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View Full Version : Phil's 10AE STR/Track/DD build thread



pmhaddad
01-01-2012, 01:21 PM
I bought my 10AE in July after moving to Tampa from Michigan. I have very specific goals with this build, which I outline briefly below:

Goals
1) For the time being has be DD-able. Essentially this just means that I can't have it down for more than a day or two at a time, so major internal work is off the table right now.
2) I put a larger emphasis on being able to track it and drive it home than Autox. As much fun as zooming around in a parking lot is, HPDE and time attack is more my thing. Plus the NB isn't really that competitive in STR, but it is a fun way to spend a Saturday afternoon.
3) I adhere to my "don't make a slow car fast, just buy a fast car" motto. Meaning no V8 swap, turbo, etc - I'm staying NA.
4) The main goal is for me to learn how to drive a lot better and move into Spec Miata in a couple years. Or quicker, we'll see.

A little background on the car - I bought it with 63k on the clock, it now has a touch over 69k. I have no background on the car other than it was owned by a CPA in Sarasota and he let it sit outside. A lot. It was very rarely driven, and it showed as it was pretty rough around the edges when I purchased it. I didn't mind that as much as I got it for a pretty solid deal ($6000 out the door).

A couple pics of it a day or two after I picked it up:

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282770_635453523947_6607392_33721550_7527181_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284490_635453648697_6607392_33721555_526703_n.jpg

The Issues:

It was blowing a P0420 when I bought it. Within a week I had the Good-Win Racing Roadstersport3 Midpipe and a new coilpack (thanks Ed!) installed. I verified that the plugs and wires were new. Gave it an oil change and ran a can of Seafoam through it. After a few more days driving it I realized that it was REALLY, REALLY rough starting when hot. After some digging, I decided the culprit was the Camshaft Position Sensor and ordered a OEM replacement from RockAuto. Problem solved. I also replaced the thermostat and got the radiator completely flushed. At this point it was running well enough to start on the mods.

The Mods:

Below is a list of the current mods (1/1/2012):


15x8 6ULs wrapped in 225 45 15s with the alloy lugs and valves.
Raceland Header (thanks again Ed!)
Roadstersport3 Midpipe
Hard Dog Hardcore Hardtop Double Diagonal with harness tabs.
Mazda Comp motor mounts.
Motorcraft trans and diff fluid.



Below are a few pics with those mods installed:

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312774_663862172787_6607392_33981569_1768254892_n. jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/302651_664128444177_6607392_33983014_747281997_n.j pg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/394752_683336565947_6607392_34040959_17157423_n.jp g

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381901_683336685707_6607392_34040964_131996879_n.j pg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/391795_683336865347_6607392_34040967_2031742588_n. jpg

Some thoughts on the mods:

1) Wheels/tires: best thing ever. Only regret is not being able to do 15x9 due to stock springs. Will be getting a set of 15x9s for the track at some point.
2) Raceland header: for the price, its amazing! Tough to install, the trick is to undo the EGR valve from the intake side and a lot of patience! Also since I have an earlier one, the BFH mod on the header was required, as well as shaving some of the trans bell housing. I've heard that headers made 2010 or later don't have this problem. On the butt dyno feels like 3-5hp increase, definitely a much better pull at 4-6k and I can bump the rev limiter in 4th now.
3) Motorcraft: I won't bother using anything else. Feels like a full shifter rebuild.

Future:

Got HP+ pads and new rotors going on in a few days (waiting on rotors). This will be a bi-yearly maintenance item at a minimum.

Still finalizing what exactly I want to do for suspension. At this point I'll be on 550/300 or 500/300 with my current Bilstiens and GC (or ebay knockoff) sleeves. 36mm bumpstops from FCM and Racing Beat 1.125 tubular + hardware will complete the setup. Will be getting a set of re-valved Bilstiens probably in the late summer or fall and maybe bump up the spring rate at that point. Long term I'll be running Xidas (when I get that raise).

Hardtop. 'Nuff said.

Roadstersport3 Muffler. Gotta finish that exhaust, yo.

17" Kirkey's with a 5 or 6pt harness. Safety first.

KOYO 37mm double core radiator and hardware. For those hot summer track days at Sebring.

That's it for now. First track day is at Homestead in late Feburary with Chin. Not 100% sure if I'll have the new suspension on by then or not.

Thanks for stopping by, and if you read it this far, thanks for reading!

Cheers,
Phil

ShadowMX5
01-02-2012, 09:18 PM
Looks good! I'll be following this for sure :D

I<3flippyheadlights
01-02-2012, 09:28 PM
You will have that new suspension in, we will make sure of it!

pmhaddad
01-03-2012, 07:11 AM
Looks good! I'll be following this for sure :D

Thanks man! Yours is pretty slick as well :cool:

pmhaddad
01-07-2012, 10:44 AM
This post is two-fold, I outline my thoughts on my new pads and the suspension setup I have chosen.

For those of you that will find this tl;dr I'll summarize - HP+ F/R with Carbotech SM rotors from Saferacer for brakes and GC 550/350 + FM 1" FSB, FM 5/8"RSB, RB Endlinks, FCM 36mm bumpstops for suspension. The brave may continue reading.

Brakes

Just got the HP+ pads bedded in. Sadly I didn't get a chance to take any pics during the install as it was late last night and dark cell phone pics suck anyways. Some thoughts:

1) Tough to bed in on the street, but I did my best just to get them pretty hot. Make sure to work the e-brake to get the rears up to temp.

2) I sat for probably 40ish minutes waiting for them to cool. Don't listen to the guidelines that state you need only wait 15 minutes, gotta let those things cool all the way.

3) Haven't put many miles on them since bedding them in (~15 or so) and they do squeak a bit when cold, but when they get up to temp they are fine. We were really liberal with the caliper grease and parts cleaner when we installed them, so that helps.

4) These aren't for the faint of heart, while they aren't a solid track pad per se, they are VERY dusty (hence my black wheels) and if you don't bed them in properly will be quite noisy. For me they seem to be a great dual purpose pad, they get up to temp very quick, and bite really well. We'll see how well they do on the track shortly.

Overall on the street in the little I've driven it I don't notice a difference over the OEM setup other than they are more dusty than the OEM pads. A little bit of squeak initially and other than that they bite very well. I'm sure the differences will be far more apparent on track, which is where it actually matters.

Suspension

I have a more detailed thread on TBM about this (thanks to Loren and Steve for the great advice!) and I'll outline my final setup that I just ordered below. Parts should get here within a couple weeks :eagerness:

Numbers:

OEM FRC (for reference) = 60.3%

With both FM bars and 550/350:

3324.9 ft/lbs
FRC = 58.3% - I will go full hard front full loose rear, and expect to get a bit closer to 59% with that.

With both FM bars and 450/275 (Sixshooter's spring rates):

FRC = 59.5%

Also the bump freq isn't much lower - 1.99 vs. 2.2, so while the ride is less stiff, I think it will be about the same "comfort" level on the street assuming similar ride-height.

With a tubular front and 550/450 (Joe's setup):

FRC = 60.8% probably feels like less depending on his alignment (which I would love to know). Also are those 15x8s or 15x9s?

And finally with stock bars front and rear and 550/350:

FRC = 58.6%

Alignment

Going Icehawk specs:

Front:
Max caster
-1.5 camber
close to 0 toe-out

Rear:
-2.0ish camber (will start at -2 and tweak from there).
1/16" toe-in


I'll update this thread when I get the parts here and start installing them. Thanks for reading!

stormin'norman
01-07-2012, 10:50 AM
Switch your camber numbers front to rear if possible. You are trying to track this thing right? Don't be fooled into the m.net way of thinking.

**edit: I should add that those numbers would be fine just very "safe" with an understeer tendency.

pmhaddad
01-07-2012, 10:53 AM
Switch your camber numbers front to rear if possible. You are trying to track this thing right? Don't be fooled into the m.net way of thinking.

**edit: I should add that those numbers would be fine just very "safe" with an understeer tendency.

So you are saying -2 Front -1.5 rear? With the FRC being a little lower I feel its going to be pretty neutral - maybe a hint of oversteer. I always lean toward a bit of understeer when setting things up as its a bit easier to handle. What numbers to you run on your track car? I may go with something a bit more conservative like -1.5 front, -1.8 rear to start with as well.

stormin'norman
01-07-2012, 11:03 AM
I would peruse through here.
http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx

nb8c
01-07-2012, 07:00 PM
Switch your camber numbers front to rear if possible. You are trying to track this thing right? Don't be fooled into the m.net way of thinking.

**edit: I should add that those numbers would be fine just very "safe" with an understeer tendency.

+1 Less camber at the rear will get you faster lap time, our car like to be lose a bite on the rear,in order that get some fast lap. it might be wrong,but it work for me.:eagerness:

pmhaddad
01-07-2012, 08:22 PM
I guess I should make it clear that I'm in HPDE4 and at this point I'm not looking for an ultimate lap. I'm still debating what I should do, but whatever I do end up going with won't be a perfectly ideal setup for lap time as 1) I don't have the equipment or money to test it thoroughly and 2) I have to drive this to work everyday on the same tires I'm tracking it on (for now). This means I'll set it up conservatively for a bit as I get a feel for it on track. Once I get a spare set of tires/wheels as well as be able to make use of those to put together a better lap time I will.

I'm going to do a bit more research, at this point I do think I might make the F/R a little closer - perhaps -1.8 F and -1.5 rear, we'll see. Also I'll need to run as close to 0 toe as possible to limit the wear on the street. I still think Icehawk specs are a good place to start learning and tune from there.

ShadowMX5
01-08-2012, 05:35 AM
My current alignment specs with my x9 6ULs are:

-2.8 camber front
0 toe
max caster

-2.5 camber rear
0 toe

Its a decent setup for DD/track because you don't get the crazy wear from having any toe in or out, and the camber is perfect for...oh say, 60 mph slaloms :rolleyes:

pmhaddad
01-08-2012, 08:59 AM
That is a lot of camber up front. Probably helps the wear that your wheels are x9 too.

Are you running RS3s?

pmhaddad
01-12-2012, 06:16 PM
Quick update cause I'm excited! GCs got here:

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/395305_689351731507_6607392_34062983_44778848_n.jp g

Sways and bumpstops/endlinks will get here in the next week or so - targeting first weekend in Feb for the install.

Really happy I went with the GCs, looks like a solid product, can't wait to get them on the car.

ShadowMX5
01-13-2012, 03:51 AM
That is a lot of camber up front. Probably helps the wear that your wheels are x9 too.

Are you running RS3s?

Yep, running 225 RS-3's all the way around. The wear has been relatively even since I started driving on them, and the tires are holding up really well so far.

pmhaddad
02-07-2012, 06:26 PM
Got the GCs installed along with the anti-roll bars and endlinks.

Before:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269399_635453583827_6607392_33721553_932630_n.jpg

After:

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/409138_702292787527_6607392_34105195_1409210140_n. jpg

Couple more pics:

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/429152_702292817467_6607392_34105196_1740588708_n. jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402699_702292887327_6607392_34105197_2125598716_n. jpg

Right now its sitting at 12.5" F and 13.5" R ride height. I'd like to get the rear down to about 13", but I'm pretty close to the bottom of the sleeve on the GCs. I think the only way I could get to 13" rear is to crank them all the way down. Does that seem right? I haven't got it aligned yet, doing that Thursday.

Thoughts:

Not as stiff as I thought it would be actually. Most of that is probably due to the fact that I don't have re-valved shocks yet. Turn-in is a LOT better, and the reduction in body roll is awesome too. It still rolls a bit, but you want a little body roll, of course. Overall I'm really happy with how it turned out.

Thanks to everyone who helped me install it! You know who you are...

Ready for Homestead with Chin in 3 weeks! :slayer:

stormin'norman
02-08-2012, 11:49 AM
Get the rear down to 12.75.

pmhaddad
02-08-2012, 09:58 PM
Get the rear down to 12.75.

I actually just got it down to 13" tonight, it is a LOT better. I was targeting 12.5 and 13 as a starting point so I'm going to stick with that. Getting the alignment tomorrow morning.

I'll post up some stuff about installing the GC coilovers here this weekend too. It was a bigger pain than I thought it would be.

pmhaddad
02-09-2012, 06:36 PM
UPDATE: Got the alignment done. Spec'd exactly the way I wanted:

Camber F/R: -2 / -1.8
Total toe F/R: 0 / 0
Max castor Front.

The ride height right now is just a smidge under 12.5" front and 12.75" rear. Handles like a dream. First HPDE with this car in 2 weeks!

pmhaddad
02-26-2012, 03:42 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3MMveqWlUs&feature=youtu.be


First DE in the Miata at Homestead with Chin. Car is very fast. Really happy with the setup choices I've made, now finally time to do a bunch of track days! Next one is in a few weeks at Sebring. Flushing the system with RBF600 this week, the only thing I wasn't able to do was put high temp fluid in, still the brakes held up very well, just got a bit spongy near the end of the day. Sebring is far tougher on brakes though so the new fluid goes in this week. Pads and tires exhibited normal wear. I ran about 32psi cold and higher 30s hot (I think it was 38 but I don't recall). Next time I'll bring a pyrometer.

moerdogg
03-29-2012, 04:37 PM
Great-looking car. HDPE's sure look fun!

pmhaddad
04-08-2012, 07:47 PM
Great-looking car. HDPE's sure look fun!

Thanks! They are pretty addictive!