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I'm satisfied with my MeisterR but are considering Øhlins coilovers because of TUV. :slayer:
Springs are 450 pound/8kg front , and 336 pound/6kg rear.
What sway bars would you choose with these coilovers on a NA, and why?
Why not go for max hardness (hollow with supporting blocks) from Racing Beat?
My use is sporadic driving on road, with a wish to do more track days and auto-x.
The car stands on 15x8 6UL's with Federal 595 RS-R in 205/50.
I run Ohlins on muni Miata, and also run them on my race car. Sway bars, in Mumbai opinion are to fine tune your handling. I ran stock sways for a year (9 events) before I bought sways to fine tune the handling characteristic to my driving and what I wanted. I would just stay stock sways do a few track days and see where your car is at.
I have Ohlins on my NB, running 15 X 8 wheels with 205 Rival 1.5S, so similar to what you have. I have been using a MSM front sway (24mm) with a stock NB rear sway (12mm) for a while. I disconnect the rear sway when autocrossing as I need some control over the rear with the supercharger on a tight course. Ride and handling are both very good. Ride doesn't beat you up but cornering is good. Last time I autocrossed in August I used the Jackson Racing tubular front sway (I think it is 27mm) I have that was on the car when I bought it. Ride was noticeably harsher and I feel like I might have lost some on the handling side as the course I was on was very bumpy.
I have ohlins DFV on my NA8 and i run the stock sways front and rear. IMO, no need to upgrade sway bars unless you want to do more serious track work. Mine is a weekender and occasional spirited drive. I honestly dont think the car needs upgraded thicker sways
I really dislike sway bars. Sure, they can cut down on roll angle, and sure, they can be used to tweak the car balance in a more convenient way than swapping spring, but they do so in essence by reducing grip at the end of the car that grips more. Also, they stiffen the suspension on a single wheel bump too, besides roll, which means they do not contribute only at same and simultaneous movements of wheels (heave or pitch); at which point you could swap in stiffer springs and use them also to cut down on pitch angle.
Approach swaybars as a way to fine tune the suspension and roll.
I run a 1" FM unit I bought used on the inner setting (two holes on the ends of this one) and a MSM rear sway. On my NA, I used a solid RacingBeat front sway, and a stock NB rear sway. I used reinforcement blocks from RacingBeat on the front sway of both cars. Adjustable endlinks all around, except the NA. I just used stock endlinks on the rear of that one. The hollow RacingBeat front sway is generally perceived as too much spring for a street car. Understeer city.
I’d say the FM front and rear sway package. Make sure you get the correct chassis year versions as the NA6 and NA8 have different mounting locations on the chassis.
They’re balanced for neutral handling and have adjustment holes on both the front and rear bars. If you have the cash you could get billet sway mounts and competition mounts - I wouldn’t say they’re needed though unless you track a lot...
FM has always been more road friendly that the competition..
I know of a few people who sold off their racing beat ones for FM’s. You can’t beat neutral handling.
I do not like the FM rear bar. It makes the chassis too prone to oversteer.