You get what you pay for - Ebay steering parts

[kung fu jesus]

So, the front right lower ball joint separated suddenly on me today. Just a pleasure cruise between tasks, no hooning, only enjoying the return of warm weather to the Carolinas.

I am unhurt, the car is remarkably well, mostly some lathing on the inside of the wheel from the control arm dropping on it and me keeping the car to a safe stop.

Here's the full story:

My wife and I were relocating from California to North Carolina. One of us was going to have to drive the moving truck, the other would follow in the NB. I hurried to ready the car for the trip, so I bought inner/outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints off Ebay from "worldsuspension". I installed them easily as I have done this job many times before. The inner tie rod ends were the wrong ones and my old ones were straight and solid so I left them in.

My wife drives this car as a daily driver, the roads aren't bad out here. It is not tracked, lowered or autocrossed. About two weeks ago, the steering became a bit rubbery and stiff, the car wasn't returning to center as it should. Figured it was caster, because my inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends gave me no play. Alignment checked out fine.

It had occurred to me that those parts may be causing the issues, as I know a few others in KINOD had issues with these parts.

Lucky for me, I wasn't on the highway. I had just made a turn and was heading straight when the front right collapsed. I feel fortunate for decent driving experience too, because I didn't panic and was able to bring the car to a controlled stop. It's funny, because before the turn, I was considering taking the freeway just a 1/4 mile up the road. I couldn't imagine what would have happened at 70mph, or worse yet, if wife had been driving it. I had the car towed to a shop I trust as I don't have the space nor possibly the correct tools to get piece of BJ still in the knuckle out. I will be requesting OEM or better, well-known manufacturer parts when the shop calls me about the car now sitting in their parking lot. Something I should have done in the first place.

Please don't make my mistake, spend the extra money on good parts, ESPECIALLY brakes, steering and suspension. If you aren't sure, ASK. That's why we have forums like this. :)

[tsingson]

Sucks to hear man. Glad you are ok though.

[etikoner]

Damn, glad you're okay! Let this be a lesson for everyone to not cheap out.

[Stealth97]

I bought a set of these myself. After hearing a couple stories on this I just threw them in the trash.

[kung fu jesus]

^ wise.

[kung fu jesus]

Looking at the log, I estimate these had ~8000 miles on them. More a third of that was from driving the I 40 coast to coast. The rest is regular home-work-home. Scary stuff.

[tanakapz]

Also another part to be afraid of.. ebay steering wheel hubs. multiple people have had them separate into two parts. definitely not something worth cheaping out on.

[treeafodo]

I don't think I would ever buy any suspension or steering parts from eBay for this reason. Glad to hear you are ok despite this.

[I<3flippyheadlights]

I almost bought eBay lwer ball joints. I changed my mind last minute and bought them from my mechanic. Thank God I did.

[RuckkehrMiata]

I always hate hearing stories about mission critical parts failing mid-drive... It is an on-going fear of mine. While it is generally unlikely for a tire to just come off while on the highway, it is not entirely unheard of (even for a well-maintained vehicle).

[SM16RMSM]

You have to watch out for what you buy. There are decent sellers out there. I selling old TRW/Moog stuff on eBay. Since my family did have a 39 chain store + warehouse automotive parts business, I have a ton of old stuff. I just sold a left and right tie rods end for 70s Chevy C10 truck. My stuff might be old and a show a tad bit of aging, but it true classic TRW parts that are Made in Canada (before Moog bought them out). BUT if your buying the true Chinese made eBay cheapo stuff, then you might want to stay away from them.

[moerdogg]

Just refreshed my car's front end with Mazda parts. General forum FYI: If you do any sorts of motorsports, I HIGHLY recommend signing up for Mazdaspeed. Parts prices for genuine Mazda stuff are competitive with or better than Rock Auto's Moog. Figure 15-20% less than anyone else sells Mazda parts.

[Phatmiata]

This is my favorite eBay Fake vs Real video


http://youtu.be/SMxB4RpCDzA

[Agent☣Orange]

KFJ, thanks for posting this at the risk of some "told you so" criticism. Life and limb are too valuable to skimp on critical parts. OEM all the way on tie rod ends.

[kung fu jesus]

Not afraid to take criticism or own up to mistakes. Would not want to see someone else make the same mistakes.

What could have been an extremely dangerous incident was relatively minor. Tow driver commented,"Wow! You're lucky you weren't going that fast!" and told me a story about another car that had a bj separate on the freeway, sending the car down an embankment into some water. The driver was stuck in the car, water up to her neck, when help arrived.

[JLBMX5]

I have been looking at a clutch and flywheel setup on eBay. When I get home I can post it and maybe you can tell me yes or no. I don't want to buy any junk just to replace in less than a year

[moerdogg]

I have been looking at a clutch and flywheel setup on eBay. When I get home I can post it and maybe you can tell me yes or no. I don't want to buy any junk just to replace in less than a year

If you are running stock power levels, an OEM 1.6L replacement kit (http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/VPM%2CCLUTCH-KIT-%28B634%252d16%252d490%252dMV%29.html) is $108 from Arlington Mazda. Given how long it takes to change a clutch, I have to think that's worth it. If you aren't at stock power levels, I wouldn't bother asking the question. There are many high-quality aftermarket kits for every power output.

[HungryR]

I also had a lower ball joint pop coming out of my drive way last year, a quick googling concluded that it happens often with miatas if you get non oem bjs... I ordered a set from arlington after that

[kung fu jesus]

I got the car back last night. All new inners/outer tie rod ends, lower BJs. It cost me a pretty penny to have it done, but I don't have the space and time (right now) to do it. It also seems to have cured a guttural 'thunk' the car has had for quite some time while turning. I will have to listen some more, but what I suspected was the steering rack may have been the inner toe rods binding or slopping around.

[BoBo]

Just get oem or exedy oem replacement on stock power. I had good success with exedy, but since your replacing the clutch, why not get act HD set in case there's future power upgrades.

[maharaj]

I have been looking at a clutch and flywheel setup on eBay. When I get home I can post it and maybe you can tell me yes or no. I don't want to buy any junk just to replace in less than a year

Also make sure that it isn't made in China!!!! :oops:

[miatadave22]

If you are running stock power levels, an OEM 1.6L replacement kit (http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/VPM%2CCLUTCH-KIT-%28B634%252d16%252d490%252dMV%29.html) is $108 from Arlington Mazda. Given how long it takes to change a clutch, I have to think that's worth it. If you aren't at stock power levels, I wouldn't bother asking the question. There are many high-quality aftermarket kits for every power output.Short question about Arlington, how did you successfuly sign up. Great prices and everything you could want BUT I tried signing up with them 3x and asked others to do the same. Ordered and paid and they refunded my order with no explanation. Same with the other orderees. Wazzup?

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[Martin]

Arlington Mazda is out of business. Try Priorty Mazda. https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com/