Timing Belt Questions

[MX595]

Since I just purchased a 95 Miata (111k), it is good to know if the belt goes before it comes in the mail, I am not SOL.
I plan to do the water pump as well since it's readily available to change.
I have also ordered new plugs, plug wires, and hosing.

Any other suggestions to keep her running strong?

Thank you

[kung fu jesus]

Cam seals, crank seal, idler pulleys, valve cover gasket, CAS O ring. If you want to go the full Monte, replace all the coolant hoses, too. Especially the heater hoses.

[Rogue]

This Timing Belt Kit has everything you need but coolant.
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/T%7B47%7DBELT%252dW%7B47%7DPUMP-KIT-94%252d00-PS%7B47%7DAC-%28PKMK001%29.html

NGK blues and NGK V-power plugs

[MX595]

did plugs and wires (NGK) and it has made quite a difference, I am waiting for water pump, and necessary pulleys to switch the belt.

I have also decided to get new wheel hubs, wheel bearings, rotors and pads. I have yet to order the hubs, any suggestions on brand/where to buy?

[kung fu jesus]

Timken

[kung fu jesus]

Inspect the rear hub flanges for cracks or heat stress, too.

[Pyr0monk3y]

Timken is hard to find recently, they have discontinued miata front hubs. You can still find them on ebay for crack prices and rock auto still had the ABS version as of last week. Moog hubs are readily available online and I'm pretty sure they used the same NTN bearings as timken. They might even be the same hub, it would be hard to tell without having them next to each other. They are similarly priced to the timken hubs.

A caution on hubs, front and rear. If you ever have to replace a lugstud, be prepared to drill. Any hub made in china is not going to have the same stud knurl diameter as the factory hubs.

[MX595]

thanks for the heads up, I feel a ton of vibration in the rear wheels when at higher speeds, and have checked all the other parts that would be in play, the car has 111k miles, and given the feel from the car, seems like the hub is weak, i'll know for sure in a couple days when i get it on the lift

if anyone has any other suggestions concerning the hubs please lmk

[kung fu jesus]

Link on the rear hub flange issue: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?5814-!!Public-Service-Announcement!!-How-old-are-YOUR-Miata-s-rear-hubs&highlight=failure&p=123409#post123409

Pyro has some great pics on rebuilding the rear hubs in his build thread linked in his signature. I didn't know Timken stopped making them. NTN is good, as is Moog. Stay with a quality, known manufacturer.

I am not sure how experienced you are with these cars, but sometimes the rear hub has been difficult to separate, even with a 40T press. I am mentioning this because because you live in the rust belt.

If you want to make it easier on yourself, Planet Miata sells very nice custom-tailored hub assemblies already build, in the uprights (for the rear) and optional ARP wheel studs. These are excellent pieces and worth a consideration if you feel your time is more important than futzing around with parts mated together for nearly 20 years.

http://www.planet-miata.com/index.php?section=search-category&idn=99

They are also one of our sponsors!

[MX595]

thank you kung-fu Jeses, and yes, the rust belt is exactly why i'm considering changing them, I have limited hands on experience with the miata, I have much more experience with the Mazdaspeed3, luckily I have a close friend who owns a garage which makes access to tools much much easier.

I'm all for supporting the sponsors, and given the condition of the hubs, planet miatas' option seems like my best bet

Thanks again for all the assistance, any other suggestions for maintenance given the mileage of the car (111k), the previous owner wasn't very knowledgeable and just let the dealer do what they told him (ie. the spark plugs were horrific looking when i changed them)

[Pyr0monk3y]

Link on the rear hub flange issue: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?5814-!!Public-Service-Announcement!!-How-old-are-YOUR-Miata-s-rear-hubs&highlight=failure&p=123409#post123409

Pyro has some great pics on rebuilding the rear hubs in his build thread linked in his signature. I didn't know Timken stopped making them. NTN is good, as is Moog. Stay with a quality, known manufacturer.

I am not sure how experienced you are with these cars, but sometimes the rear hub has difficult to separate, even with a 40T press. I am mentioning this because because you live in the rust belt.

If you want to make it easier on yourself, Planet Miata sells very nice custom-tailored hub assemblies already build, in the uprights (for the rear) and optional ARP wheel studs. These are excellent pieces and worth a consideration if you feel your time is more important that futzing around with parts mated together for nearly 20 years.

http://www.planet-miata.com/index.php?section=search-category&idn=99

They are also one of our sponsors!

From someone who has done the job recently, it is worth it to buy the planet miata assemblies. It makes a 5 hour job a 1 hour job. I had all the right tools and it was still a pretty ugly job. When I have to do it again, I will think very seriously about the planet miata assemblies. I can't imagine the nightmare it would be for someone with only basic tools.

Please check out my build thread. It's not a step by step guide, but there's lots of pictures.

[MX595]

your build thread was actually one the the first I read when joining the forum, it is quite detailed and gave me a bit more direction on where I want to go with my car. I will def heed your warning with the hub assemblies, seems like a much simpler option given my situation, thanks again for the input

[MX595]

just got all my pulleys, tensioner, idler, belt, pump, gaskets, and valve gasket in, tmrw it should purr like a walrus when finished

[MX595]

I will load some pics tomorrow, but new pump, pulleys, tensioners and belts were all installed, she is running much cleaner and smoother, got a bit of squeal when I turn it over, gonna assess the situation tmrw, it's a very annoying 8 seconds, and makes me feel like a chump, so I gotta fix it asap

[MX595]

also, any preference on brand for heater/radiator hoses, I would like to replace them next

[kung fu jesus]

Oem or equivalent is fine. Oil leaks degrade the hoses over time and cause them to burst. The heater hoses seem more susceptible. Be aware that the nipples they connect to at the firewall are extremely soft copper, so removing the old ones should be done by slicing them lengthwise there and peeling them off. Use a lubricant to install the new ones in order to preventing damage to the nipples. Maybe water, a drop or two of dish detergent, even a small shot of wd-40.

[JLBMX5]

The shop I took my rear hubs to did not remove my bearings with a press. He used an air hammer and it popped them right out. Then he used a press to put the new ones in. I cant remember price but it was lesss than 40 for both and took him an hour.