Undercarriage swap questions

[blenderblast]

I have two Miatas. A '90 and a '97.
I'm going to be swapping the whole front end (suspension, brakes, wheels etc..) from the '97 to the '90.
I'll be swapping the whole rear end as well.

I cannot seem to find any write-ups on any of these swaps.
What I want to know is if I can just unbolt whatever bolts, drain the brake fluid and whatever, just so I can remove the complete front end. Like, still have the brakes, steering, suspension bits and everything on so I can just bolt it on to the other car.. has this been done before? Where can I find this information?

[Frenchmanremy]

I guess you'd undo anything and everything that looks like it attaches to the body or a part you don't want, and swap.
Never seen a write-up about it at all. But that's my inexperienced wild guess! Just trying to help!

[blenderblast]

No, thanks for the reply.
I know there are people on here who have been on the different miata forums a lot, I figure some one will know if there was a write up or not.

[Doward]

Check my build thread. I did this last weekend.

There's 4-6 bolts/studs on each subframe, swaybar end links, brake lines, shock mounts, fuel lines, wiring harness, shift knob, speedo cable, done.

You will want 2 pieces of wood about 8-10" long to put between the front lower control arms and the front subframe. These will keep the "chassis" at ride height making it easier to roll around. I have more pictures I can post tomorrow after I get home.

[kung fu jesus]

It is pretty straight forward. The two cars you list have the same subframes, but the 97 will have accomodations for the extra bracing in the rear. I don't think the 97 ladder bracing will fit the 90 because it partially attaches to the unibody, IIRC.

You are going to have to support the engine and tranny or just pull them out to do the front subframe.

A fully dressed front subframe weighs about 150#, the rear even more if the differential is still in it.

You will have to disconnect the brake lines at the front, where the flexible lines meet the hardlines. I am trying to remember the rear line configuration, but I believe it is the same for the rear. If you pull the engine and tranny, it should be easier to do. You will have to disconnect the clutch slave and fuel lines. It may seem like more work, but it is easier to work on with the lumps oit of the engine bay. You will have to disconnect the power steering hoses, if applicable.

The tranny and engine should be drained if you plan to pull them. With the driveshaft out, your tranny fluid will pour out the tailshaft if the tranny is angled back to remove. You can plug the rear seal if you don't want to drain it with a clean rag and some tape.

[Doward]

OP, are you planning on doing this on a lift or the ground with jackstands? Fu makes some good points about weight that i didnt take notice of. I did this with the use of a 2 post lift and basically lifted the body off, as opposed to dropping all the heavy bits out the bottom.

[blenderblast]

I was going to be doing this with jack stands.
It didn't occur to me that the engine couldn't stay in the car.
I don't have p/s, so that's a plus.

[kung fu jesus]

The engine mounts to the front subframe.