View Full Version : Road Star
I picked up this 1990 (built 4/89) a little over 2 years ago. It was beat; half an exhaust valve was missing, dented right rear quarter, bumpers cracked, half the original Classic Red was faded, and the list goes on. I bought it anyway, my 4th NA. I figured it deserved a second chance and a makeover considering it was one of the first 350 Miatas ever built.
It's been a slow process having only a few hours a week to work on it and I try to do as much as possible myself. So I learned paint and bodywork on it. It doesn't look great, but considering it was my first go I'll take it. I'll probably redo it with everything I learned in a little while. For now I just want to drive it for a bit and then move on to the next stage, power!
I'll try to update with the few build pics I have when I can, but for now here's a little teaser. I still have some things to finish; the interior is not done although it's going to be mostly stripped, a few details on the front end need to be buttoned up, the glass and moldings need to be done, etc. As it sits now:
1990 NA, Signal Orange/Satin Black
SSR Star Sharks 14x7 -6, 14x8 -19 (yes 4x100), Nitto NT01 205/55/14, Kics R40 Neo lugs
Tuckin 99 N2 flares, GV tail lights, M2-1028 mirrors, GV front lip, Ratsback rear lip, Planet Miata feed style sides
Advance Design double adjustable coilovers, 450/300 springs, RB sway bars, TC Design weld in roll bar
Choice of Recaro from RS Limited, SP-A Racer, or SP-G
Plus lots of other stuff laying around that need to be installed or sold.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q0G1N2U34-I/TwiYjJrltvI/AAAAAAAAALU/hqByQasUi88/s800/IMG_20120106_154609.jpg
As you can see it was getting dark, so I didn't have a chance to get any good pics. I'll get some better ones later this week.
I'm loving everything about this so far! Definitely my favorite wheels on NA's. Keep it up!
Caoboy
01-08-2012, 06:29 PM
What the hell how come I have never seen this car before.
etikoner
01-08-2012, 07:03 PM
Wow. This thing looks mean...
in for more.
What the hell how come I have never seen this car before.
No one has. This is the first sneak peak since I finally got the wheels on on Friday. MR exclusive! (For now :) )
Caoboy
01-08-2012, 11:02 PM
I am in San Jose too. I would love to see it in person.
For sure, once I get a few more things done I'll be out and about.
oldcafe
01-09-2012, 02:55 PM
Wow another Star sharker !!!
very cool car mate
AntiochOG
01-09-2012, 03:16 PM
Sick car! Post more pictures when you can!
HellaRareYellow
01-09-2012, 03:26 PM
More pix or ban! Lol
friday
01-09-2012, 04:40 PM
Nice looking car, post more info!
iamdallas
01-09-2012, 04:49 PM
What everyone else said - MORE!!!!!!!
I haven't had a chance to do anything again this week :chargrined: So no updates. I was looking for some build pics while at work and can't seem to find that many, I thought I took a lot more.
This is the only pic I could find of what it looked like when I bought it. Doesn't show much, but just imagine this condition and care over the rest of it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m9wRn2ia1_k/TxCGfGiJWKI/AAAAAAAAAN8/yOu7yI9OQBY/s640/336.jpg
So I decided I would use this chassis for my N2 flares since it needed body work anyway. Here's a pic of how not to cut your fenders. I cut them too high so I had to weld in a patch when I folded and welded it closed. The pic is pretty bad but that whole quarter is dinged up, worst back by the light.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V3wW3Xdid7A/TxCJRb0yxyI/AAAAAAAAAPE/pGj0RkkKKFo/s640/0814091601.jpg
After a few months of a dreadfully slow pace, there was some primer on the body. The hood was still bare.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gO0CuJpxG8g/TxCEkaqokEI/AAAAAAAAANA/wsXXxLC-5gI/s640/2010-06-28%25252010.20.45.jpg
Fast forward what seems to be like another year and here we are. I only had a couple minutes to snap a few more pics as it sits today.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v9xqhSfAFEA/TxCHFn8z0nI/AAAAAAAAAOY/toRVXP0N6No/s800/IMG_7366.JPG
I managed to lose some TSI's while moving, as well as the side bumper lights. Those are at the top of the to do list. Along with dusting it off. :(
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SIMW9opnIts/TxCHFRd5TvI/AAAAAAAAAOU/6DmVVhD_XTA/s800/IMG_7394.JPG
I have it dumped as low as my coilovers will go, the pinch weld is about 3". I will be raising it to get some suspension travel, but I needed to check all the clearances. Doesn't look bad for pics either.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A8BldPzag7o/TxCHLZ8h0XI/AAAAAAAAAOk/JbeChGRQiLc/s800/IMG_7402.JPG
Along with the minor exterior things I need to finish up, I also need to do most of the interior. I'm going to try out a semi-stripped interior, no carpet or console. I'm going to keep the dash and make some door panels. Right now I have a Momo Rookie seat in, but I need to bolt in my Recaro RS Ltd and also make some mounts for the SP-A Racer I have. I also need to put in my harness because the TC Design roll bar that I have welded in doesn't allow for the use of stock belts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vhTjpfRDruU/TH14YIQN02I/AAAAAAAAAA0/A4mDnuANdRk/s640/recaro%252520rs%252520ltd%252520front.jpg
I also need to cut a panel to mount my Stack ST8130. Getting it wired up shouldn't be difficult. I only need to figure out how to mount to wheel speed sensor.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNBtrk38KGQ/TxB8251cNZI/AAAAAAAAAME/z7ESVN945_4/s640/IMG_20120113_091949.jpg
Hopefully I'll get some of it accomplished next week.
friday
01-13-2012, 05:17 PM
That quite a rare seat, even more so stateside. Then I saw the gauge, fancy shit.
Caoboy
01-13-2012, 07:36 PM
Holy shit.
ChrisJuliano
01-13-2012, 07:40 PM
Wow I love it! Nice work
adamvanxxx
01-13-2012, 07:56 PM
Do you have any more pictures of the N2 flare process?
I am really digging this thing nice car.
R2Limited
01-13-2012, 08:43 PM
Needs matte black rocker stripes...now!
Benbrg
01-13-2012, 09:00 PM
Winning!
smaeda
01-13-2012, 09:10 PM
Daaaangg!
wannafbody
01-13-2012, 09:41 PM
Are the wheels orange or red-hard to tell for sure from pics?
The wheels are red. I don't have the heart to paint them since they're all original and pretty much one of a very, very few of a kind. Honestly they don't fit into my long term plans (brake size) so I'm leaving as is.
Vegard
03-15-2012, 12:28 PM
I saw your name in a different post, and low and behold I find you've got it painted, always checked in on you on cr (stalking).
Pretty damn cool I must say! perhaps even better with smaller flares, or as my mind is telling me, new barrels (possible?) 14x9 or 10" ish and 225/50-14 :P
Thanks. 14x9 would be nice but I'm eventually going to have to go to 15x9/10 to fit my radial mount Wilwoods. With the new 245/40/15's coming out soon it'll give me the most tire available also.
Been really busy for updates, not getting much done. Working on the interior for a bit. Making a carbon panel to mount the Stack.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-opqrGDx_2fo/T2yv3XT68EI/AAAAAAAAAzo/dt6EfNQwwt4/s640/IMG_20120315_154740.jpg
Got the RS-Limited Recaro mounted (easy enough since it's on stock rails) and harness on. The foam in this seat is crazy comfortaable.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mip3DrkGmVw/T2ypstb2vEI/AAAAAAAAAyo/esLymk3PoIY/s800/IMG_20120322_160935.jpg
Since I've got the carbon fiber and supplies out of the closet, hopefully I'll be able to make some door panels in the next couple of weeks and wire up the Stack.
moerdogg
03-23-2012, 01:54 PM
Wow, awesome! Nice that you brought it back from the dead.
revlimiter
03-23-2012, 02:59 PM
OMG you have a build thread!!! I managed to not see till now.
SlowMiata
03-23-2012, 06:08 PM
Man I bet you turn some heads in that car
Looks so great, and the fact you started with a mess of a miata just makes it all that much better.
atlnb
03-23-2012, 10:12 PM
This is like showing tits without the nipples... Such a TEASE!!!
Monthly update :( Fabbed a cf panel and mounted a Stack ST8130 with some warning and signal lights. Lights are for high beams, battery, check engine and e brake. The top of the tach and signal indicators line up just inside my 350mm wheel.
Of course I haven't had time a wire if all up yet :| I might actually get some real time to work on everything next month, seriously.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5KzkOCFWV9I/T4331LOzvVI/AAAAAAAAA6E/uP6IFNTk60s/s800/2012-04-17_15-55-15_824.jpg
artcentermiata
04-18-2012, 05:06 PM
holy sex... holy god... that cluster is amazing!
Caoboy
04-19-2012, 04:09 PM
*f'k*f'k*f'k*f'k*f'k I still want to see this car. I'm in San jose too!
psulja
04-19-2012, 04:43 PM
Wow! Great looking build! Love the cluster!
friday
04-20-2012, 12:25 PM
That gauge cluster is for serious
No monthly update, yet. Had to get a smog and stopped to take a couple quick pics of half way decent quality. Didn't really have time to worry about lighting, composition and all that good stuff.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oeZbFaRTSGs/T7v186p2OAI/AAAAAAAAA7s/Yd3gtABlnLY/s800/IMG_8594.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-miQrMUmtBDY/T7v16OAsBNI/AAAAAAAAA7k/aOnYoezyaDE/s800/IMG_8628.JPG
Some real work to start next week, update to follow.
revlimiter
05-24-2012, 09:03 AM
I love that color. The flares. The black top. The everything. Everything complements the Sharks. Love it.
I found a few pics of just after I started I that might as well throw in.
One of the first things I did was strip the carpet out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0XUWsRtLukM/T2FK26XmtoI/AAAAAAAAAVI/5Gt0_i-00NU/s800/IMG_0015.JPG
Then I took the soft top out and went over to TC Design and had a roll bar welded in. They are very well known in NorCal for their Spec cages. This is essentially the back half of that. I didn't want to go full cage since it's still a street car. Since I was going to paint it body color, it was hit with etching primer first.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nwbmg92epJc/T2FKZtsDtjI/AAAAAAAAATY/MeXS1Eo4ZFY/s800/rollbar3.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sO344v1lAeM/T2FKWE_EdcI/AAAAAAAAATQ/CouKl6wW5C8/s800/rollbar2.JPG
Then I borrowed the hard top from my Silverstone since it needed paint also and Red was soft top-less.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Zj4SIJ6OXQs/T2FKvJlA8PI/AAAAAAAAAUk/CWl_uxNqb4k/s800/IMG_0001.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8P0A-6WZPQw/T2FKu0jVIYI/AAAAAAAAA-o/uAtUE1xwOIk/s800/IMG_0004.JPG
Then it was time to start cutting some metal.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QQuY8cUcK8g/T2FNgWdWR_I/AAAAAAAAAYE/qLhaHjkCCAs/s800/flares%2520install%25202.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z-SeO-eI4uE/T2FNoEd9jAI/AAAAAAAAAYs/n53ofgIbJ_o/s800/flares%2520install%25206.JPG
And test fit the Tuckin99 N2 flares.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ENZ0OUwv5Mw/T2FNqULszdI/AAAAAAAAAZE/yvqrM-2M7ps/s800/flares%2520install%25209.JPG
And the Star Sharks. You can see all the paint oxidation and dings.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-66nEf-8_bEY/T2FNstZmL2I/AAAAAAAAAZM/ehV-dGZZsE4/s800/flares%2520mockup%25201%2520c%2520sm.jpg
Then it was time to get into the paint. I don't have many pics of the process. It was long and slow. Fast forward to now.
So up until now I've been doing mostly body work. There haven't been any pics of the engine because there's nothing to see, well just a stock BP. When I first bought this one the plan was to take care of the body since it was so bad off and then probably swap in my old (really old) turbo kit. I already swapped in my 1.8 since the stock motor was toast. My other NA that donated the motor and turbo would then get some needed attention. I found I barely had time to work on 1 let alone 2 so I sold my Silverstone :cry2: While languishing away at learning body work I decided to sell the turbo and try something different. I was going to do a high CR, ITB 1.9l. After another year passes by, I thought that since I only have 1 NA I might as well go all out on the motor too.
While the body and interior are not completely done, I'm bored with working on it. It's good enough for now. I want to turn some wrenches again. So it's time to get down to business. As the guys at Brightning would say ...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Zkobbdj6xM/T8qm_5_tlgI/AAAAAAAAA90/nmCgq22VNHU/s400/my%2520mazida.jpg (serious business)
Up it goes
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Cmt2a1yeTk4/T8qnfSmlC9I/AAAAAAAAA-E/1auOYbgFapI/s800/2012-05-30_10-49-05_874.jpg
Out it comes
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dl0YlAFgqKY/T8ZpaFEAzJI/AAAAAAAAA80/qpTOJXocYQM/s800/2012-05-30_11-00-33_250.jpg
What most of the front half of a Miata looks like spread over a garage floor
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0ZDFDTz8Q48/T8z4OgBTEkI/AAAAAAAAA_E/d-nvf0ur71E/s800/2012-06-03_14-07-01_519.jpg
And that's where I'm up to now, the front is pretty much stripped out. I'm going to try to dedicate some more time so this won't take 5 years, but that's about all for this week.
friday
06-04-2012, 03:07 PM
Big motor time?
Found a few spare minutes to finish cleaning out the front half.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ADz0uy88I2s/T89NLjHNBuI/AAAAAAAABBQ/pn3uf_6sdgc/s800/2012-06-05_14-07-36_941.jpg
I never painted the engine bay because I knew I'd be pulling the engine eventually. Now it needs a good pressure wash to get ready for prep. I've got a few other things to do before more painting.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uhGPUjru9T0/T89NG0B2y-I/AAAAAAAABBI/kwOYUpq6wGY/s1024/2012-06-05_14-04-31_455.jpg
Did some cleaning up inside
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3g-kvH7ehLw/T89NOXgIqRI/AAAAAAAABBY/TW-X3ob2rcc/s640/2012-06-05_14-22-14_479.jpg
Spider webs? No, seam sealer. Messy stuff when you use a wire wheel to strip it out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qIoBzuGT0aY/T9jLf_Q_neI/AAAAAAAABCE/E5fhsdO-Zio/s640/2012-06-05_14-53-56_607.jpg
I am in love with the garage vary tail lights...
Phatmiata
06-13-2012, 11:34 PM
loving this one!! im happy to finally see you mounted those Star Sharks, you have had them forever! Are these the same flares from the original AR group buy back in 2005ish? LOL
If so you are way ahead of me now that I switched Miatas. The car looks amazing!! Make sure to enter it in the lottery this month!!
Thanks Randy, my build has definately been a long time coming. I can't wait to see your Nopro come together.
Tried to do some work today, tried being the operative word. Was going to mod the trans tunnel so I swapped the wire wheel on the angle grinder for a cut-off. Switch it on and nothing, it's dead. Ok, I'll just use my air metal saw which makes cleaner cuts anyway, plus no sparks bouncing off me. That was going ok until my compressor started overheating and shutting down :roll: so now it was really slow going waiting for it to kick back on. While waiting I decided to use my Dremel to make a small plunge cut. Get one done, then move to the other side. Switch it on and you guessed it, no dice. Wtf 2 cutting tools dead in 1 day :? But wait, that's not all... go back to the metal saw after the compressor's full and hwar a hiss. Track it down and there's a blister and leak in the hose :angry:
That was time to call it quits, didn't want to push my luck anymore. Guess i know what I'm getting for Father's Day now.
terranwelder
06-14-2012, 07:20 PM
Love the wheels! Clean car
I've been waiting for some parts and getting a couple little things done. I decided to depower my steering rack in the mean time. And then ...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--eyyWc48GYw/T_maSsx7kgI/AAAAAAAABDc/b3jffl7Gqm8/s640/2012-07-07_17-21-12_131.jpg
That doesn't look right :wtf: It's bent so much i can't even pull it out. I hardly drove it since buying it, I guess I'm lucky I didn't. No other damage anywhere in the area so I can't even guess how it happened. Time to wait for another part :/ but i do have time though, not going to be working on the car for the rest of the month.
Sent an email to Project G Sunday morning and got a reply Sunday night. Sent a paypal early Monday and it was shipped Monday afternoon and in my hands on Wednesday :burnout: Oh, and they had the best price by far. Highly recommended!
A couple surprises out of the box and it's even nice and clean :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BnJQXvwOTig/UAB7oTidWAI/AAAAAAAABD8/iWXvsfid0Do/s800/2012-07-12_20-11-22_710.jpg
Much better looking.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gogUeg3FPMQ/UAB7tfFlKsI/AAAAAAAABEE/OflQKUdCI_U/s800/2012-07-12_20-05-07_665.jpg
Since it arrived so quickly I had a chance to finish the depower. Exploded view.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C0CyBNaLZto/UAB7xekEUlI/AAAAAAAABEM/TM0VC4SqoQc/s800/2012-07-13_10-55-11_456.jpg
A couple notes beyond the basic FM instructions. The locking washers that hold the tie rods on are $8 each. It might be possible to remove them without destroying them. If not, it's $8/side. Also the big locking nut is like 1 5/8" so make sure you have a big enough wrench before you start. Mine only went to 1 1/2". Other than that it's very straightforward.
Nice sealess shaft.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QmacwaBFOMc/UAB8Fjr5sSI/AAAAAAAABEU/BMy6kO9QBsk/s1024/2012-07-13_11-35-46_667.jpg
Just waiting for the plugs now.
Demon I Am
07-13-2012, 04:00 PM
beautiful!
Driftdevil
07-13-2012, 04:44 PM
Very nice ride. If you don't mind me asking, what is your wheel setup size/offset wise? Also what size spacers if any are you running?
Thanks. Specs are all listed in post #1, 14x7 -6 and 14x8 -19, 205/55/14 Nt01.
Driftdevil
07-15-2012, 08:58 AM
Oops! Sorry I must have gotten so wrapped up in the pics that I missed that, lol!
It's been a little longer of a break than I had hoped but that tends to happen. Plus there was a mix up of some parts ordered. While waiting for that to be worked out I decided to work on the new fuel system.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kL-Opq_4fsE/UDAAD7yTwXI/AAAAAAAABE0/LFWlZwsEp38/s800/upload_1000005EDFC1B3_2012.08.18%252C20%253A50%253 A18%252C424_F05DB6A9
I'm just about finished, only need to do the ends when everything is in place.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-inTyyMl58VM/UEUuhUUpWGI/AAAAAAAABFE/R8rt8aiVN-E/s800/upload_1000005EDFC1B3_2012.09.03%252C22%253A26%253 A07%252C708_5C8C0570
I was getting ready to install the tranny and another setback, 9 stitches in my thumb :fp: Don't fight with a utility knife, you'll lose. Dont be lazy and use the proper tool.
Next update when I get off the DL, hopefully a couple weeks.
revlimiter
09-03-2012, 08:11 PM
Love it! Sorry to hear about your thumb. I put a nice 1" gash in my pointer finger when installing my radio last weekend. Stupid mounting strap is stupid sharp. My finger is held together with superglue. :)
etikoner
09-03-2012, 08:46 PM
Seen pics of this car floating around. That Stack Cluster looks really awesome!
Will keep my eye on this one
AHHthatsJDMyo
09-03-2012, 09:51 PM
Great build! love seeing people learn as they go and built cars themselves. also god those stack clusters are nice!!
Thumb is good enough to grab stuff, so it's back to work, a little. Got the tranny mount in that I sliced up my thumb on and the frame rail braces. Still don't have full range of motion, so it's slow going.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SsIBEn8dL8E/UFsq4vIOXYI/AAAAAAAABGE/f36iN0e7I9I/s1024/2012-09-18_12-44-57_438.jpg
I really need to do a little cleaning, but I'm running so far behind that I'm trying to be as productive as possible. Next week I need to mount my new radiator setup. Looking for some fans too, that dont cost $200+.
Caoboy
09-20-2012, 10:12 AM
I still want to see this machine.
Hit me up sometime if you ever want help wrenching on it.
Thanks for the offer! There's not much to see right now but maybe during final assembly in a little while. :8):
Phatmiata
09-21-2012, 10:18 AM
glad to here you are healing up! keep us updated! Im still way behind you in my build.......... ugh
Not a whole lot this week, just got the radiator positioned under the core support and halfway mounted it. I removed the stock bottom mounts and flipped the lower condenser mounts around. I still need to fab the bracket from those lower mounts to the rad. I also need to put some kind of isolator on the top mounts so they are not too rigid.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H5uEqN2t9b0/UGXEHUzwqxI/AAAAAAAABH4/e5FTFY0NShk/s1024/2012-09-24_13-02-06_637.jpg
tsingson
09-28-2012, 11:18 AM
Looking bad ass so far!
SpeedWorks
09-28-2012, 09:07 PM
really nice roadster and the build thread looks great too
Just a couple things this week. Finished the radiator mounting; I decided to use pieces from the stock mounts and emulate that style. I also installed the Mazda Comp heavy duty sway bar brackets and started planning out how I'm going to mount my oil filter and cooler and the routing of the lines.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_kpMwpI87ig/UG7zUVCLmXI/AAAAAAAABIQ/RvyWdeILk28/s1024/2012-10-03_10-24-49_772.jpg
I wanted to finish my fuel system but ended up redoing the new line I made. I wasn't happy with the area around the fuel filter so I decided to redo it and only was able to replace what I already had, so no net progress. I was able to install a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and should be able to finish it all up my next work day. After all the fluids get taken care of it's on to electrical.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q5z2aSeNpbA/UG7zX_QOFsI/AAAAAAAABIY/vhBkHbTGEvA/s1024/2012-10-03_12-14-13_15.jpg
mrpham
10-06-2012, 11:44 PM
I like where you've mounted the oil filter, awesome spot and I'm going to steal your idea :D
Not a whole lot going on lately. I did get the fuel line finalized and the oil lines made. Just need to make a bracket for the filter mount, decided to mount it a little different than pictured. Now I'm starring at tons of wires and diagrams trying to get the wiring done and also remove what I don't need anymore like srs, ps and AC. :fp:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OMGn5JxNpZE/UJrTdewYqeI/AAAAAAAABKo/719mmOCBUn4/s800/2012-11-02_10-11-27_552.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lvu8xOlKAk4/UJrT6LzywTI/AAAAAAAABKw/WCB2-MO0QcE/s800/2012-11-02_10-12-57_239.jpg
I'm also trying to find some hoses for the new radiator setup. That's pretty slow going too clicking through hundreds of pics of hoses, but I think I'll get to order all that shortly.
A very good day, it's ALIVE! :slayer: I decided not to do the full harness thinning and to just hook it up so: #1 I made sure the engine runs like it should and #2 made sure I didn't screw up the harness causing headaches later. There's wires laying all over right now, I just spliced what I needed so I still need to clean it all up when I do the final install. It's still not even a roller, no suspension or even rear end. I'm still wating for the axles/driveshaft/etc. For now I know it runs so I can move on to the rear when those parts get in and also cleaning it all up.
http://youtu.be/zcGuwBJM_zU
The mic my phone apparently isnt very good, but the open exhaust manifolds were so loud it knocked over my phone when I tried to prop it up to record, so I had to hold it :8): This is actually the second run.
No one really asked previously what the hell I was doing, but it's an 05 Corvette LS2 with V8R pieces.
SM16RMSM
12-05-2012, 08:38 PM
oh, I am in love. I been wanting to due a LS swap since I bought my first NA.
maharaj
12-05-2012, 09:34 PM
Looks good...then the 'fun' part comes when trying to tuck away the wires neatly.
Yeah, right now it's a disaster of wires. I just threw everything in and spliced what i needed. Cleaning it all up will be lots of fun especially considering how tight it all is.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u4-jKY7TGPY/UMFqPTH5PNI/AAAAAAAABO8/CxOUJOs_v9I/s1024/%255BUNSET%255D
Everything has been pulled out again, getting the engine bay ready for welding and paint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iHeR41yPh04/UMueDhtlNCI/AAAAAAAABRA/62SKgd3FYIM/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
The old and new all tucked away.
I'll try to document the swap process a little better during the final install.
Heyitsryan
12-18-2012, 01:33 PM
Absolutely sick build, I can't wait for some more updates.
Merry xmas to me, a new Nardi 350 deep corn suede from the wife :D
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z8HfOFNoOzc/UN_hlq8yyYI/AAAAAAAABSE/bV_7bNKeWO4/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
I got the engine bay prepped to weld. A tip for anyone doing their swap, clean all the metal prior to reshaping it. After beating it all up widening it it's much more work now that it's not smooth anymore. Then folding it over itself it, it's hard to clean the edge.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FwB8qy1cxO8/UN7iOeqIwMI/AAAAAAAABRo/HDhTLXcAPq0/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yM9kY9ymwA8/UN7iPlGWdfI/AAAAAAAABRw/mgEyJw_FE5o/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
Not very pretty, but I'll clean it up a bit after welding and prior to paint.
So updates will probably slow down again. I had a goal of finishing by the end of the year but now that it's been missed I'm going to be pretty busy out of the garage again.
I got everything mostly welded up, just need a bit more work on the interior trans tunnel braces. So I need to put on some seam sealer and do a final prep for paint.
In the meantime, I got the drivetrain parts in. After a mixup in shipping, my V8R stage 2 kit arrived. It's for my Getrag differential out of a 08 STS-V with 3.23 ratio and limited slip.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t2d9OhK0law/UPb888K3BRI/AAAAAAAABSo/Zwl7jYb2RhI/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
Need to get that set up after paint. It'll probably take a month to get these next 2 things done :fp:
The engine bay is all done now. Painted the cowl satin black to match the windshield frame and hardtop and put some new undercoating on the tunnel. I also touched up the paint inside that I had to strip off for widening and welding. Should be done with paint now :D
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8Jv4kpkXUqc/UR1XIeY-M1I/AAAAAAAABUs/WsCEipLG2BY/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
On to setting up the rear end.
Demon I Am
02-14-2013, 05:05 PM
wowza, looks great!
adamvanxxx
02-19-2013, 04:18 AM
So many skipped steps, need more documentation.
Setting up the Getrag diff is pretty straightforward. Bolt on the V8R adapter, bolt that onto the stock mounting points and then set the new front mounting bracket. Level out the subframe all around the then push down the front of the diff until you get the pinion angle to 1.5 degrees up so it will match the angle the trans output was designed to sit at. Clamp the new tabs, tack them, double check the measurement and then remove the diff so it can be welded up. I don't trust my welding for something this critical so I'm having someone take care of that for me later in the week.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ppyg1lxUH60/UTcCc6ZhWzI/AAAAAAAABVM/yb_iYSStq5s/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
So with that waiting to be finished I had a moment to start replacing the rear hubs and bearings.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A5wXcfRBt04/UTcDmFhWEtI/AAAAAAAABVg/uVhNXlFzEWI/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
Press or slide hammer out the hub and then remove the snap ring in front.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EYOrCZ8KASA/UTcDnU1_wlI/AAAAAAAABVo/3RE8oXoLlXg/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
Press out the bearing with your favorite large socket whilst mangling the dust shields. Oh well, they're not very useful anyway. Plus these won't fit big brakes, off they will come.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OgHc5tKqNQU/UTcDoTa_cZI/AAAAAAAABVw/ADm8Z3GsckU/s800/%255BUNSET%255D
All disassembled and ready for new billet hubs, which I of course didn't have time to install. I forgot to freeze the new bearings and hubs to help them go in anyway.
tsingson
03-06-2013, 09:42 AM
Still looking good man! And your avatar always reminds me of pringles.
After an almost 4 month hiatus I finally found a couple hours to sneak into the garage. The rear uprights are assembled with the nice 1/2" billet hubs and ARP studs, so hopefully no failures in my future.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7335/9155596003_c5acd01930_b.jpg
If you've seen other V8R builds before using the Getrag diff you may have noticed mine looked slightly different. I was looking for one of the newest one possible because of the issues with the early ones blowing up and I found this one from an 08 STS-V. I noticed the pinion flange looked different before I bought it but I found some pics of the CTS-V diff with the same flange and knew that some people were using the ctsv so I went ahead and bought it. Of course it doesn't fit. It appears that this diff doesn't use the adapter to the driveshaft that the others use and V8R recently did away with their machined adapter and changed the driveshaft to bolt directly to the diff. The old style could have possibly worked and bolted right up to my diff but I was able to find a flange kit on eBay for cheap so I could just keep my new style driveshaft.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7333/9157910072_5c93055e75_b.jpg
Difference between the flanges
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/9157909058_4d884e8ebe_b.jpg
Use a slide hammer to get the old flange off.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/9155684359_ff10b59015_b.jpg
New flange and nut on and torqued to 250 lb/ft.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/9157907130_9ed9d5f82b_b.jpg
atank
06-28-2013, 05:30 AM
Can't wait to see a video of it on the road!!
Hyper
06-28-2013, 10:19 AM
You need a murakami trunk lid. the car will look crazy
Phatmiata
06-28-2013, 10:39 AM
What I imagine your Miata to look like in the future.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/9158190435_37362c7b1c_b.jpg
A bit of progress this week, I got the brake and fuel lines plumbed. As I showed long ago, I decided to make a new hard line 3/8 fuel line instead of braided like most use. A couple reasons, braided gets expensive fast and it still can have issues with vapors. So I took a little time with a bender and a measuring tape and made a new one.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oSXomq-oOyU/UesyDMFpYWI/AAAAAAAABcw/4qoe1QMEW2A/s800/IMG_20130719_135607_474.jpg
Using a Mastercool 71200 hydraulic flaring tool I put nice factory style push connect ends on the line. This does away with need for a variety of adapters needed with SS.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qF3BtjIYnrs/UesyEjq9g4I/AAAAAAAABc4/OrlS2Y-Q9Ks/s800/IMG_20130719_135859_285.jpg
I'm using the Wix 33737 Corvette style FPR/filter that is common for LSx swaps. However most mount it where the factory filter is and I decided to place it on top of the tank. Using a couple Dorman adapters to go from the push connect supply and return to rubber hose to the tank and then the new hard line going directly in for the feed.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GMVTOi9AnGY/UHd4RrJMLjI/AAAAAAAABJI/ga1-KlIwEuI/s800/2012-10-11_13-32-30_773.jpg
The factory brake, fuel and evap lines are mounted on clips that attach to the frame rails. The V8R rail braces cover most of those holes. So I flattened them, enlarged the mounting hole to 7/16" and attached them to the brace bolts. Since the return and evap lines are gone there's room to jam the new 3/8 line into the 5/16" clip. It makes for a nice, tight fit which is good since it's upside down now.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-18v1cDy9UHc/UesyrpupyKI/AAAAAAAABdI/Ld06bUKR4_c/s800/IMG_20130719_153154_372.jpg
Up front I need to make some final tweaks and clips when the motor goes in but it's pretty close now. The brake lines on the passenger side have been bent into the new corner cut out along the firewall for clearance also.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZnU4ZOrsmXE/UesyuXzeuZI/AAAAAAAABdQ/iGwoK60HZek/s800/IMG_20130719_153409_789.jpg
To connect the new fuel line to the ls2 fuel rail I'm using a Russell SS braided hose for the GTO, pn 651121. It fits like the stock rubber one and is cheaper. No adapters necessary since both sides are push connect.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2PsTQ-UepC8/Uex7OhbX3NI/AAAAAAAABds/oGTzV3wGCAA/s640/RUS-651121_xl.jpg
After getting all that done I had a few more minutes so I mounted the diff in the rear subframe with the front mount plates now welded in. I put a hose on the breather vent and routed it off to the side since there seems to be an issue with the venting on these Getrag diffs.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ghdII5IKxuA/UesyGw7BhtI/AAAAAAAABdA/6_vY0MiG5TE/s800/IMG_20130719_153042_720.jpg
Then I lifted it all in. I ran out of time to get the axles or suspension in so that's up next, along with putting the engine and trans back in (hopefully for the last time!)
At this point I'm not trying to do a lot of extras, just trying to get back on the road first. One thing that I am doing is ES suspension bushings since the arms are all off. Here's why they say not to use a press.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AnJKF-u0H5I/UfmbHSxvgpI/AAAAAAAABeE/KW-ZYQpBiUo/s800/IMG_20130704_102043_167.jpg
Bent :? It's a little difficult getting everything lined up and supported properly and if you're not paying attention this happens. But it's so convenient :roll: I got a replacement and found that an old 7/8" wrench fits nice and tight between the rear lower inners. Rears are done now, waiting to go back in.
Not much progress after a month, but when is there ever. I started by trying to get the rear all assembled. First was all the control arms with new ES bushings. The rear uppers were very tight, too tight. After fighting for a bit I decided I would have to sand them down a few thou on each side. That worked nicely. The passenger side axle and arms went in smoothly but when I went to the drivers side I couldn't get the knuckle on the upper.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_WGQ_5oRodY/UiAUNJ7Nz3I/AAAAAAAABfA/4PO2lGOy5mU/s800/IMG_20130822_142546_225.jpg
Its 1/2-3/4" off. I went back to the FM instructions and saw that the passenger axle should be about 1/2" longer. I pulled both back out and it appears they are both the same length. I've emailed V8R and am waiting as they look into it.
So onto the engine and trans then. The T56 usually bolts to the bottom of the stock oil pan but that's not possible with a sheet metal oil pan so the bottom of the trans needs to be covered. FM sells a cover for $25 which is a pretty good price but I had a piece of aluminum laying around just the right size so I decided to just make one. Pretty simple.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iQjEh-rx538/UfsZqqFnLeI/AAAAAAAABeU/-_ZAnPYuOdI/s800/IMG_20130801_143042_857.jpg
Next was bolting up the LS7 clutch and flywheel. Man is this thing heavy, reportedly close to 60lbs total. Good thing I have power to spare. One of the first mods after I get it all running is probably going to be an aluminum flywheel which drops about 15 lbs. I torqued down the ARP hardware and then bolted up the T56.
Https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WGPcG6UZer0/UiAUIbWTX6I/AAAAAAAABeo/uBXj9-LjdtQ/s640/IMG_20130827_224438_815.jpg
One last thing before installing everything was to put in a new reverse switch. The GM one sticks straight out and interferes with the trans tunnel. You either can put a dimple in the tunnel to clear the pigtail or you can go with the Ford switch which is lower profile. If you do use the GM don't forget to mod the tunnel before you put it all in, otherwise it'll all be coming back out again. I went with the Ford part.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nS7LSMyw74M/UiAUJ5RiaAI/AAAAAAAABew/VuoFegyLDuo/s800/IMG_20130827_232942_523.jpg
Finally got the engine and transmission back into place :D
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-chTPDFSAOGM/UF4ECpGHcbI/AAAAAAAABHQ/c00WmHuEdmU/s800/2012-09-18_12-46-30_90.jpg
Made a shifter adapter with Mazda threads so I can keep my shift knob. I can easily make another with different threads so I'm not limited to the relatively unique 10x1.25 thread.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eZmPy32LtGk/UiAUOnhkXgI/AAAAAAAABfI/2pfIU9N0dno/s800/IMG_20130829_085639_280.jpg
The engine is back home too, looks much nicer with the bay painted now.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q9_2yZrHwmc/UiAULmMpdGI/AAAAAAAABe4/CCTVFYjNz6Q/s800/IMG_20130829_085528_163.jpg
Hopefully I'll get this axle issue resolved soon and then onto cleaning up the wiring harness.
I'm currently plugging away at the wiring. I've deleted the SRS wires and am thinning out everything related to the stock engine and sensors. It's a pretty painstaking process. In the middle of that I decided I might as well relocate the fuse box inside since the stock location where the wiring harness runs up from the tunnel is very close to my pax exhaust manifold and I've got the brake and fuel lines stuffed in there too.
So I got my pin removal tool and pulled the necessary terminals to free the box from the harness.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VeFBrmW5Y4k/UkqABQ4ee7I/AAAAAAAABfs/C8tiQdZFfIs/s800/IMG_20130919_124548_800.jpg
Then I stuffed the harness through the existing hole in the trans tunnel and reconnected it all before I forgot where all the terminals went. Now I'm working through removing the unnecessary stuff. It's not going to be a complete wire tuck because there's too many connectors for the LS2 but it will look clean.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KAVLDw6QbQA/UkqACm9VCUI/AAAAAAAABfw/RJDZhPVgHOs/s800/IMG_20130929_220543_884.jpg
One piece of accomplishment for the month was getting the pedals mounted. I bolted in the V8R /Wilwood clutch master cylinder and Corvette DBW gas pedal. Although I'm using an 05 GTO harness with my 05 Corvette engine I'm using the Vette pedal since I found one for $40 new compared to $100+ used most people want for the GTO. The GTO is a little smaller and nicer but the Vette fits the bill. They use different connectors but it's an easy swap of the 6 wires. I cut off the bracket holding the stock pedal on and welded on a new bracket that the dbw pedal bolts on to.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0TaqOI-2tFQ/UkqCGyFoWJI/AAAAAAAABf8/KDIv6x-_Q_o/s800/IMG_20130905_130843_773.jpg
Finally, thanks to Garage Star for another box of parts I can't use yet! It's still fun getting new stuff (and sweet MR stickers).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2_3YHolfgeo/Ukp8zKZUSEI/AAAAAAAABfc/nLO9S0Bfit4/s800/IMG_20130927_134802_043.jpg
WASABI
10-01-2013, 05:33 AM
Love the progress so far. Amazing what can be done with theses cars. I look forward to your updates.
Phatmiata
10-01-2013, 07:50 AM
This car is coming along really nicely!!
Are you planning to use an NB gauge cluster with an NA Dash? One of the local guys here (John J) did that and I love how factory it looks.
See page 3, Stack ST8130 dash. Factory? Bah!
Phatmiata
10-01-2013, 12:16 PM
See page 3, Stack ST8130 dash. Factory? Bah!
hahaha I like the factory for the sleeper effect. But seeing as this Miata is orange im guessing you don't want it to be a sleeper? hahaaa
I'm almost done with the wiring.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YXSinBqlMss/Ul8YIorXO2I/AAAAAAAABh8/OfJDKdIAyoI/s800/IMG_20131015_230546_474.jpg
Actually although that doesn't look like it, I'm getting pretty close. The engine bay looks much better.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgRccNQ_txY/Ul8YJ7sUq1I/AAAAAAAABiA/1kbgAsV9-Jg/s800/IMG_20131015_231442_811.jpg
I've got to move the wires that run behind the engine a bit but that's about what it'll look like. The GTO has the PCM (GM speak for ECU) on the drivers side, in the engine bay. I'm putting mine in the factory NA6 location of the pax foot well. To do so I've had to reroute that main harness loom that goes to the PCM to go thru the big grommet on the pass side. Doing that is taking up most of what little space I had behind the intake manifold. That is where some run their heater hoses so I've had to do a heater reroute also. Since I needed to check clearances for a couple other things in that area I decided to take a small break from wiring and tackle that.
The LSx heater hoses exit the water pump on the passenger side. To get to the stock Miata heater core connections on the drivers side there are a few options: just run them over the IM (ugly), behind the IM (no space for mine with the wiring harness back there), get an NB core which is aluminum and weld AN fittings and go full AN hoses (baller!), solder copper fittings and pipe to the NA core and run them behind the heater assembly (probably the best option but I didn't want to bother with soldering copper although I may revisit it), and finally just use rubber hose and clamps to do the same.
There is some concern with hose clamps potentially leaking in the car, but after prepping the heater core I found there already is one from the factory.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uCmtJRX3AHc/UlS06JZ8EVI/AAAAAAAABgY/lsnfOtny8PE/s800/IMG_20131005_150913_315.jpg
As luck would have it, the hose I ordered thinking it was just 5/8" with a 90 bend actually had another bend that almost perfectly replaced that pipe union also. Dayco #80403
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FWfeS2Pg5Cc/UlS05A_O6QI/AAAAAAAABgQ/LKBiEAz5M24/s800/IMG_20131007_215033_100.jpg
So at this point I've added 1 extra hose clamp, not too bad. After the hoses run behind the heater I want them to go thru the firewall there the stock AC lines went.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kPKrdLR0LW8/UlS0641p5AI/AAAAAAAABgg/8WWOGNzbRJY/s800/IMG_20131007_220229_322.jpg
My idea was to use an elbow fitting thru a grommet and have the hoses from the water pump then connect right at the firewall. Unfortunately that didn't work out. Just to the left of the openings the firewall steps back about an inch. That doesn't allow the fitting to point left and still fit through the firewall, it's too short. I'm going to have to make the connection inside the firewall. The factory AC grommets fit the hose almost perfectly. Now I have 6 hose clamps and I'll have to monitor their condition and if it bugs me enough go with the copper pipe reroute.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9bI_RQQJy-M/UlS0-VhRuiI/AAAAAAAABgw/xlV5AYsWPF4/s800/IMG_20131007_220327_611.jpg
The holes where the stock heater hoses went are 30mm, which is an odd size for body plugs apparently. I found some metal 1 1/8" hole plugs at Lowe's that will work with a little modification, plus they can be easily painted.
Now back to wiring.
It's only been a week so not a whole lot done but I did get a new drivers side axle from V8R and it fits like a glove. Thankfully my fitment issue was as simple as just getting 2 passenger side axles the first time.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EkEXpnOWVDI/Umn6ezLt4CI/AAAAAAAABq4/tu0I49WKVPQ/s800/IMG_20131021_124202_064.jpg
So the rear is done, just need to install the driveshaft. Stock brakes are back on temporarily as I continue to decide what setup I want for the rear, Wilwoods vs Sport. A bit more wiring and it should start again and then theoretically move under its own power. :burnout:
revlimiter
10-25-2013, 12:55 PM
NICE! Nothing like that first ignition. Hope it goes well.
Long overdue update. The basic wiring is done. I could have done a lot more thinning out of both harnesses, shortening, etc but for now I'm just going to get it going.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3eZFOo36q10/UrPXDcE1NHI/AAAAAAAABsc/RuyFsbrU2Fs/s800/IMG_20131216_223940_661.jpg
When the dash goes back in shortly I'll make a mount for the fuse box and fan relays in the glove box. I'll also make a mount for the pcm in the foot well like stock and modify the stock cover.
Surprisingly very few of the GTO harness wires needed to be spliced in. For switched 12v power to the harness I connected pins 14 and 19 from the blue C1 connector to the whi/red wires from the 30A fuel injection fuse and main relay. This was also connected to the GTO C101 connector (near the left headlight) red, lt grn, and pnk/blu wires which supplies power to the injectors, coils, and skipshift and reverse lockout solenoids. On the LS2 each bank is run off its own 15A fuse and numerous relays.
Pin 20 is for constant 12v and went to whi/grn from the airbag system. This also went to pin 16 in the obd connector.
Pin 45 for the fuel pump relay went to the violet wire on the Miata relay.
That's about all that is needed to power it all. Wiring for the gauges is still pending but everything is pulled, only a few wires from LS2 C1 harness. The other 2 connectors on the E40 pcm are basically for the sensors, signals, etc.
I decided to use the venerable Taurus 2 speed fan so needed to also wire that in. It creates a massive amount of CFM in high speed but also draws a massive amount of power. I used this schematic.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7xg9HfkpEnA/UraAlXXsBoI/AAAAAAAABtU/ABxjrh31J2Q/s640/index-1.php.jpg
I made one change and swapped 87 and 30 on the low speed relay to keep connections consistent. My setup has a 80A maxi-blade fuse connected to main battery input on the fuse box. That feeds a 80A SPDT which is normally closed to a 30A SPST low speed relay. 12v power to pins 86 come from the now unused 10A airbag fuse. Then power from 87 goes out to the fans and grounds come from the pcm to switch them on. This way the low speed is turned off when high speed kicks on.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AzJti175jwk/UrPXBuL0T9I/AAAAAAAABsU/X5vZ-XG69d8/s800/IMG_20131216_212957_510.jpg
The Taurus fan fit my PRC radiator very well. I mounted it upside down of the original orientation and made a few brackets.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3wZ0vdKtCYw/UrPW05ICkiI/AAAAAAAABsI/D7jL6QvQaCU/s800/IMG_20131203_142646_146.jpg
I did have to cut up a bit of the top of the shroud to fit the upper radiator hose. I'll see about sealing it up again if it seems to cause any issues.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AWdx5JMpXSQ/UrPW10DsdKI/AAAAAAAABsM/sxmWCLApyYo/s800/IMG_20131203_143434_196.jpg
With the radiator and fans done I finished the heater hoses. The swirl pot is inline with the water pump output and the steam vent is tee'd into the input. I had some -5 SS hose laying around so I used that for the steam vent. I covered the other hoses in heat sleeve since they run very close to the headers. I still need to make a small bracket to hold the swirl pot.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CycXyqQMXck/UrPXGtc5qMI/AAAAAAAABsk/PPxcrE35kEA/s800/IMG_20131217_133259_945.jpg
Very, very close ...
Tkblazer
12-22-2013, 10:50 AM
Love this car
atank
12-22-2013, 02:33 PM
I love a clean install............looks great!
Busy, busy, but not on the car. I decided on a final mounting place for my oil filter, slightly different than originally planned.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BWGQKGRbkt4/UrPWz1XD6uI/AAAAAAAABsA/mXGRpS0H-wI/s800/IMG_20131122_233640_662.jpg
Since I had to make a small bracket to attach it I decided to incorporate a shield for the filter in case the area was susceptible to debris. The only drawback Ive found so far is that the hoses are in the way of the control arm bolt. I found this out after getting the ES bushings in the arms along with new ball joint boots and installing the front suspension. I also got the steering in with R/LE tie rod ends.
So I filled it with Mobil 1 and ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6FDsiPjK9Q&feature=youtube_gdata_player
There's a vacuum leak and no O2 sensors so its super rough but it runs again.
Next up is installing the rest of the FM exhaust, creating O2 extensions, filling the trans and diff with fluid, torquing all the subframe and suspension bolts and finally taking it for a quick spin around the block.
atank
01-16-2014, 08:33 AM
Oh I bet will be a quick SPIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :slayer:
About a week late for my monthly update. I unpackaged the FM exhaust and got that installed. It went very smoothly as to be expected with FM products. Cutting the rear bumper took a bit to get the template lined up right though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8v1lMRTDL0w/UrPXLO5PcSI/AAAAAAAABs0/SV4b6JINnrI/s640/IMG_20131218_134418_800.jpg
It's almost impossible to take an under car shot without a lift, but it looks good! The O2 sensors are way down in the collectors and would have been a pretty good stretch for stock harness so I decided to make a couple of 12" extensions. One of the nice things about LSx harnesses is that most of the Metripack connectors are readily available and Mouser has a nice selection and catalog. I already needed to order a couple other connectors so I added to O2 stuff to the list.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e_Vra4Ac5h0/UwnycqLMEuI/AAAAAAAABvY/T2S4utMaOog/s640/IMG_20140119_220717_062.jpg
Simple as that. My knock sensor connectors were pretty beat up somehow so I swapped those out for new as well. Even easier.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f1HDHAUDBBQ/UrZx2BR0d6I/AAAAAAAABtE/ljsp8PGffcE/s640/IMG_20130905_132907_148.jpg
Then I checked the torque on the subframe and suspension and was ready to fill her up. Getting excited!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2ziAB9dwdfc/UwnyY2Owu2I/AAAAAAAABvE/a7f3MZyzwXE/s640/IMG_20140211_225659_659.jpg
Bled the brakes and clutch with my Motive. The 1100 adapter works with the Wilwood clutch master from V8R.
I decided to test first and reverse on the jack stands just in case so I won't have any issues getting it back in the garage if there's a tranny problem. I didnt even get that far. Push the clutch, nothing. Well that's normal since I just bled it. Pump it a few times and still nothing. Couple more, no luck. Look under the car and clutch fluid is starting to come down, leaky slave. On a Miata this wouldn't be that big of a deal, but on a T56 the slave cylinder is attached to the throwout bearing, inside the bell housing :angry: Trying to slide this 100+ lbs tranny into place in the tight trans tunnel would likely cause me to start kicking and breaking things very quickly, so it's all going to have to come back out again. :bop:
Torture. I'm sure there are many more ultra frustrating setbacks in store also. The initial assembly that I've finished is the easy part.
Phatmiata
03-18-2014, 10:33 AM
getting closer !!!! :frantic:
After the huge fail that was my slave cylinder I needed to take a bit of time off. After I finally pulled the front subframe with the engine and trans and looked at the slave I needed to take even more time off. The slave wasn't leaking, I didn't tighten the feed line :scream: I was planning on swapping the feed and bleeder that I got with trans with the new pieces from the V8R clutch master kit. I forgot to do that. There were a myriad of other issues that caused that I worked out, but I forgot that I didn't tighten the hose. Since I bought a new slave I put it on anyway. I like the older bleeder better since it has a nipple so I just kept the old hoses on. Total cost of forgetting to swap out the hoses (which I didn't end up doing anyway) - $150 and 12 work hours, i.e. 1 month. :fp:
But the time finally arrived, on the ground and ready for a test.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Vgn-Ve09HYE/U1IK5Z669kI/AAAAAAAABwc/4oXbbV410-A/s800/IMG_20140417_190205_967.jpg
The test was just a very short 2nd gear drive around the block. My fans aren't working so temps got up to 200F very quickly. I tested the wiring and it's good, so I appears to be a pcm issue. Also it seems like my Bank 1 is running lean so I didn't want to do too much, just make sure it can move on its own. The video came out poorly, so I just pulled a few screenshots from it. The next one will be better!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CpF3CwAtPqo/U1ZkudkZgoI/AAAAAAAABxI/CklGEWpKfeU/s800/first%2520drive%2520-%2520short%25281%2529.jpg
And finally, nose in into the garage for the first time in 23 months.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AHnRfnl1biE/U1IK_hqDxgI/AAAAAAAABws/JD1CCezDhNo/s800/IMG_20140417_191654_099.jpg
As I mentioned in the first post this Miata is a very early model, so it is one of the 2500 or so that is actually having its 25th birthday this month. I'm glad I was able to get it out on the road, no matter how short, to celebrate it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B5Aqd5wh_9w/U1ILCeObDtI/AAAAAAAABxc/w1f4pktYBTI/s640/IMG_20140415_213426_876-1.jpg
Next on the to do list is working on some tuning issues like getting the fans working, figuring out why my vss isn't reading, and why it's lean in bank 1. Then I need to fix a few brackets and also install the LS7 intake. I have the LS2 on right now but it won't fit under the hood or bumper, it's much bigger than the LS7. That involves switching to the LS7 MAF also. Then I get the rest of the body work on.
WASABI
04-22-2014, 12:41 PM
Nice to get her moving again. Happy 25th Anniversary to you!!!
revlimiter
04-22-2014, 12:48 PM
Happy 25th!!! Excellent progress.
So... what do you plan to do for rubber? I'm having a hard time with the 14" selection. I'm actually considering rebarreling my Star Sharks up to 15x9.
John J
04-22-2014, 01:26 PM
I would seriously consider using chassis reinforcement arms made by V8R, Boss Frog, etc. for stability of chassis with the extra HP.
Phatmiata
04-22-2014, 04:57 PM
I would seriously consider using chassis reinforcement arms made by V8R, Boss Frog, etc. for stability of chassis with the extra HP.
I think he bought some already.
Car is coming along really nicely !!
I have a set of the GarageStar fender/cowl braces. They'll go on before I'm finally ready to put the fenders on.
I'm currently using NT01s and since I don't even have wipers on the car I plan to stick with R comps. I wish I picked up the 225 RA1 since they've been discontinued though. The R888 is still available in 225 but unless something has changed they're not as good. I'm looking at 15" options too, mainly for more brakes.
revlimiter
04-22-2014, 10:45 PM
Yeah. More brakes would be awesome. *sigh*
And thanks for the tire info! Not sure why I'd not considered R comp. I barely drive Sharka 2000 miles a year...
I've spent the last few weeks starring at HP Tuners trying to figure out why my fans, vss and reverse lockout were not working. The later 2 issues related because one trigger for the rev lockout is vehicle speed. The ECM didn't come with the motor but was from a slightly modified 05 Vette. I copied over a stock tune and only deleted VATS.
I was able to manually switch on the fan after changing to a GTO config since the Vette uses a PWM fan, but it still wouldn't kick on at the programmed temp. After a few more changes related to AC codes, since I don't have AC, I still wasnt having any luck.
I took a break from that head scratcher and went to the vss. The scanner was not reading any vehicle speed at all. A test of ECM pins 44 and 45 showed AC voltage that increased with speed so the sensor seemed good.
In the end it turned out I had an automatic tune flashed on my ECM. Since the trans functions are controlled by a TCM and one was not connected none of those functions showed up in HPT, it didn't look like an auto tune, at least to my novice eye. The auto and manual tunes look like they have the same parameters but there's other info going on the the background. I flashed a stock manual tune and voila, vehicle speed and a working reverse lockout! I redid the fan edits during the flash and while testing the vss and watching the CLT as I've been accustomed to do during all this testing, I noticed the fan was now working too! I have no idea why but I'll take it.
Next I need to fix a couple of the fan mount brackets i made and then test how well the Taurus fan works with my current setup and duct or seal more if necessary. That means a little driving :)
Summer is difficult time to try to get work done :| I managed to get my fan brackets made and go for another quick test. Fans worked well but my rad cap was a little loose and sprayed when I punched it one time so that cut it short. It was mostly a success though. Now in order to take a bit longer of a test I need to get the front bodywork back on. For quick testing purposes I've been using the stock LS2 Corvette intake box.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FyhEAO9Rcpo/U-YxrDhxdqI/AAAAAAAAB2I/1yOcrxqdCaw/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
This obviously doesn't fit under the hood or bumper but works great for testing without either on. Now it's time to fit the LS7 intake which can be made to fit, get lots of cold air and look factory. The first step is cutting away a section of the front bumper support so the intake can sit a little further back.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3yygutwYY-Q/U-ZHREqjqGI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/mG8zYczXNqw/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
I opted to use FM's weld in piece for convenience sake and it was only $25. I also started learning to weld so I took the plunge. It was a bit challenging since the brace is over 1/8" thick and being welded to sheet metal but I got bit in. Its got a couple of cold spots and burned through in a couple others but it's holding well :D
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W57qxLYMcwI/U-QT4WkCBRI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/x2Fp8fu8qrg/s800/0807141351a.jpg
A small trim is also needed to the radiator support so it can sit low enough to fit under the hood. I still need to clean that up and I'm probably going to weld in some nuts to use to mount the intake.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_HJR_fejNUA/U-Uis2W5piI/AAAAAAAAB1o/01kR_CFqBHc/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
To make the hood fit some more cutting needs to be done. First I decided to tackle installing the Aerocatch hood pins since the stock latch was removed for the radiator and also wouldn't work with the intake. It's pretty straight forward, mark where the pins are going, tape the template down and cut.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cx66avdYg7M/U-QT8jfrboI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/L5eUqxTxndo/s800/0807141320.jpg
Although using a hole saw like FM suggests would be much easier than a Dremel like I did. There's actually 3 layers in some places, 2 layers of bracing, and it's hard to get to that middle layer in spots with a dremel.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VHlkHVlYP5Q/U-Uizlx54jI/AAAAAAAAB14/Mye6e8HQATI/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
A couple hours of cutting and grinding wasted the rest of my time so I didn't get to finish the install. Then I can finish trimming the hood bracing for the intake and then put the front back on.
Cxmoney
08-09-2014, 01:02 PM
damn man. I wish I had the funds for a LSX swap. sooooo awesomeeee
I'm trying to make a real push to have this thing driveable by the end of the month so I can take it to MMRLS. I'm almost there.
I finished the Aerocatch install. I put the pins in the standard NA position replacing the front rubber stoppers. I also installed the GarageStar fender braces which was very straight forward.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MMWvPn-YTps/U_Dp0rhlJ-I/AAAAAAAAB3U/5YsOhfBHjzk/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
I trimmed the stock hood latch and some of the surrounding hood bracing in order to clear the LS7 intake. Getting the little spot welds off took some patience.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ugOvbS1ftGg/U_DpYw78VBI/AAAAAAAAB20/oViu2YYoX28/s800/0813142217.jpg
The front end is finally back together! Although some adjustments need to be done.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P8ZhSDq-RBY/U_DpbaVp9hI/AAAAAAAAB28/Y7cMlr7b_5c/s800/0813141309a.jpg
But it can't all be progress, I have to take at least one step backwards somewhere... When I mounted the Corvette drive by wire gas pedal I removed a stud that I thought was going to interfere. I read this in some build thread I think and it looked very much like the case.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XqLFU_lHpjU/U_DpdWKPFbI/AAAAAAAAB3E/MBNBu5DZc7g/s800/0813142147.jpg
Turns out this bolt was kind of important, imagine that :? It holds the middle of the steering column tight. While the bolts at the top just behind the steering wheel hub do most of the work, this one and it's partner on the opposite side do enough, especially with the extra force on it without power steering. On my test drives I could hear it making some noises. At least I was fortunate enough that there was clearance around the pedal. So I got my grinder and welder back out and put in a new M8 x 20 bolt. I don't know how I ever got by trying to work on cars for so long without being to unskillfully stick metal together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Z5wU9xomQA/U_DpfCji0hI/AAAAAAAAB3M/BTDHc_PKV8c/s800/0814141502.jpg
Getting everything back in proved to be a royal PITA. Getting the steering shaft into the rack with the big ol' engine in place was a very tight squeeze and led to some nice bruises on my arms and wrists. But by the end of the night it was back together and I'm almost ready for another test drive. Just need to install the LS7 MAF and reflash the ECM with the required changes to the tune.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KhCIQggIQhA/U_DpSZGe39I/AAAAAAAAB2s/mi4IQieCIb8/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
In order to use the LS7 intake I also need to use the Ls7 maf. The Ls2 maf is the older hot wire style and the ls7 uses the newer card style. First step in doing this is changing the connector since they are different.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tGjllWaw2hI/U_U6Z5mTorI/AAAAAAAAB4A/MxoGqIwkPCk/s800/0820141435a.jpg
They sell adapter harnesses for such a conversion but it's cheaper and cleaner to just swap on a new connector. Another order to my favorite Metripack connector supplier Mouser.com for part
number 13519051 and I was ready to go. Pull the pins using the tool or small screwdriver and swap them into the proper new positions. Easy.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J1lCa7547-s/U_U6XwIsOBI/AAAAAAAAB34/C0TIXSzK5W0/s800/0820141504.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x-aMXLIfHts/U_U6Rpp3IjI/AAAAAAAAB3o/gTx48mN3a4E/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
Then I copied/pasted the maf and iat tables from a 06 ls7 and wrote them to my ECM.
The test drive was full of fail :stress: I made it around the corner and clt was already skyrocketing up to 220 and then my throttle stopped responding. I let the engine cool a bit and tried again, same result so I limped back home. Throttle disappeared again but I was able to creep up my pretty steep driveway at idle, torque!
LS engines are notorious for bubbles in the cooling system so I decided to burp it again. Subsequent test drive proved that solved my cooling problem but not the throttle, it was still intermittently cutting out and throwing a code. Once I cleared the code it would be ok but not for long. This appeared after I pulled the assembly to fix the steering column bolt so I was hoping I didn't damage the APP sensor somehow. I pulled the connector for the pedal to try to do some tests and the first thing I noticed was a loose wire. It must have been loose and then finally came out when I pulled the connector again. Luckily I had a spare pin so I installed that which took a while laying under the dash. I'm cautiously optimistic after another short drive.
All the stopping and starting during the tests also introduced a hot start issue. The starter was really dragging. I'm using a Summit starter that has some gear reduction so it can still get it started but it's worrisome. I have it blanketed so my attention is turning to the battery. I'm using a Westco which has 475 cca and should be sufficient. A stock ls1 camaro is 525 and ls2 gto is 600. Race Corvettes get away with much less and I don't have much more of an electrical system than they do. Others have mentioned upgrading the small battery cables that have to run the length of the car so that's my plan. I've ordered some 2/0 cable for the hot and grounds.
Another code I'm dealing with is for the maf, p0102. I went back and looked at my previous logs and it's been present the whole time so it's not related to the new maf. The maf is reading a constant 0.40 lb/min which looking at the table correlates to the lowest frequency reading of 1000Hz. I've tripled checked the wiring and continuity and it all checks out. Also the IAT is working correctly so I'm stumped at this point. Next I'm going to do some more electrical testing.
It doesn't appear I'm going to make M@MRLS :( Although driveability is not bad at this point, I don't want to risk the 100 mile trip, especially with the maf problem which could cause it to go lean since it isn't reading the extra airflow. Also I still need an alignment and a new windshield and I don't have any time this week to get either done before Friday.
fwdtamiya
09-01-2014, 11:00 AM
It doesn't appear I'm going to make M@MRLS :(
I was really hoping you would. :(
I was really hoping too. Maybe I'll roll in with a cracked and paint splattered windshield and a really bad diy alignment, if I can figure out this maf thing :? Tick, tick.
Turns out triple checking isn't good enough. I got a new DMM that can read frequency to check the maf but decided to check voltages and grounds first. Although I thought I had continuity to pin 14 which is switched 12v but I had no voltage on the pnk wire at the maf. Going back to pin 14 and it has 12v but no continuity to the maf. Pin 14 also goes to the O2 sensors and they appear to have power but I need to get in and actually test at the connector. If so then I have to trace the harness and find the break to the maf. Fun.
While everyone else was playing at MRLS I was trying to troubleshoot. No power at O2s either so that was actually helpful. There's a large white 26 pin connector known as C206. The only thing I was using on it was for the reverse lockout. There is a pink 12v wire that I read as feeding some part of the interior harness. Turns out that it is the 12v source and then splits to the maf and O2s and to ECM c1-14. So now the maf is good. Bad is that my O2 readings are weird. Bank 2 trims are 20-40% while bank 1 is <8%.
So I swap them to make sure it's not a bad sensor but result is the same. Since I had it up on stands I decided to try a rolling test to see if a little load changed anything. Top tip, if you're going to do this make sure you take off the ebrake. Insight from an idiot, smouldering brake pads smell really bad and it lingers in the garage. At least I was smart enough to stop when I saw smoke :fp:
Nothing changed, still testing. I need to put the lights on so I can test drive at night.
Phatmiata
09-10-2014, 10:23 AM
If you go next year let me know!!! I and planning to come out next year. Really hope to see your Miata in person!!
If it's not done by next year it'll be parted out and burned! Pretty good chance I will be, extra effort if you're making the trip.
BlueMotorsport
09-10-2014, 01:29 PM
wow... just wow awesome
fwdtamiya
09-10-2014, 01:54 PM
It's good that you're working out all these kinks now, before they cause damage at least.
Tkblazer
09-10-2014, 02:03 PM
I would love to see this car in person! Hopefully I can drive my car to mrls next yesr
Hopefully my high fuel trim problem has been solved. I checked the injectors and it seemed like 1 wasn't clicking so I swapped them bank to bank and the problem followed to bank 1. I took the bad one out and it wouldn't open on the bench either so I have a new one in the mail and hoping that is the end of this issue.
In the mean time since the engine is down I was looking for something else to fix. I ordered a Joyfast long knob from Rod during the last gb but it didn't fit the shifter adapter I made, the threaded part was too short. Since I've been teaching myself to weld I fired it up and made a new one. So cool being able to just whip something out like this.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pEeD7nKmnfk/VCw2msACXEI/AAAAAAAAB7s/jeCPWkVbXLA/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
The throws are pretty long though so I'm looking into some kind of short shifter base, leaning toward the stock Hurst right now if I can find one.
A couple weeks ago I got a little something in the mail that I've been waiting for for like 10 years. I told myself I wasn't going to buy anything until all the bugs we're worked out and I was driving the car again but obviously I couldn't pass it up.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qX56lBRyV6U/VDWrvwflVQI/AAAAAAAAB8E/IX5gZ3iGW9w/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
I had to pack it back away since it's going to be a while until I can get it painted but finally :smileywave:
Phatmiata
10-08-2014, 09:33 PM
mmmmm are those Recaro Carbon Kevlar Racing seats from the RS-Limited Eunos Roadster I spy?
that YSCC ducktail trunk lid is icing on the cake man !!
atank
10-09-2014, 05:07 AM
I love that Trunk lid.........:mrgreen:
Good eye as always Randy, yes that is a kevlar Recaro from a RS-Limited. I only have the one unfortunately. I picked it up a couple of years ago when there wasn't many around. I was tempted when pairs started showing up earlier this year but shipping is such a pain. For now I have a SPG for the passenger.
It seems like my fuel problems are over now that the new injector is in. I want to do a few more test miles but it's looking promising. Another thing I did at the same time was replace the fuel pump relay since that was on my list. There have been numerous reports of LS swap fuel pumps (Walbro like mine and DW) straining the relay. But apparently the relay is over rated and causes the main relay to fail. Cure seems to be wiring a new relay directly to the battery.
For the sake of convenience I mounted a 30A relay to the antenna mount next to the battery. I connected it to the battery via a 30A inline fuse and used 12GA wire to send the power to the fuel pump. The short term solution was to use the old blu/red 12v wire to activate the relay. This isn't ideal since now I have 2 fuel pump relays but I didn't want to deal with running wires front to back. I'll clean it up later. For now this should prevent any issues.
Phatmiata
10-11-2014, 04:30 PM
I have a set coming on a slow banana boat from Japan, maybe get them next year. I have always wanted them, finally got a set when all those pairs starting showing up.
I really love your build man, I had reading your thread it keeps pushing me back over the fence to go V8. Maybe I should just build a V8, but everyone is telling me to order all the parts in first, otherwise it takes too long to build. And I already have like zero free time :fp:
I initially planned on 1 year for the build with my very limited time but I'm at 2 years now. That includes many weeks of not touching anything. Given how little time in have small problems equal weeks or months to resolve. The leaky slave probably cosy me a month since I had to r&r the engine and this fuel trim issue was good for a few weeks.
The swap itself is pretty easy but definitely time consuming. I bought things in stages but it depends on your plan and where you are going to get parts. The new LFx swap is very interesting too. About the same power and price as a ls1 but much newer. Good condition ls1's are getting hard to find unless you rebuild at which point you might get close to ls2/3 prices. Lfx trans is smaller than t56 also which means no tunnel mods which saves time and welding.
I had a 200hp turbo and that was definitely fun, this 400hp v8 is ridiculous. Even at 50% throttle which is as high as I've gotten.
The R-Speed dual hood lift has been on backorder for a while but finally came in. Now I can ditch the stake I was using as a prop since I lost my old lift kit between builds :shrug:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3dc5Prygm_U/VD7VQIhi9DI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/gR2Uybh8q3U/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg
Did another short test drive to work out the bugs. My clutch was removed from a brand new Z06 so it only had delivery miles. I still need to break it in so I'm not pressing it, but it's difficult to not step on it a little :8):
http://youtu.be/LH_gkGbWxHE
The drivetrain seems good so far. A couple issues I'm tackling now are my reverse light not working and front wheel bearings. I didn't have my GV reverse light hooked up prior but it's pretty straight forward. I put in a new Ford reverse light switch into the T56 so that may be the source. Also my front wheel bearings are on their way out. Unfortunately I didn't find the time to repack them before they started squealing so I have a new pair coming in that I'll repack with Amsoil grease.
Phatmiata
10-24-2014, 02:32 PM
I should ban you right now for that 15 second teaser video!!! :teehee:
more videos !!!! NOAW!!
fwdtamiya
10-25-2014, 07:23 PM
I think I need a V8.
Phatmiata
10-25-2014, 09:47 PM
I think I need a V8.
everytime I see this carp Im like, man I could've had a V8 :teehee:
I wish I had more than 15s of video to share but the rest would be me just putting around and sitting at stop lights. There will be more soon :burnout:
In the meantime I ordered a pair of $30 Rockauto front hubs and repacked them in Amsoil synthetic grease. I looked into also replacing the ball bearings with more precise G10 spec bearings but all of mine seemed to be pretty close according to my Mitutoyo dial caliper which is the best thing I have to try to measure something like that. Track guys who regularly abuse the front hubs with extended periods of high heat from the brakes are familiar with the process. I don't think V8 power will be very easy on the brakes on the track so I took the 2 hours to repack. Also I'm not sure of how the forces work and whether or not the Amsoil will help, but low offset wheels are also hard on hubs. The process is fairly simple, take them apart, clean, apply new grease and put back together.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N4wv4hCovtI/VE1QKBWwtAI/AAAAAAAACCA/RPHu3ppKdjI/s800/1025142044.jpg
I'll try to make a post in the DIY section that is a little more detailed.
I haven't had a lot of garage time lately, the only thing I've been able to do was get the new hubs on the spindles. I have had a tiny bit of time sitting around at my desk so I was able to do a write up on the front repack in the DIY section (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?10544-Front-wheel-bearing-repack-how-to)
I also got in touch with Adam @ revlimiter.net for some stuff to kind of celebrate getting the car on the road.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zHzvAeLiiPg/VGD2ZG-5yqI/AAAAAAAACC0/tzlcbA6cOr8/s800/1109142336.jpg
I'm going to put the badge on the rear, on the GV tail light panel. I need to actually clean the car before it can go on so that'll be a bit. There's a few things higher on the priority list. There's one on the car now though. I searched high and low for a billet oil cap that would be able to accommodate an insert like the Project G Miata caps. You'd think it would be a pretty easy thing to find for a Vette but most are flat or just ugly. I stumbled upon this one used and I think it works nicely.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ws-JMoTZsIc/VGE8dmSGAcI/AAAAAAAACD4/gZnCS_Ke870/s800/1110141428.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ysD8EGgkonw/VGD2eS-Yp6I/AAAAAAAACC8/JE4KT7clkY8/s800/1109142344a.jpg
Of course Adam was fantastic and I couldn't be happier with the results.
revlimiter
11-10-2014, 06:22 PM
AWESOME!!! That oil cap looks so good!
Phatmiata
11-10-2014, 06:25 PM
Looks good. What is the Carbon fiber part in the background.
The cf is just a sheet I made but never used that I have laying around my workbench. It had a couple flaws so I use it as a mat for whatever, makes a nice background too :)
Thanks again Adam!
A long overdue update. I took a break around the holidays and then just never got back into the garage. When I finally did there wasn't much to really update on, just little things so now I'll catch up here.
First order was to get the car a little more road worthy. I started by getting the windows to roll up. I replaced the roller guides but that didn't fully cure it, turned out the channels were really gunked up and needed a cleaning and some new grease.
Next was alignment. Before I could do that I needed to set my height. The last test I did resulted in a few hits to my cats on some very minor road imperfections and the resonators also scrape on my driveway. The FM exhaust hangs a bit lower than optimal but I don't want to get into modifying it or fabbing a whole new system yet. I'm at about 4" to the pinch welds now which is pretty low but unfortunately with the flares it looks quite high, almost 3 finger gap. One of the drawbacks of the N2 flares. Then it was off to Auto Innovations in nearby Milpitas and they performed a spot on alignment in less than an hour :cheers:
This week I got around to some real work, the brakes. Driving around on stock 1.6 brakes during my initial test drives was very unnerving but I couldn't decide what I wanted to do with the brbrakes. have a pair of Dynapro 4 pot radial mount calipers that will go in the front with 11.75" rotors and Sport rotors for the rear but they won't fit my 14" Star Sharks. Obvious answer is to get wheels that fit but until I find some I like in the size I need, I'm holding out. Ideally that'll be a set of 15x9/10 SSR Mk-III but that will most likely require doing a rebarrel. I've considered Meisters, as there is a set of S1 for sale locally in the right sizes but I'm back and forth about them. I finally decided to run the FM LBBK with 11" sport rotors up front and 10" 1.8 rear. This will be just a temporary setup for the street so it should be sufficient, hopefully.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p4FA2txtBEc/VSzb00c6hYI/AAAAAAAACFg/PHqOb4YRzHU/s800/upload_-1.jpg
The install was very straightforward. I do need a 10mm spacer though, luckily I have plenty of room under the fenders. The pads for the Wilwood Powerlite calipers are tiny! No wonder they are more commonly used as rear calipers for FM's 4 wheel kit. I'm going to try the Poly E compound pads they came with matched with Hawk HPS out back since again, it's just for the street. When it's time to hit the track I'll have to swap in the big kit with Carbotechs. I could run the powerlites in the rear or maybe just sell the LBBK.
Finally, I did a mock up of my track setup since I had the wheels out doing some reorganizing. I have a set of 15x10 +12 Diamonds wearing old 250/590 Yokohama slicks. I also have a set of 245/580 Hoosiers waiting for a home.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M77IxGmWtHQ/VSzbmlF71rI/AAAAAAAACFY/_k0Iaif9xYA/s800/upload_-1.jpg
The Diamonds don't have much of a wheel pad so they don't clear the LBBK either. It looks like a 3mm is all that's needed. I tried the 10mm spacer that I have and there was interference in the back of the wheel well at almost full lock for the inside wheel. Makes me a bit nervous trying to clear the bigger calipers.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mozfnVb9TC4/VSz0AWV9pqI/AAAAAAAACFw/nPL-DnQdS_Y/s800/upload_-1.jpg
I've had my eye on the new 15x10 Jongbloeds so if the Diamonds don't fit that'll make my decision much easier.
Next is getting the Stack gauge cluster wired up. Currently I'm just running the Torque Pro app and it actually works quite well, except I haven't figured out if it can read fuel in my application, I don't think so.
Phatmiata
04-14-2015, 08:49 AM
This was another thing I was worried about, obviously you need good stopping power with all that extra horsepower, but it seems none of the Big Brake Kits fit inside 15" wheels?
Unk577
04-15-2015, 04:25 PM
This was another thing I was worried about, obviously you need good stopping power with all that extra horsepower, but it seems none of the Big Brake Kits fit inside 15" wheels?
Incorrect youngin
There is a pretty big variance between wheels for bbk clearance but I think most clear the popular 11 or even 11.75" kits with at most a small spacer.
I did a little wiring this week. Got most of the indicators and warning lights, except the ebrake warning since I don't have the switch hooked up. Still need to get the senders in too.
Just a little preview.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ZeUMLarAAw/VV-D6My6QCI/AAAAAAAACGo/lhLld1HKROQ/s800/upload_-1.jpg
Package arrived today. Don't have time to unbox it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U8B2zjV-cVg/VXq7U8BZH8I/AAAAAAAACHY/-elkyeWo4IQ/s800/upload_-1.jpg
I was planning on sending my AD shocks out for a rebuild and was thinking of picking these up later in the year but then decided to blow a bunch of money now :bop: I'm going to have a liquidate a few pieces in storage to offset it.
The Stack will have to take a back seat so I can get these installed and tested. :8):
Greasemonkey2000
06-12-2015, 09:38 AM
Just read thru it and i love everything you have done! :drinkto: A v8 miata is my realistic/obtainable dream car. I can't wait to see what is to come! :)
Xidas live up to the hype! I've been contemplating it for a while and finally decided to pull the trigger.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QXUAwc2VzCM/VY3KGpy5tjI/AAAAAAAACH8/MUrXF_R7NCo/s680/upload_-1.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3f_auMfd5lQ/VY3KDyFZ2CI/AAAAAAAACH0/wB6hK5zw1yw/s680/upload_-1.jpg
They are the Gen 2 with 700/400 lbs/in dual springs with NB hats. At 8 clicks from full soft out of 20 and 4.0"/4.25" at the pinch welds, they ride tremendously well. I could go even lower and not worry about bottoming out if it weren't for my low hanging FM exhaust. It's hard to believe how well behaved they feel, and that's just on the street and hitting some pot holes. Can't wait to feel how they really perform where they were designed for.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--g1EfXt5xTE/VY3J-Bzt8EI/AAAAAAAACHs/meChXgLMKPo/s800/upload_-1.jpg
The orange knobs match nicely :8): I installed a GarageStar MC brace also. Nice piece, the pedal really feels firmer at the bottom.
Back to the Stack, can't get the tach to read. Got a bunch more resistors to try for the pull up.
revlimiter
07-01-2015, 09:46 AM
My XIDA impressions are the same. I can't believe how well they work.
TNRooster3
07-01-2015, 10:41 AM
Rooster has XIDAs also, on twisty backroads they are IT. Steve knew what he was doing when he put them on the car.
Still working on the Stack. I made a wiring harness for the lights so I'm almost done with that.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FR6stKcSmDc/Vczlu9gP60I/AAAAAAAACI4/1doZBWNGY3Q/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Still so many little odds and ends that take up so much time. I was hoping to do a shake down day at Thunderhill this week but only working on the car 4-5 hours in the last month isn't going to cut it. It's probably a blessing since it looks like it going to be 100F out there, but there really isn't another track day close by that I can make before MRLS in October. I'll have to figure out another way to work the bugs out.
The annual Miatas @ MRLS is 2 weeks away so I'm in a bit of a rush to get the little things done. Working on the dash and making a passenger seat mount, fire extinguisher mount and oil pan skid plate right now.
I'm also going to try something new to get some traction.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPufyheUN14/VgGJ9He--9I/AAAAAAAACLw/TOGsNqXVZIQ/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
That's over 1 meter of Maxxis tread, 42" of section width. The wheels should be in tomorrow, nothing special, just something to experiment with.
Vegard
09-22-2015, 06:15 PM
Óoooooóooooooóooooooóoooooo
Been busting ass trying to get ready for this weekend. Apparently not hard enough because I'm still working and not able to go to the BBQ that starts in a couple hours. Short break for a pre weekend update.
Mounted the ECM in the factory location. Quick and simple design, I'll probably clean it up a bit later and maybe thin it out. Factory cover/foot rest still fits over it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wS6oBFWTXXM/VgrA93KnmaI/AAAAAAAACMk/5fs2FxaBJ-k/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Made a mount for the passenger seat, Recaro SPG. Decided to go with a floor mount for simplicity's sake,
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EUCzh-WSjlI/VgrBBxkjdDI/AAAAAAAACM0/jwXmQPieWEI/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
I picked up a Halotron extinguisher and decided to mount it in front of the passenger seat. Since I had some extra room there I went with 10lb bottle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xb_yvrSCUSg/VgrBCuUtrWI/AAAAAAAACM8/heB3OGLbGfI/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zBCMAsD-9yk/VgrBDsW-FkI/AAAAAAAACNE/cD8V5hxQrjQ/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Since I was making a seat mount I thought it would as good a time as any to pull the Recaro SPA Racer I've had in storage for a few years. Its a great race seat but not at all streetable. My Reacro RS Limited is a great street alternative. This mount is a PITA trying to clear the tunnel, still working on it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LL6_7kKJbNI/VgrBAxR-KdI/AAAAAAAACMs/QwysnJonZBo/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Got some of the interior together to make it look at least acceptable. Still a lot of work to do here in the future but it's a track day this weekend.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OCNMWoXgRLc/VgrBErLaVhI/AAAAAAAACNM/RaSZiiobxGY/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
I've got a couple more hours work to finish the brakes, get the SPA in, and clean up. Then rest for tomorrow.
Unk577
10-03-2015, 11:59 PM
Car looked good on track today. Congrats on your shake down.
Vegard
10-04-2015, 05:19 AM
We need pictures!
Car looked good on track today. Congrats on your shake down.
Thanks, it was great meeting you and the guys @ V8R! A highlight to an otherwise pretty lackluster day.
That's what I get for procrastinating and doing a shake down day during one of the biggest get together days of the year. In other words I spent most of the day working on the car and not checking out the sites.
I have to sort thru the pics my wife took but I don't know if there are that many. Here's a short clip going down the straight at start/finish. There's decent audio of the 2-3 shift.
https://youtu.be/7w7-cFt31y0
I'll write up a synopsis in a bit.
Phatmiata
10-05-2015, 01:35 PM
video says its PRIVATE, I know V8 noises might be considered porn but really though, such a tease....
Unk577
10-06-2015, 01:54 AM
Oh by the way. Your wife is awesome! It's rare to find someone that supports and encourages your hobby like she does.
Now hurry and finish your car so you can build her one
The big tire experiment ... I wanted to replace my 15x10 Diamonds with Jongbloeds but I missed out on the Miata sized 10s with +25 offset. Luckily Phil's Tires carries some designed for BMWs with +15 offset and they're actually a better size for me with the big flares so it worked out. I was planning on using the new 245/40/15 Maxxis RC1 since they're the widest 15s besides the Hoosiers. At $175/ea shipped direct from Maxxis they're a pretty good deal also. While browsing their store about to place my order I noticed they also have a 275/35/17 RC1, which is another unique size. While that won't fit up front, I've seen similar diameter 245/45/16 tires in the rear of other N2 wearing cars. 15" and 17" stagger is definitely unusual but worth a try.
After a little searching I found the XXR 527 actually looks quite a bit like the Jongbloeds, especially in flat black. They come in 17x9.75 +25 which is also a pretty good match, close enough for my experiment. I already have 10mm spacers that would make the f/r offsets almost the same. If all goes well I could worry about finding a real set, or having something custom built.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lscEZoAjVog/VhKkNeAOZPI/AAAAAAAACNk/YGCELygRZQI/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Due to the slight stretch of the 245s on the 10s, the pairs look fairly close in size, close enough to probably not be worth all this extra trouble. But with 400 lbs ft of torque, I need all the traction help I can get. On paper there is 1 inch more section width on the 275s, which is more apparent side by side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yjlvI8QHBY0/VhtoEw4UxJI/AAAAAAAACOs/EKjjWZ_CXxk/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
I mounted them up and did a couple laps around the neighborhood and found a couple spots that were slightly rubbing at the front of the rear fenderwell and needed a minor adjustment with the BFH.
Finally it was time to load the trailer. It was already 2am and I had to wake up at 5.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d_E93VHYZs8/VhtQNC3GFRI/AAAAAAAACOY/Fvw3gezuGnY/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
Trailer style - no front lip and raised the Xidas a bit up front. Unfortunately this is one of the few pics I have with the new wheel/tire setup.
As I mentioned before, the actual track day was a mess. Constantly working on the car and lack of sleep made for a long day. My first 2 sessions lasted 3-4 laps before getting black flagged for excessive smoke :fp: Turns out the big tire experiment was a fail, at least round 1.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eyBr3UzuGaM/VhKkQJSNvzI/AAAAAAAACN0/kn76ZffHKwY/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
It doesn't look that bad there, but there was enough to do some damage to the tires. After it ate/burned the fiberglass from the flares it got into the metal under.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5HRof7NqYA8/VhKkPI85JcI/AAAAAAAACNs/r2rJjjviJZk/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg
The experiment was over for the day as I didn't want to risk another flag. The RC1s felt great the limited amount of time I used them. I think most of the problem was caused by too much down force from the APR GTC-200 wing I just put on. In the clip I posted earlier you can see smoke starting as I get up to about 80mph. I don't think I had any problems in the corners. I may have too much AOA on the wing so I'll look at that as well as trying to further mod the fenderwell where it was rubbing. Not giving up yet.
I brought my Star Sharks in case of emergency and turns out it was a good idea. I backed off in session 3 to get a feel of the much smaller 205 NT01s but session 4 I started to push a little harder, maybe too hard. After getting stuck in traffic for half a lap, I was cruising around the hairpin at Turn 2 and then lost all power and saw a low oil pressure warning. I pulled off between Turn 3 & 4 and my day was over. While waiting for the tow I summized I might have over revved on a downshift a lap back and now the motor decided it had enough.
After getting back to my trailer I talked it over with a friend and came to the conclusion that it didn't really sound like a motor failure. I decided to try to start it back up and sure enough it was still alive :sweat: It could have been the ECM freaking out because of the over rev, I found a couple of accounts online of that happening, or a more probable explaination would be related to the charging problems I was having all day caused by a loose wire on the alternator.
To top it off my in car video only recorded my 2nd session, which was the shortest. I still need to try to edit what little footage I have. Thanks to the Rad Roadsters coverage of the event http://radroadsters.net/miatas-at-mazda-raceway-2015/ I have one good pic of me on track.
https://radroadsters.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/dsc07560_25x25.jpg?w=1480&h=
I think I have a few decent pics too, somewhere.
tsingson
10-12-2015, 07:04 AM
Car looks great!
Greasemonkey2000
10-12-2015, 01:21 PM
Jealous of everyone that got to go to MRLS, much less drive the course! Nevermind in a sweet looking v8 powered miata! :bow:
Those carbon kevlar seats are sick!!! :drinkto:
I only have pics of session 4, and most are out of focus or not framed very well. Oh well.
Staging area.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v70X3hfkrTY/ViFj_r-9q2I/AAAAAAAACQA/KAPjyoJe1uI/s800-Ic42/IMG_7450%252520staging.jpg
Crossing start / finish and going under the bridge.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bqnVKdftO_s/ViFkGt0C4XI/AAAAAAAACQA/wgTyL4ohxnI/s800-Ic42/IMG_7467%252520start%252520finish.jpg
Going into 10, under the Corkscrew sign. You can get an idea of the elevation change, the Corkscrew is up that hill.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uzu54uvwb2s/ViFj_AgfyfI/AAAAAAAACQA/3DqENOure3Y/s800-Ic42/IMG_7470%252520into%25252010%25252C%252520corkscre w%252520sign.jpg
Turn 10. There's a Catfish back there, very cool looking body.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6gWaGwgRWFg/ViFkBPZtDAI/AAAAAAAACQA/9S1mAvgleGU/s800-Ic42/IMG_7475%25252010%252520apex.jpg
Coming out of 10.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gk3D59uVX7s/ViFkBY9nYzI/AAAAAAAACQA/fUoiE2r25NI/s800-Ic42/IMG_7479%252520out%252520of%25252010.jpg
Going into 11, just before the braking zone.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lkcFtPSm774/ViFkEjI8P0I/AAAAAAAACQA/6E2DNl7DSyQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_7484%252520into%25252011.JPG
Coming out of 11.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KbWT_nThTaM/ViFkGYiy2qI/AAAAAAAACQA/BRjvPz2HoLY/s800-Ic42/IMG_7502%252520out%252520of%25252011.JPG
Starting back down the straight.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YnWLT2CkQgs/ViFkJbGC-yI/AAAAAAAACQA/OZvHLf4F6bo/s800-Ic42/IMG_7507%252520begining%252520of%252520straight.JP G
NCGreasemonkey
10-16-2015, 09:03 PM
Ok. I have been silently surfing this forum and found your thread. Read all the way through. My eyes are blistered, heart is pounding, wallet is trembling and I need to do my intro thread. Thanks for the insight and info. Looking forward to an extended-length vid of a run in it when you get the minor pitfalls fixed. Thank you Druz!
Demon I Am
10-16-2015, 10:01 PM
Doing the awesome shit I wish I could be doing. Love this thread.
I can't believe it's been 18 months since I've updated this. That also means it's been that long since I drove the car, which is awful. A little over a year ago my nagging lower back soreness turned into horrible sciatic pain. So much so I couldn't even sit in the Miata, let alone drive it. I went under the knife over the winter and fortunately the pain is gone, but it's been a long recovery process.
After seeing all the great pics from Miatapolooza, some beautiful Cali roadsters out and about in Jazz's build thread (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?5627-Jazz/page15), and Woolery's feature in Automobile mag (http://www.automobilemag.com/news/vintage-inspired-1990-mazda-miata-seriously-special/?wc_mid=4035:6086&wc_rid=4035:766891&_wcsid=3C24BD87CED61E6049A2CEA4995F6721048C7CFB3AD D95BC) and One Take, I've really been inspired to get back at it.
I figured something easy to get me back into the mood was a couple of easy interior bits. I found a m2-1028 tombstone to match the center console I already had so it was time to swap out the Nakamae. It came with the genuine m2 ebrake boot which is still in pretty good shape, like the shifter boot; amazing for 23 year old leather. Revlimiter T56 shift plate on there to mimic the 1028 shift plate. It was also a good time to put in the RS hazard switch I've had laying around.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48863982828_5b701a1331_k.jpg
Looking at that pic makes me realize I need a RS climate control plate also. I haven't been one for much interior detail, but I think that's going to be necessary. Of course a plate to mount the window switch and some switches for the Stack dash is in order as well.
I picked up a few other things while i was laid up in recovery for weeks with not much else to do besides shop online so I'll start to get around to those. I also need to make room for some of this new stuff so things like the Nakamae, a Nielex hazard switch and another 1028 carpet center console will be going up in the classifieds shortly.
There are a few more pressing things that I'd like to get to first, but I'm a wheel whore at heart.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48863982718_f64eb101f6_k.jpg
oldgrayleather
05-05-2017, 10:40 AM
Glad you've recovered and are back at/in your Miata!
A couple months ago I decided to get back to work on the car and make a few changes. While on injured reserve I managed to pick up some new wheels through my constant auction hunting, so it was time to unbox them.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4053/34936974623_cbcf9eb72e_b.jpg
4x100 negative offset holy trinity? The mesh obviously need some work. I bought them as a refurb project, as shown at the end of the last post. I'm not really even a big mesh fan. Unfortunately I didn't have the trio for long. Since I had suitable replacements, I sent the Star Sharks off to a new, loving home, as hard as the decision was. When I found them they were the first set mainland (in the US aside from Rod's in HI), but the 14s don't work with the V8 and I'm never going to get around to another build, so I might as well progress and let someone else enjoy them.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/36427577382_ca02f8f54a_b.jpg
There is also now quite a selection of 245/40/15 tires that I've been patiently waiting for. The widest in this pic are the old Yoko slicks in the back (actually 250/580/15), then the Hoosier R80 slicks, which was to be expected. As for the street tires, the Maxxis VR1 are the widest, then the Hankook RS4 and the BFG Rival-S were the narrowest (but also the fastest).
Why 3 sets of street tires? I found another set that I always had my eye on, even though I'm really an SSR fanboy.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36427575612_9c256eb2fe_b.jpg
Since the FM are going to take a while to finish, I started with these 2 sets. Today I finally had some time so I loaded up my truck and got them mounted by the great guys at Auto Innovations in Milpitas.
The Mk3 are probably my all time favorite, so I started with those.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/36427574192_7a944eee8e_b.jpg
15x9 et 0 up front and x10 -12 out back, thanks to Pine Engineering in NZ. Maybe one day I'll luck upon some original 10J 4x100, but I haven't in the 15 years I've been looking so far. Once I get my new coolant tank installed I'll pull it out for some new beauty shots.
bogaut
08-15-2017, 07:30 PM
nice updates! i just sent my mk3 off to be refinished, they are original 15x9 -10. gonna run those with n2 flares in my new c spec build! we can be mk3 n2 bros
9J -10 will fit the N2s pretty nicely :cheers:
kung fu jesus
08-15-2017, 08:53 PM
Very cool. I'm an SSR fanboy too. :)
fwdtamiya
08-17-2017, 08:37 PM
Wow!
Time for that yearly rush to get a few things done before Miatas @ MRLS. The most important is a charging problem I've had from the beginning. I thought it was just hot starts but after enough drain from the huge fans and larger fuel pump it was apparent that there wasnt enough juice. Alternator wiring can be a bit tricky with LSx swaps but my alt checked out to be working fine. I'm using a Westco battery which is a bit small but others have been using similar ~320 cca batteries. So that led me to the cables.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/37418726852_332c73ebc3_b.jpg
Now that's a ground cable. Stock size is ~8 AWG and not up to task for the increased loads. I decided to upgrade both postive and ground while I was at it. 1 AWG would probably be sufficient but I found some 2/0 welding cable for a good price, so that's what I went with. Overkill, definitely. This stuff is heavy so i probably gained 15 lbs, luckily I have the power to not worry about it :lol: So far it seems to have done the trick. Hot starts are still a bit sluggish but its turned over every time since.
I originally only had track time for Sunday (woke up late for registration) but just found a Saturday spot so I'll get a full weekend in :8):
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/37619393562_20787c3c94_b.jpg
One of the very few pics I got from MRLS 2017. It seems like I'm jinxed when it comes to the track, but racing is due to break things, especially when you build them in your garage.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/37618566612_91fa8003ab_b.jpg
This years issue was overheating. During the 2nd session on Saturday my water temp got up to 245F which sends the car into limp mode. When I got back to the paddock I found the cause.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37618621562_ea8c25bcdb_b.jpg
Not much of a belt left to turn the water pump :shock:
I called around and found a local Autozone that actually had the belt in stock so in an hour I was back in business. Unfortunately it didnt help and I overheated again when I went back out in session 4. I called it a day at that point and would try again in the morning.
First thing in the morning I went out to get gas and on the way back, it overheated again. Either due to an air pocket that I couldn't burp or damage to the water pump from the belt, I had very little if any output from the pump. After more starring in the engine bay I came across the cause of the belt slip.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/37618619552_79b8e4c87b_b.jpg
The alternator pulley pushed up into the sway bar. I talked to FM and they said they like to have about 3/8" clearance which is about double what I have. They said they weld in their sway bar brackets to get the necessary clearance, so I'll have to look into that if I there isn't enough play in the bushing brackets. My track time was finished for the weekend. I got in 1 session out of 10.
But all was not lost. It was still a good weekend. The weather was fantastic and I met up with some of the nicest roadsters and owners in the country. fwdtamiya, oldgrayleather, JonB, speedypenguin, and bogaut just to name a few were all to be found within 50 yards of me in the paddock. That's quite a collection.
I guess I better get started for next year at the rate I work.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37618565382_80836192b3_b.jpg
HarryB
10-12-2017, 09:28 AM
Car looks great! Other than that, wondering if stiffer engine mounts would cure your issue
oldgrayleather
10-12-2017, 11:03 AM
Druz, so great to finally meet you, the missus and that amazing Orange beast!
Phatmiata
10-12-2017, 11:41 AM
wow it ate through the metal!! :shock:
Wish I could have came out there to meet everyone in person, maybe sometime in the future.
The car looks amazing all put together now!! Love it all!!
I managed to get a few laps of video, here's a leisurely stroll around the back half of Laguna Seca. Unfortunately the sound isnt very good.
https://youtu.be/Mj0OfDmQQlM
I was giving plenty of space to the white NA since this was like lap 3 of the weekend. He was good enough to be paying attention and let me by. I got up to around 110 at the crest of turn 1, which is a bit unnerving without any front aero.
I tried out my Meister/Rival-S combo for my failed 4th session and decided to keep them on for the ride home. I think I'll keep them as my track wheels, even though they are my narrowest set at 8.5/9 wide. They look so at home at the track, and they are R-disc so lots of brake clearance.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37618616582_42094696d2_b.jpg
Where does the time go? I'm my case, slowly trying to figure out my continual overheating ever since MRLS. I swapped out the water pump, tested the tstat, and burped too many times. Fearing a head gasket leak, although it didn't sound like it, I bought an Airlift vacuum coolant refill tool. I would be able to detect a leak while pulling vacuum and if that checked out, then hopefully I could refill without any air pockets. That has finally seemed to cure my problem. I must have had air trapped somewhere that I couldn't burp out. At MRLS I also damaged the lower mount for my fan shroud, probably getting on the trailer, so that's next to repair.
I also have to rewind a bit to the build up to MRLS. One of the things that needed a little attention was the interior. I had parts boxed away so it was time to get them out.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/37619079842_a0e4618961_b.jpg
M2-1028 tombstone, console, boots; RS Products AC panel and knobs; Nakamae door handles; Nielex door cups; matching passenger RS Ltd kevlar Recaro; Takata belts; diy carbon door and radio panels. They paired up with the Stack gauges, Nardi deep corn, Joyfast knob and driver's Recaro that were already there.
Finally, as much of a headache MRLS was this year with the problems, it was all made worth it when the latest issue of Roadster Bros. arrived.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/39433580394_a4313e3b8a.jpg
I knew there was going to be a chance, but I didn't really think it could happen.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4695/26271769928_f46c72e007_b.jpg
I started reading (really looking and drooling) Option, Option 2 and Auto Fashion almost 25 years ago. When I bought a Miata, I studied the Road&Ster and HyperRev bibles. Although this is just a small blurb, it's kind of unbelievable.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4659/40112528042_39443fcb83_b.jpg
It's interesting that they gave the wing so much attention, over say the interior, but I guess they love big wings over there :lol: Too bad I didn't have the YSCC ducktail on, the wing only comes out at the track.
A big thanks to oldgrayleather for giving me the heads up about the issue, as well as congrats to he and Bogaut for their half page hits. I also spied a pic of speedypenguin's Jazz on pg 22 :8):
It seems like I only update 2 or 3 times a year now. Fortunately there wasn’t much that needed to be done. It’s been running pretty good during the very little time I drive on the street, so everything else is track oriented. Without being to fit any other track days on my calendar this year, that meant the usual scramble just before Miatas @ Laguna Seca. I got a little smarter this year and once September came around, I started to prep. I guess I should have tried to do a few updates then, but I didn’t do a very good job of documenting.
The problem with the sway bar was easily solved by moving the bar forward a few mm by slotting the bracket holes a bit. Also on the list was a front splitter to balance out the APR wing on the track. Some ½” plywood and aluminum brackets were easy enough to fab up. I’m not entirely happy with how they performed though. Hard turns allowed the ends to rub which apparently caused the mounts to bend a tad, leaving it unlevel and pointing up, so I’ll be revisiting it this winter. The most important thing I wanted to get done before going back to the track was brakes.
I’ve had a set of radial Wilwood Dynapros in a box for a few years. I bought these before the days where they were available off the shelf, so they’ve waiting for some adapters to be fabbed to convert the brackets that were made for a Mini. It’s simple enough, just a few spacers, but last year I ran out of time and had to stay with my FM Powerlite kit. As you can imagine, not a great idea with 400+hp. During the 1 good session I had last year at Laguna, they were cooked by the last lap. So this year I had to make sure to get the upgrade done, I mean I sold my beloved Star Sharks to be able to fit them. However, my new Mk3s are not exactly known as being big brake friendly. With the extra spacers needed with the kit I had, it was even worse. After messing with every brake kit template I could find, I decided to take the plunge and go with the V8 Roadsters Stoptech 11.75 kit. Fitment was slightly better than I was going to have to deal with but of course not as easy as the 11” kit or lug mount Dynapros, but I figure I might as well. While in there, some Singular 2.5” ducts were in order also.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/44019971745_d1fa6fcb43_o.jpg
I didn’t decide until Labor Day what kit to use. I placed my order with V8R figuring 7-10 days would still give me plently of time to get them installed.
So I had a week to get a few other things done. I picked up a set of Singular hood vents when I got the brake ducts. As you could imagine, 6 liters creates a lot of heat on track. I whipped out the cutting wheel and rivet gun and got that taken care of. What I found was that after cutting the necessary hood bracing, along with the bracing that was already removed to fit the LS7 air box, is that my hood is a bit floppy now. It’s causing the outside edges to pop up and not be flush with the fenders or lights anymore. That, combined with the track focused look of the vents, has me on the hunt for a hood with a more suitable street look.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1935/44830268172_3fe3294407_k.jpg
Something else I’ve been meaning to get to but could never find the time was the trunk. I finally scored a Yours Sport ducktail trunk a few years ago and it’s been in storage since. There’s just something about this one that l checks all the right boxes, especially with the flares. Not too big, not too small, not too square, not too round. Perfect.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1928/43068937700_7431e73baa_k.jpg
I got a package from V8R in a week, but the calipers were being drop shipped from Stoptech and I hadn’t heard anything from them yet. Of course with this build being a comedy of errors and misfortunes, it wasn't going to be easy. If you watch any of the car shows on Velocity or Discovery, there’s always some kind of deadline and then drama because of something, and it all seems so made up. But in my life, it's so real. It’s Wednesday before MRLS and still no word so I figured I better get back on the Dynapros as back up. I start mocking them up again and getting measurements for the spacers. I find the 1” 6061 rod I bought over a year ago and get ready to turn some metal when low and behold, Fedex arrives with a package from Socal. Now that I’ve wasted half the day getting ready for plan B, plan A is back on. It’s a very simple bolt on affair so off come the Dynapros and on the V8R adapters and Stoptech ST42 calipers. And then…
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1966/44198851294_a3546eada0_k.jpg
The mounting screws are too short! :fp: This could only happen on this build. And of course, they are M10-1.25 socket cap screws, which are not standard hardware store fare I soon found out. It’s Wednesday night and I’m planning on leaving Friday afternoon, it’s just like on TV! After finding out that the one metric hardware specialist in the Bay Area closed down (Mr. Metric) and the other place that usually has hard to get stuff doesn’t carry these either, I finally came upon some luck and found out that Fastenal should have them and there’s a few stores in the area now. Their handy online catalog and inventory search tool says that the Santa Clara store (~10 miles away) has the 50mm long screws I need and they open at 7:30am. The rest of the night I decided to finish up the spacers for the Dynapros, just in case. I’m cranking away and about half way done when the belt gives out, sigh. Maybe my luck isn’t turning around. :cry2:
7:30am Thursday and I’m scouring the racks at Fastenal, which is pretty cool if you’ve never been. For some reason I figured they were a B2B wholesale place, and while they definitely specialize in that, they do retail too. I’m not seeing any metric fine thread though. I ask for the part number I found online and find out they only have 2, I need 4 :cry: The employees were extremely helpful though and look through their inventory system and they find 61 of them in San Carlos. That’s about 20 more miles and in morning traffic over an hour away, but I don’t have much choice though so I’m the way. And then …
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/44006435775_261feaba97_b.jpg
I make it about half way and this thing smashes into my family mobile. Fortunately no one is hurt, but now I’m on the side of freeway for over an hour dealing with this. Luckily my wife is able to pick me up but since I’m pretty sure our Honda Pilot is totaled (I got pushed into another car also), we waste more time going to the tow yard to remove what we can from it. Another hour later and we’re finally in San Carlos. Again scouring the racks at Fastenal and not seeing any metric fine thread socket caps. I ask the guy and he goes in the back and pulls out a bag of 61. Praise the lord! Maybe I can get back to work now. Except I have to pick up a rental car and talk to various insurance people. All in all I wasted over 6 hours. I should have been back home by 8 and It’s after 2pm.
Bolting the calipers on only takes a few minutes since I already assembled the rotors and finally putting on the M-Tuned rear sport rotor kit another 30 minutes. But while waiting for the kit to come in, I decided the Wilwood 1” master cylinder would probably be a good idea also, as well as installing the proportioning valve finally. However I didn’t want to install them until everything was in. Knowing my luck something would be backordered and then I’m trying to run a 1” master on calipers too small. I didn’t plan on doing this Thursday night though and doing a complete brake overhaul the day before leaving to a track event is probably not a good idea. Fast forward and I’ve bled everything twice and still no brake pressure. I find a small leak in the T fitting for the fronts but they’re tight so I pull everything apart. I find that while the LF line was sitting in the engine bay, it ate away at the paint and a small chip stuck to the end of the flare. 1am and it’s time to bed the Hawk DTC-60 pads. Those would have been some good pics with the shower of sparks, but it was way too late and way too long of a day. Finally cleaned up by 330am.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1948/31007719098_9292f0ff80_k.jpg
HarryB
09-26-2018, 02:22 PM
Well...that was eventful!
Phatmiata
09-26-2018, 03:02 PM
wow yeah all the crap happening in the wrong ways at the same time, that reminds me of miatapalooza, folks that committed to help and then dropped out last minute, oh and the security guards wont let the vendors in the gates without me being present, and the folks with the portlet toilets cant make it until noon, and im 45 minutes away from the location, had to race over there and ended up with a split gasket and mad oil leak, with a buttload of bugs covering my car because I was driving before sunrise, and embarrassed to open the hood from the newly discovered pitched gasket causing the oil leak, the miata looked like crap that day, i was super stressed out, getting pulled from every direction, and cell phone was blowing up with calls. Did I mention the police chewing me out because we had a solid 2 or 3 miles of bumper to bumper miatas blocking a major roadway from the stadium to the highway? hahahah, So yes the drama and stress from big events is for real and quite a few on here can relate.
So those Bigger brakes fit with your wheels okay? you are on 15" now correct?
I planned on leaving at around 2pm for Monterey after picking up the trailer, loading and packing. It’s usually a 1.5 hour drive at tow speeds and then about 30 mins to unload the trailer. That leaves plenty of time for the BBQ/car show/registration/etc. Actually leaving at 3:45 meant a 2:15 drive because of traffic. We missed the BBQ but caught registration before they closed at 7. At least we made it. I was able to bump into some old and new friends at happy hour but had to call it an early night.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/31007720548_a918870297_o.jpg
Track gates open at 7 so the day starts bright and early. Seeing a sight like this first thing tells you it’s going to be a good day :8): Getting into track mode involves putting on the splitter, rear wing and Work S1 Meisters with 245 Rival-S. The first session was full of traffic. The second was better and all seemed to be running well. The third session I finally got a relatively clear lap.
https://youtu.be/yjfaz4JjnIE
Hit 122 mph but still lifted at the top of the crest on the straight. The front felt better with the splitter, but I’m going so much faster than most of the cars I can’t get over the fear of someone sitting on the other side at 80mph or braking early for the hairpin. Obviously tons to time left in the corners. I forgot to stiffen the Xidas so the splitter was dragging in 6 and corkscrew where there’s a good bit of compression but otherwise I was happy about the balance.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1979/44881041841_d683742b8e_o.jpg
Session 4 Willywongka strapped on the Takatas and went for a ride. 5 or so laps in, the brakes started to act up and we had a slight off in 4. It didn’t seem to be clearing up after another lap taking it easy so we brought it in a lap or 2 short. It looks like the wheel weights in the RF came loose and that was either stuck or rattling around. There was only 1 more session so I went out to test the brakes again and they seemed to be good but on the 2nd lap going up the hill after turn 5 the engine started to stumble and miss. Time to call it a day. It was a pretty good track day though.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1901/44881041471_c4353b7cbd_o.jpg
The only other problem that was nagging all day was I was blowing the Meter fuse. I’m using the stock wiring for the Stack gauges and apparently it’s drawing a lot more power. But I went up to a 25A and it still blew, so it needs more of a look. After letting the car cool down I wanted to log in the ECU to see if I could find anything obvious. Now it wouldn’t start. I’m fearing the worst, but my wife (and fantastic pit crew) asks if I have any gas. Well, since the gauges aren’t working I haven't been paying attention. Also, since I’ve never actually gotten 4 sessions in during the last 4 years, I’m not sure what kind of mileage I get on the track. But it completely makes sense. I borrow a fuel jug from my paddock neighbors (thanks Fred and Mike!) and pay $18 for 3 gallons of 93 octane from the track pumps. Of course my wife is right and all is well again.
This is the first year I planned on going to the track side dinner. It was a pretty nice spread and finally had some time to catch up with some of the KINOD crew, fwdtamiya, oldgrayleather, JonB and friends. That goes by pretty quickly and we reconvene at the hotel bar with the likes of Bogaut and his crew from the PNW. After being asked to leave the bar we spent the rest of the evening in the lounge area. Good times had by all.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1846/44029224294_aecc983146_o.jpg
After waking up late on Sunday, back at the track to relax and stroll around. Being on track is very time consuming and doesn’t allow for much time to check out the sites. There’s way less cars around but I still managed to get a few good pics. It's not too often you’ll get a pic and 2 out of the 3 cars will have RS Aizawa bumpers, RS Limited Recaro seats, and M2 mirrors. Let alone the OEM side skirts, Mazdaspeed hardtop or YSCC trunk lid. Next year we’ll have to fit in a Saturday pic to make sure everyone gets in. Hopefully speedypenguin and Bo will have their beautiful NA’s back in attendance as well. It’s the 30th anniversary, gotta do it right. This year was an absolute blast. The car ran relatively well and hanging out with great people, not just great Miata people but genuinely great people. Being in the Miatas for so long it shouldn't be a surprise to me, but it's still great to experience. Til next year.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1930/31007718618_18ee71313a_o.jpg
wow yeah all the crap happening in the wrong ways at the same time, that reminds me of miatapalooza, folks that committed to help and then dropped out last minute, oh and the security guards wont let the vendors in the gates without me being present, and the folks with the portlet toilets cant make it until noon, and im 45 minutes away from the location, had to race over there and ended up with a split gasket and mad oil leak, with a buttload of bugs covering my car because I was driving before sunrise, and embarrassed to open the hood from the newly discovered pitched gasket causing the oil leak, the miata looked like crap that day, i was super stressed out, getting pulled from every direction, and cell phone was blowing up with calls. Did I mention the police chewing me out because we had a solid 2 or 3 miles of bumper to bumper miatas blocking a major roadway from the stadium to the highway? hahahah, So yes the drama and stress from big events is for real and quite a few on here can relate.
So those Bigger brakes fit with your wheels okay? you are on 15" now correct?
I can only imagine organizing something of that magnitude. I can barely get it together enough to attend :lol:
245/40/15 tires on all my wheels. The Meisters with R disc still need 15mm spacers. The Mk3 need another 7mm. Not ideal but it still works.
CLZinn2
09-26-2018, 09:12 PM
Reply to Phat's comment running about events. My wife doesn't want me to even joining any Miata clubs!!! I was the President. Treasurer and News Letter Editor for our local AMC car club. We held a National Event in 1994 that involved 4 National Clubs it was an OUTSTANDING EVENT, but the planning started 4 years prior and I can't begin to tell you of all the hardship. I'm going to be an Indian and NOT a Chief. Far to many arrows flying at the Chief!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CLZinn2
09-26-2018, 09:48 PM
A TON OF WORK!!! NEAT Car!!! I'd so would LOVE to drive that track. It Must be Amazing!!! Thank You So Very Much for all your work with this thread!!!
oldgrayleather
09-28-2018, 01:09 AM
It seems like I only update 2 or 3 times a year now.
When your updates share these great stories with all of MR.net in such detail you can absolutely be excused! So glad you made it despite all the hurdles you had to get through. Love re-hearing these stories through the post. Don't know why I didn't clamor for it but next year would love a ride-a-long!
I’m fearing the worst, but my wife (and fantastic pit crew) asks if I have any gas. Of course my wife is right and all is well again.
So great that V is part of this pilgrimage and that you're a wise enough to man-up and acknowledge when your better half might be right! Hopefully she doesn't read the forums and let this go to her head ;)
I sent the Star Sharks off to a new, loving home, as hard as the decision was. When I found them they were the first set mainland (in the US aside from Rod's in HI), but the 14s don't work with the V8 and I'm never going to get around to another build, so I might as well progress and let someone else enjoy them.
Now about those wheel and their loving home?!?!
Again Drew, never enough time to connect but so great to see you at Laguna Seca. Glad you're already preparing for a big 30th!!
Don't know why I didn't clamor for it but next year would love a ride-a-long!
I'll reserve a session for you next year. As part of your planning if you and the crew need anything, I'll be glad to help out as your Norcal host.
I believe this is a new record with almost 10 months between updates. The sad fact is there really hasn't been much to update. Usually I'll try to find winter project or 2 but my motivation was extremely low. I was going through a little state of burnout. I put so much into the car but really wasn't getting much joy from it any more, so why put more work in? It felt like it was too much to drive on the street and worrying about something happening or all the attention it draws. Getting out to the track is a bit of an ordeal. I couldn't even get up for a nice cruise through the hills for it's 30th birthday. But just like experiencing burnout with anything, I needed to reevaluate what was going on and get my head straight.
One thing that I enjoy is making something or learning something new. So I finally convinced myself to get in the garage and work on a wheel rack that I've been wanting to build for a couple years to clean up my storage area. I taught myself to weld a while ago and messed around with aluminum a little, but not much as it's not as forgiving as steel to a beginner. I had a bunch of aluminum square tubing left over from a different project that never got off the ground, so I spent a few hours practicing and then went at it. Fortunately, it wasn't a miserable failure! I've got a long way to go with the welds, but it's progress. 2 birds, 1 stone - learned and created.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48263634931_335b6c8233_k.jpg
Now, let's get back to the car. Near the top of my to do list was replacing the LS2 rocker arm trunnions. The stock ones aren't up to track abuse and could result in the engine swallowing a bunch of needle bearings since the factory ones are not caged. I decided to go with the Smith Bros bronze bushing kit. Fairly easy job with a press. You can see some of the old needle bearings that simply fell out while removing the old trunnions.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48263642046_4c885bfa9b_k.jpg
While I had the fuel rail covers off, I thought I could quickly install the catch can I had, just to cross it off the list. I bought a Moroso kit, but of course almost nothing from a kit is going to work. The mount was no where near what it looked like in the pictures.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48263634801_78ac0c16c2_k.jpg
The engine barely clears the hood, this was not even close to fitting. Luckily after a bend, a couple cuts and 2 new holes, it looked like it was designed to go there.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48263710037_60158071c0_k.jpg
I'm starting to get a little momentum now, but still haven't gone for a drive. I just need to get out there and have some fun.
tsingson
07-12-2019, 07:59 AM
Just drive it man. Norcal has some really nice roads out there. Get lost. One road I loved driving when I lived there was out near Napa/Lake Berryesa. Pretty windy and scenery is gorgeous. When I worked in Napa, I would just take that road home to avoid the Friday nightmare traffic on 80. I bet once you start driving and just wandering anywhere, the motivation will come back.
oldgrayleather
07-12-2019, 08:56 AM
Nice update and love the rack!! Besides being an impressive DIY project it gave me something to show Mrs. R that I hoped would make her appreciate the fact I don’t really have too many extra sets of wheels or tires sitting around. I mean, it might be smart for Benny to have a spare set, right? For some reason pointing out the number of shoes in her closet vs the two feet she has as of yet has not been effective. [emoji2369]
bogaut
07-12-2019, 10:35 AM
you have some nice spare wheels!
We do have really nice roads around here, and some very close to me. Unfortunately lots of them have to been taken over by bicycles. I figured a 95F afternoon would be a good time to avoid them and got in a spirit refreshing drive. Besides the fact that I don't have AC or any carpet / heat shielding in the cabin. Big V8 makes lots of heat.
When I decided to go with the LS, the vision was to build a raw and visceral monster, not hard to do with 400 torques and 2200ish lbs, no carpet, AC, PS, ABS, or TC. With that goal achieved, I've moved on to refinement. I think it's mostly that I'm getting old(er). Or maybe I'm just looking for a change. I've finished the interior a bit with the M2 console, RS AC panel and knobs, Zoom Monaco mirror, etc.
That brings me to the next project. Driving on the street without power steering is a hassle. Even getting out of my steeper than average driveway at the end of a cul de sac requires going lock to lock a couple times :? So ... much ... work ... so lazy. Fortunately now I can theoretically have the best of both worlds, power assist when I want and raw road feel and feedback when I don't.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48648067752_3860a7f808_k.jpg
It all works around more GM parts, an electric power steering rack from a 02-06 Saturn Vue or 05-06 Chevy Equinox, and a controller/knob that can vary the amount of assist on the fly from 0-100%. There is a company selling bolt in units, but it doesn't appear that difficult to fabricate, for about 25% of the price.
Agent☣Orange
08-30-2019, 08:55 PM
You had me at raw and visceral monster.
This post will be a little more detailed than usual since I haven't really seen very many going over this electric power steering set up. I saw it for the first time earlier this year for sale as a plug and play unit. Since I was already thinking about adding PS to my LS2, I figured this might be an easier way, instead of having to add the pump, reservoir, associated lines and adapters, and new belt. I found this one post here (https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123861997-NA-Miata-Electric-Power-Steering) that described most of the procedure. So I ordered a few parts and got to cutting.
These GM EPAS columns are apparently popular with side by sides like RZRs and also with sand rails. They are able to be controlled outside of the ECU by a little adapter available from epowersteering.com. What makes it also easy to adapt to the Miata is they use the same 3/4" shaft and are roughly close to the same length.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48763688488_5458e00b82_k.jpg
My measuring set up showed that the GM unit is almost 3" shorter. Since the output splines are also different, we can make up that 3" with an adapter to the Miata spline. To do so I used this coupler (http://www.epowersteering.com/purchase/product/16-5mm-36-to-34-smooth-coupler) 16.5mm-34 (GM spline) to 3/4" (Miata shaft size) and cut off the end of a Miata output shaft.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764201742_6e8db9017d_k.jpg
The coupler is 1" deep and minus it's length, I figured I needed 2.75" of the Miata shaft. Then I TIG welded them together.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48763689143_14002d42ba_k.jpg
That takes care of the length and spline issues, now to get it mounted.
HarryB
09-20-2019, 07:44 AM
I would also get a pin/bolt through both pieces, just for peace of mind if the weld cracks at any point (although it looks really proper)
The upper mount for the GM unit is pretty similar to the Miata as well. The holes are about 1" wider and 0.5" closer to the steering wheel. I could fab an adapter of sorts like the build I was referencing, but it also seemed like I could swap over the Miata parts since the tubing was about the same size as well. I didn't need or want all the tilt hardware on the GM part either.
The GM input tube unbolts from the motor unit exposing a 2 piece input shaft. The Miata column is sleeved so I had to cut it just above the part smaller tube ends.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764201917_be0a3e9247_k.jpg
The GM upper shaft almost fit in the Miata tube. A little persuasion with a vice turned the oval back into a circle and the shaft was able to slip in
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764013901_b6e1a054f6_k.jpg
After a couple of measurements I determined how much of the GM tube I needed to add. Sorry, I forgot to note it down.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764014001_854d6a238f_k.jpg
Then I welded the 2 pieces together. After checking the fit I realized I had a problem. My original plan was to use the GM upper and the measurements were based on that. However I ended up using the Miata upper and there was a 0.5" difference between them. My adapter was now 0.5" too short. So I cut out the weld and made the adjustment. Thankfully I used the full 1" available in the coupler so I had an extra 0.5" available.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764014356_4194f22c1b_k.jpg
Ready for reassembly.
I would also get a pin/bolt through both pieces, just for peace of mind if the weld cracks at any point (although it looks really proper)
Definitely. After the final mock up to make sure the new adapter length was correct, I drilled and tapped it since I don't have any press fit pins.
A couple of things I forgot to mention about using the Miata upper tube. That also allowed me to clock the motor to anywhere I wanted it. Using the GM tube I would have only 3 positions to choose from. I ended up putting it in about the 4 o'clock positon. It still slightly rubs against the HVAC housing box and peaks out from under the dash a tiny bit, but I thought fit the best. Also, the GM tube is slightly larger, maybe 1mm, but the bracket for the ignition cylinder and clock spring would have required some work to make it fit nicely with the larger tube. Now it bolts up like factory.
The last pic above also shows the firewall mount cut down where it could fit nicely over the end of the shaft. Then I hit them with some satin black paint and reassembled it. Last thing was to swap over the ignition, stalks and clock spring.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48764013806_06b6ad981e_k.jpg
The bracket is held on by some tamper resistant screws that look kind of like rivets. They're screws though, so just cut a slot into them and drive them out. Transfer everything over to the proper place and voila, a hybrid Miata EPAS column.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48763688818_15aea980e4_k.jpg
Installing it will probably be more work than building it :roll: It's pretty heavy with the motor and squirming around under the dash with the pedals in the way isn't going to be fun. Wiring is very simple though, so I'm almost ready to test it out.
An unexpected bonus, the GM steering input shaft is the same size and spline as the Miata as well so I can keep my Momo hub.
Wiring is simple, just power and ground, and the controller plugs into the EPAS "ECU." The motor power is high current. The instructions recommend a 50 or 60A fuse. Mine came with the factory wiring which already had an 80A fuse inline. As such it needs direct power. Since I previously relocated my fuse box to the glovebox area, I connected it to the incoming +12v. The controller needs switched +12v so I used the unused radio wiring for that. Then I installed the adjuster knob in my switch plate. Looks just it did before with the stock steering.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48795793938_3ee394392a_k.jpg
I haven't done a road test (more on that coming), but in the garage it works. The only unexpected thing is that it takes about 5 seconds for it to switch off after turning the knob down. Not a problem for me, but thought it would react a little quicker.
HarryB
09-26-2019, 06:29 AM
Nice and tidy!
While waiting for some of the EPAS parts to arrive I started going over the car for tech inspection for the upcoming Miata Reunion at Laguna Seca. I noticed a large amount of grease coming from the inner CVs.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48805690906_ddb30be9a3_k.jpg
This is not the first time I've noticed it. It can't find any damage to the boots but since it seems to be persisting, I'm going to assume that it's leaking out as it liquifies due to it's proximity to the exhaust. They've lost a good amount grease so I'm going to need to replace it. If my theory is correct, hopefully using a higher temp grease will help the issue.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48805690656_90e4ba861d_k.jpg
After removing the axles, the first step is cleaning out all the old grease. Here's the inside of a CV if you've never seen one.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48805338473_4bb9b7a4d6_k.jpg
I had some Amsoil grease leftover from repacking my front wheel bearings, so might as well use that. If this stuff breaks down, them I'll have to look into making some kind of heatshields.
HarryB
09-29-2019, 08:23 AM
I HATE that job. Old grease smells nasty.
After repacking the CVs, I was able to finish the steering project. Then I went back to reinstall the axles. Apparently sometime in between I pressed the brakes a few times, probably while trying to get the steering column in, and that resulted in the brake calipers not wanting to fit over the rotors without retracting the piston a bit. Unfortunately the right side wasn't cooperating.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48851850581_07c78083db_k.jpg
That would explain it. This little guy is the "hex screw" that many call it, which is turned to move the rear piston. The seals were looking about ready for a rebuild anyway, but I didn't really have time so I just ordered a refurbed one. That's why I couldn't get out to test the new steering on the road. Once the new caliper was in and bled, it was time for a test.
Even at the lowest setting, it feels a bit over boosted, but maybe I'm too used to the manual feel by now. However I really only want to use it while parking or other similar low speed maneuvers and then switch it completely off. It does exactly what I want it too :cool:
While I had the car up doing the inspection, I took a couple of minutes to install the GV lip brake duct adapters I picked up earlier this year. I installed the Singular 2.5" ducts last year and was waiting for some proposed GV lip adapters to get produced.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48851850721_b9accb8488_k.jpg
Then I came across these adapters (https://www.etsy.com/listing/599803527/miata-duct-adapter-for-gv-lip-25-3-for?ref=shop_home_active_1&sca=1) since the others seemed to be on terminal hold. I gave them a shot and while not perfect, they look like they'll do the job of helping cool the big 11.75" Stoptechs.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48851850491_5e6cb52e5f_k.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48913205831_9e95f79f86_h.jpg
This was the only picture I took the entire weekend at Miata Reunion. There's so much to see and take in, but it seems the weekend is more about the people than the cars. And that's kind of strange for a kinda anti-social type like myself. Yeah we all love our cars, and driving, but there's lots of places you can get that. A group of people like this is much harder to find, and that's what makes the Reunion special.
After checking in at the track on Friday and snapping that pic, we were off to the hotel to catch up everyone. Even though there weren't any official events at the hotel this year, as long as there's a happy hour there, it's going to be the gathering place. After a few drinks and dinner, it was time to get tested up for the early start in the morning.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48913205776_6384bfd690_k.jpg
Fortunately, there's a few other ways to get pictures while on the track. Things went pretty smoothly, although I wasn't pushing very hard. Not sure why. We did lose 1 of our 5 sessions due to a medical issue in the paddock taking the ambulance away from the track, which was disappointing. I got through traffic pretty well and was able to get some clear track each session. This lap was from the first session, lap 3 or 4 after I got through traffic. Tires and brakes were warmed up but the track was still a bit cold. (Unfortunately I lost my obd data stream to the video, still had gps for speed.)
https://youtu.be/-smLwlRh0Yk
We made the fortuitous decision of skipping the parade lap, which took almost 2 hours it seemed. That caused more sessions to be missed. Luckily it was the A and B groups this time, so all groups had equal amount of track time again. There was a bit of chaos in the paddock after as people were looking for any open space to park.
I had to shoo off a few trying to park right in front my car, and some others tried to park right behind. I saw others go right into spots that had tools and stuff right next to them, unbelievable.
The crowd appeared to subside after a short while. It didn't seem like the 1200+ cars that were said to have registered. After the track time had wrapped up, it was time to head over to the BBQ and car show. That's where everyone must have been the whole time. The line for the BBQ was hundreds and hundreds of people, quite incredible, and ridiculous. We took a quick look around the car show and didn't see much, so we made the decision to head back to the hotel to catch the end of happy hour.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48913412363_963754c1e0_h.jpg
60 drinks in 45 mins by the small group of us that skipped out of the BBQ. Good times. Grabbed some In N Out, went back for a few more drinks with more folks now that the BBQ was over, even better times. Then we finally got shut down.
Sunday was spent relaxing and seeing all the things we missed on Saturday. Then it was time to pack up and say until next time. I consider myself very fortunate for every year I've gotten to experience this. Thanks to everyone that plays a part in these amazing times.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48913206081_3f8d5eafa3_k.jpg
speedypenguin
10-17-2019, 03:14 PM
Hey look, that's me in the last pic! (Had zero chance to catch you on straights, grr...)
Great seeing you this past weekend. 1000% agree with you, the Reunion is about the people who make our community special. Time to start planning another Reunion for the West Coast...
marlonthegreat
10-19-2019, 02:05 AM
great video, was that run under 2 mins.?
That lap was 1:51ish, which isn't saying much. The car should be capable of 1:40 at least and maybe 1:45 with me.
fwdtamiya
10-21-2019, 09:23 AM
That lap was 1:51ish, which isn't saying much. The car should be capable of 1:40 at least and maybe 1:45 with me.
In the last session, when I got my lap timer working, I got just one lap under 2 minutes (1:56) due to traffic. Where did you find all that space? :lol: I don't think I've ever bumped into you on the actual track this year or prior years, maybe if we get something set up to replace our local annual event I'll get to. It was great seeing you as always Andrew, thanks for hanging out with us :D
I think that was the only full clear lap I had, unfortunately it was so early.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48946037918_4fbe8ff524_h.jpg
That's a bit more typical. And it turns into something like this.
https://youtu.be/Ccptfm4rhQc
And then get stuck for half a lap, which builds up space in front. Then when I finally get by I have like half a lap of room. Then catch back up and repeat. Right after the end of that clip is when the above corkscrew pic was taken. I wasn't causing that line, honest! :lol:
Greasemonkey2000
10-24-2019, 05:18 PM
I see Adam and Jon in the pic...oh wait that you in the middle Brian? You got a haircut? Sure wish I could have made it.
Phatmiata
11-11-2019, 01:40 PM
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49033316162_f34fe5c6ac_k.jpg
Thanks! Those are usually the track wheels. 15x8.5 -4 & 15x9 -18 with 245/40/15 BFG Rival-S.
you have 245 on both the fronts and rears?
Yup, 245 all around for these as well as the MK3 which have Hankook RS4s.
Car has been down for a few weeks while my axles are apart so I've been getting a little bored. Been thinking of making a few changes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49326000128_90f47484d2_k.jpg
KGWorks + RS Refine + RS Products + some time with a die grinder since the Refine rings aren't designed for this.
Of course they wouldn't go in without some Revlimiter faces, but I haven't convinced myself to fully commit to designing something.
Greasemonkey2000
01-04-2020, 03:47 PM
Cluster is gorgeous but Road Star DEFINITELY deserves custom Revlimiter gauges!!:slayer:
HarryB
01-04-2020, 05:09 PM
Oh, c'mon now! I had designed/laser cut KG-copy panels just to use with RS Refine and AWD rings specifically, as I did not want to cut my original one; I could send you one! You would still need to transfer all bulbs and odo screen trim into it, but at least you would not be cutting a KG panel up.
On the flip side, the end result looks amazing!
Somehow I didn't see that if you had posted it before. If I had, I probably would have gone that route. I figured they wouldn't want to be separated again anyway so the permanent modification wasn't going to be that bad.
Probably won't see this combo around since how many are going to be nutty enough to do something like cut up a KGWorks panel. :lol:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49336781991_84155f1c88_k.jpg
marlonthegreat
01-06-2020, 07:52 AM
nice work...all blacked out :)
Still waiting on some parts to get the car back on the road. Instead of tackling some useful projects on my list, it seems like I always get distracted and go for something that just catches my mood. I've been wanting to retrim the vinyl door panel tops and the crash pad ever since I made the carbon door panels. I though black Alcantara would soften the carbon look up, but never got around to it. I even removed it from my list (yes I have an actual list of shit to do) since I didn't think I would ever get around to it since there are so many other things that are more productive that need attention. I guess since I've been messing with the interior lately, I just got the urge to finally do it.
The most difficult part of the entire process was getting the crash pad off. I referred to pics from Revlimiter's blog (https://revlimiter.net/blog/2012/09/na6-vintage-dash-install-part-1/) on his crash pad gauge install and went after it with an interior trim tool. After a bit of work prying at it, it came off in mostly 1 piece. Fortunately just some of the plastic backing broke off. Not too big a deal. The vinyl is glued on very well so I decided to just cover the entire thing. In order to ensure good adhesion, I sanded it down with 220 grit. That eliminated any oils or whatever might have been on there plus scuffed it up for the glue to stick.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49454417711_3bd619c950_k.jpg
I went a bit overboard and sanded it pretty much flat, getting rid of almost all the vinyl texture. It felt almost like plastic at this point. I wiped it down with acetone and then used 3M 38808 headliner adhesive to glue down the fabric. It's really sticky stuff! It look 7.5" of material. I repeated the same process for the door panel tops. Since my material wasn't backed, I again just covered the old foam backed vinyl. 9" of material each. I purchased 1 yard so I had a little left over, conveniently just enough to do the A-pillar trim and the top of the windshield frame using the same process.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49454416226_af7390632b_k.jpg
The car is stuck in the garage so the lighting isn't great. More pics soon. It was an easy project that I think made nice change in the feel of the interior.
HarryB
01-28-2020, 07:37 AM
Loving it!
tsingson
01-28-2020, 11:04 AM
Always love reading your updates. Definitely one of my favorite Miata builds all time.
marlonthegreat
02-04-2020, 11:13 PM
always good to look into finer details...very nice
It's finally mobile again so I was able to take it out for a short test drive and get a couple more pics. Inching closer to being "done."
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596037822_f1c768b856_k.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49595289433_badeebb978_k.jpg
I have a couple more very small things lined up for the interior when I get the time. I'm also trying to decide if I want to go forward with the next major overhaul.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49595289373_711eead18d_k.jpg
The reason why the car was down for months. I kind of jumped the gun getting it done because I'm not 100% committed to going through with it. Can you tell what's new?
Back on this gauges thing, but something different. I picked up a set of replica Refine rings to check out the quality. They're actually pretty nice and since they're cnc made, about spot on. Unfortunately they're only made to fit stock or AWD clusters, unless you want to cut up a KG Works like I did for my NB with genuine RS Refine rings. So I went ahead with another little project.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49660977128_b274291121_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49661524951_3bc5fca8aa_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49661518621_68d3be7a3b_h.jpg
My next update will hopefully be for something actually useful.
There hasn't been much to update lately. Thought I might as well post a few recent pics that are already on my IG, just to get something on here.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50444670791_63e5bc3df6_k.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50444851872_740f44627e_k.jpg
I finally decided to get around to the SSR Formula Mesh refurbishing project. The rears are 15x10 -27. They started pretty oxidized so it's taking a good amount of time to clean them up.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50443981138_4f901f0ca1_k.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50444910177_151b2c02b2_k.jpg
But after media blasting the faces and a lot of polishing, they're getting there.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50444853692_29eceaa50c_k.jpg
I think I'm going to go with classic vintage Gold for the faces since I don't have any wheels in that color, but not 100% yet.
A few weeks ago I had the rare opportunity to get out for a drive. I tagged along with Willywongka and a friend for a leisurely, due to traffic, jaunt up Skyline Blvd on a beautiful fall day. After a great pit stop and chat at Alice’s Restaurant, I decided to take the fast way home on the freeway.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616777696_8be967051e_k.jpg
Unfortunately for me, before the drive I forgot to adjust my suspension from the a bit too low ride height it was at, <4" at pinch weld. Any undulations in the road at moderate speeds caused showers of sparks according to the poor E46 behind us on Skyline. I thought it was from my exhaust which shows many scars from over the years. Freeway speeds plus a good sized dip almost caused a catastrophe. Almost immediately after the horrible sound of metal bashing asphalt, smoke started to fill the cockpit. I pulled over, grabbed my fire extinguisher and looked under the car, only to find nothing. Soon the smoke cleared. I was almost certain it was oil, but my oil pressure was holding steady as well. Many years ago, shortly after finishing the engine swap, the oil pan was dented after hitting a large pot hole during some “testing” along some dark, industrial roads. I feared the pan had taken another hit, but maybe I was wrong. I hopped in and started back home, quickly accelerating to get up to freeway speed. Again smoke filled the air, but as soon as I backed out of it, it started to clear up again. As long as I maintained a steady throttle everything seemed fine, so I carried on and limped home 12 miles at 65mph. I pulled into my driveway and shut it off, going into the garage to get my Quickjacks into position to inspect the damage. I came back out to find a slick of oil starting to creep down the driveway, maybe ½ quart at that point plus who knows how much lost during the drive.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616777826_e149d6e96c_k.jpg
Fortunately it’s a 7 quart pan so I quickly pulled in, but being so low, it took a little longer than usual to get the car up and another quart or so made it onto the garage floor.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616889577_2d73d1ed7e_k.jpg
After the long clean up process, I was able to see how much it was going to cost me. It didn’t look horrible so I got onto dropping the pan with hopes of repairing it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616888867_24d34b37fa_k.jpg
But why didn’t I see any oil when I stopped on the side of the freeway, or lose oil pressure? I’m surmising that the trap door baffles in the pan were keeping the oil away from the crack while the engine was on and it was still circulating. Unless the pressure got high enough like during acceleration where it was forced out and onto the exhaust. Once I turned off the engine in the driveway the pan started to fill up and run past the baffles and out the crack. Unfortunately those baffles also made it impossible to fully clean the area around the crack on the inside of the pan which would make welding difficult. I didn’t have much to lose so I hit it with the TIG and while the bead is probably pretty porous due to the contamination, it’s seeming to hold up so far.
HarryB
11-19-2020, 07:13 AM
Yikes! Lucky in terms of timing at least! Can you implement some sort of skid plate?
Willywongka
11-20-2020, 04:46 AM
Though it was great to catch up with you Andrew, I can't help but feel a little responsible for this happening =(. I hope you can get it all patched up so we can go driving again!
Indeed Harry! After reinstalling it, I figured this was a good time to finally make the skid plate I considered after the first time I dented the oil pan. The entire issue is that the V8 pan hangs about 1.5 inches below the subframe. Combined with the fact that the tubular subframe doesn’t leave much area for attachment points for a skid plate left me debating (and procrastinating) the best design. I just decided to go for the simpliest and strongest, which resulted in a large, almost 24in wide, plate so I could tie directly to the subframe and make it as strong as possible. I used ¼” aluminum plate, and left a 1/8” gap to the pan, resulting in a loss of 3/8” more ground clearance. Not ideal, nor pretty, but hopefully gets the job done. I'll probably revisit the design someday.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616778811_ebb9fe030f_k.jpg
Willis, I knew I needed to raise the car a bit after the last drive, I just put it off and then forgot about it :roll: Ready to go again!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616038433_f08182874c_k.jpg
Willywongka
11-21-2020, 04:20 AM
Glad you got it back and operational! Lets roll out again soon!
speedypenguin
11-24-2020, 08:01 PM
Car is looking good. Bummer about the oil pan damage, but glad it’s been sorted. Hope to go driving with you all soon.
CLZinn2
11-26-2020, 02:34 AM
Do you need a gap at all for the skid plate? (the old Jeep oil pans had skid plates welded to the bottom of them) After all you would gain back 1/8th. The plate would still be hitting and not the pan. The other thing would be to modify the pan itself. Probably buy another pan to work with until you get it right and then install that pan? That way you could not only gain back what you have now lost, but shorten the pan up enough to not hit? Just an idea. May be a poor one I don't know. Best of Luck!!!
I left the gap in case of any deflection. It is 1/4" thick but it's also 23" wide at the attachment points. I doubt I'd hit something just right but it's only 1/8". If this ends up not working out then modifying the pan will be the next thing to look at. If I lost ~3/4" that would be about a quart of capacity, still leaving 6 qts. One concern about that is I don't remember if there's enough room to move the pickup any higher.
Thanks Brian, would be great to see you out again!
Also while I had to disconnect the oiling system from the pan to remove it, this was as good a time as any to finally install the Mocal oil cooler I’ve had sitting in a box for years. Finding a good spot for it wasn’t easy due to the large 19 row size but discovered it fit almost perfectly under the radiator support and above a brace I welded in the bumper support to accommodate the intake. A couple of flat brackets could be screwed into some rivnuts in the brace and another for the top of the cooler tied to a factory tapped hole in the rad support.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616040108_2e1863d31c_k.jpg
1/8” flat bar was all I had laying around, so some beefy brackets were made.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616900972_f02dae9157_k.jpg
The only downside was that it had to be mounted upside down to accommodate the fittings. Again, not ideal, but not a big deal. I could have flipped the whole thing over and mounted it below the brace, but I couldn’t find a good way to do the bottom mounts that way. I also like it tucked up out of the mouth and out of harms way while still in direct path of airflow.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50616779111_423a4d9a22_k.jpg
It's not as if I've run out of Miata things to do as I still have a list much longer than I'd like, but coming up on 25 years of Miatas being my tinker toy and over 10 years with the current one, for the past year I've had an ever increasing itch to try something new. The thought has crossed my mind many a time to pick up another Miata and do something different than the current build and stick to what I'm familiar with, and have tons of parts for, but I really felt like diversifying to something actually new.
I decided I wanted a classic. I'm not much of a rotary fan, so that rules out most classic Mazdas. I've never been into Toyotas. 15 years ago I had a neighbor with a Honda S800 coupe and I would see it in the parking garage once in a while. Great looking and so interesting, but most appeared out of my price range, especially the coupes. So that leaves Datsun. But the 240z have skyrocketed in value and Skylines have always been up there. There's always been something about the 510 that I'm not very fond but I'm not sure what it is. That leaves the Roadster, which would make perfect sense. They've started to creep up in value as well and while I love the front end, the rear is only meh. But that was probably going to be what I could fit in the budget.
The tall windshield 68+ was out of the question, it had to be an earlier low one. That eliminated quite a bit of the market. However I noticed earlier ones were usually cheaper than their later counterparts. Good for me since that's what I was looking for. After much searching, I would come across the occasional Honda and I noticed that same trend in them also. The later cars with the bigger engines and more development had more demand. Also, the roadsters were quite a bit less than their much more rare coupe brothers, although compared to the Datsuns any form is pretty rare. I expanded my search a little on the hopes I could get lucky but after some research I learned that their market was quite quirky due to their relative complexity and lack of parts. That tempered my dreams a bit. But Hondas are powered by dreams.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50739783237_3ad8c91ed3_k.jpg
A couple of months ago I finally took the plunge. I never bought a car without seeing it in person, nor had one delivered, but it worked out very well. After waiting a week to get here from Indianapolis, it was a reality.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50739712096_51b16a2fe1_k.jpg
It's not perfect, but that's not what I was looking for. It seems like a solid driver quality with just a few things needed, in the perfect color Ivory over red. It's an early 1964, one of the first few thousand cars Honda ever built, and one of only a couple hundred currently in the states. Built the same year Honda entered its first Formula 1 car.
After a couple of months of ownership I'm only just about to begin, because just like the Miata things always take me 10 times longer than it should, but the first drive was a blast. 606cc of fury, lucky to have 50hp today from its 57hp when new. It's the complete antithesis of my 5967cc 425hp Miata, exactly what I was hoping for.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50738940968_f929864fe2_k.jpg
Roadster7
12-20-2020, 01:41 PM
Odd looking R-2 Limited.
Jokes aside, amazing car. Perfect opposite match to the V8 NA!
Greasemonkey2000
12-20-2020, 04:57 PM
Such a gorgeous Honda! I've always wanted a older Honda as most of mine were 90s-00s, the oldest being a '89(iirc) CRX with a B16A swap. Whats the plan, Andrew?:popcorn:
oldgrayleather
12-21-2020, 01:43 AM
Congrats again D - really looking forward to hearing your first hand account of this new direction!
HarryB
12-21-2020, 02:01 AM
Stunning! I would never imagine these would be more attainable than 240Zs.
Such a gorgeous Honda! I've always wanted a older Honda as most of mine were 90s-00s, the oldest being a '89(iirc) CRX with a B16A swap. Whats the plan, Andrew?:popcorn:
I've used Hondas most of my life for daily drivers. I helped a buddy build a B16 CRX way back in college, but never really modified any of mine. Just something not too boring to commute. But I have an affinity for them. This one will probably stay on the same path, mostly a stock restoration, but nothing too elaborate either. The main goal is to get back some of the backroads driving enjoyment that I don't get out of the Miata anymore. The S600 feels happiest in the 35-55mph zone, whereas the Miata is 75+.
Stunning! I would never imagine these would be more attainable than 240Zs.
A 240 in this condition would probably be in the $30k range around here. Way more supply but also way more demand. The Hondas are not very well known but that's starting to change here now that classic Japanese cars are becoming an actual thing.
MaRcOp01o
12-21-2020, 09:42 AM
Super sick man! I am very happy for you.
You now have the OG S2000.
I started a new thread for S600 adventures https://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?17112-Honda-Roadster
Back to the Miata, kind of. One of the issues I had to figure out with a new toy was storage. My 2 car garage is a typical suburban ~20'x20something' with a 18'×7' door. That's plenty for 2 project cars but my wife likes her parking space too so I'd been investigating creative solutions ever since I started looking for another car. Apparently there's quite a few people just like me and there are a number of "slim" 4 post lifts on the market now that are about 9ft wide. After taking dozens of measurements and researching as many specs as I could find, I finally decided on the Atlas Pro 8000 (after finding out I waited so long that my first choice Atlas 408SL was indefinitely OOS).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50774801816_72188f40e8_k.jpg
After picking it up from the freight terminal, the biggest challenge of the entire installation was getting the 1800lb package off the trailer. Fortunately it could be opened up and moved piece by piece, but it still involved multiple floor jacks, an engine hoist and some furniture dollies to move the biggest one, the runway with all the hydraulics and cables. It must be 600+ lbs based on the weight of all the other parts. And once it was off, I still had to flip it over.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50774914982_24b37cca9c_k.jpg
That's about the only pic of the process, because the rest of it was pretty straight forward. Good thing because the instructions were trash, but at least the parts diagram was helpful. But I actually have a lift in my garage :frantic:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50774800461_81724e6332_k.jpg
I took this with the door open which seriously limits how high I can go, but with it closed I can get it about 70" off the ground. One of the main reasons I went with this lift was that it has a little bit of adjustability in the locking heights. They advertise +/- 2" but it's actually more like half that. Evenso, that allowed me to taylor the height just enough to get it exactly where I needed it to be to fit both cars, which was the whole point of this. Each one has about 1" of clearance which made me a little nervous at first but I'm getting used to it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50774800601_23401afdf2_k.jpg
Now they're both tucked away like yin and yang.
LagBlu
12-29-2020, 08:55 AM
How cool is that - nice solution.
HarryB
12-29-2020, 09:26 AM
And allows you to really work on the cars, so even better!
Back from the dead! Even though it's been over 2 years, there hasn't been a whole lot to update. The car is mostly at a place where it doesn't require constant tinkering. Small updates have continued on IG but this thread deserves some attention too.
One little project I worked on was for the lamps on the Jetstream headlights. They work ok, but the look is a bit generic. I searched for quite a while to find something that would fit in the space as well as fit the look I'm going for. I ended up with the FET M6 dual fog/driving lamps. They have a period look and are similar to the lamps used in the RS Active II or those with the upgraded PIAA 960.
23966
Light output is probably about the same as the lamps they replaced since they use old tech H3 bulbs, albeit at 85w/110w.
23967
Other than that it's been great getting the car out a little more often lately thanks to the Rodosuta Aikoka (https://instagram.com/rodosuta.aikoka?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=) group and their bi monthly meets that have reinvigorated the Bay Area scene.
23968
23969
oldgrayleather
04-24-2023, 02:31 PM
Yay updates!
Yes indeed, Yay updates!! Glad this thread is getting some love!
So great Rodosuta Aikoka has kick started the NorCal meets and thrilled to have been able to join at least once.. so far. Funny to see your car, Willis', Brian's and mine in a row.. especially considering I "met" you all here in the first place before we ever were all at MRLS together.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.