At least you found the cause, and can get it fixed. I'd call that a win.
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At least you found the cause, and can get it fixed. I'd call that a win.
Got to agree with Mike; plus you are not just getting Tick back on the road, but making it better too.
It's true. Just not the the news I'd hoped for.
In the meantime, they tightened the heck out of the alignment bolts, and the noise is pretty much gone. Bushing is visually no good, so it needs to be done.
Bushing isn't terribly difficult, some basic hardware can get it done, or a bearing press set, but removing the arm is necessary and realignment.
I could do it, but right now time is of the essence, so I'm paying my alignment shop to put in some RockAuto A-Arms...as long as the bushings on them are good, they can use my brand new OEM LBJ's. It's going to be a couple hundred more, but it's worth my time. I'd be nervous either way (I still am).
Also: not so sure I want to keep the 1.25" RB bar up front. Thinking it's a bit much for my tires.
Good.
A 1" FM bar may be good for what you are describing, or a little thinner from an MSM.
If you are using adjustable endlinks, make sure you aren't preloading the FSB, exacerbating what you may be feeling.
I picked up a used adjustable FM front locally for an excellent price. I was skeptical because I was trying to land a RB unit. I have been happy with it in conjunction with adjustable endlinks and the RB reinforcements. IT's less 'hardcore' and more streetable IMO, which has been nice with this car.
I busted one of my stock links in the crash, so I'd have to use the SuperMiata links I've got.
Once I get the arms replaced, I'll try to drive it hard(ish) and see if I like the character. If not, the MSM goes back on. Planning to keep the RB blocks either way (once I put them on)
Need to find longer bolts for the RB's mounts so I can use the blocks :(
In the meantime...If you haven't (re)installed these, you should consider it:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/862/2...91838075_c.jpgShock Hat Gaskets by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Haven't gotten to drive the car yet, but these appear to have cured the groan/creak I was getting from the rear on bumps.
So true and often forgotten!
Oh my...guess that's it XD. I was wondering what could be the cause of some groan's etc... Guess it's time to put that one back in. It was one of the ones I forgot to put in during the install and I was too frustrated to take it apart again. Haha!
That'll be the next alignment trip. I need to the the bushings in the RUCAs shifted forward again anyways.
Even after putting the gaskets, I still wasn't happy. There was a slight crinking noise still coming from the rear. I realized my error pretty quickly: when I had lowered the rear shocks to get the hats on (without actually removing them from the car), I had undone the knuckle on the rear upright which makes one-man rear shock jobs SUPER easy. The only problem is that that the knuckle's bolt can't be tightened with the wheels on the ground. I'd tightened both bolts without really putting weight under the A-arms, and the sound I was hearing was the bushing there binding slightly.
This time, I jacked up the rear, disconnected the rear sway, took both wheels off, and loosened the bolts. Before I tightened each one, I used a scissor jack to raise the suspension to its approximate ride height and then tightened the bolt.
Put the wheels back on and lowered the car...no noise.
https://i.imgur.com/WCIDZ5q.gif
On tonight's menu: putting the fender liners and undertray back on once I put in the RB blocks, then maybe putting in my new aux cable and bluetooth receiver.
Final inspection tomorrow afternoon. Wish me luck!
It's easy to overlook little things like that when you're knee deep into a project. Glad it was something simple. I sometimes forget what it's like to have rubber bushings. I've been on polyurethane bushings for so long and they don't have this issue, although you do have to keep them lubricated.