So I saw my first Miata with a Short Nose Crank issue today

[SSgtShady]

Last night I found a 91 with 178k on CL that had a hardtop for 2400. Immediately I called to go see the car. Upon arriving, I was told 'the car has huge power loss, I dont know what happened'. It was running when I got there and upon looking down at the pulley, you could plainly see the death wobble going on. Guy swears this 91 was a later VIN number and I actually believe that, but in talking with him, it really sounds like this car may have gotten an engine swap at some point and a SNC eng put in. The car actually never got shut off while I was there so I never got to see the pulley sitting still my self, but he says it has the 8 holes(he offered that info, and thats a long crank). So it doesnt make complete sense. But, seeing what the car was doing and watching the pulley do the funky chicken, I am very confident on this one. I am thinking perhaps someone installed the updated pulley with the wrong bolt? Perhaps as an attempt to fool someone? Its wobbling like crazy though and he says the car literally has half the power it did. I was very thankful that he was honest with me and that he basically said as soon as I got there, hey I can't sell you this car. I've offered to buy the car as is but of course that'd be at a much lower price -- other than that it was a pretty decent car.

[The Driver]

Man, a perfect car with 178K miles is at best a $1K car in my book. One with a bad engine? He would have to pay me, for me to take it!

[SSgtShady]

Here is my thing: It has a hard top which was in pretty good shape. That by itself is worth a grand. If I could get the car for 500 or 1000 dollars, I could put a plug motor in it for about a grand, or I could part the car out and make more than what I paid back... just with the top alone!

also I would say this, I dont really want a 91 or a 1.6 for that matter... my 'perfect' car is a 94-97 with LSD or a 2001, but, its the hard top alone really that made me even go see this car

[Phatmiata]

I would have offered less / bought the car and kept the hardtop and flipped the car. :P


BTW I edited your title for easier search later on, carry on !

[John J]

I have previously read that even a long-nose can develop a wobble like the short nose if the long nose pulley has been improperly installed. An improper installation will cause damage to the keyway.

[atank]

Get it cheap, do a 1.8 swap and drive the shit out of it!....or do a v8 swap and drive the shit out of it!!!:mrgreen:

[WASABI]

Well, it would be nice to see the pulley at rest to look at the slots (4=SNC, 8=LNC), but you can also check that against the VIN#. (VIN 209447 or more is long nose crank). I wonder too, if the rubber on the pulley itself is worn? Either way, if you can get him down to $1500,00 it sounds like a deal. Good luck.

-Jim

[SSgtShady]

Yeah, like I say my offer to buy the car is on the table as is. He said he'll get back once he knows what he wants to do. I work on A-10C's for a living, and I'm not afraid of a little 1.6; I've got no issues heading to harbor freight and buying a hoist and a eng stand and yanking the engine out. Conversly, like I say the top is worth 1000-1200 itself and I can simply buy this car to part it; I could probably make 1000 off the rest of the car and keep the top for what ever cherry car I actually buy to drive, ahaha. Which, speaking of cherry cars, I saw a 94 last night that showed really well, I was falling in love with it; only problem, is the kelly BB for it in 'excellent' shape is 2450, and I'd actually grade the car on the high side of fair, which the fair value is 1675; I offered 1800 for the car and the guy balked, he wanted 3450 and said his low point is 3000, i said, hey 2100 is the best I can do!

[atank]

Yeah, like I say my offer to buy the car is on the table as is. He said he'll get back once he knows what he wants to do. I work on A-10C's for a living, and I'm not afraid of a little 1.6; I've got no issues heading to harbor freight and buying a hoist and a eng stand and yanking the engine out. Conversly, like I say the top is worth 1000-1200 itself and I can simply buy this car to part it; I could probably make 1000 off the rest of the car and keep the top for what ever cherry car I actually buy to drive, ahaha. Which, speaking of cherry cars, I saw a 94 last night that showed really well, I was falling in love with it; only problem, is the kelly BB for it in 'excellent' shape is 2450, and I'd actually grade the car on the high side of fair, which the fair value is 1675; I offered 1800 for the car and the guy balked, he wanted 3450 and said his low point is 3000, i said, hey 2100 is the best I can do!


I love the 1.6 engine, maybe the guy will take your offer and you can fix it and keep it on the road!

[MartinInShorts]

Good luck with the purchase. I have a 92 with the 1.6 and I must say it is the most alive engine I have driven.

[I<3flippyheadlights]

All cranks can develop a wobble. My friends 1.8 got it a few times. If it isn't severe you can always loctite it. But if it has wobbled too much it can't be fixed.

[Stealth97]

Man, a perfect car with 178K miles is at best a $1K car in my book. One with a bad engine? He would have to pay me, for me to take it!

Getting paid to take away a nice car with a hardtop. Yeah, that'll be the day...

[BoBo]

All the cranks can developed the wobble if the key is installed wrong, I used thread-locker near the key when I installed a new timing belt on my old 92 miata, it should help in the future if things get loose. Maybe a 1.8 is good for the extra torque, but for the labor to do the swap, I don't know if it's worth it. Both 1.6 and 1.8 are slow. I just drove an 02 NB the other day, maybe it's a little faster than my 96, but I could barely notice it. And the 1.6 miata is just a bit slower than my 1.8....Boost is the key.

[3MiataFamily]

Yeah, like I say my offer to buy the car is on the table as is. He said he'll get back once he knows what he wants to do. I work on A-10C's for a living, and I'm not afraid of a little 1.6; I've got no issues heading to harbor freight and buying a hoist and a eng stand and yanking the engine out. Conversly, like I say the top is worth 1000-1200 itself and I can simply buy this car to part it; I could probably make 1000 off the rest of the car and keep the top for what ever cherry car I actually buy to drive, ahaha. Which, speaking of cherry cars, I saw a 94 last night that showed really well, I was falling in love with it; only problem, is the kelly BB for it in 'excellent' shape is 2450, and I'd actually grade the car on the high side of fair, which the fair value is 1675; I offered 1800 for the car and the guy balked, he wanted 3450 and said his low point is 3000, i said, hey 2100 is the best I can do!

forget about KBB with the Miata...good looking ones typically trade hands for 50% more...and higher...depends on local market conditions and time of year...in New england prices go down in September/october..and up in april/may..mileage..overall condition..etc..etc and KBB lumps all Miatas together..M editions and specials command a bigger price premium...research is your friend on pricing...and being aware of local market conditions...the guy will probably get right at, or close to his $3k bottom line...

[BlitzWing]

I find myself agreeing with the idea of buying it just for the top and then flipping the rest as spares or repairs