My name is Zico, and this is my Chaste White NA8 build

Back in January, I was searching for a set of Tein coilovers and came across a new range of coilovers due to be released late February - Tein MonoRacing, which sit between their existing MonoSport and the flagship, top of the range, SuperRacing. Spring rates are customisable from 12/14/16kg front, to 8/10/12kg rear, which seemed pretty reasonable so I figured I’d give them a try. Monotube design, the usual height and damper adjustable, and unfortunately like most coilovers, no individual rebound adjustment. I placed my order and opted for 12kg Front and 8kg Rear, and wait until the release date of Feb 22nd, had them shipped from Japan and they were in my hands 6 days later. I took some measurements, assembled them, then threw them back in the box and then they sat in storage for a few months lol

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When I got my new Miata, I swapped out the Tein Flex Z’s that came with the car, fitted my new Tein Monoracing, and did the same with the wheels, with an exact same set I had ordered earlier. The wheels that came with the car were a few years old and slightly faded, but were still in pretty good condition. No buckles or rashes. I sold the wheels and coilovers to Stephen, I’ll let him share the details of what he wants to do with them. Anyway, it took roughly 3 months to get these from Japan, new RS Watanabe Type B 14 x 6.5” +14.5, with rim processing for NA8 brake fitment. For those interested, if you have an NA8 and want to run these wheels, it’s essential you get the rim processing done. At 2500 JPY extra per rim, they shave the rear spokes down in order to clear your NA8 brakes. Either that, or you run spacers, which I’m not really a fan of. You could theoretically just pay for processing the two front wheels, but I did all four so I could rotate wheels/tyres if needed. On the topic of tyres, these were a major PITA to get in Australia. No one carried stock and my only option was to order them from Japan, a nice long 4 month wait…. got them all fitted and balanced when they arrived and now they’re sitting pretty on the car. The Watanabes came with a set of lugnuts as well, but I sold them off to Vu, a NB owner who I’m pretty sure would be on here somewhere hehe

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Initial impressions of tyres are quite positive. The tyres are extremely responsive! Sidewalls are pretty stiff, typical of Bridgestone tyres. I usually pump my street tyres to 38-40psi, depending on the tyre, and at 40psi, they’re still comfortable (must be because of the 60 profile). They have a 200 treadware rating, and are VERY stick tyre, maybe even too sticky haha. Much more sticky than the AD08R, but they don’t seem to be as noisy.. They’re constantly picking up small rocks and pebbles as you drive, so that’s slightly annoying. Driving over a freshly laid surface is even more annoying, the sound would be similar peeling masking tape off a roll, not sure if that’s because of how sticky they are or just the tread pattern. I’ve read lots of reviews and the one negative point that everyone makes is that they don’t last very long. With the long ass wait to bring them in, it would probably be best to order any replacements a few months in advance. I don’t drive my car much anyway so I’m not too fussed, so even if they last 8-10,000kms I’ll be happy. It will probably take me 3-4 years to drive that distance anyway. Here's a photo with a work colleague. I recently found out he imports containers from Japan for parts and cars, this might get interesting..

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Anyway, back to the car.. one thing that annoyed me about it was the keyless entry / alarm system. Occasionally, the immobiliser plays up and I spend more time than I want to, trying to start my car. I have a feeling the dodgy alarm was contributing to draining my battery as well, but I barely drive it so who knows. Regardless, I think it was time to get rid of it. It didn’t take me too long, took my time and was done in about an hour.

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Having eliminated the fuel odour in the previous car, I figured it would be best to be proactive and replace the same items in this car before it’s too late. Nothing worse than driving a car with the stench of fuel absorbed in all your carpet, trim and plastics. There weren't any fuel odour issues yet, but regardless of the mileage on the car, it is still 25 years old, meaning the rubber hoses are 25 years old as well. Our Australian climate is quite harsh, summer is hot and dry, and we have many days where the heat is above 40 deg C (105 F) . The fuel odour issues occur because the rubber hoses dry out and harden up, tiny cracks forming and basically the hose is dry rotted. This is probably where fuel vapour escapes under pressure. If you rub your fingers on your hose, it might pick up some of the odour. There have been reports of the one way check valve may clogging up too, forcing excess pressurised fuel vapour to find other ways to leak out; ie: the hoses. There have been recommendations to clean the valve out but I opted to just replace it. The most common hose that dry rots is the large one in the boot. When the Miata is filled up to its maximum capacity, fuel sits about half way up that hose, so it is essential you swap out all your components on a half empty tank, unless you want to deal with leaking fuel everywhere in your boot. You could just replace the large one but better to just replace the entire lot. Saves me the hassle of diagnosing any future issues.

All OEM items were used:
-Fuel vapour check valve
-Fuel rollover valve
-Fuel vapour hoses
-Fuel filler hoses (large and small hoses in the boot)
-Fuel pump sock + washer
-Fuel pump assembly gasket
-Fuel pump feed + return line
-Fuel filter + inlet and outlet hoses.

So here is the install. Fuel vapour hoses, check valve and roll over valve

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Fuel feed and return hoses. These go from your fuel pump to your hard lines, feeding fuel into the motor. The return line is longer than the feed line by 1cm, and is actually discontinued. However, just order two of the feed lines, and it still fits perfectly fine.

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Fuel pump assembly gasket, sock and washer. The japanese part number for the assembly gasket is discontinued. I used the USA part number, and it still fits fine.

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Fuel filler neck hoses

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All items replaced, rear deck wiped down and carpet reinstalled. Soft top also removed from car and i used a taped up coat hanger to clean out the soft top drain holes. A few bits of dirt in there, nothing major.

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I’ve also read that the orange and black fuel caps are different, orange for cars 89-95, and black for 96+ models. I am unsure of what the differences are, but ordered the black one anyway for a more subtle look. It fit perfectly fine, and screws in the same amount of rotations and clicks as the orange one. When I remove the fuel cap, it hisses and releases pressure just like the orange one does, but I’ve kept my old orange one anyway, just in case I missed something. I will closely monitor the fuel system over the next fuel months to see if any issues occur, especially now as we are approaching our summer months. Maybe I'll send Tomoyo a message and ask her if she knows whats up..

I strongly recommend all NA owners do this overhaul, it isn’t cheap if you use all OEM items, but it really is worth every single penny. On closer inspection of the hoses, it seems the OEM hoses have white thread in the middle of the rubber.. not sure why, but probably the reason they cost 20-30USD each for the smaller ones, and 45USD for the large one in the boot.

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I also handed back in the license plates that came with the car, and just replaced them with some standard issue plates. Complete custom license plates in my state cost 330 USD per year, in addition to 650USD annual registration costs. Definitely not something I am keen on paying for.

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New plates mounted. I took ownership of the car at approximately 87,000kms, so I knew a 90,000km minor service was due soon. However, I’ve decided to start ordering all parts required for the 100,000km timing belt / water pump service to do early. Luckily I did because a few weeks later, I found myself stuck on the highway with a blown heater core hose. More on that in the next post…

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I spent the majority of last month stressing about the car’s cooling system. Here’s a little read for you guys..

I randomly decided to check on my fluids one day and noticed some rust particles floating around in the radiator, I'm guessing one of the previous owners used tap water instead of coolant. I disconnected the two heater core hoses and out comes some brown, nasty, rusty looking water :( I start stressing about the amount of rust particles / gunk that is floating around the coolant system. I fitted a hose joiner to the two heater core hoses together and bypass the heater core temporarily as I didn’t want the heater core to clog and leak in the cabin. I guess I could have just removed one of the hoses and looped the existing one, but I didn't want to kink the lines. If you want to join the two hoses, this is what I used.

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I start researching how to get rid of the rust and came across an American product called Evaporust Thermocure (https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure), a non-toxic, non-corrosive, and eco-friendly rust converter. Safe to pour on your plants after you're done with it.. however, costs $60USD/Litre delivered to Australia :fp: There were cheaper alternatives available locally for $10-$15 but they are all corrosive, acidic or harmful to engine seals and gaskets, so I figured I'd just be safe and just pay the price of the Thermocure. The instructions were pretty simple, flush out your existing coolant as much as possible, pour the Evaporust into your radiator and fill with distilled water, run the engine for a few hours, flush the Thermocure out, refill with coolant and that's it. It's safe to leave in your car for a few days as well if you dont drive it much, which is what I ended up doing. I figured I'd clean the existing system out of all it's gunk first, and then change out all the coolant hoses, radiator and NB aluminium heater core when I do the timing belt service.

Fast forward to 3 days later, I decide to flush the Thermocure out of my car. I pack all my tools, and make my way to a mates place to work on the car. I hit the highway and 5 minutes in, I notice a little steam coming out of my hood. As I'm trying to assess the situation, I notice the water temp guage is sitting higher than usual, about 2/3rds of the way to full and climbing. By the time I find a safe spot to pull over, the needle is pointing to the maximum temp on the guage :( I switch the engine off, let the car cool down, and tried to figure out which hose had popped off. Whilst I've got my head stuck under the hood, the emergency highway patrol unit stops by and offers a helping hand. Just by sheer luck, they were attending to another break down a few hundred meters down the road, and happened to see my car on the side of the road. The patrol guy starts pouring water into my radiator, and I notice steam coming out the back of the motor. Of course, my mind jumps straight to the worst possible conclusion of a warped head or leaking head gasket haha, but as he continues to pour more water in, I notice the steam coming out of a split heater core hose.. the same hose I had looped the other day with the adaptor when I bypassed the heater core. I must have kinked the hose or something? But it split at the end where coolant flows back into the head, not where the adaptor was fitted. I got to work replacing the hose (luckily I had a spare hose in the boot), topped the system up with water, expressed my gratitude and off I went :lol: I'll have to do a compression test soon to make sure everything is fine, wouldn't want to do a timing belt service on a shot motor

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Having been through that little hiccup, I decided I wasn’t going to take any second chances with another coolant leak / overheating issue. I decided to do a complete overhaul of the cooling system, a new radiator, OEM water passages in case the existing ones have corroded, upgrade to the NB aluminium heater core, new thermostat and etc. I spent the next few days searching and ordering parts, including a used NB heater box for $50 - I thought this was a bargain, but it arrives damaged. The heater core box is cracked in multiple places as it was inadequately packed. At the same time, if some due care was taken during handling/delivery, it would have been okay with it's current packaging. Regardless, even if the heater box arrived undamaged, I wasn't really happy with it. Over time, the seals on it had worn down, all the foam on the inside had deteriorated and turned mouldy, I guess it's just wear and tear from the last 20+ years of use. I dont think its fair to ask for a refund from the seller as I am partly to blame for not asking for clearer pictures of the heater box, I should have known that the foam bits would be old and worn.

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I decide to make do with what I've got, so I stripped the aluminium core from the damaged housing, and I'll just swap out my copper core for it, reusing my NA heater core housing. A few mins with a pair of pliers and a screw driver and out it came.

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Here are the rest of the parts that will be going in my car during the cooling system overhaul.

Koyo 36mm core Hyper V radiator. This will replace the no name aluminium 44mm radiator that’s currently on the car. I chose the 36mm because I didn’t want to run a thick radiator, trying to minimise any additional weight gain. Thinner radiator + less coolant.. every bit counts!

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Ordered a Maruha stainless steel radiator pipe as the OEM one tends to rust out, OEM radiator hoses and bypass hoses, heater core hoses + grommets - one of the heater core hoses was used to when I got stranded on the highway.

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Maruha 78deg c thermostat, some hose clamps, OEM gaskets, coolant passage ways (thermostat top housing still in the mail), and an OEM thermoswitch

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And probably the most exciting piece I've found on yahoo (besides some green Mazda speed sway bars I found for Stephen), a brand new NB Heater core unit on yahoo japan. Perfect timing with this one, it showed up on yahoo the day the used/broken one arrived! It might not be anything exciting for you guys, but this meant that I could complete entire coolant overhaul with all new items, no more used parts! Everything will be brand new, and hopefully last another 20 years. It wasn’t cheap though, ended up at about $365 USD landed lol

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I also picked up a blower box refresh kit from Maruha

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Since the dash is coming out, the thought of deleting AC has crossed my mind. Apparently, I will have to degas the system of refrigerant to remove the AirCon box, before the heater box can come out. My old EK K20A had no PS or AC, and it definitely wasn’t fun driving around drenched in sweat.. but my silly, inner street-racer wants to delete it (the amount of weight removed won't even change the power to weight ratio by that much lol).

I haven't decided yet, so I bought the OEM HVAC control unit anyway, just in case I ever decide to remove it. I didn’t have to buy this to delete AC from the car, I could just leave everything as is, or just buy a control knob from a Non AC car, but my OCD got the better of me. The Non-AC fan control knob is discontinued, and so are the three sliding adjusting knobs, so I guess it’s another reason to have a brand new spare unit lying around.

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Along with the HVAC control unit, I also picked up an AC delete kit, with firewall grommets as well. There’s also a shorter bolt that’s on its way, for when the AC bracket is removed and a replacement shorter bolt is required to seal the oil pump housing back in place.

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I’m sure that takes care of all the HVAC components, let me know if I’ve missed anything!

Since I’ll be pulling the dash out, it's also the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the NB brake/accelerator pedal assembly. If you’ve got a heavy foot, the NA assembly is prone to splitting/snapping just like the image below (crack seen just above the return spring for the accelerator pedal).

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An upgrade to the NB assembly is ideal as the metal is thicker than the NA assembly. You could weld some reinforcement plates on the back of your NA assembly, but this is just easier. There are some things I’m willing to pay a pretty penny for, but $250 USD for a brand new OEM NB brake pedal assembly isn’t one of them, so a used one it is.

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Of course, I didn’t want to install it in its current condition, so I got to work with refreshing it. I unassembled the unit, and soaked it in some vinegar overnight to remove the surface rust. A light rub with a dishwashing scourer removed it all, cheap and easy!

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I headed down to a mates workshop and gave it a quick sand, a few coats of primer and finished off with some satin black paint. After it dried, I reassembled the unit using all the old hardware, just to see what it looks like (I did order some new bolts and washers and etc, just waiting for them to arrive).

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It turned out quite well I think? I would have preferred to zinc coat it, but it wasn’t worth sending away just to coat one item.

Before

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After

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I can’t wait to rip the dash out now! It will probably be the next post. I need to swap out all the under dash components before the car heads into the workshop for its timing belt service. Im still about 10,000km shy of the 100k kms milestone, but the car is 25 years old, so better to do it now before something else breaks!

This thread is so much win! You can replace the lower coolant hose with a single-piece NB one (the NA is rubber->metal->rubber->radiator), to eliminate 2 potential failure points at the joints.

Care to share a bit more info on the Maruha blower kit? The foam along the complete HVAC tract of my NB2 should be completely toast by now...

Thanks Harry! Thats a much better option, rather than buying the Maruha pipe + two hoses at the bottom. If only I had known earlier haha I’ll look into it further and probably end up placing an order!

Yeh the Maruha blower rebuild kit is only foam pieces for the blower fan unit, not the HVAC heater core housing unit. I don’t know the exact name of it, but it’s the unit that’s closest to the door. Spirit Road sells Maruha gear in the USA, he might be able to help you out.

Thanks for that info. I am actually in Europe (Greece), so I will order directly from Maruha. I have had my fair share of communication with them in the past, and Saji is more than helpful!

There has been some progress with the car since I last posted.

I dropped my car into my mates workshop and we spent the next 20 hours over 3 days working on it.

First was the gearbox, followed by the engine.

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Front end of the motor: New OEM Waterpump, coolant passage ways, thermostat housing, crank pulley, idler pulley, tensioner spring, cam and crank seals, some new bolts here and there as well. The only non OEM items were a TODA timing belt, and a Maruha 78deg thermostat.

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Fitted all back together with new OEM timing covers, top, middle and bottom.

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Top of the motor: New OEM Rocker cover gasket, PCV valve + grommet, Injectors O Rings, top and bottom seals.

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Bottom end of the motor: Fitted in a new Maruha baffled sump, OEM half moon seals, OEM rear main seal and OEM sump plug and washer.

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Rear of the motor: Maruha 4.4kg Lightened flywheel, new OEM flywheel bolts, Exedy Heavy Duty clutch, OEM CAS seal, OEM oil pressure sender, OEM rear water housing, and finished off with a new OEM thermoswitch.

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Having come from driving Honda's, one thing I loved was the short gearing of a Integra Type R. When I had an S2000, the standard 4.1 FD was also changed to 4.77FD and it completely changed the way the car drove. Driving the Miata feels a little to slow to be honest, most people go down the path of forced induction, and I wasn't keen to drop a chunk of money on going down that path. The next best option to make the car a little more zippy was to throw in a 4.3 FD with my 5 speed gearbox. I don't intend to pull the diff out anytime soon, and if i did, it would mean new bearings, seals, and an OS Giken LSD as well, that would be another costly excercise so i decided to get my hands on a 6 speed gearbox and pair it with my 4.1FD. The NB's come with 3.6 FD in Australia, so pairing it with my 4.1FD would make everyday driving a lot more fun.

So of course, before throwing in the 6 speed, I changed out the front and rear transmission seals, new dust boot, and rebuilt the shifter. New release bearing came with the clutch kit, so one less thing for me to buy.

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Out came my power steering system, which got replaced with the Brand new OEM manual steering rack and some new 93LE Tie road ends

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We fitted the motor and gearbox back in, fitted a new OEM clutch slave and aftermarket braided clutch line, installed a set of new Fujitsubo SuperEX headers with a 200cpi Magnaflow cat, welded in some Mazdaspeed subframe reinforcement plates and gave it a quick coat of black paint. Also fitted a NB Starter, which is slightly lighter along with the NB transmission plate. I didn't get many pics, got too tired and lazy to be honest.

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Ended up replacing all my coolant hoses and bypass hoses while the motor was out as well. I didnt end up using the lower Maruha stainless steel pipe, and opted for a NB radiator hose instead. Dropped in a New Koyo Hyper V radiator, fluids topped up and car cranked over first go. This is how it currently sits after about 20 hours of work.

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The heater core hoses haven't been replaced yet, I'm about to pull out the dash to replace the heater box and give the blower unit a refresh. I'll give it a proper clean later when I decide to attend to the the engine bay again. Have some new leads, coolant tank, radiator cap and oil cap to throw in.

After having the car back from the workshop for a week, everything seems to still be running well. I figured I'd start on the interior and replace the ventilation system.

So out came the dash board and heater core
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I removed the vent pipes to give them a good wash inside.

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Comparison pics of the new NB heater box vs old mouldy NA heater box

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Also removed the NA brake/accelerator pedal assembly and installed my NB pedal assembly. Fitted with new OEM bolts, springs, and pedal stoppers.

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There were some spider webs under the dash, so I pulled out the trusty Dyson and gave the carpet and seats a nice thorough vacuum. Sprayed the interior with some bug spray, and now letting it aerate whilst I have some lunch and update this build thread lol

The carpet is still in amazing condition, no fluff/fleece or fuzzing on the carpet. Extremely happy!

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Will post more pics when I'm done :)

Have been seeing these pics on Insta, but thanks for taking the time and doing a proper update here, always great to read the stories.

Thank you for blessing my eyes.

Mazda Restoration Program, have a seat.

Nice work you did there. :8):

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Originally Posted by Roadster7

Mazda Restoration Program, have a seat.

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Just caught up and wow, so much good right here. Great to see such great contributions in the MRNet!

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Originally Posted by HarryB

Have been seeing these pics on Insta, but thanks for taking the time and doing a proper update here, always great to read the stories.

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Thank you for the heads up regarding the radiator hoses! Much appreciated :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MaRcOp01o

Thank you for blessing my eyes.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roadster7

Mazda Restoration Program, have a seat.

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you guys are way too kind *blush*

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LagBlu

Nice work you did there. :8):

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Thanks LagBlu, your build thread is really inspirational too. Great motivation for me to continue restoring my car !

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Originally Posted by oldgrayleather

Just caught up and wow, so much good right here. Great to see such great contributions in the MRNet!

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Thanks Pete! Just trying to keep it simple, and not change too much from what Mazda intended it to be. I dont have the luxury of owning multiple cars like others around here... :winky::winky: hahaha I love all your cars mate, very jealous indeed!