Miata Plastic Radiators: The Brown Death

[MX595]

I have a quick question, can someone explain the signs of "brown death" of the radiator? I haven't been able to get a direct answer...also it sounds like the radiator is a bit rattly, I just replaced my timing bet, pulleys, water pump, etc.

[kung fu jesus]

The "brown death" is common to all radiators with plastic tanks. As they age and heat cycle, the color of the plastic end tanks changes from black to a green-brown color, indicating they are becoming brittle and susceptible to cracking and breaking, often with no notice.

If it is rattling, either it wasn't installed correctly, is missing a lower mount, the upper mount is missing a bushing, upper mount is loose, or a combination of those. It could also be the cooling fan(s) are missing a mounting bolt or had one snap off and is rattling against the radiator.

If you have the means, replace the radiator with a metal unit. Aluminum, brass, whatever. Far more durable.

[MX595]

Mishomoto is an acceptable replacement right? may go for the larger version

[Rogue]

I still am replacing OEM radiators after 20 years, so I wouldn't consider them less durable.
I run a replacement OEM style radiator in my wifes street Miata with no concern.
They cost less than $100.

[kung fu jesus]

Mishomoto is an acceptable replacement right? may go for the larger version

Yes. Be aware the larger ones (the 52mm ones) can have interference issues with larger aftermarket front swaybars. I have read of *some* fitment issues with the Mishimoto and Godspeed units, but that was when they first rolled out, not sure about now. I have a Mishimoto aluminum radiator in my e30, no issues, but not apples to apples.

[kung fu jesus]

I still am replacing OEM radiators after 20 years, so I wouldn't consider them less durable.
I run a replacement OEM style radiator in my wifes street Miata with no concern.
They cost less than $100.

tough to buy peace of mind, but I understand that.

[MX595]

Thanks for the input, i'll probably go oem for peace of mind

[kung fu jesus]

Good choice. Better now than when something bad happens!

[atank]

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq109/ironunion408/834B3C71-4D43-422B-A699-4DBBFA813FBF_30.jpeg

This one is ready to go anytime..............:teehee:..............:popcor n:

[MX595]

Yea, looks like the doo doo brown is all over the radiator, so that will def be replaced as well as hoses

[Blueiii]

I'm still always surprised when people bash on the plastic radiators... Most of these are over 2 decades old by now. Mine is still the original, and brown.... (Hoses and new radiator just waiting to be installed.)

If you think you might ever autocross the car, most classes require the original factory (style) radiator; aluminum radiator will technically bump you into a different class, although few people would ever enter a protest on that. (And if they do, save your radiator fluid from the swap and spritz it liberally onto their cold motor at the next event, then wait for them to freak out.)

[atank]

Mine is from a 1999 model so its done well and still going..............:shock:

[kung fu jesus]

I'm still always surprised when people bash on the plastic radiators... Most of these are over 2 decades old by now. Mine is still the original, and brown.... (Hoses and new radiator just waiting to be installed.)

If you think you might ever autocross the car, most classes require the original factory (style) radiator; aluminum radiator will technically bump you into a different class, although few people would ever enter a protest on that. (And if they do, save your radiator fluid from the swap and spritz it liberally onto their cold motor at the next event, then wait for them to freak out.)


Because I have seen them fail when they change colors like this. Cool that you want to autocross on as small a budget as you can, but which is going to make more sense? Spending $100 in preventative maintenance versus $350+ on a busted motor? Making important repairs or critical systems upgrades while worrying about autocross classing on a daily driver tells me your ego and desire for a little plastic trophy means more than your transportation, maybe I'm wrong?

[Mostro]

*shit happens*
http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/Strabila/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg (http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/Strabila/media/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg.html)

[atank]

*shit happens*
http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/Strabila/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg (http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/Strabila/media/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg.html)

Yes, this is what I am waiting on with my 99...............just a matter of time.........:whistle:

[Blueiii]

Because I have seen them fail when they change colors like this. Cool that you want to autocross on as small a budget as you can, but which is going to make more sense? Spending $100 in preventative maintenance versus $350+ on a busted motor? Making important repairs or critical systems upgrades while worrying about autocross classing on a daily driver tells me your ego and desire for a little plastic trophy means more than your transportation, maybe I'm wrong?

I'm a little confused... I wasn't saying "don't replace it." I was saying "stick with oem style if you think you might autocross the car regularly." (And that mine is also brown, but I've got one sitting in the garage to replace it - just haven't had time yet.)

[kung fu jesus]

Plastic radiators, don't like them. If you have the money, upgrade to metal. If not, get the OEM. The main point is if your plastic has turned brown, you are on borrowed time.

If you think the Miatas are bad, you should see the shit storm the plastic in the cooling systems of BMWs brings. :)

[Malibu Q]

My 91 still has original brown rad, all original hoses and as far as i know original water pump. All good. After reading KFJ's maintenance advise in another thread I bought all new OEM cooling parts and I plan to do the timing belt as well as it's ten years old. I used to think that timing belts lasted 100,000km but evidently they should be changed at 100K or five years. Oops. I chose another OEM radiator to retain the original appearance.

[Rogue]

I agree if your running any type of FI, then a larger radiator is in order.
But…I see more stock Miatas running aluminum radiators for the bling, or they have an issue with running warm and thats their way to mask it.
That "looks" better than actually fixing the issue.
The OEM style is plenty enough for a stocker in good nick.

I have had to replace some OEM "style" radiators (which is actually for an automatic) with a actual NOS OEM to stay in their SCCA class.

PS…….I just had one blow a week ago that had been rattle canned black, so look closely. :/

[Demon I Am]

yuck, why wait for it to break?

[Rogue]

yuck, why wait for it to break?

True dat, I just bought a OEM style replacement for $89 and swapped it in about 20 minutes.

[BoBo]

If you think the Miatas are bad, you should see the shit storm the plastic in the cooling systems of BMWs brings. :)

Plus the lousy gybo and 60mph shimmy.

[kung fu jesus]

Well, the guibo is pretty easy to replace, to me, but the plastic pieces all have quality metal aftermarket replacements. Compared to a Miata, the bimmer waterpumps are pretty easy to replace. :)

[MX5RACER]

I'm still always surprised when people bash on the plastic radiators... Most of these are over 2 decades old by now. Mine is still the original, and brown.... (Hoses and new radiator just waiting to be installed.)

If you think you might ever autocross the car, most classes require the original factory (style) radiator; aluminum radiator will technically bump you into a different class, although few people would ever enter a protest on that. (And if they do, save your radiator fluid from the swap and spritz it liberally onto their cold motor at the next event, then wait for them to freak out.)

You might want to take a look at the rules again, depending on what class you are talking about. They made a change to the Street Prepared rules, now you can replace a plastic radiator with an aluminum/brass/steel etc. provided that it is no SMALLER than the factory OEM unit.

[BoBo]

^Easy to do but also easy to rip especially if you have a 4.4L V8 LoL. I finally bought a metal one, but metal with rubber inserts I favor over the polyurethane because it's hard on the drive shaft. I had to replace my drive shaft.

I hated the common shimmy the most. I had to replace the ball joints, bushing, tires, wheels, and brakes. On the other hand, the front bushing kept going bad every 20-30k. I gotta say the power and massive torque was worth it, It made my day every day. Yeah, the water pump were a joke to install compared to a miata, that's one thing I can appreciate.

[Slampen]

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy30/slampen/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/slampen/media/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg.html)

Where in the lifecycle would you say this radiator is? :)

[kung fu jesus]

^Easy to do but also easy to rip especially if you have a 4.4L V8 LoL. I finally bought a metal one, but metal with rubber inserts I favor over the polyurethane because it's hard on the drive shaft. I had to replace my drive shaft.

I hated the common shimmy the most. I had to replace the ball joints, bushing, tires, wheels, and brakes. On the other hand, the front bushing kept going bad every 20-30k. I gotta say the power and massive torque was worth it, It made my day every day. Yeah, the water pump were a joke to install compared to a miata, that's one thing I can appreciate.

Yes! I replaced myDS too and the rebult one I received had that stupid shield over the guibo removed. SOOO much easier to work on. I am actually surprised how inexpensive OEM parts are for the suspensions on the e30. I replaced both front control arms for $90/ea (Lemforder). The rear suspension is a little more involved, but still easier than some Miata suspension work I have done. I would love a '00 528iT, but it's a unicorn and the chassis does require a bit more vigilance. On the e36m3 I had, everytime I did something maintenance wise, I looked for an upgraded equivalent. I went to metal cooling system components rather inexpensively. I also went straight to a Stewart metal water pump, though at 2-3x the cost of a plastic OE unit...worth the cost for the peace of mind. I have never seen a waterpump built like that Stewart unit...it truly looked engineered to last 300k miles.


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy30/slampen/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/slampen/media/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg.html)

Where in the lifecycle would you say this radiator is? :)

You are on borrowed time.

[Slampen]

You are on borrowed time.

:shocked:

[kung fu jesus]

*shit happens*
http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/Strabila/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg (http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/Strabila/media/mazda/Turbo/CD69482C-2790-4DA2-83AA-E0ECE0BB6C5A_zpsazj2plqh.jpg.html)


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy30/slampen/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/slampen/media/SlampMobilen/Garasjen/Cooling/WP_20140806_009_zps0454b3f9.jpg.html)

Where in the lifecycle would you say this radiator is? :)

See the similarity in color?

[Slampen]

See the similarity in color?

Yes I do....

Mixed feelings...always nice to place another order.

Guess I'll go alu while I'm on it.... :)

[BoBo]

I'm getting Mishimoto next week, I want that limited lifetime warranty. Then all I will need is boost.

[Twistietweaker]

I replaced my '97 with a Mishimoto. Why? Felt like it. :roll: