Dyno charts for Miata intakes or exhausts?

[Tnemec5]

I see all of the manufactures saying 5+hp this and 11+hp that, but are any of these backed up somewhere with charts?
I have a couple imports magazines but there is never anything Miata specific, lame

I just installed a used GReddy intake and while it sounds great I am not quite sure there is much hp gain, maybe just seat of the pants hp. Would be nice to see charts from all of the manufactures, does anyone know of such charts or have something they can scan and upload here?

[Agent☣Orange]

I recently saw some magazine on the rack about just this topic. They dyno'd a Miata before and after an intake change but I can't remember what the magazine title was.

A topic like this can run several pages of heated back and forth but generally it will come down to you not getting any noticeable gains from your butt dyno. An aftermarket intake might give you a few HP at the top of your RPM range at the cost of some lower end power. They sure sound good though.

I think most will agree that any real gains will come from upgrading the whole intake-exhaust system.

[wannafbody]

Figure 1 to 2 HP

[MX5RACER]

By intakes, I think you mean the piping from the throttle body out to the filter. I have tested a few home-built versions. A 2.5" pipe from the throttle body to a filter mounted just behind the headlight assembly and a 3" pipe that has a filter a little closer to the engine than the 2.5" set-up. The 3" intake set-up was good for 3HP at 7,000, but LOST 10FT/LBS OF TORQUE @ 4,000.

I have also tested a VCTS w/butterflies vs a VICS manifold on my VVT motor. The VICS manifold was good for 14HP @ 7,100, but below 6,000 was 2-3hp less than the VCTS manifold. Not sure if any of this helps you or not. I have dyno graphs of all my testing if you want to check them out.

[tsingson]

I noticed when I used the AEM short ram that the power curve felt like it had changed. It felt like I gained more power in the mid range over stock. Note the key word was felt. Don't know what it actually did though.

[kung fu jesus]

On the '92 (B6 engines), you won't see much gain with an intake or exhaust. Mainly nice noise makers.

If you want to uncork it, elimination of the flapper door MAF, header, exhaust, timing will yield some significant results.

Best, esiest way to eliminate the flapper is with a standalone ECU, like a Megasquirt.

[MX5RACER]

Here is the last dyno comparision I have. This is the VCTS manifold with working VTCS butterflies overlaid with a VICS manifold on my VVT motor. There were no other changes made to the car other than tuning the fuel map for the VICS manifold. The VICS butterflies are being operated at 5,400rpms. The Blue/Green line is the VCTS manifold and the Red lines are the VICS manifold. A word of caution when looking at this graph, somehow the Torque scale got changed and is different than the horsepower. If you look at the HP, look at the left side for values, TQ, right side for values.

7308

[Phatmiata]

I the 1.6L engine turn off the A/C for instant hp gain :teehee:

I kidd I kidd

I think for N/A gains you will gain more with the complete setup, intake, headers, free flow cat, and exhaust

[GENSIS]

1-4 hp on the exhaust. Do some headwork and it will help with the bolt-nns.

[Flyin 92]

If it's the 1.6L engine, turn off the A/C for instant hp gain :teehee:

Best advice so far :blaugh2:

Like KFJ said, Megasquirt would be the best option. Both the 1.6 and 1.8 cars would benefit from a stand alone and removal of the MAF/AFM. One of these days I'll pony up for a MS and ditch my AFM.

[BoBo]

^ megasquirt + headwork and bolt-onns will give decent results.However, with all that money spent, it could have been for a voodoo 2 turbo.

[Flyin 92]

Headwork will go along way no matter which route you choose.

[MX5RACER]

I just picked up a Euro "Flat Top" manifold, I hope to get it on the car and over to the dyno soon. Look for an upcoming update!

[Tungsten6]

I had a eBay intake on my car. It sounded great and throttle responce was a million times better, but in all honesty it didn't feel any faster.
Now after I did the exhaust (enthuza catback) it sounded great and It felt a lot quicker
my "power" mods were only
enthuza catback
FM lightweight flywheel (car rev'd much better)
eBay intake

towards the end of the video i floor it in 2nd. You can hear (IMO) how much quicker it gains revs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW5SztD4OPk&feature=share&list=UUdqw0abfn2WiB4A8srV_4cA

[Massiah]

No significant gains to be had as the factory ecu is quite shit, to be frank. It runs entirely too lean at the bottom/midrange and the timing map is way too conservative. You can do all the N/A things like I/H/E, headwork, cams, flat-top, etc... and maybe gain 5-10whp up top but without changing the ECU don't even spend the money.

On a dynapack hub you're looking at 80-90whp(1.6), 100whp(1.8) stock. With I/H/E and no tune - 95-100whp (1.6) & 105-110whp (1.8). Aforementioned mods + ECU is ~110whp (1.6) & 130whp (1.8 with flat-top).

The 1.6 can actually be "tuned" with the factory AFM to a certain degree. By messing with the springs for the flapper you can change the fueling a little. Timing is still conservative but a couple of 1.6's around here that have been tuned this way + I/H/E are making about 100-105whp. On a dynapack that's pretty damn good.

[The Driver]

The only CAI that has a dyno to prove it's worth is the Randall CAI. On the Flyin Miata website, they have the dyno charts. Agreed that w/o ECU there isn't a lot to gain. For years I terrorize parking garages with my Monsterflow Intake + Enthuza, but no more. It has been a week now with the factory intake. Acceleration is better and so is mileage. Next stop, Randall CAI!

[Massiah]

The only CAI that has a dyno to prove it's worth is the Randall CAI. On the Flyin Miata website, they have the dyno charts. Agreed that w/o ECU there isn't a lot to gain. For years I terrorize parking garages with my Monsterflow Intake + Enthuza, but no more. It has been a week now with the factory intake. Acceleration is better and so is mileage. Next stop, Randall CAI!On factory stuff & tune, yeah the Randall is okay. Once you increase flow through your engine & start tuning, the factory stuff (MAF/AFM & Airbox) becomes a restriction. It's a mod that's good for guys who will stop at I/H/E.

[The Driver]

On factory stuff & tune, yeah the Randall is okay. Once you increase flow through your engine & start tuning the factory stuff (MAF/AFM & Airbox) becomes a restriction. It's a mod that's good for guys who will stop at I/H/E.

How does one replaces the MAF/AFM & Airbox w/o going FI? Curious...

[MX5RACER]

How does one replaces the MAF/AFM & Airbox w/o going FI? Curious...

ECU.

[The Driver]

ECU.

Well, I'm planning to change the ECU next spring, with an AEM system, as we got a local guru here in Denver. But I still don't see how replacing the ECU gets rid off the intake and the air flow meter among other bits? Now I'm really confused!

[Massiah]

Well, I'm planning to change the ECU next spring, with an AEM system, as we got a local guru here in Denver. But I still don't see how replacing the ECU gets rid off the intake and the air flow meter among other bits? Now I'm really confused!
With a standalone you're able to run off of MAP and IAT. AFM/MAF can be deleted at that point. You don't have to, but MAP/IAT is superior to AFM/MAF and has none of the restrictive drawbacks, so why not?

In your case I would keep the monsterflow since MAF delete is much easier on that.

[The Driver]

Interesting... But even with the heatshield, I was getting heat soak while at the track. What could I do for cooler air? Got any pics?

[Flyin 92]

Interesting... But even with the heatshield, I was getting heat soak while at the track. What could I do for cooler air? Got any pics?

An extractor hood (or cut up stock hood) would be a good start to vent hot air out of the engine bay. Revlimiter built an isolation box for his monster intake and said it seemed to help keep initial intake temps down. Or you can drive your car during the winter and use the cold ambient air. I've noticed my miata felt more lively when the temperature was in the 40s or lower. Best of all it's free :P

To be honest, I've given up trying to find a CAI. Opening up the intake (remove AFM/MAF), better flowing exhaust (h/e) and advancing the timing (14* is a popular "setting") would net some benefits as far as efficiency goes, but will do little in the way of adding raw hp.

If you want to be a baller you can modify an intake manifold, cut a hole in your hood and run velocity stacks through it lol Seemed to work well for the Can-Am cars back in the day.

[The Driver]

No, no cutting of the hood, or any visible sheet metal. The firewall I'm cool with, as noone (read, me) sees that.

As for winter driving, it's done, whenever the white stuff is not on the ground. I love skiing, but I like the white stuff in the mountains, not near me in the city. After all, I'm from FL!

[MX5RACER]

One of the Spec Miata "tricks" is to lightly push down on the back of the headlight cover. This will create a small low pressure zone and pull cool-ish air into the engine bay; especially for those of us in FL.

[Massiah]

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmUJWrGpIm4/TynXxLea_QI/AAAAAAAAAVI/vO05cNQIyaQ/s1600/95R_engine_bay_1.jpg
You can do something like that, a custom cold side or cut hood vents.

Honestly heat soak is just something that not just Miatas have to deal with at the track.

[Flyin 92]

A vented headlight lid would work as well without looking like a cheap DIY solution. You'll have to remove or modify that plastic piece behind the headlight (on the hood) for it too work.

[The Driver]

Cool, I'm glad this thread was started. It has been VERY informative!

[Massiah]

If you seal off the headlight area from the rest of the engine bay then I'd say a turn signal intake on that side or a turbo scoop headlight lid. Otherwise you'll be pressurising the engine compartment which means less cooling for the radiator.

[BoBo]

^+ 1, a standalone ecu with a good tune is the only way to get the most out of your Breather mods. Plus standalone will improve your torque a bit.

[BlitzWing]

Interesting thread. I've been thinking of dabbing my toes into ECU's starting with removing the Maf and going with the GM IAT sensor and then just DIYing a induction kit to just see what happens. The goal being to familiarize myself with it before I go for ITB's down the line.