Not up to temp after re-route

[ctrench]

ok, so i installed a big aluminum radiator a while back and my temp gauge read just under 12 o' clock which is normal, then i added a coolant reroute with a 195* thermostat, and now my car takes a REALLY long time to warm up and it only gets up to like 10:30... has this happened to anyone else??

[ctrench]

anyone??

[The Driver]

I was told about this by my friends from Denver, which is why most of them removed it. It just takes to long for the engine to war up, and then they were still overheating during track days! In Denver, though the temps are cool (or COLD), they altitude interferes with an engine cooling capacity.


Why do you need that much cooling capacity?

[I<3flippyheadlights]

I think between your TSI's, cooling panel, bigger radiator and the reroute your engine just doesn't get warm enough.

[ctrench]

wow, so went from overheating with stock rad and broken fans... to super high cooling capacity and now its too cold, great. i guess there is no happy medium.... it might mean that i need that "something extra" to get the heat up :twisted:

[The Driver]

I'd start with installing a regular thermostat.

[revlimiter]

It really depends on how you did the reroute. BEGi has one way that bypasses the heater core and basically keeps the engine from coming up to temp for a long long long time. But a proper re-route will actually bring the engine up to temp quicker.

There's tons of threads on MT about reroutes. Read them.

[Soledad]

Why do you need that much cooling capacity?

This.

What are your aspirations for the car? Is all that really necessary?

I have the Koyo 37mm aluminum radiator (which is 20% more cooling capacity over factory to begin with) new OEM hoses and thermostat, the TDR radiator shroud, and TSIs and my engine is very happy with it.

I toyed with the idea of a coolant reroute kit and the more I thought about it the more I realized it was completely unnecessary for a car that doesn't get tracked and sees very limited AX time.

[mrpham]

Install a different thermostat.

Radiator/fan etc cool the coolant, not the engine. Thermostat cools the engine. That's how I like to think the cooling system works.

[ctrench]

i deleted the heater core... and i installed an oem thermostat, so it should be fine

and as far as WHY?... because literally all the cars i hae owned had overheating issues, so i wanted to never deal with that again, and my bay looks super nice now

[etikoner]

Coolant re-routes are over kill with larger radiators.

The thermostat should hopefully fix your issue, though.

[The Driver]

i deleted the heater core... and i installed an oem thermostat, so it should be fine

and as far as WHY?... because literally all the cars i hae owned had overheating issues, so i wanted to never deal with that again, and my bay looks super nice now

Congrats then. Now your engine can't even get to normal operating temp, which means you are running rich and with worst fuel economy.

[ctrench]

i drive it like i stole it and still get 26mpg... so i call that good!!

[Hyper]

FYI 195 thermostat is the OEM factory

[Hyper]

i deleted the heater core... and i installed an oem thermostat, so it should be fine

and as far as WHY?... because literally all the cars i hae owned had overheating issues, so i wanted to never deal with that again, and my bay looks super nice now

Show me how did you deleted the heater line. Show me.

[Hyper]

I'd start with installing a regular thermostat.

he already did!!!

[The Driver]

he already did!!!

He said 195 thermostat. I thought that the factory thermostat was for 210 degrees. Apologies if I'm mistaken.

[kung fu jesus]

I was told about this by my friends from Denver, which is why most of them removed it. It just takes to long for the engine to war up, and then they were still overheating during track days! In Denver, though the temps are cool (or COLD), they altitude interferes with an engine cooling capacity.


Why do you need that much cooling capacity?


Water boils at a lower temp at higher altitudes.

The reroute is effective for keeping the engine cooler across the pistons, particularly #4 which tends to run hotter in the OEM cooling configuration.

[The Driver]

Water boils at a lower temp at higher altitudes.

The reroute is effective for keeping the engine cooler across the pistons, particularly #4 which tends to run hotter in the OEM cooling configuration.

I'm talking about gents with Turbo Miatas, that are tracked. I guess I forgot to add that tidbit on my original post.