This helped me when I removed the head unit:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....on-Replacement
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This helped me when I removed the head unit:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....on-Replacement
Awesome. That thread helps. Thanks Martin.
Definitely going to invest the $15 in the PAc LC-1 for volume control. Much rather control volume from a knob near the shifter than my iphone.
Also will grab a $5 mazda wiring harness off ebay .
Im OK with USB or AUX cord to iphone; bluetooth isnt necessary. Guessing this will have to be a red/white connector to be plugged into amp.
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The volume controller in essence is a potentiometer inline with your source; you can use it to lower the volume but you cannot exceed the maximum set by the amp and/or the phone. My amp had a small knob controlling volume/bass/treble, connected to the main board via 4 inches of wires, so it could be placed "remotely". As far as connecting the phone with the amp, a 3.5 jack to RCA cable will do it. Couple of dollars through eBay as well. Albeit Bluetooth will be cleaner and most probably better quality due to absence of ground/signal issues.
P.S. make sure you ground the amp as good as possible.
Thank you for all the help. Will begin collecting parts for this project. Didnt realize bluetooth would be clearer. Maybe BT and volume control just through phone is the simplest/best way to do it. Thinking about it, controlling the volume via buttons on the side of the phone isnt that difficult.
My son slept after Easter dinner and rain prevented us from finishing his new swing set so I tinkered on the Miata for a bit.
Got the adorable shorty center console mounted to the trans tunnel. Was a bit more difficult than I thought but I got it done. Drilled some PITA holes and used some generic household screws to attach it in some hard to see areas. It works. Its complete. Being fastened tightly to the car helps with the manipulation of the switches.
Im 95% happy with how it all came out. Could be better but could be way worse. Learned a lot. Proved to myself I can do cool stuff if I put my mind to it. I picked up a cheap spare center console for the day I decide to make another version.
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Forgot to take photos with the lid on. potato camera in awful garage (see:none) lighting.
Then I mounted the tombstone with the new omgpham blockoff plate and revlimiter shift plate. Excuse the mess inside the dash.
I think it turned out great. Took the seats out today so I couldnt really tell what it will look like from driver's POV but idc. It looks swell. Like it is supposed to be there.
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And in my quest to get rid of the radio and further improve the center stack, I test fitted my styrene plastic block off panel. Press fits pretty nicely. Ill prime it, paint it with some truck bedliner spray and press it in with some silicone or double sidr tape until I figure out final solution.
My tombstone is the JDM version...im not sure who or what company makes a well-built block off panel for that size.
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Im not completely sold on the full block off panel and I do like the look & usefulness of the OEM single din cubby. Great spot for my wallet & garage door opener. Ill fab up a panel to fit in with the cubby and see what works/what I like best.
Happy Easter!
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While Im figuring out and collecting pieces for a new hidden music setup, I fabbed this up out of some .118" styrene plastic. Trimmed it close enough where it presses in. Painted it with some black paint I had laying around.
Doesn't look too bad.
Drove it to Work today...i definitely miss the mazda half cubby and music. Parts buying is on hold for a couple weeks.
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Anyone have any experience with Jass Performance shipping?
Curious as to how long stuff takes to get stateside from them.
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Mine took awhile. In fact, I ended up contacting them to make sure it was being sent. They were very professional and it wasn't much later that the part arrived.
I ordered a small part from Jass (not yet installed) and it arrived pretty quickly. No problem.
Provably irrelevant since we are close, but mine took no more than a week from the moment I sent the payment.
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Thanks for replies everyone. Ordered needle caps from them. Hoping they're here before I go away for a few days on vacation next weekend. And that they line up with other parts coming in.
Going to have an awesome new dashboard project you all may like.
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Car got a bath today and attended seasons first Cars and Coffee Buffalo. Was a good time. People seemed to enjoy my Miata.
Then later picking up a pizza in the Miata I saw a fellow Miata parked that has seen its rounds. Would love to find the owner as this car has my old Autokonexion trunk lid.
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That trunk has somewhat special place in my Miata heart because it was the first ever version 1 trunk made by Autokonexion with the corners flush with the rear quarters. I asked them for the version 1 trunk with rounded corners. IIRC this was named version 1.5.
Would like to have it back.
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Someone took this nice photo of my miata at the local Cars And Coffee.
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Soooo some car jewelry came today....
This is another holy grail Miata part for me.
I was referred to a JDM parts supplier from a fellow Miata enthusiast online. I wanted to source a part that I thought was very, very hard to find.
After several emails back and forth, a couple bucks sent, order placed, and approx a month of waiting, this incredible piece has arrived. Hand built for me. And sent straight from Japan.
Finally. Ive only owned Miatas for 15 years and have only wanted this panel since I can remember. Id say 10 years or more.
Cannot wait to install. But I will have to wait until my needle caps arrive. New LED bulbs will also go in at same time.
In the meantime I will install my revlimiter lenses and a chain to wear this around my neck when I go out in public.
Fragile Japanese box.
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Got revlimiter's lenses installed in my brand new KG Works meter panel today and got the gauge cluster installed with white LEDs.
I will dedicate another post to the lense installation because my panel differs in a couple ways from Adam's write up. Things were a bit more complicated on mine.
Need to figure out why the right side (temp gauge) isnt getting any light now.
I removed the airbag bulb (dumb, i know) and now I have that annoying beeper so Ill put it back in. Still waiting on needle caps. And Ill need a new gauge hood since mine only has one clip left. So eventually this will all come back apart. Also would like a new speedo cable.
This cluster is so amazing. Much JDM. Such pretty. Many vintage.
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KG Works panel looks great; love mine to bits, and they look even better up close! Car looks amazing Paul, keep it up!
Doesn't get much better than a KG Works gauge panel w/ Revlimiter anti glare glass and Revlimiter gauges!! :bow: They look great Paul! :D
Installed some sound deadener/ heat insulation today.
Had about 5 1/2 sheets of this Eastwood product leftover from when my father did the same to his 2002 miata several years back. Needed to get this stuff out of the garage. My father wasnt too happy with it at the time because it apparently heated up and then dripped through seams or holes onto his garage floor. The gentleman he sold that car to is a friend of mine and he reported no issues from dripping deadener while he owned the car. So whatever. The stuff was on hand so I used it up.
Installed all in the floor pans, under the seats, up into the footwell/pedal area (and near the trans tunnel) as far as I could , and over the trans tunnel. Put a bit up into the rocker area.
Ultimate goal is to get the car quieter from road noise and keep the heat/cold out. Would like this car to be a nice driver. Eventually with turbo these areas will get very hot if Ive learned anything from my previous turbo miata.
Looking back now thats it done,I should have waited to buy and install FM frame rails and put this deadener over that hardware but whatever.
Once Im ready for my new door panel project I will use some area specific dynamat or similar.
Not the greatest pics but you get the idea.
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Remember to tag me when you install frame rails! I want to see just how much coin hits the cuss jar.
Peace fellow nut.
PS. Put me in you Will for your KG's? LOL
http://i.imgur.com/ozq4SNV.jpg
Red lit Circuits behind KG's?
Continuing with my build which consists of me buying things that bolt easily to my car....
I acquired a seat belt receiver from a 94-97 Miata driver's seat to replace my huge and extra longer OEM 1990 receiver. Used the stock bolt that came with it to bolt it to the Elise seat.
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Looks much nicer and will definitely keep the belt away from my stomach. Now to acquire a passenger side receiver.
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For those that have done this? Do they work best with same year belts? Seems like my belt works and holds tights but sometimes takes some extra effort to get it to click. Maybe I need 94-97 belts?
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Turned 98,000 today. Got it with 87,000 a few years back.
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Today I used a better method to hold my custom center console to the trans tunnel.
It was recommended a few pages back that I try riv-nuts. I did some research and it seemed like an easy, and more secure alternative to house screws. Thank you for the suggestion!
Went to the local Harbor Freight to pick up a riv-nut kit and then to Home Depot for the matching screws and drill bit.
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Drilled the holes and used a step bit to de-burr and open the edges a bit for the riv-nut. Then used the riv-nut gun to install. Lost 2 along the way as practice but Im satisfied with how it turned out.
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Console is now more secure and with a much improved fastener and a much easier way to install.
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I knew it was one of the Greasemonkeys lol i went back a few pages and couldn't find it so I gave up.
Thank you NCGreasemonkey for the riv-nut recommendation. My center console and window switches are now secure and solid thanks to you.
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Get it done!!
Ive been trying to uninstall my GV rep lip and reinstall my R package lip for over a week now. Just no time for that job recently.
Then to figure out my no head unit music setup when the amp and cord arrives.
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I want these under Noir.
http://i.imgur.com/225hccW.jpg
But it is a timing thing for install. Free time on the rack to set/align. And not have Engine swaps, head jobs and other in my bay.
But those pay the parts bills and household expenses.
Ohhh very nice! Youll figure it out!
Im just glad its still the beginning of May and Ive made a lot of progress on the car so far.
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OEM Mazda chrome hand brake button arrived today and installed within minutes.
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Needed a little bit of flare in the handbrake area to break up all the black.
So much black.
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OEM black and OEM chrome.
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Flare.
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Still am undecided what route I want to go for shift knob and hand brake handle. I really enjoy the matching voodoo set up I have. Have had this set for close to 10 years now. May go with polished brake handle eventually but not sure which one I prefer. Figured Ill start with the chrome button and see what it looks like. It may be just the ticket.
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Jass Performance needle caps arrived today.
May hold off a little bit on installing these. Would like to replace the squeaky speedo cable and the original cluster hood that has a few broken clips. Also need to reverse 1 or 2 LED bulbs i installed backwards.
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I would have given you my 'chrome' ebrake button, Paul! :lol:
Installed the Jass Performance needle caps that arrived a few days ago. They slide right on. The larger ones seemed a bit loose so I used a dab of silicone underneath to make sure they were secure and wouldn't rattle. The three smaller caps seemed to snap into place. Very happy with the fit, finish, and price of the Jass caps.
Before:
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After:
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After I installed my LED bulbs in my cluster I noticed that the right side of the cluster wasn't lighting up. Installed them during the day time so wasn't 100% sure how it was in the dark or if it was an install error or maybe even a bulb issue. (I know nothing about LEDs.)
A quick email to Adam and he sent me some info and linked me to his gauge install video on YouTube. Quickly found the portion that says its an easy fix, just gotta spin the bulb & socket 180. Who knew?! Not me obviously.
A trial and error and got the lights all fixed. Damn I didnt think they were that bright at first but wow. Never thought Id have to consider dimming the gauges in a 1990 Miata ever.
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Was curious of I did something wrong again as those two lower orange-ish lights are on with the lights. Another quick email to Adam and another fast and informative response. My car is early enough that these lights are lit. Im OK with them being on while the lights are also on, just wanted to make sure I didnt have anything messed up again.
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In my opinion, its almost as if these two lights are the vintage version of the modern day indicator that tells the driver "hey, your lights are on,dumbass." Either way, the cluster looks incredible. The lights and bulbs look amazing. I am super amped with how this cluster had turned out.
Next I removed the replica GV lip and re-installed my rep R package lip. The phase Im in now has me really enjoying and appreciating what Mazda designers did at the factory. Has me searching for an R package trunk lid spoiler now.
Horrible photo in my ugly garage.
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Looks fantastic Paul! It's really coming along very nicely!
Re: the two orange lights on the left and the right of the centre indicators, the reason why it lights up is because theres nothing on your cluster to block the lenses from lighting it up it seems? Here's mine for comparisonQuote:
Originally Posted by Paul B
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p...psi1b4j2mu.jpg
I re-wired it so that the popup headlight light now turns on from one of the orange lights (bottom left) since the old gauge face had the pop up headlight icon on the face of the actual gauge as shown above, and the gauges I got from Adam don't.
Glad to see you don't mind it but if it becomes annoying down the line, my friend of mine cut up some black plastic and stuck it over the lenses so that the light doesn't penetrate through and it seems to do the job :)
Thanks for the info! And the kind words. Catching up to your car slowly lol
Yea it depends on model year from what Adam said if your panel has a row of 4 lights or 2. My car is a 90.
And it would seem that at least one of these lights would light up the headlight icon with OEM gauges. Just my guess. Must be the way the KG panel says "headlights on"
As if today I dont see the lights becoming annoying. If anything, it makes the gauge panel look even more awesome at night haha.
If they do get annoying it was recommended using some thin cardboard to block them. We will see down the road.
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Today was the day to cut up a 27 year old dashboard.
With the help of a 2 yr old.
The spare crash pad has been ready for a couple months now.
"Gauges" ...voltmeter and clock...(silly, I know) are ordered. Should be here in a few days. Just some Autometer Traditional Chrome series. Eventually these may be moved and swapped for gauges related to a turbo build.
Time to hack up something nice.
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Used a tool my father got as a gift years ago. He has hardly ever used it since he is literally the guy who has everything. And every tool you can imagine from being a mechanic since he was 14. Introducing The Rotozip. I didnt have proper attachments for my cheap rotary tool so this Rotozip worked well. Only negative is the mess it makes. Oh well. Made quick work of the plastic. Cut isnt pretty but idc. Crash pad will cover it.
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Cut off more than I needed for the two gauges but in the future I may add a third gauge once turbo goes in, so extra is ok.
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This bracket is a pain in the ass if the dash is still in the car. Very difficult to get the screw that is inside the dash, facing the trunk and sandwiched behind the support tubing. Had to used a tiny 1/4" open end wrech and a phillips head bit to get it off. Only thing that would fit in there
I imagine this bracket is much easier to remove when dash is out of the car. Didnt want to break it and risk cracking the dash. And didnt feel like cutting it.
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Gauge pods rest nicely. They are slightly not level but final adjustments will be made once gauges are here and ready to go in.
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Only issue I ran into was that stupid bracket which led to a glove box issue. Had to remove glove box to get to the hidden screw. In doing so, broke one of the tabs that hold the hinge for the glove box. Ugh. Glovebox came out and found it was cracked through on the upper wall from top to bottom. The hinge might be able to be JB welded back on and the crack can be fixed/reinforced with some styrene. Will get me by so I have a glove box to hold the reg & insurance and gloves lol yes, gloves in a glove box. Was planning on working on the glove box area anyway eventually to eliminate some rattling. Eventually Ill ebay a glove box in better condition.
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Looks fantastic! Gauges should look right at home.
Thank you! If Summit's tracking info
Is correct they should be here tomorrow. Guess it helps that they have a warehouse in Ohio.
Instal will have to wait for my fathers's help. I can do most things but i really really dislike wiring.
Also have a set of 949Racing lugs nuts. Noticed my cheapo Autozone lugs have began to rust. Cant have that.
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"Gauges" have arrived. Now to find time to install them.
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Love the clock. Now get Adam to make some custom faces!
This is quickly turning into one of my favorite builds. I love the simplicity and the few shiny touches. Sometimes less is more. Keep it up!
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Thanks!
Already ahead of you....I messaged Adam before making the gauge decision. He said that unfortunately the Autometers cannot be taken apart and re-faced. IIRC only AEM gauges can be refaced. And I wasn't a fan of the price of those or the look. I prefer the analog classic loo
I chose the Autometer traditional chrome series because the trim ring and the faces seem like theyll blend will with the interior. Numbers and markings arent too modern nor too vintage. The orange needles have me thinking about painting my OEM needles to match. Someone here had the Stirling gauge set with orange needles; ill have tk see how it looks. Ill get the Autometers mounted and installed and go from there.
This particular design has a very large line so eventually Ill be able to get matching boost gauge etc.
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Thank you so much!! Humbled and honored.
This car is becoming my dream car. Trying to do everything right to make it a nice classy driver.
After these gauges are wired in, next interior projects is the head Unit -less music setup and to re-do my door panels and finally mount the LE speaker panels. Interior will be "done". Then to start on new suspension.
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Set them in place just to see how they'd look.
Photos are awful but you get the idea. Gloomy day here so car is in my poorly lit garage.
It looks amazing seeing the gauges in there while looking into the car from rear quarter view without a roof on.
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The other day I was checking tire pressure and washing the car and noticed my cheapo slotted Autozone lug nuts were chipping and getting rusty.
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Ordered up a set of 949 Racing lugs. Had a set on my old car with these same wheels. Figured they were a great option.
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Security was not an issue for me. Car is always garaged at home at night. Parking at work is in secure lots. Any other place car goes, it is rarely out of my sight, ie: ice cream stand, car meets.
Damn these lugs are soooo light. One of the cheapos is much heavier than four 949 lugs. Many weight savings. Such bonus.
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They're pretty too and match the 949 6ul wheels and the 949 valves.
The seat on them is much wider than the cheapo lugs. I like.
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Nice! I was always a bit worried about durability in alloy wheel nuts, but a lot of guys seem to vouch for those!
I imagine over time and many on - off cycles from wheel changes and extensive track abuse may take a toll on them but for what this car is used for there should not be any issues.
Emilio seems to know his stuff when it comes to wheels and things that touch wheels. Ill trust him.
I have these and they are top notch - definitely an improvement from your old lug nuts!
That's what surprised me too, the weight. They feel uncomfortably light, but have been great for ~50k miles so far.
HAHAH good way to put it...uncomfortably. The large conical seat is a huge improvement over my old ones.
One thing, I wish 949 offered the same lugs but with a closed end. oh well. Still happy.
No you just need ARP extended wheel studs....why? Because racecar. :slayer: Seriously though I think they are just as much a safety item because if you put them on but forget to tighten, which stud is going to lose the nut first? Obviously the oem ones. The ARP studs are almost a inch longer than oem studs, iirc.
As far as the 949 Racing forged aluminum lug nuts are concerned, they are forged so pretty durable. The biggest issue is cross threading them since they will be more likely to cross thread against the studs, especially the ARP studs. I had the same set on two different Miata's over almost a 4 year period with no issues. :)
Adam wrote a blog post about different lug nuts. Fun read.
http://revlimiter.net/blog/2012/05/l...ug-nut-review/
Shot these photos while on break waiting for my phone to get service. Working right on top of Niagara Falls, phones like to bounce between US and Canadian phone carriers.
Figured Id post them in my "build" thread as well.
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Well done on the gauge pods!! And thanks for the lugnut link. I need to take more toy pix. I've not done that in a while.
My parents and I have been apart of a local Miata club for the Western NY and Niagara region for over a decade now. My father has his own Miata, a 2012 NC. And my mother a 2004 NB.
These days I am rarely off from work and child-free so I haven't made it to any club events or drives in quite some time.
Today I had an open afternoon while my mother watched my son. My father and I joined the local Miata club for a nice drive to get some lunch at a local brewery after a somewhat spirited drive. I think 9 cars went. 2 NBS. 1 ND. My car was the only NA. Less than a handful of NAs are even in the club these days. My father's NC is probably the 2nd most 'modded" car in the club behind mine. It's basically a club of 70 yr old retired couples with NCs that talk about license plate frames. Im the youngest member at age 31. All great people, but no one really talks about CARS and doing things to cars.
Backroads today were nice. But some were scattered with pot holes. NY roads are not the greatest.
Just a few miles from the destination the lead car, an NC, hit a pot hole hidden on the crest of a hill that punctured the side wall of the tire. Stranded NC. No spare. Tire inflator did nothing for the sidewall slash. AAA had to be called.
Here are some photos from today while the NC was down. It was a good chance to take some photos.
Father and Son.
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Everyone has to confirm that the tire is flat.
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Yup, it is flat.
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Flat tire is flat.
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Lined up.
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Father and son again.
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My car.
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Interior shot.
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Holy shit, you're a more patient man than I. And you weren't joking about them being retirees, geez. Man, talk about your NC stereotypes. Not sure I could putt along out back in that pack.
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Fresh wash.
And as a throwback Thursday here are some photos of my first Miata at its peak point before it got disassembled and then traded for a VW and replaced with my current car.
Very similar yo my current car. Just not as nice. This is going back to 2010. On a college kid budget. Actually bought the turbo kit from a guy on m.net and he let me pay him in payments via paypal until kit was paid for. Crazy to think about.
Begi s1 turbo kit
Megasquirt
Autokonexion v1.5 trunk
TDR splitter
Front and rear sways
1.6 dash swap
Drag dr-20 wheels
Bride reps and a Sparco sprint 5
A lot of parts ended up swapping over.
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I learned a lot from his car. A lot of what to do and what not to do. Got this car in 2004 and it went through several transformations before this final stage.
Funny to me now that my current car looks very similar to this car. And Id like to continue to make it similar to this one.
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Been slacking lately.
Hoping to get my clock and voltmeter wired in tomorrow.
Also would like to get my mini amp wired in and get rid of my head unit.
A small project I worked on tonight is fixing my glove box. When I cut the dash / crash pad area I had to remove the glove box to get to a hidden screw. In the process, the hinge tab broke and I noticed the top portion of the glove box itself had a 8 inch crack going almost all the way from the top edge to the bottom.
I used some epoxy and a strip of styrene plastic to keep it sturdy and strong.
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Jb weld was sloppily applied to the hinge tab area. Itll be hidden.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a82928520b.jpg
I plan on covering the inside and the edges of the glove box with a felt-like material to eliminate rattles that tend to come from that area. Thats for another day. Would also like to do that shotgun gauge panel in theret.
Next project will be mounting my LE speaker panels. This means new door cards.
Any one have experience with the faux leather (non-quilted) panels from Carbon Miata? If they match the factory vinyl, $99 for a set is a good deal.
Otherwise Ill go with the ebay "forever" miata door panels and have to recover them myself. These panels make it easy to mount the LE panels. But id have to buy more vinyl and some closed-cell foam, so this route would be more money than the CM set. And Id have to trace the pattern and gut and glue/staple. Ugh.
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Now that my interior is just about where I have always dreamed of it being, it is time to shift focus on other areas of the car.
Looking to improve the look inside the engine bay and improve performance.
Today I had about an hour to myself before work so got some minor things done.
I removed the hood struts. For some reason they like to push up on the hood when it is closed so it doesn't sit flush. I left the strut mounting points attached for the times I need the hood open. Dont really need the struts when the hood is closed most of the time lol
I removed the Garage Star rad panel. It is a nice piece but I like the TDR piece more and it is black. The GS will be up for sale and replaced by a TDR piece. Anyone need a GS rad panel?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d32cd01a84.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7997619b97.jpg
Makes contact with the latch :(
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4adba29314.jpg
Finally got around to painting my RetroModern plug wire cover. Sprayed it with some truck bed liner then with some cheap rattle can black. It will do the trick for now. Hopefully black will work with whatever next valve cover color is.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...112057dee2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...423730a608.jpg
Engine bay improvement plan for the next couple months involves:
TDR rad panel
Mishimoto radiator, fans, new hoses.
Circuit sports or Moroso coolant overflow tank. Because pretty.
Shock tower brace. FM for $200 or NB for $120? Hmmmm....
Replace purple valve cover with something more subdued. Maybe a light blue or white to match the car? Any opinions? Anyone want to buy a purple powdercoated VC?
Drove it the other night and took this photo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5909565ddf.jpg
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1. I'm interested in the rad panel :D
2. NB brace, or even better a 3-point brace.
3. For VC I saw this on FB and kinda liked it, not sure it will fit your theme, though. Just an idea.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2cac62848e.jpg
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Make an offer for the panel. Shipping may be pricey lol
Ive read the 3 point brace doesn't do much compared to 2 point. Ill do some more research.
That VC looks awesome. I like the exposed cam gear look but that means ill need new prettier cam gears and more $$$
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Actually I've read exactly the opposite about tower braces, haha.
Sending you PM.
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Ok been away on vacation for a bit. Some parts were waiting for me when I got home.
Forever door panels. I can finally install my LE speaker panels. Will need to get some foam and some vinyl.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...252df04d67.jpg
JDM side repeaters. Not a bad deal for $40 on ebay. Been wanting these or a more stylish/expensive brand for years.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...01ef8f5a82.jpg
And since I wasnt 100% pleased with the Garage Star slider knobs, I got a set from Jass Performance.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...daa3ab68ef.jpg
First thought is seeing if the slider knobs match the GS fan dial and ac button and combining the two sets. If they dont work well together, Ill use the full Jass set. I think theyll work well with the Revlimiter ac ring and vent rings
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Wait I thought that was a fidget spinner :P
Good score on parts mate! Oh, and if anyone else wants fender repeaters, let me know, sure I can source some pretty easily.
Have had a fee minutes today to fiddle with the Miata. Was able to install the Jass Ac slider knobs.
Here is the Jass set on top and Garage Star set below. The Garage Star set is much more significant. The Ac button and dial actually replaces the OEM unit while the Jass button and dial are mere covers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...78ec025f52.jpg
Here are the same sets just flipped upside down. Notice how Jass set are slide-on covers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a974fd0c6.jpg
Being slide on covers the Jass ac dial and button aren't my cup of tea. The button cover doesn't go on the button all the way without modification. And the Ac dial needs something to hold it onto the OEM dial. Not ideal in my opinion.
I prefer the GS dial and knob.
The Jass sliders are nice. They match thr GS dial and knob very well and also match my Revlimiter ac ring and vent rings. The slider knobs have a wide opening and fit over the oem levers very nicely. And they tighten up snug with provided allen key.
The GS slider knobs are machined so close that quite a bit of sanding and filing of the OEM lever was required to get them to fit...and they still werent on all the way. Not ideal.
So I ended up combining both sets and I am happy with how it turned out.
Of course forgot to take a photo of them installed. Ugh.
Here is the GS dial and knob with Jass slider knobs. Quite nice. Finally satisfied with the HVAC control area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68226963e1.jpg
Then I began tackling my door panels. Finally getting to install my LE speaker panels and complete my interior.
A trip to JoAnn fabrics and $75 later I was on my way. Got some "home foam" (closed crll type) and some black vinyl.
Got the foam pattern cut out and the vinyl pattern cut out. Ive covered several door panels over the years so I thought I was smooth sailing. Nope. Not this time.
The foam I got was too thick. Ugh! I got 1/4" instead 1/8". The LE panels wouldn't sit properly. It would not work. I didnt want to scrap the foam as it was $50 and I prefer to have a bit of a barrier between the AbS door card and the vinyl. I have to make it work.
Why not use the foam everywhere except where the LE panels will be? Wouldn't be too complicated. Contact cement seemed to be working well. So I used the speaker panel as a guide and traced the foam and cut it to match the curves of the panel.
Its not going to be perfect but I should be able to make it look like a pretty nice accident.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cdabf4615f.jpg
Shows the edge covered in vinyl
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7d2fde6a82.jpg
Should be what it looks like once panel is screw onto backing plate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...449de13a4c.jpg
Now I am short a few special OEM screws that hold the panel on but hex head bolts from Garage Star engine dress up kits match the panel pretty well. Ive got plenty of those laying around. Should work out well when its all done.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...028e6ea866.jpg
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Double update! Was able to get one panel completely finished tonight.
Despite the issues/mistakes during the process, I am pleased with the results.
I will see how it fits on the car tomorrow and report back. Fingers crossed no issues!
The abs forever panel, 1/4" thick foam and the speaker panel really make this door car feel substantial. Quite hefty.
Garage Star engine bay bolts tightened down pretty snug while making their own thread in the plastic. Once both panels are done and sorted I'll hit the bolt heads with a sander and remove the letters.
Here are the completed photos.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3752d6eaf2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7f923fd003.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8adff9bd8c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e2f580f342.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85296d6e7b.jpg
Now to start the passenger side.
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That panel looks NICE!
Thanks Harry! Surprised myself even lol
Took some modifications to fit it to the car. The thickness of the abs panel and the Le speaker panel backer panels make kt tough for sone of the clips to hold the panel on where the speaker is.
Using some double sided tape should hold it for now until I take it back off and modify it some more.
The GS bolts need to be shortened a bit too.
Here it is installed with all the jewelry attached.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5859ff7ddd.jpg
And is the installed HVAC stuff.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...922a66ab10.jpg
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Used father's day to get some time with my dad and work on the Miata. Finally got the clock and voltmeter wired up.
So stoked on this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7b331e62f5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...10ca9c5be7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6173967dd1.jpg
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Looks soooo good! These pics of yours remind me why I need an NA at some point.
That interior is looking schmick!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...afae5207d8.jpg
Thank you!
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Bit of aussie slang for ya Paul :)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schmick
Decided to start on the passenger side fender repeater today.
Was only going to tape and measure...
Little Man cooperated with me in the garage and played with his cars very contently.
Before I knew it the fender was taped. Measuring tape was out. Center was marked. Pattern from the gasket was transferred to the fender. Then there was a hole in my car. Then a bigger hole. Suddenly the Dremel and cutting discs were out and this oddly shaped ameba shaped hole was in my door.
Marker is in and holds pretty snug with the gasket and clip. Hole is not pretty and an area is a bit too large/not shaped quite right but whatever. Imperfections will be hidden by the signal itself and will be sealed by the gasket and some sort of sealing compound upon final install. Will also use some primer/rust proof paint to seal the metal.
Not going to wire it in yet so install is not finalized. One day when i remove the fender to realign doors a little better Ill wire them in. Thats a larger project for another day.
Driver's side is measured, taped up, and hole is marked. Ready to go tomorrow. Learned my lesson on the passenger side so driver's side should turn out almost perfect.
Really like how the marker looks now that it is installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7da2d360e3.jpg
Has anyone sanded the letters off these and made them smooth?
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Fantastic work as usual Paul! :drinkto: I haven't sanded down the side winkers but I did do all the side marker lights and front turn signals on Warbird and although subtle, it is something that makes a very nice visual difference to the keen observer.
I first used 500 grit, then 1000 grit, then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit sand paper....all being done wet sanding. Then I used polishing compound and finally carnauba wax to obtain the following results:
Before:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pselh2xybc.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps1mrnkiac.jpg
After:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps7yczjmgi.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psrv6phylc.jpg
Hope the info and pics help! :D
Thank you for the kind words! And thank you for the reminder about what sand paper grits I need.
Im curious about sanding the JDM fender marker because I haven't read about any being sanded or seen any without the letters. Maybe people sand them and dont mention it haha
All the other lenses on my car have been wet sanded, buffed and polished. It is such a satisfying process. I Love the look. Ive watched other miata enthusiasts stare at my OEM taillights trying to figure out what they are and why they look so much better / different than non-sanded lights. Sanding and polishing them make them look so much darker and deeper red. And no letters to catch dirt, wax, etc
Guess Ill need to make a trip to Harbor freight tomorrow and get some sand paper lol
Also now I need to order the RS turn signal ring...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...97fe0c61f2.jpg
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Driver's side is on!
This side went much easier. I didnt fiddle with making hole perfect. Made it large enough top to bottom and round enough so all edges would fit. Then made sure the left side clipped in and then the right.
Also a keen eye may notice that they're actually approx 1/4" forward than what all the instructions called for. 4 & 5/8" wasnt labeled on my tape measure so I went with 4 & 3/4" it was. Lol
No one will ever notice !
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...90601ac8cd.jpg
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Received my Track Dog Racing order today.
Replaced my GS radiator panel with the TDR unit. I like the black better than the brushed aluminum. The TDR seems to fit better in the latch area. Used the GS dress up hardware to mount it securely.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...93b794248c.jpg
Test fitted the Shot Gun panel in the glove box. I hAve wanted one of these since R2limited made them. Glad that TDR sells the old stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c14265f8bb.jpg
Not sure what gauge will go here at the moment but Im thinking the AFR gauge will eventually go here. May even add another hole for another monitoring device when turbo happens.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08df1bc788.jpg
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Today was the day I got motivated to finish the passenger side door panel.
I was surprised how well the driver's side came out given issues I had to overcome that were my own fault. It made me nervous that I wouldn't be able to repeat the success and thus wasn't motivated to attack the passenger side.
The driver's side still needs some adjustments to make it 100% so Ill take what I learned and apply to pax side.
I was patient. Cut the foam backer. Mounted it. Then waited a few days. Traced and cut the vinyl. Then waited a few days. Glued the vinyl to the flat part of the panel. Then waited a few days.
Tonight was the night to get it glued and see if it matched the driver's side.
Here is the result. Quite pleased. Surprised myself again.
Adjustments still need to be made to the backing panel to get the front-bottom clip to clip into the door properly. And I may cut the black speaker grille into its own circular piece and attach it directly to the metal front panel. The thickness of the abs door card make it so the speaker grille sits inward too far. It doesnt look bad, bit it could look much better.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f6a4e9a3b.jpg
Comparison:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...339896268b.jpg
Cant wait to get the door tops on and put then on the car.
During the waiting game for contact cement to become tacky I did some sanding to my recently installed JDM fender winkers.
The letters are cool. They say "japan" and some other JDM specific things. But the letters, like on the OEM taillights and corner markers, collect dirt and wax. It doesn't look good.
Each lense took exactly 15 minutes. Wet sanded with 400 then 1000 then 3000. Used my headlight polishing kit that was laying around. It came with the extra fine sanding pads, plastic polish/protectant compound and a special buffing padfor a drill. They both could use a few more minutes with the 3000 grit and a re-buff but I think they came out great.
Before -wax and dirt in the letters.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6366b80fad.jpg
After- super smooth and clean.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...099385d8c8.jpg
Comparo:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7643c53535.jpg
Then it was time to secure the shotgun gauge panel.
Even though There is no time frame to install a gauge there, Id still like the panel to be fitted securely without rattles. Tonight was a good night to get it mounted and figure out how the wiring would work.
It came with 3 tiny screws. Right away I didn't think these would be ideal. They didn't seem like they'd be strong enough. And the glove box is old and fragile. The plastic can crack easily. Also didn't like the idea of the screws poking through into the panel.
So some holes were marked and drilled. I attempted to use the screws. Glove box cracked. Ugh. Time to figure out a better way to mount this. 10mm nuts & bolts could work and I had plenty laying around in my bucket-o-bolts. Then rolled out. Plastic screw, washer and nut combo. BOOM! This would be perfect.
A few minutes searching and there were three full plastic sets. Perfect. If i remember correctly, these came from an old TDR splitter I had back on my old Miata. The black plastic will blend in to the glove box. The plastic nut & bolt can be tightened snug and not damage or crush anything. The washers are wider in diameter and thicket to spread the load over larger area; protecting the fragile plastic. Great find. High five to me!
So some larger holes were carefully drilled into the glove box. And the holes in the panel's mounting tabs enlarged. Plastic fasteners tightened. Panel is in.
Then to figure out how the wires would exit out of the glove box....another hole was needed. Drilled another hole and then used the step bit to make it about 1" wide. Plenty of wiring can fit through.
Plastic screw .
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da42cae5d3.jpg
Secure.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...20b08d67b7.jpg
Hole in the back for wiring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ad4c644e40.jpg
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Side winkers turned out really nice, Paul! :slayer:
Great little details is what matters most. Convinced to shave mine as well!
It is funny how my tastes and preferences change during the years Ive owned a Miata.
This season I have gotten a bit tired of the side skirts. The left side started to become misshaped and deformed. It was getting annoying having to avoid them while getting in and out of the car. My son climbs in and out of the car 100 times a day and he likes to use them as a step. No good.
Today was the time for them to go. Quick easy task that took half hour and my son was able to help.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9829800c6d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7bfcf7dc2e.jpg
Car looks much better without it. Looks less low somehow and not as saggy. Much more in line with the OEM plus theme.
My fenders near the lips have some imperfections from dents and such. Im thinking fender flares can hide them :)
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those 6UL's are awesome but man, a set of bronze watanabe's would look great against a chaste white NA!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...94a095d734.jpg
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Please please do not trade 6ULs for Rotas.
Trust me it does pain me to say that but this is the look Id like to achieve
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e60f9de4a4.jpg
Mike Gaite's (sp?) roadster has been a roadster muse of mine for several years now.
A 15x9 6ul would atill need a large spacer to obtain this look.
Custom Watanabes would be sooo much money.
I know I want flares and nice looking wheels to fill the space. A 15x9 Et0 is the ticket.
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How about 6UL Zeros? 15x8, +0 offset. Within half-inch fender/flare fitment as the Rota RKR, but 8in width so easier to live with.
14x8 -6 is starting to look very attractive ;) always liked how your car looked with them.
Here is my line of thought with the 15x8 +0 6uls...i have had 15x8 et36 wheels for about 6 years now. Ive ways ran them with 17mm and 19mm spacers. So I guess Id like a significant change if i were to stick with a 6ul so it doesnt feel like I didnt change anything. Odd i know. so 15x9 would have to be. But then id still have to run a spacer. Kinda over having to run a spacer.
Tell me more about your Wats... how long do they take to arrive stateside after ordering? Crazy that 4 Wats with tires will cost more than my car cost.
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Me honestly, I love the look of Wats over 6ULs. RKRs aren't bad either. I would hope its wheels and cash for the 6ULs.
I have wanted harness slots in my Elise seats since they were installed in my car. Probably even longer than that.
My roll bar puts the stock seat belt guide in the way of the seat and does not allow it to go all the way back kind of a bummer. Those 2 inches of legroom is much needed.
A way to solve this is using a harness.
Sector111 has been sold out of Elise seat harness slots for months.
Some google searching found MSAR, a UK distributor of racing items sells the elise harness slots.
So early in June I placed an order with MSAR. Got no order number, no confirmation, no email. No replies to my emails.Nothing. So I waited. Figuring "whelp there goes my money".
Nothing arrived in the mail. In the meantime I placed another order with them and got a confirmation. Woo! Still no tracking or email for either.
Then today I receive my order from early June. Looks like Ill have two sets of harness slots, enough for both seats eventually.
Was able to get one installed today.
Adam's blog post helped a ton.
Next one should go much smoother.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bb7d09c4fd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cb4a875d3f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...749596f1f0.jpg
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Some shots while on break at work.
Foot steps away from the ugliest, ghettoest part of Niagara Falls. Foot steps aways from the most beautiful scenery in the world.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3f62f5f392.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e4a9336db3.jpg
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Finished up putting the harness slots in my passenger seat and installing my Willans harness.
I will be using this seat at the driver's seat temporarily. The center material and cushion on this one isn't quite as nice as the other seat.
Was also a good seat to learn how and where to install the harness slots.
And of course the harness slot I installed today is not quite the same location as the other one. :( oh well. Cant be perfect. May attempt to adjust location when the other seat gets the slots installed.
After learning from the left slot I made a template. It worked very well. Was able to get hole sized perfectly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f24b91b7a8.jpg
Used the rotary tool with reinforced cut off discs to make all the cuts. Then tried the sanding drum....one sheared off in seconds. Quick trip to harbor freight and I picked up these rotary rasps for $6
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a51fb3502.jpg
That cylindrical shaped bit worked wonders on the fiberglass. Easy to use with a electric drill. Made quick, easy work on the fiberglass shell.
If anyone is looking to install these harness slots in Lotus seats, buy these bits.
So theyre a bit off. Oh well. Will be passenger seat and not scrutinized as much once installed in the car. Eventually theyll be reupholstered and Ill fix it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b68016c166.jpg
Lessons learned for the next set of slots when they arrive.
Unbolted the stock seatbelt. Seat can move all the way back now. So much more leg room when seat is not hindered by seat belt guide.
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Then wrapped my Willans harness Ive had for a few years around the harness bar.
Not too happy with where the left shoulder harness meets the bar on an angle but it will do for now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4225068b5d.jpg
Certainly feels like a race car now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eeb86a568b.jpg
Most of this is all temporary. I do prefer the OEM seatbelt. Will eventually buy a newer/new oem belt and reel when I can invest in a Blackbird Fabworx roll bar that allows for full seat movement and better location for Oem belt guide.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b7905aff7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e58f32f6b8.jpg
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So I picked up a Carbon Miata bumper duct from a fellow member.
In preparation for incoming bumper duct, my revlimiter Elanore nose badge needed to be removed. I feel the duct and the badge would be too much for the nose. (Once duct is installed I may decide a smaller badge could work, we shall see)
The nose badge would look nice on the rear of the car. One day I will have a RX3/RX2 Mazda badge back there but revlimiters badge will work just fine until then.
So i removed the chrome Mazda emblem off the rear of the car. It left two holes. I used some bumper repair epoxy and filled both holes. Covered the left hole with the revlimiter badge.
Once epoxy was dry on the right hole I wet sanded it smooth. Ended up sanding through some paint as well. Oh well. Will need to order some matching 1990 white paint but I can cover the spot with some hobby paint for now. Many moons from now the whole car will get a repaint and any minor issues will be fixed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba69b0d1ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...97f010fd4d.jpg
Nose ready for bumper duct.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd9021e17b.jpg
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The duct is here. Now to figure out where to mount it and how.
Thanks Miataquest for a great deal and super fast shipping.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b8088659ab.jpg
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Was it really $45 plus s/h or was that a typo? :|
Wow what a deal!
For budget ducts, hole saws are your friend; add some 3D printed trumpets on the inside if you are so inclined! :D
Jokes aside, that was a good deal. And I really like the badge on the rear!
Today was a good Miata day.
Many thanks to Rene (Miata quest) for the great prices and crazy fast shipping on the valve cover and Carbon Miata bumper duct.
Valve cover went on without a hiccup. Realized I need a new gasket so Ill order one and when it arrives Ill paint the recessed letter. Maybe Ill get some dress up bolts too.
Before. Weird purple.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...54049b079b.jpg
After.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...563b6514ca.jpg
While the VC was off I dremeled some material on the plug wire cover where it was hitting the Oil cap. No more issues there. Was able to save the revlimiter oil cap insert and reposition it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc38956eed.jpg
Then I decided to tackle the CarbonMiata bumper duct. Of course, no directions or templates of where to cut or how or anything came with the duct.
Spent some time last night and filled major imperfections with some filler and sanded it all smooth. Then used some white krylon I had on hand to coat it with some white. Not a perfect match but it will do the job. It is close enough to 27 year old paint on my beat up front bumper.
Cut the hole. Used a utility knife. It made quick work of the bumper. My paper templates were pretty much useless. I wanted the duct as low as it could fit so after cutting a hole I found the bumper support and cut along that then used that as a reference for the rest of the opening.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d3be6bf0f0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aaebc97648.jpg
Nerve-wracking. Eventually the whole car will be re-painted but cut a hole too big? Cant fix that lol dont have a spare bumper.
After much cutting and many test fits the duct was in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fb3ec107c5.jpg
Now to secure it. Contacted a friend who is much better with details than me. He had a rivet gun. Perfect. Quick drive to his place, some ocd measuring, some holes drilled, quick trip to Lowes for longer rivets and it was installed.
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Holy shit I am stoked. It looks so good (in my opinion). Was skeptical about this CM duct as I feel the Brightning one looks better. Or so I thought. Also didnt think a bumper duct would look good on a white car. I was wrong. I love the look. So happy.
I think the aggressiveness of the front bumper the car needs the GV style front lip back on as well as fender flares.
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Looks good man!
It's evolving with every page. Great work Paul!
Wow, you work fast!
GV replica lip went on today. So pleased with how this all came out.
Really wish my bumper was in better condition.
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Looks good! I like it that way. Maybe add canards, since you go for flares too?
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Today was a great day. Went to the gun range for work. Shot lead down range. Worked with the tazer. Wife wanted to hangout with my son and sister-in-law. I had free time to play with the Miata and ride my bike. It was a good day.
Bike in Miata. Passenger seat is out waiting for the other set of harness grommets.
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I dont think Ive enjoyed either of my miatas as much as I do this car as it currently sits. (Turbo in my last car was great but had tons of unresolvable irritating hiccups).
The bumper duct had me skeptical and looking for a replacement bumper before the install was even finished. Wasnt sure if Id like it. Now that it is in, I LOVE it. It makes the cute, soft, jelly bean front fascia into something aggressive and race-inspired. But it doesnt look out of place in my opinion. Very OEM+ which is what Im going for. So glad I cut it up and l didnt mess it up. Now if only previous owner didnt have the OeM license plate holder installed that left dimples in the bumper. Oh well.
So I took the long way between skateparks. Drove along the Niagara river that separates Grand Island NY and Canada. Stopped at a rest area to snap some crappy phone photos.
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Need to figure out how and where to do a proper photo shoot.
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After a hot, sweaty drive this weekend I have decided to purchase vent window(s) for the miata.
Question for you all....
Which quarter vent window is preferred?
Looking to place an order this weekend.
So Project G??
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or
MiataRoadster?
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Only difference seems that the MiataRoadster version puts the vent higher to direct air more to the face. Maybe better for legit racecars where drivers need air to the helmet. Not quite sure I need air directly to my face, just air into the cockpit.
I am leaning towards the Project G version just based on aesthetic....i like the look of the vent in the lower corner.
Thinking of only doing the driver side.
Does anyone have experience with either? Appears to be same material and vent.
Thanks!
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I decided on the Project G vent window after some advice on instagram from Eric. Only one side was ordered. If it works well I may grab the other side.
The window arrived today and it got installed. Took a couple hours. And an 8 hour break while I was at work. Removal of oem window and actually getting the G vent in place wasnt hard at all.
Getting the gaskets all fitted properly and the window guide upright in proper positioning took some effort to get it all aligned.
Fingers crossed that nothing leaks. Guess its more reason to drive this car only on perfectly nice days.
I am very pleased with how it looks. The vent in the lower corner is aesthetically pleasing. The vent can be rotated so there should be no problem getting air to my sweaty face, abdomen or swamp ass area.
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(Ignore the shirtless reflection. It was humid in my garage tonight.)
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Thanks Eric for the recommendation and advice!!
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The last few days I've contemplated going to a different window in my hardtop. Mine has a defroster that I dont use nor do i plan on using. Rather than trying to source a color matched hard top with a non-defrost window, a lexan window may be the ticket.
ie: Project G G shield
I like the way the G Shield mounts and the available vents for it look amazing . So I may order one of those up after I work some overtime.
In the meantime I was curious how the top would look without the dark tint. Tint has been on since 2013 when I got the car to match the top lol.
3 minutes of online research and off came the tint. Came off easy in 3 large pieces. Much residue is left. Will tackle that tomorrow.
Before:
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After:
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Im digging the see-through look. Guess it helps when your interior is kinda cool looking.
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You may want to consider finding a trade w/ cash on top. Hardtops w/ defrosters are worth a pretty penny.
Post it up for trade, I'm sure there's gotta be someone in your area interested
Another easy bolt on arrived today.
Circuit Sports coolant overflow tank via GarageStar....via Circuit Sports.
Had to gently bend each tab a little bit to get it fitting properly. Will need to find some extra tubing to route it under the headlight; just preference.
Huge improvement over my OEM painted tank.
Before:
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After:
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So the "build" thread has been slow lately. The process of buying a house with a nice space for Miatae makes buying Miata parts far and few between.
In my tight budget I bought some new hood prop rods from Flyin Miata when I saw they were back in stock. They're a re-labeled IL motorsport kit. It seems anything sold by FM is of high standards so I felt good about this kit.
Kit installed easily. Measured and marked holes to be drilled. Drilled holes. Tapped holes. Removed two GarageStar engine bay dress up fender bolts. Inserted strut ball ends. Hooked it all up. Closed and open hood 10 times.
Hood opens by itself nicely. Closes with ease. Hood opens much farther than my old rspeed kit(s) and waaaay farther than OEM prop rod.
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Very happy with this kit.
Only negative I have is the Flyin Miata decal.
Im being nit-picky here but I really wish this logo would have been engraved on there. The decals aren't straight and are peeling a bit straight out of the box. A Laser engraved logo would have been the perfect touch even is it would add a few bucks to price.
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I didnt want to lose the GS dressup fender bolts and washers so I repurposed them on the coolant tank. Need to get more of these for the engine bay. They really clean things up.
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Sorry for crappy pics it was getting dark.
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Back corners of the hood stick up any further/sit any higher when closed than before the gas struts?
Also, another way of looking at FM's cheapness of using stickers to rebrand someone else's product, is that they're easily removed for a cleaner look.
Great idea with reusing the fender bolts for the coolant tank. I got RSpeed hood struts and took out some fender bolts too. Think I'll do the same as you.
Tinkered with the car for a bit today to find the sources of some ugly noises.
Had an exhaust/heat shield rattle the last few times Ive driven the car. Quick look at the exhaust shows the rear shield had broken off at the rear. A few twists and jt came right off. Problem solved.
Then to fix some right tire front rubbing issues. Lately, left hand turns have produced a loud rubbing noise. Trimmed some of the inner fender liner away. That should solve that noise.
And for those who were wondering about hood alignment with the FlyinMiata/IL hood struts...
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The last couple months have had me packing up stuff to move out of our house and into my parents house temporarily until we close on the new house.
Needless to say my garage was a shit show as things got packed up. Not sure if I ever posted this but a baby stroller had fallen onto the rear of my car and broke the taillight, leaving a hole about 3" wide. I had some red transparent vinyl that I placed over the hole so it wouldn't look awful and the car could still be driven; temporary fix.
Hole.
Attachment 17261
Red vinyl temporary fix.
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Internet searches brought me to poor condition taillights for $50-100. Ugh. Decent condition prices weren't much better. It finally came time to fork up the cash and get a replacement taillight. Found a good condition light for $70 shipped. The light arrived last night and today it was time to install.
But you cant just install a Miata taillight. They're in the Museum of Modern Art for Christ's sake! They demand and deserve love and attention.
https://www.moma.org/interactives/ex.../plastics.html
So today the new light got the same attention as the old light got (and all other lenses on the car). Wet sanding the letters and crud off. Then buffing and polishing them.
New light
Attachment 17263
Wet sanding
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Tools of the trade (sandpaper excluded)
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all done.
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Before and after. So much cleaner, nicer and brighter.
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Nice! Much better shaved!:slayer: There are/were some Simpson Design taillights on m.net for $250, just saying. :winky:
After seeing and wanting the RetroModern ignition cover I finally bit the bullet and ordered one.
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It replaces my Zeromotive ring. As nice as the Zeromotive piece is, it looks and feels like an afterthought. It doesn't look as nice as the RM piece.
Zeromotive:
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The RM piece took some trimming of the plastic cover and some fine sanding to the inner ring and ignition itself to get it to all fit. Once on it looks incredible and as if it came from the factory.
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Was out in the garage today and realized I never installed my Raceland header I picked up last year.
I had been putting it off thinking I needed new gaskets and hardware and also from research I was worried about fitment issues.
Today I said to myself "if the nuts come loose Ill see how far I can get."
Well 4 of the 8 nuts holding the stock manifold took very very minimal effort to remove. The other 4 took barely more effort than the first 4. The hardware connecting my racepipe to the stock manifold were installed last year and came off easy. The support bracket bolt came off quickly.
In 15 minutes it was ready to come out.
Gaskets were salvaged.
Upon install of Raceland header the support bracket attached to tranny had to be removed for it to slide in nicely.
Bolted it all in. Success! No fitment issues. No rubbing.
Finished some MAF issues in darkness so here are some potato photos.
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My quest to improve the engine bay continues.
The car has its original radiator. Its is changing color quickly. It will stop working any day now.
The time came to order a radiator. Wanted something that will help cool the stock motor and also be a nice upgrade to work with the eventual turbo install. Didnt need anything too large or overkill. Also wanted easy install/stock fitment and fan fitment with possibility for fan upgrade. Looks is important too.
Chose this Mishimoto. Best price was from an ebay dealer with free shipping. $240. Will eventually order the slim fan and shroud kit that is available for it.
Great looking piece. It feels significant. Cant wait to install.
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Not to rain on anyone's parade but for that price I would have gone CSF. :oops: They are a rising star and very good reputation.
Not say Mishimoto was a bad choice but I have read enough issues with some of their products(especially their fans) to make ME hesitate. My apologies if I I'm coming off as judgemental or miatachurbo-ish.:shocked: Just my humble opinion. :?
Its all good. You're entitled to your opinion. Good thing it's my build haha only looking to please myself. (Pun intended)
I like the look of the Mishi better. CSF looked too blingy for my taste.
Plus I doubt Ill ever notice the difference performance-wise between brands I was considering (koyo,mishi,csf). My old ebay rad and fans on my last turbo car performed nicely so I imagine this name-brand will be even better.
Csf would have shipping on top of 257 rad price.
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Today was a day of engine bay projects big and small.
Got the radiator installed. Had to trim the stock fan shrouds to clear the large front sway bar. The stock fans are temporary until I order the Mishimoto fans and shroud.
Other than the trimming of shroud the install went smoothly. It looks so good.
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When I installed the Carbon Miata bumper duct I realized the stock horn was now visible from the front. And it was ugly. The radiator panel was off for radiator install and saw it was easy to get to that ugly horn. Off it came. It was replaced by an inexpensive Wolo horn I picked up at Advance Auto for $15. Hardly a difference in sound but it looks much better. Will do the job until I feel like tackling Hellas.
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Then It was time to improve the valve cover. Those indented letters in the 1.6 vc needed some love. I chose a gloss blue Testors model paint and found a clever bottle device to allow the paint to be placed in the letters cleanly.
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A syringe?
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Found this at hobby lobby. Worked well
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Last weekend I attended a local car show put on by the MG car club. The MG guys have always been nice to us Miata guys. Crappy weather held people out but since only 2 other Miatas showed up I decided to park and enter for fun. Ended up getting 1st over two stock Miatas. One was a super clean '91 and the other a 25th anniversary edition.
The Miata class.
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This happened mid-show.
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Plaque.
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After the show I started thinking. Ive contemplated removing my A/C for a while. It blows air just as warm as the fan. Here in western NY there are less than a handful of days that require A/C in a convertible. A/C needs to go.
The plans began for removing A/C. To get to the A/C pieces the power steering needs to be moved.
So I contemplated totally removing power steering for a while. Much research. Many youtubes. I decided on a properly de-powered rack. This week/weekend the power steering came out and power assist removed.
Plenty of miata forum posts helped. Flyin Miata directions helped. TheCarPassionChannel helped.
What about the A/C you say? I am meeting a local guy who will remove the freon from the car tomorrow to get that part going.
Rack removed.
Attachment 17404
Steering pump removed.
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Pinion welded
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MiataRoadster plugs for all the lines.
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Alignment.
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Then on the way home from alignment the car his the 100,000 miles milestone. Just getting started.
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From the short drive home the steering really feels good. It is tough (as a car with no power steering would feel) at very slow speeds. Id say under 5mph its regrettable haha But once moving over 5mph it really is nice. Direct input. Takes a little effort but it feels great. I doubt Id ever do it again to a Miata but Im happy I did it.
Next will be the A/C.
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You probably need to decrease caster as that will help with the steering effort at low speeds, iirc, non power steering Miata's are supposed to have the caster at around 4.5 degrees while power steering Miata's are supposed to be at around 5.5 degrees.
Yup...more information here:
"Caster
More caster can help mid to low speed turn in, makes steering heavier, may increase wheelspin in very low speed turns with a Torsen or open type differential. Higher caster values will increase stering effort. Lower values reduce steering effort. If running power steering, go for caster settings above 3.5°. If running manual or depowered rack, lower caster can reduce steering effort. The Miata platform likes caster greater than 3.5°. Balance that against the steering effort you prefer. Running caster beloow about 2° can result in very vage steering with little or no self centering force."
http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
Thank you for that info. Thats amazing. Wish I knew that going into the alignment today so I could have given them more specifics.
Today's alignment was just a quick "save me" bandaid alignment to fix the toe-in/out issues after disconnecting tie rod ends and losing my reference points.
Today made the car driveable for the next month or so until it goes into storage/winter tear down mode. On the list of items for the winter are new coil overs and R package tie rod ends. Then new alignment in April. And I will bring all the specifics.
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So its been over a month since I had an update. Far too long.
This update comes after having some cooling issues with the Miata.
I noticed walking to my car one day after work that there was fluid on the ground near my right front tire. I immediately assumed it was coolant and a quick sniff and taste confirmed it. Popped the hood and the overflow tank was empty and radiator was down a bit. Temps on the way to work seemed normal so I figured Id drive it home.
Got a few miles and temps seemed good. It was a cool night and I realized there was steam coming from under the hood. A lot of steam. And the smell of coolant. Not good. Pulled into a gas station and popped the hood. The coolant hose near the steering shaft had a hole in it and was spewing coolant onto the header, steering shaft and the left side of the engine bay. Like, pissing coolant. NOT good.
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I had plans to replace all coolant hoses after I did the radiator but this sped up the process. Actually the radiator was the first part of a complete coolant system overhaul to include 949 reroute, Mishimoto fans, parallel fan wiring, hoses, temp sensor, temp gauge. Funds are tight at the moment due to new house purchase so I ended up ordering a replacement lower radiator hose from FlyinMiata and a thermostat with gasket.
The FM hose came with some awesome clamps.
Attachment 17478
The FM hose replaced a temporary hose I threw on to get the car moving and also replaced the lower hose.
Temp hose:
Attachment 17480
The FM hose has much better routing and less failure point. It was a simple task to install given my power steering pump was out of the way. Would have been even easier if there was no AC but it snaked nicely under the AC stuff. Had to do some trimming at both ends just to get it to fit perfect and avoid rubbing on anything. A small piece of old hose was sliced and attached with zip tie to help protect the hose.
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So no more coolant issues. The 949 reroute is on my wish list. Just moved into a new house so Miata has a new garage to get used to.
Worked on the car the other night. Used the new garage for the first time. It is so great to have a nice, clean garage with a solid concrete floor that isn't wet or damp. Plenty of lighting and plenty of room.
This particular night had me removing the AC components and installing the ac delete kit I picked up from 5XRacing.
A couple months back I had a local HVAC guy discharge the very small amount of fluid still in the ac system. Power steering pump and lines were already gone.
I started by removing all the lines from the compressor and the lines going into the firewall. Removed the compressor and the cooling unit under the dash.
Attachment 17664
Then I installed the fire wall plugs and the plug inside the glove box area.
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Next put in the accordion crossover tube.
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I could have worked harder than I wanted to and got the AC condenser and evaporator out but I plan on doing that on a day where I can drain the coolant and remove the radiator (ie: coolant reroute).
It felt amazing working on the car to make it more simple. Especially in a nice garage. Still need to remove the bracket once I get a new shorter bolt.
Had to take a pic when I was done.
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Next up on the list:
Flyin Miata VMaxx coilovers & FM shock tower brace.
I would never be able to survive down here without A/C. But I am also a big guy so that adds to it also.
Its almost snow time here in Buffalo NY. Perfect time to install suspension as the car gets parked for winter.
The order kinda, sorta happened by accident. FM's site allows you, if approved, to use Affirm for loans on your purchase. Im not proud to do this but my credit has been slowly rising from the dead. My attempts over a year ago to use Affirm have been denied. My credit has been improving steadily recently so for shits and giggles I tried to check out what was in my dream sheet shopping cart and within seconds it was approved. With an easily affordable loan payment that I can pay off pretty quickly. (And then buy more parts).
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I ended up ordering what has been on my wish list for years. Flyin Miata pieces I have wanted on my previous Miata and current Miata but never managed to buy.
VMaxx classic coilovers
FM shock tower brace
FM frame rails
FM butterfly brace
UPS got everything delivered and I got to wrenching fully aware I may not get to drive it at all due to Buffalo weather.
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Front suspension and shock tower brace went on first.
I probably should have went with the xtreme or track set of Vmaxxs but the car will see road driving most days and auto-x here and there. Didnt need $1000+ suspension...yet.
People debate over STBs. My previous Miata had a shitty $50 ebay brace and I could feel the difference it made. IMO, they make the front end feel much more solid. So I bought what I felt is the best one on the market.
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Didnt take photos of the rear install.
Frame rails were next. Didnt take too long. Would have been much easier with a helper. Butterfly brace will go on in spring time when I get an extra set of hands. Im a one man crew working on the car in the afternoons on my days off while my son goes to daycare and wife is out of town.
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It is ironic drilling holes in a car. Especially when I told myself and my wife that I wouldn't "ruin" this car. I thought Id never drill holes in it or cut it up. Well the roll bar went in and the door bars went in. Whats another 24 holes? No big deal. Racecar stuff.
I was able to drive the car for about an hour on slower backroads today while exploring my new neighborhood. Wasnt able to push it to really see what it could due because of low temps and wet/rainy conditions with a lot of leaves. The exact same conditions that caused me to spin and crash my last Miata. The drive was basically a feeler run to see what needs to be adjusted, tightened, listen for noises etc.
From what I could gather the suspension felt great. Much much better than the shitty 7 year old racelands. The car deserves this suspension. Its not the best ride (i can only imagine how amazing xidas or similar would feel) but it does handle very well. Car is composed and doesnt feel like its going to explode over the smallest bump. Should be a good time at autocross next season.
Im certain the frame rails make a difference but it is hard to tell. I think the door bars made the biggest impact. Frame rails just seem necessary on these cars, especially for the butterfly brace.
Now to retorque everything and give the car its final bath before it gets covered and stored away.
And one snap of the interior before some big changes happen this winter.
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Oh damn I didn't realize you were on Racelands this whole time. Very nice upgrades.
Thanks!
Yea i went to racelands to live the stance life for a bit. Was supposed to only be for a season or two. Almost 8 years later here we are lol they were actually a down grade from my Ground Control and Illuminas i was running way back then. Those didn't gl low though
Stoked for new, proper suspension
How is it getting in & out of the seats with the door bars?
I am considering them but I need to keep the wife happy.
I have read that the door bars work better than the frame stiffeners because the triangulation has more chassis resistance to bending in the door floor pan region.
Awesome Paul. Red Lotus seats would look perfect in the car.
And I know what you mean by credit. It takes a while to bring it back to life.
Couldnt tell you anything about the science of triangulation or whatever haha but ill give you my thoughts.
My opinion is the door bars help you get in and out of the car. You can use them to help slide in and use them to push off when you get out. Ive used lotus seats with them and stock seats (w/ foamectomy) and never struggled to get in or out. Stock seats may be even easier to get in and out as you wouldn't sit as low.
The effect of the door bars could be felt immediately after install. I never had frame rails up til now but i have had a roll bar for almost ten years now and a hardtop for 5. The door bars did the most stiffening. Car felt much better driving, turning, going over bumps. Even jacking up the car I noticed the car seemed more tied together.
They tie into where the front legs of the roll bar mount so install was super easy. Ive got the DIY Roadster bars. They come with one rear bolt already welded on so getting them on was a breeze.
I think the only negative to the door bars is the loss of room in the dead pedal area. They take up hardly any cockpit room but when driving to work with my boots on, its tough to use the dead pedal as the boots are too wide. I can fit my left foot on the dead pedal with Normal width driving shoes just fine.
Some people are against door bars for valid reasons but Im totally for them. In an NA, its just a few holes on each side and some of those holes are already there if you have a roll bar.
My wife rarely rides in the car so I cant really comment on that but i know she has never complained about them when she did .
Hope my rambling helps. Haha
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I have looked into door bars but still trying to decide. I don't like the way they fit with the NB door panels.
Custom flat door panels maybe?
The NB has a weird hump at the top that goes with the dash. I have seen some nice custom ones but I never really had a drive to attempt them myself.
Tonight my beautiful pregnant wife returned from a 2 week military training class in Atlanta.
I know RSpeed is down that way so I jokingly mentioned to her to stop in one day on her down time. Last time I was in the area the shop was closed and I was bummed.
Well sure enough, she stopped in when I wasn't expecting her to. And texted me while she was there. Sent me photos of the stuff in their cases. Asked me if I needed anything....well I need all the things!!! But I told her i dont really need anything. Maybe just a poster or something small.
I wasnt really prepared for this. Didnt have my list ready! Only things I could think to ask about wouldn't have fit in her luggage to bring home lol I've been thinking of getting the KGWorks spoiler from them. I regret selling the one I had and never used a few years back.
The guys at RSpeed (sorry I dont know names) made many trips to the shop to bring things up front to show my wife. They showed her valve covers and gauge clusters and floor mats. Haha She wasn't sure what I needed or wanted.
She ended up purchasing a set of chrome KGWorks washer nozzles (jdm-ness) and a killer graphic RSpeed t shirt. Even though I dont have a washer system hooked up to stock nozzles, Ive actually wanted the nozzles for years to match the door handles and hardtop chrome stuff. The only size shirt they had was xl. Guys told her it would shrink. So she bought it. Im a medium kind of guy but somehow (magic) it fits perfect. Will be even better once washed and dried. Crazy how things work out.
Many thanks to the awesome guys at RSpeed for being so nice to my wife. You definitely did not have to do that, but I sincerely thank you. I think she is starting to understand how awesome the Miata community is. Im happy she stopped in and happy she was able to purchase something from you guys. Look for an order from me this winter for that spoiler!
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If your wife is USAF, Dobbins is a little north of R Speed. About 10 minutes away.
Here are the KGWorks chrome nozzles up close. Apparently you can adjust the spray pattern via tiny wrench. Pretty sweet.
Makes me want to figure out a way to run my squirters again.
Car gets covered tomorrow :(
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Sucks you won't be able to give the seats a try before you put it up for the winter.
You could drop the car off with me for the winter... I'd get those new parts broken in for ya. Gets cold down here, but we don't really get the white stuff.
Got a nice spot next to Betty it'd look real nice in.
Heh, but yeah, sucks you guys up north have to put your cars in hibernation during the winter.
What a difference that here, everything stops in the summer but we look forward to winter to get everything done.
With winter coming I am tossing around ideas in my head for some interior changes.
Debating about doing a shorty shifter console with finish piece over the gas lid release lever.
I kinda miss having the shift boot that matches the steering wheels and handbrake cover.
I see Garage Star , Jet Stream, and others make shorty consoles. Id prefer to keep my revlimiter window switch is possible.
Anyone know if rev's switch works with the GarageStar or Jet Stream short console?
I inquired about the Garagestar one before I went with the Carbon Miata one. He didn't have it in stock but not sure if that was just the NB one.
Yes. Mine had the slot for the OEM power window switch.
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Hi Paul,
I'm Chris, the guy who makes the ABS Forever Panels you've got on your doors.
I was just flipping through catching up on some build threads and I stumbled upon yours. (I also drive a white 90 with lotus seats).
I spotted the post where you 're installing the LE grilles on the door panel- I think you've got it assembled wrong- that's why its not fitting correctly on the car.
The black backer on the LE speaker panel mounts to the FRONT of the door panel. screws go through the door panel from the back to hold it in place. It should go door panel - foam - vinyl - plastic backing plate - polished plate.
The polished metal cover and the speaker grill should be flush. Check out these pics:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTFj-nDlKNk
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTFjmGiFe9q
https://www.instagram.com/p/BS1V3fqFmyr
The LE cars has very small spacers to 'lift' the panel slightly away from the door near the speaker. If you look on the Forever Panel, you'll see unpunched 2mm holes on the outside of the mounting clip holes. That's to mount the spacers with rivets.
If you've got this all sorted- no worries. I just thought I'd reach out.
-Chris
Damn It has been a while.
Life has gotten in the way of the Miata. With spring just around the corner it is time to get the Miata ready for the road.
The way the car has been situated in the garage on rollers, it has hard to push/pull. Figured i could use my ATV but I have no tow hook. Good excuse to purchase one.
Picked up the Garage Star front hook. Looks awesome. cant wait to install.
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Now who has the leads on the tow hooks that work with the R package lip??
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RyokuRob rear hook would work, and match (in silver). If those are still around. I recall Greasemonkey looking for them for Warbird... maybe some leads there?
Rob still does small runs from time to time, but he advertises locally.
They are VERY difficult to track down but WTB ads proved very useful, though may take months to produce results.
@PaulB: When I had a Facebook account, I reached out to RyokuRob but never heard anything from him. So you could try that route. I even reached out to Project G who worked with Rob to produce them and they said he had been MIA for some time and this was over a year ago, iirc.
Rob travels a LOT. He also has a young family, so getting a hold of him is pretty difficult. There are smaller, close knit groups that he's on, but they are private. His runs are usually small batches and MTO when he has time. He did a small run at the beginning of February, but kept it local.
I've heard rumors that RyokuRob will not be producing any more new batches...then again, just rumors.
I think the last time there was a batch made was at least 2+ years ago.
You and your negativity!! Haha jk jk
And i see Garage Star doesnt make their rear flat hook anymore. Sad sad.
Got this installed tonight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f35cc572ec.jpg
Cut the "hi-flow" grille to fit around it. Looks decent.
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Rear flat hook? Do you mean the brace or was it a hook?
if it was the brace they still have them. If their site is wrong, they have none and you want a brace then I think this one looks nice:
No not the brace.
This hook:
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Oh. That looks a nice tow hook, shame they stopped making that. It seems as though they are moving away from Miata's?
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Garage Star shorty console arrived today. Excited for the 2018 interior changes.
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