I asked the question because only one of the coils appeared to be damaged. Rear one looks fine:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...da2bfb62_b.jpg
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I asked the question because only one of the coils appeared to be damaged. Rear one looks fine:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...da2bfb62_b.jpg
Not broke? Don’t fix.
Not true.
Figured as much, but also figured I'd ask. Electrical components don't have unlimited lifespans, of course. AFAIK, these are the original components with now nearly 20 years' service.
Understood. That is an impressive life span considering.
Also, that ROT on the calipers is also not true. Brake pads/rotors, yes.
Replace consumables in sets ( pairs / ends etc.) for brakes. When a caliper fails, it generally creates uneven wear. Best practice is to replace the broken caliper but also the pads, rotor, hardware on that end (F or R) so performance is even.
OEM coils are $105 shipped apiece. NGK unit from Rock Auto is $37 apiece. If you were me, what'd you do?
I went ahead and bought the NGK's. I'll keep the old ones as spares. Maybe put some epoxy or something on the cracked one. Keep 'em in the trunk.
NGK FTW. OE manufacturers are always the safe bet. NGK, Delphi, Denso, etc.
I also keep known working electronic spares. Sensors, relays, I keep in a compact tool kit in the trunk.
Did plugs, wires, and air filter today with the little dude. Glad I bought wires and new ignition coils, too, but more on that later.
Since we were trying to squeeze in the job in the 45min or so I had to spare on Mother's Day, I opted to not do the valve cover gasket or extract the broken bolt holding the forward coil in place. Shame on me, but it'll have to wait. I probably should've replaced the PCV valve as well, but that can be done on a different day.
Anyway, here's what I bought:
WIX Air Filter
NGK Blue Wires
NGK FR5BHK Ruthenium Plugs
NGK U4013 Ignition Coils
Glad I bought both the wires and coils because that crack in the forward coil turned out to be a bit more...terminal (see what I did there?) than I thought.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7a6c3041_b.jpg20210509_151959 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e87aa6c0_b.jpg20210509_152002 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Try as I might, that part of the coil that was still attached to the plug wire was not coming out. Oh well. At least the other coil and wire were good, so in the Spares box they go.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0f7d4cae_b.jpg20210509_152012 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
New and Old plugs. Top to bottom is Cylinder 1, 2, etc. To be honest, I don't remember when I replaced these (I am pretty sure they haven't been in there since 2008 when I bought the car and snapped the coil bolt, buuuuuuuuuut...sigh).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7b9884bd_b.jpg20210509_144704 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b677ab55_b.jpg20210509_144822 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f176e2c0_b.jpg20210509_145101 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Comparing #3 to #4, it's interesting how much cleaner the #4 plug looked. Also there was a lot more electrode material left on it (relatively):
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4b2b21b0_b.jpg20210509_145106 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7778e7ee_b.jpg20210509_145238 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Got a pic of the little dude while he was getting the plugs out and finger tightening them back in:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b0b7940_b.jpg20210509_144642 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d59cbde7_b.jpg20210509_150125 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
I ended up having to zip-tie the OEM harness to the coil because it wouldn't click in place on the forward coil. Not sure why. Clicked in place just fine on the rear one.
Started up the car and butt/ear dyno says it sounds smoother, which aside from long replacement time for the plugs is really all I wanted. It was good to have the little guy out to work with me on the car!
Which cylinder # was the damaged coil on?
PVC test, shoot some brake clean through it, shake it along its axis. It it rattles its good. Blow and suck on the end to see if the valve closes. It’s basically a check valve.
Plugs all look decent except #2, which is why I asked about the damaged coil. Looks like it wasn’t firing as well as the rest.
Also, a little dielectric grease in the wire boots and on the tops of the plugs can help prevent them from sticking together over time.