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Radiohead
09-27-2013, 07:03 AM
Finally got all the pieces of the puzzle in! I've had my car for 14 years and finally decided to do something about the OEM Miata stereo (that sounds like crap). Did lots and lots of research and here's what I decided to go with:

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Hertz ESK Comps
JL Audio 300/4
Alpine media receiver

The Hertz have received excellent reviews and have a tank like build quality. The 6.5s will be door mounted in PVC adapter plates. I have not decided if the tweets will go in the doors or on the A pillars.
The JL Amp is going to be bridged to run 150W to each side. As with other JL amps, the build quality is impeccable and the circuitry is first class.
I'm rounding out things with the Alpine head unit. It's simple, elegant and very muted in appearance. The Bluetooth function will allow me to stream wireless from my iPhone.

So that's it! After all the soundproofing I've done I'm looking forward to getting it all installed for the real test, listening!

SM16RMSM
09-27-2013, 07:49 AM
Let us know how it sounds when it all in.

Agent☣Orange
09-27-2013, 08:28 AM
Ooo, I love audio projects. Excellent choices there. If my Polk MMs ever give out, Hertz is at the top of my list. You're really going to have to Dynamat the door, especially around the speaker area if you want those to sound good.

Rogue
09-27-2013, 08:53 AM
I'm doing the same in my new '97PEP.
I used Infinity componets that look just like those but using a Alpine 147 head.

kung fu jesus
09-27-2013, 09:43 AM
Replace the speaker wires. It's a little bit of a PITA, but if you have the Bose, you can complete bypass it without having to dig out the amps in the center console. I can't tell what size those speakers are, but I can tell you the 8" speakers DO fit the NBs. I had to trim about 1/8" inch around the openings on mine to fit the 8" Alpines in mine. Took me all of abut 20 minutes with a pair of tin snips. The bass is WAY better. I run mine through a Polk PA330. For a Miata with the top down, it friggen' rocks.

Agent☣Orange
09-27-2013, 09:47 AM
Oh yeah, I remember now that you installed a pretty nice system a while back.

Radiohead's speakers are 6.5" components which along with an adapter plate will be a breeze to install with no cutting. I would really Dynamat the hell out of those plates and the speaker areas of the doors though.

I agree about the wiring and assume he knows that. Wouldn't make sense to buy the best audio components out there and then run it through old, 22ga wire.

Radiohead
09-27-2013, 04:52 PM
Ooo, I love audio projects. Excellent choices there. If my Polk MMs ever give out, Hertz is at the top of my list. You're really going to have to Dynamat the door, especially around the speaker area if you want those to sound good.

Thanks! I spent some time today pricing kits. Also looking at some 3M products that I can access at cost per sheet.

Radiohead
09-27-2013, 04:54 PM
Oh yeah, I remember now that you installed a pretty nice system a while back.

Radiohead's speakers are 6.5" components which along with an adapter plate will be a breeze to install with no cutting. I would really Dynamat the hell out of those plates and the speaker areas of the doors though.

I agree about the wiring and assume he knows that. Wouldn't make sense to buy the best audio components out there and then run it through old, 22ga wire.

Wiring is on the shopping list!

tsingson
09-27-2013, 06:26 PM
That JL amp kicks ass. I had that one when it first came out and the technology used with it is incredible. I will be using the JL amps again when I setup my Expedition and NB properly.

Agent☣Orange
09-27-2013, 06:45 PM
I like JL, Rockford Fosgate and Alpine amps. My current one is the Alpine PDX-F6 (150W RMS x4). It's so damn nice and clean, it was in my Miata, then my 370Z and then back out again to go into the Vette.

Pete, I say Dynamat as a verb nowadays but I mean anything like FatMat, Rattletrap and so on. You did a hell of a good job on your tub recently but I forgot what you used.

Radiohead
11-03-2013, 04:19 AM
98699870Check this stuff out! It's manufactured by 3M. Part number 08840. It is by far the coolest material I've seen for sound deadening. It's self adhesive an measures 19" X 19". It's definitely their proprietary version of mass loaded vinyls trunk. . It's also very pliable which should make for easy installs even in areas that have lots of curved surfaces. I'll be applying In and on the doors and the trunk area.

Agent☣Orange
11-03-2013, 06:45 AM
Did you buy some? How much?

Phatmiata
11-08-2013, 07:32 PM
Hey Pete, I am pretty sure I can order that stuff since we are a 3M dealer, ill have to get in touch with the 3M rep. Did you buy it locally or online?

Radiohead
11-11-2013, 05:54 PM
Hey Pete, I am pretty sure I can order that stuff since we are a 3M dealer, ill have to get in touch with the 3M rep. Did you buy it locally or online?

Hey Randy! I have a friend who works for Fleet products. He bought the box for me as a gift!

Radiohead
11-11-2013, 05:55 PM
Did you buy some? How much?

Amazon sells the individual sheets at $13 a piece.

kung fu jesus
11-12-2013, 08:09 AM
How does it compare to other deadeners, like fat mat? No asphalt in it, right?

Radiohead
12-11-2013, 12:27 AM
How does it compare to other deadeners, like fat mat? No asphalt in it, right?

No asphalt. It's a 3M product and unique in construction. I would say that you really can't compare this to say a dynamat. These are two different animals. This stuff to me, is twice the thickness, pliable and can be stretched out a little with a heat gun. Downside is cost. It's expensive! I'm only using it in the doors for that reason.

Radiohead
12-11-2013, 12:46 AM
1028810289Have not posted for awhile, life as gotten a little more complex theses days. Work continues on the stereo install. Purchased new speaker wires and an amp wiring kit. Everything I ordered was OFC tinned copper in a super twist configuration for less EMI interference.
Doors, inside door skins all soundproofed and wires have all been pulled thru. The crossovers sit in the door skin and are Velcro mounted for easy removal and they also cushion the crossover from excessive shock.
I still have not decided where to mount the amp. The JL/300/4 takes up some room! Any suggestions? Right now I have everything run to the trunk. I'd like to mount it vertically so I get good heat dissipation from the sinks.
Just received my wiring harness adaptor for the HU. that's next on the list!

kung fu jesus
12-11-2013, 11:52 AM
Noice!

Good work in these installs is all about the prep and details! I like what I see!

Radiohead
12-18-2013, 01:01 AM
Work continues! Albeit at a slower pace. After a bit of consideration. Decided to mount the amp behind the passenger seat. The size of the amp had a lot to do with the location. Gonna lose a little leg room and the seat won't recline all the way back but, I tried it and its ok. Besides, I'm usually solo for the most part anyway lol. Next up is reinstalling the dash. HU is mounted and wired in. Just have to connect the RCA's and the antenna lead. Shooting for sound trial by this coming weekend!10309103101031110312

Agent☣Orange
12-18-2013, 07:34 AM
Can't wait to see/hear this in person!

tsingson
12-18-2013, 07:50 AM
Man, I miss my JL amps. The slash series to me are one of the best out there.

kung fu jesus
12-18-2013, 09:38 AM
I have speaker wire, 12 or 14 ga if you want to run it to the fronts.

Radiohead
12-21-2013, 08:27 AM
Hey guys,
Looking for a little help today with some electrical issues. Stereo install went well. When I reinstalled the dash it came right on with no issues(BTW IT ROCKS!) but, the power mirrors don't work, the climate controls (fan) will work with no key in the ignition, turn signals don't work ( 4-ways do)
WTF????? I disconnected the radio harness and no changes. I'm guessing its got be a connector or something in the dash harnesses causing the problems.
I live near Raymond James stadium and my number is 813-528-1666. Call or text if you can come out. That car is under the carport in the shade,I have plenty of tools and a multimeter( no expertise!) and I'll rustle up some lunch for those that can make it over.

Any help is appreciated!
Thnx,
Pete

kung fu jesus
12-21-2013, 08:41 AM
Just to be clear...did you alter, cut or modify any of the stock harness in any way?

Agent☣Orange
12-21-2013, 08:51 AM
I'm guessing the mirrors don't work because you haven't plugged in the wiring or at least not enough to "click" into place. As for the fan and turn signals, did you run any new wiring? Because they're getting power when they shouldn't. The hazard and turn lights run off the same flash module so if the hazards work but the turns don't, the module is good but the wiring is off like perhaps the turn-signal stalk on the steering column. Sorry, not much help but I'm trying to think it through.

Radiohead
12-21-2013, 10:46 AM
Just to be clear...did you alter, cut or modify any of the stock harness in any way?

No modifications made to any harnesses. Everything electrical was plug amd play. I even went back and completely disconnected the radio. No change. I forgot to mention that the engine is not in the car at this moment. Does that have any possible bearing?

Radiohead
12-21-2013, 10:58 AM
I'm guessing the mirrors don't work because you haven't plugged in the wiring or at least not enough to "click" into place. As for the fan and turn signals, did you run any new wiring? Because they're getting power when they shouldn't. The hazard and turn lights run off the same flash module so if the hazards work but the turns don't, the module is good but the wiring is off like perhaps the turn-signal stalk on the steering column. Sorry, not much help but I'm trying to think it through.

I've gone back and checked all the connectors to insure everything is clicked in place. The only new wiring came from the amp mounted behind the passenger seat. It goes directly to the battery for positive and is grounded to the chassis. Is it possible to have a connector plugged in the wrong place? I don't see how.........BTW the engine is currently not in the car.

kung fu jesus
12-21-2013, 11:55 AM
Uhhh...hmm.