 days, the vendor told me they are on indefinite back order. Yay, supply chain!

I ordered Hawk HP+. I tried them, took them off after 200 miles. I hate them; the (lack of) bite, the noise, the dust, and the squish. I had sworn off Hawks years ago, should have just bit the bullet and gone top shelf for the Ferodos.

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The fronts were pretty much done.
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I ordered Akebono Euros for my DD duties. They arrived and I got to work. Also, the calipers I replaced were uncoated, so I bought a G2 paint kit to do at the same time.

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The G2 paint is a two-part epoxy paint. Pour the activator in the can, shake, clean brakes with supplied brake cleaner, then apply with a brush (also supplied). It’s self-leveling and dries in about 3 hours. Ready to drive in 24. Pretty happy how it turned out.

There is MORE than enough paint to do the calipers, brackets and touch-ups. Had a lot left over, so I painted the clutch slave I plan to install soon.

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I deep-cleaned the wheels while waiting for the calipers to dry.

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I reinstalled the wheels, and now I wait for the paint to cure.