Shelby aka the 2003 Ford Mustang's journey from GT to GT350

First off I'd like to introduce myself, I am Greasmonkey2000 aka Chad to those that know me a little better than just a name on a forum and I had a three year build that I unfortunately had to part out and sell mostly stock, far too soon. Some of you may be familiar with the Warbird and if not that is ok too but feel free to check out Warbird's build thread at your leisure.

This is my non-Miata build thread for my newly acquired 2003 Ford Mustang GT that I have decided to call Shelby. Why Shelby? In honor of Carroll Shelby of course. The reason is because I plan to do a sort of homage to the Mustang GT350.

The build is going to be more fluid than set in stone but I already have some ideas. The basic idea is to take ideas from the earlier GT350 and later/modern GT350 cars. The three main areas will be 1)suspension, 2)power and finally 3)cosmetics, with the former two being the most important ones and where part of Carroll Shelby's 'winning formula'.

Let's get right to it. The project is one 2003 Ford Mustang GT wearing Dark Shadow Gray(Ford paint code CX) exterior paint and Dark Charcoal leather interior(interior code XW) with 93,211 miles upon purchase. Here are some interior/exterior pics:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/603/32...962b6421_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/265/32...f7c86948_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/772/32...b6142b63_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/688/32...ea37e69b_h.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/754/32...0533801b_b.jpg

It came equipped with a 4.6L over head cam motor....as seen here....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/426/32...da6112f9_b.jpg
...rated at 260hp/305tq with a 5 spd Tremec manual transmission(TR-3650 rated for 360 lbs/tq) and a 8.8" live axle rear differential with 3.27 gear ratio. It already had a few mods and they are as follows:

Engine/Drivetrain-
-SR Performance 70mm (?) throttle body
-SR Performance(?) cold air intake
-unknown aftermarket clutch
-unknown short throw shifter
-Flowmaster exhaust
-BAMA performance tune(these cars REALLY respond and need a tune ASAP)

Suspension/wheels & tires-
-Eibach lowering springs
-American Muscle anthracite grey Bullitt style wheels in 18x9(F) and 18x10(R) with 245/40/18 Sumitomo HTRZ II(160AA tread wear) in the front and 285/35/18 in the rear

Exterior-
-Front Mach 1 style chin spoiler
-front Mach 1 style grille delete
-Raxiom smoked projector headlights w/ 'halos'

I could have done with out the aftermarket headlights but the factory headlights aren't great an at least these seem to be aimed well and have pretty good light output. They may end up getting replaced with OEM style lights.

It did have a few issues that the previous owner made me aware of. The first and biggest being some underbody rust....this is usually a deal breaker and the conversation usually stops there but after some pics(and verification in person) that showed what seem to only be surface rust on replaceable parts like control arms, etc. I decided I would live with it...see for yourself...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/517/32...35fa1660_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/775/32...c02d0074_h.jpg

...it actually looks worse in pics believe it or not and given the fact it had been up north, Pennsylvania iirc, its whole life up until a few years ago I think it is very minimal.

The next came about as a result of the previous owner installing some gauge overlay's and in the process made the tachometer get stuck and now the back lighting for the instrument cluster not light up but he thought it was just a connector came loose. I'm sure it will be a fairly easy fix.

Another issue that he said occurred on occasion was the fan would sound like it was hitting the shroud but upon hearing it myself I think the fan itself is going out, again not a big and relatively inexpensive repair.

The last one that he brought to my attention was the battery light coming on occasionally but never staying on very long and the car had never failed to start or exhibit charging issues.

One that I found was what sounded like the bearing on the auto tensioner going out, he made no mention of this but I think he was mistaking two different sounds as one in the same for the 'fan shroud' issue.

The drive home was uneventful, thankfully, but the sound of the Flowmaster exhaust and the added power from added parts made it very enjoyable. Will try to get some quality pics ASAP as these are all from the seller. Hope you check back in from time to time and participate when you feel the need! :D

Now that is badass!

A Pony owner now? You moved to the dark-side on color. Liking that! Just yell if you need questions answered on the fixes and faults that may pop up. No bad mojo to you. Just know that some noises sound like one and are another on those.

I'll welcome you at 'Palooza in your 'Stang. You just have to park outside. LOL

Peace nut!

@AgentOrange: Thanks! Why am I not surprised you approve. :D


@NCGreasemonkey: Thanks Rick! :drinkto:

01-27-17, Mileage- 92,323: So I guess there is no such thing as 'karma'. Why do I say this? Because yesterday I went out to the garage to take Shelby to run a few errands only to find she wouldn't start and what else would it be but a battery! And after I replaced my '97M battery with a brand new one just before selling....oh well.

Of course the negative terminal bolt was stripped so I just cut it of with a angle grinder as well as the positive to just replace them both at the same time. Then I found the try was pretty nasty, looks like a previous battery leaked, and the lower bolt for the try was rotted away...so I had to drill it out.

Went and picked up a new battery from a local auto parts store with a 3yr warranty(didn't have the one specifically for my application so I just measure mine and found a similar sized one but it had 690CCA instead of 590CCA), battery hold down kit(mostly for the correct length/size bolt), new battery post connections and anti-corrosion pads. I decided to just wait to install till today.

Pretty straight forward of course so right to some pics, first that nasty tray....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/686/32...76d19e74_k.jpg

...I cleaned it up but it still a little stained....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/571/32...4a66c354_k.jpg

......the new parts.....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/277/32...bac0a6bb_k.jpg

.....and everything installed....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/602/32...bc21b796_k.jpg


....not surprising it started right up! So I guess the battery light 'mystery' has been solved. The other battery had a manufacturer date of February 2013 so it was time for a new one either way as most batteries only last 2-3 years. If you get 4-5 years then you are doing really well or at least this was my observation in the eight or so months of working at a auto parts store.

I have ordered some parts to fix the gauge cluster issue as well as some 'eye candy' for the interior, that should be here next week. :)

Love it! I'm a big Ford guy and huge Mustang fan! Sometimes I wonder why I have a Miata and a 3 series and not a mustang! Lol

Chad, Chad, Chad...

You are the OCD for details. Do I need to PM you about those battery terminals? You know better. Electricity ( Boogy woogy woogy ), air and Copper do not like to be together for long. Electrical tape is not the cure. Love you Guy! Don't want you to have problems in a couple of months!

Don't make me kick the spurs on a replacement, local but not yet met in-person, Chad that is siggy'd Grendel and has not done the newby Hello yet.

All I know is he works where I shop. Has an NA, stealth TSI's. Turdblo'd. Black and red body panels.

He works in the Bovine dept.. So, yes, 1 1/2" Porterhouse availability is part of my fondness!

Peace doner to Noir and fellow nut! :drinkto:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by theothersawyer

Love it! I'm a big Ford guy and huge Mustang fan! Sometimes I wonder why I have a Miata and a 3 series and not a mustang! Lol

---

That is crazy! Glad to hear you should be half way entertained by the build, Danny, I will try not to bore you or disappoint to badly. :fp:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey

Chad, Chad, Chad...

You are the OCD for details. Do I need to PM you about those battery terminals? You know better. Electricity ( Boogy woogy woogy ), air and Copper do not like to be together for long. Electrical tape is not the cure. Love you Guy! Don't want you to have problems in a couple of months!

---

Rick, Rick, Rick.....sometimes I just don't know what you are saying good sir. Guess I did not receive the 'How to communicate/understand NCGreasemonkey for Dummies' because I really feel like I need one sometimes. In all seriousness I really don't know what I am getting chastised for.

The high quality 3M electrical tape is simply there to help keep the wires together as pretty much all the exposed wire is in the terminal. Is this because they aren't 'oem' terminal contacts? If so I don't think much of them as most are too thin with too small of bolts, imo, and experience. I am open to criticism and suggestions but really not sure where you are going with it. :shrug:

01-27-17, cont'd: It would appear that the battery did not cure the 'battery light' issue and from my experience and my online searching for this particular make/model it seems the alternator is more than likely to blame....yay spend more money that I don't have! So it goes with cars/life.


While talking about money I don't have I thought I would put together a list of modifications and goals for Shelby. I already said why I named her Shelby, in honor of Carroll Shelby, but didn't go into much explanation for the 'GT to GT350' details.

The reason for a sort of GT350 tribute build is because it was the entry level performance model Carroll Shelby made and that usually used the same displacement v8 as the other non-Shelby model Mustang's but with some more parts to make it faster. Of course parts to add power was just part of the treatment and Carroll Shelby understood that handling was important to making a car fast as well.

Another reason for the GT350 designation is that it is the GT and plan to end up at around 300whp aka 350hp at the crank(approximately), so that the 350 designation would be fitting because car companies have used number designations for cars in reflection of how much power they made at the crank.

It really is as simple as those few reasons. Obviously they didn't offer GT350/500 trims for over 30+yrs before doing another and that wasn't till the generation after mine, the S197 chassis. So I'm not making a 'clone' per se.

Yes, people will undoubtedly talk trash about the GT350 designation, especially since I will probably do some of the 'GT350' cosmetic mods well before I reach the horsepower goal of 300whp, I'm ok with this....on to the list, this of course is a rough draft and may change as the build progresses but I have put a decent amount of thought/research into it.

Future Modifications:

Engine
-Larger aftermarket throttle body(currently 70mm, so 78mm or bigger)
-Aftermarket MAF housing(larger?)
-JLT CAI and possibly a Shaker setup eventually
-Long tube headers(may decide on shorty headers instead)
-Aftermarket catted H pipe(H over X for the v8 rumble vs higher pitch tone of the X)
-SLP Loudmouth catback(haven't decide between ver. 1 or 2)
-Stage 2 cams(yes a generic term, sorry)
-Upgraded valve springs/retainers
-Steeda Underdrive pulleys(undecided on this mod)
-Larger injectors(24lbs/hr or possibly bigger?)
-Retune as needed via BAMA tuner
-Aftermarket heads(if I HAVE to have 300+whp)

Transmission/drivetrain
-Lightweight flywheel(it may have one, not sure at this point)
-Aluminum driveshaft
-Differential gears(it may also already have these, not sure, if not 3.73's more than likely)

Suspension
-Full length subframe connectors, weld in of course
-Aftermarket struts(QA1 more than likely)
-Aftermarket control arms(oem ones have rust so why not)
-Aftermarket k member(undecided) or K member brace(if I do shorty headers)
-Aftermarket sway bars
-Bump steer kit(it may have one already, not sure)
-Camber plates
-Panhard bar setup
-Torque-Arm setup

Exterior
-Cobra grille emblem(on its way)
-GT350 rocker panel stripe/decal in black
-Replace the headlights with oem/similar
-Sequential taillight kit
-Quarter window scoop(undecided)
-GT350 badges(probably '68 GT350 badges since mine is an '03 and 1968 plus 35 is 2003, lol, undecided)
-Different wheels, possibly some Weld or similar looking wheels, with more rubber
-Front/rear 03/04 Cobra bumpers
-Trunk w/ no spoiler or duckbill type(undecided)
-Billet aluminum fuel door
-Different hood if I don't do a Shaker setup

Interior
-03/04 Mach 1 gauges(on there way)
-red LEDS for the gagues/hvac
-LED's for dome/map light(on there way)
-Chrome gauge bezel rings(on there way, couldn't find brushed/satin ones)
-Push button start(on its way)
-Billet aluminum headlight knob(on its way)
-Billet aluminum headlight bezel(on its way)
-Billet aluminum turn signal cover
-Billet aluminum door handles
-Billet aluminum window switches
-Billet aluminum pedal covers
-Billet aluminum shifter trim
-Billet aluminum steering title wheel lever
-Billet aluminum shift knob
-Billet aluminum HVAC knobs
-Billet aluminum door locks
-Billet aluminum lock grommet
-Aftermarket floor mats with Cobra emblem or GT350(the latter would have to be custom from what I have seen)
-Cobra steering wheel airbag
-Aftermarket seats(undecided as the driver seat is pretty good with all the adjustments and inflatable lumbar support)
-Shelby serial number tag(1968 style)
-Metal door sills



So that is my 'rough list', lol. As you can see lots of metal on the interior once again, why? Because I loved how it looked in Warbird and given the GT350 tribute I think it will work well and look good. The above power mods from my research SHOULD get me close to 300whp(270-290whp depending on exact parts) and if I still want more than probably aftermarket heads(Twisted Wedge or Patriot) and aftermarket intake will get me well over 300whp. I don't expect Shelby to progress quit as fast as Warbird did but time will tell!
:)

Chad, this is awesome. I am also a Ford guy between the big 3. But I do like the Corvette. I am definitely going to watch where this build goes. First because it's different. Second because it's a Mustang. Third is because you are doing it and your Miata build was so bad ass. Good luck man. This is going to be fun!

@tsingson: Thanks, Anthony! Your support and enthusiasm is very much appreciated! :drinkto:

I completely understand people's strong feelings towards mustangs, good or bad, and i have been there but i think like most those feelings, at least when negative, have more to do with the drivers they have encountered, which is unfortunate. Mustang's have a rich heritage and sold as many uniits in the first two years then it took mazda to sell Miata's in over 16 years!(one million)

That alone is impressive and to date sold more than nine million Mustang's!! Granted most have been v6 models and not performance oriented models but most buy them because they 'look cool' or they have a family member or friend that had one and they want to 'relive' that feeling they had growing up and that is ok but...like Ricky Bobby said, "I just want to go fast!" :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

That is crazy! Glad to hear you should be half way entertained by the build, Danny, I will try not to bore you or disappoint to badly. :fp:

---

You won't disappoint!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

Rick, Rick, Rick.....sometimes I just don't know what you are saying good sir. Guess I did not receive the 'How to communicate/understand NCGreasemonkey for Dummies' because I really feel like I need one sometimes. In all seriousness I really don't know what I am getting chastised for.
:

---

Hahaha I just died laughing because I feel the same way! Never have a clue what he is saying!

@theothersawyer: Thanks Danny! :drinkto: I think Rick uses his own 'pig latin' to confuse the masses and keep us from knowing that he is really a genius just trying to relate to the average joe... :shrug:

01-28-17: Checked the voltage at the alternator with the engine running and it showed a solid 14.5v. I didn't test with any load(lights, ac, etc) because it was in the garage so I didn't want to suffocate but will try that in the next day or two. From some quick Google searches, I found others having similar issue and a new tensioner and or belt resolved the issue.

I received a few little interior pieces in the form of a UPR billet aluminum headlight knob w/ oem light logo, UPR billet aluminum headlight knob bezel and a back lite metal push button start switch.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/728/32...5780ad75_k.jpg

The UPR pieces are rather nice and included installation instructions, allen tool for the allen head for the headlight knob, alcohol wipe pads and double sided adhesive foam for the bezel. I decided to go ahead and install the two UPR pieces since they should be easy enough to install and will install the push button start in the next week or so.

Removing the headlight knob was easy enough with some gentle prying and pressure against a metal tab but then just the knob came off, not sure if that was suppose to happen or not. The metal retaining clip came off with out too much persuasion and of course installing the two UPR pieces was as easy as the contents of the package would suggest.

I honestly said I was going to take pics of Shelby as I bought her before doing anything but...I can't help myself. So onto the pics!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/569/32...21e09a75_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/575/32...7f16baac_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/659/32...e7042568_k.jpg

I really like the UPR pieces as they seem to be good quality and look great!

This thread made me look up Mustangs for sale. I thought about putting the 3 series up for sale for a split second!

You too Danny? As soon as I saw Chad's, I went straight to Craigslist.

The 2 Mustangs I owned had that difficult to attain balance of harsh ride and poor handling. I'm sure some aftermarket suspension parts would have fixed that, but I didn't connect with either car enough to keep them.

I guess I'm just a Miata guy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by theothersawyer

This thread made me look up Mustangs for sale. I thought about putting the 3 series up for sale for a split second!

---

Lol, you sound like me after looking at a build thread on something i like or have wanted to get.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tsingson

You too Danny? As soon as I saw Chad's, I went straight to Craigslist.

---

I think this is pretty common for car guys. :fp:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Martin

The 2 Mustangs I owned had that difficult to attain balance of harsh ride and poor handling. I'm sure some aftermarket suspension parts would have fixed that, but I didn't connect with either car enough to keep them.

I guess I'm just a Miata guy.

---

Shelby does not ride as well as the 97m even as low as it was on Feal's 12k/8k BUT Shelby is just on Eibach lowering springs and oem struts that are undoubtedly blown, not a good combo. The 01 Bullitt i had was well sorted and rode pretty good, imo, with fantastic handling.

To be honest, I'm a v8 guy at heart and while I love miata's and plan to get another...i plan and am sure Shelby will keep me happy! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

Rick, Rick, Rick.....sometimes I just don't know what you are saying good sir. Guess I did not receive the 'How to communicate/understand NCGreasemonkey for Dummies' because I really feel like I need one sometimes. In all seriousness I really don't know what I am getting chastised for.

The high quality 3M electrical tape is simply there to help keep the wires together as pretty much all the exposed wire is in the terminal. Is this because they aren't 'oem' terminal contacts? If so I don't think much of them as most are too thin with too small of bolts, imo, and experience. I am open to criticism and suggestions but really not sure where you are going with it. :shrug:

---

Was not chastising you. Just you are more OCD at repairs than I am.

Those lead terminals are good. Not replacement cables. And I agree with the thin metal vs. heavy lead swap out. But don't just clamp the 2 - 4 Ga. wire in the bolted clamp. Two options are better IMO through the years.

One is to remove battery and once you bolt down the heavy cable to those clamps. Wrap the insulator with wet shop towels and micro-torch and solder the union with a piece of heat shrink, slipped well below the heat, slide up to cover the exposed wire.

Better bet is to get some crimp-style ignition terminals. (Gauged to match your wire) Crimp them on. Micro-torch them to solder. Slip heat shrink up. and mount those to the two bolts for the clamp. I usually flip the clamp so there is less opening for corrosion to evolve. Again remove the battery as the micro-torch has flame and the batery has hydrogen gas.

Dielectric grease is the minimum if you are just clamping the copper core wire in the terminals.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

And the Alternator is the most common cause of the Batt. light. But if you can check the circuit between the alt. and dash first it will prove the fault.

Peace fellow nut!

No matter what you go with. Pull the battery. I don't want anyone covered in acid burns during a repair!

The secondary Chad was that I spotted. A flat black and red NA local and he as been PM'ing me but cannot post. His 2 month old is in Brenner's Children's Hospital. Just wish them the best!

I aways like to read Rick's post. Most of the other posts in here are in plain English I can read, understand and reply back to. Rick's post, on the other hand, always seem to be written in the way Americans talk (well, not all of you, I hope you get what I mean). So they are a chance to witness the culture differences from within.

Back to Chad's thread now. I love the things you do in the Mustang. I always felt the modifications and your general plan for the Miata were an adaptation of the muscle car tuning to a Japanese little car, with all the brushed surfaces etc. it was different and I loved it. Can't wait to see where this project goes now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@NCGreasemonkey: I see. Actually the terminals were a temporary fix because I really don't like that type. This is what I plan to replace them with: http://www.americanmuscle.com/batter...-positive.html

I do need to pick up heat shrink of varying sizes. I normally use dielectric grease but couldn't find mine but i put the red battery anti corrosion grease on the post. Thanks for the clarification, Rick, and hints/tips as you have far more experience/knowledge with automobile repair than I do. :drinkto:


@Rustrat: I see what you are saying Peter and i don't expect Rick to change his post style for me but if giving advice/tips it is best if it is understandable. :fp: Thanks for the support as usual! You know the muscle car influence was indeed present on Warbird, I just never looked at it that way...mostly because my intention/inspiration was mostly aviation based. I actually considered doing a similar path on Shelby but I figured it was best not 'to beat a dead...' well you know how it goes but for the sake of Shelby I won't finish the saying. :lol:

I have had the predecessor to these on the late Sq stereo build for over ten-years.

http://www.scosche.com/efxbtcud08

You can find them at most places that sell amplifiers. Parent company is Scosche but the packaging will normally read EFX.

@NCGreasemonkey: Looks even better! A bit pricier but eBay can help there for anyone interested in them:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EFX-EFXBTC...146?nav=SEARCH


How exactly do they secure to the post? :shrug:

They have an internal Allan (hex) bolt. The one's I have were gold plated with the plastic covers. You can do better than E-Bay if you head to your local stereo shop, Best-Buy or WallyWorld most of the time. All normally have Scosche products in the accessories section of audio. No shipping.

I got mine from a high-end store back in the day. Also got this item that has never been attached or charged. Guess if anyone wants a display for a museum I have you one that did not go up in flames.

http://i.imgur.com/cNtAJmk.jpg

Yes, it is the 20 Farad and has the optional remote voltage gauge. LOL

02-01-17: Well Shelby and I have officially solidified our bond with the first washing/semi-detailing, followed by some pics I took in a near by parking lot.

I just wanted to get some pics of Shelby as I bought her, minus the UPR billet aluminum light knob/bezel, even though the mods may take a while to really get started...I do have a few that I am about to do...little stuff for the most part.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/614/32...a5ff8d71_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/476/32...fd2cb66f_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/535/31...6eec5715_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/349/32...df67d18a_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/597/31...06fc057b_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/427/32...12259d9a_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/358/32...a9f133cd_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/377/32...108a5f09_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/517/32...61aecb1d_k.jpg

02-01-17, cont'd:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/750/32...9f2c86bf_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/776/32...35b21caa_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/287/32...83835966_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/602/32...7a6f2582_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/468/32...a2bf1cff_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/620/32...f0dbc050_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/531/32...559af37f_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/584/31...d0d354ba_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/782/32...c2ab7995_k.jpg

That's pretty!

Looks good Chad!

Like the color combo!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by theothersawyer

That's pretty!

---

Thanks Danny! :drinkto:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tsingson

Looks good Chad!

---

Appreciate it Anthony! :drinkto:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey

Like the color combo!

---

Thanks Rick! :drinkto: I was looking at someone's IG account and saw a few pics of Eleanor from Gone in Sixty Seconds, the latest version, and it looks like Eleanor wore a hue very similar to Shelby's Dark Shadow Grey...thought that was pretty cool.

You have the same thoughts as I did. Eleanor. That is one nice Pony!

I know you have your own ideas, and with the hindsight of your other build, you will rock this!

You have me wanting more! Rock this Chad-style fellow nut!

Peace!

02-02-17: Given Shelby is aimed at moving towards a "GT350" tribute build, I figured a good start that would be cheap as well would be removing all the exterior "GT" and 'running horse' badges as well as remove a few of the 'add ons' that a previous owner added.

Lets start at the front with the 'running horse' emblem in the grille....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/597/31...6e94f36e_k.jpg

...that was removed and replaced with something more in line with the long term vision of Shelby....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/736/32...5385823a_k.jpg

....in addition the "MUSTANG GT" license plate frame came off as well.

Now on to the side where the oem "GT" badges and the aftermarket "4.6L V8" vinyl on the hood scoop was present....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/652/31...7499c8c3_k.jpg

...but are no more.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/691/32...0449545a_k.jpg

Unfortunately I was mistaken in my assumption that the side badges were simply applied with only double sided adhesive tape...so I may have to move up the schedule on the fender badges that will be replacing the oem "GT" badges.

Going around to the rear I thought I would be wise to check to see if any of the rear badges had alignment pins of any sort that would leave unsightly holes.

As it turns out the "Ford" emblem does indeed have alignment pins so it will be staying on for now but the rear "GT" badge was simply held on with double sided tape and looks like a previous owner decided that imprinted "MUSTANG" script on the rear bumper wasn't enough to let those behind him to see what he was driving so he added black vinyl inserts for the "MUSTANG" script and a "MUSTANG GT" license plate frame...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/281/32...b6ab3e67_k.jpg


...nothing that about 30 minutes, a hair dryer, Goo Gone and rubbing alcohol couldn't take care of....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/537/32...f639eb1c_k.jpg

....much better. My apologies for the second picture not being as well focused, I really need to double check them better.


So this is just one step in the right direction for Shelby to go from being a GT to a GT350 build. In the long run I want to remove every "Mustang" script and running horse that I can which the only ones that might remain would possibly be the passenger side airbag with the "Mustang" script and the two running horses on the front windshield, which I can live with. Will have a few more little updates in the next few days! :D

Looking great, man. Love the Super Snake. Love this project. How does that V8 feel?

@AgentOrange: Thanks...AO. You know i just realized I have been a member here for over three years and don't know your name, maybe that is how you prefer but I like names...I'm weird like that. I really missed the sound and power of a v8, loving it! I absolutely love the sound of Flowmaster's, that chambered muffler sound is unmistakable, but really think a SLP Loudmouth will replace it...will be a while though. Really glad you are enjoying the build! :drinkto:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

@AgentOrange: Thanks...AO. You know i just realized I have been a member here for over three years and don't know your name, maybe that is how you prefer but I like names...I'm weird like that. I really missed the sound and power of a v8, loving it! I absolutely love the sound of Flowmaster's, that chambered muffler sound is unmistakable, but really think a SLP Loudmouth will replace it...will be a while though. Really glad you are enjoying the build! :drinkto:

---

And he's not one to post in the "Face to the Siggy" thread. But he comments.

Like the progress Chad! Just get that tuned then find an NA and swap. J/K!

Peace nut!

Much cleaner. I like it that way. Don't add anything in the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-03-17: Got a few things accomplished today on Shelby...unfortunately it was not all success but more on that later. So the aftermarket gauges have not been back lit since they were installed, according to the previous owner that installed them, and the tachometer would stick because the gauges were simply overlay's and cheap ones at that...I guess.

Obviously neither are really big deals since they don't really affect how the car drives but not being able to see your gauges at night and not having a functional tachometer with a manual transmission is a inconvenience in the least.

I wanted the same gauges that I had in the '01 Bullitt I had previously since they had a nice retro look to them but couldn't find a set but then I remembered the 03-04 Mach 1 used the same gauges. I quick eBay search later and I found a clean cluster.

I did some research to see what would have to be done to have the correct mileage, etc. Thankfully it was as simple as swapping the electronic boards from mine to the Mach 1 cluster and that would retain the mileage and correct fuel level and not cause any other issues with the PATS system...I can't recall what that is but in part I think it is part of the anti theft system.

The regular Mustang's have green back lighting on the gauges but the Mach 1/Bullitt gauges are white so while that is perfectly acceptable I thought I would take the opportunity to change the lighting color...to red of course. I also checked to see what it would take to get the HVAC back lighting changed and found that you could just sand off the green tint on the back of the panel.

So I ordered #74 red LED bulbs(7 total, 5 for the cluster and 2 extra/in case the hvac used the same) and two #194 red LED bulbs for the HVAC from superbrightleds.com. I also ordered three 44mm(iirc) natural white LED bulbs for the dome/map light.

I also ordered a set of chrome gauge bezel trim rings to spruce up the gauges, only after searching high and low for satin/brushed ones. I received all the parts over the past few days.

Started off by replacing the dome/map lights today. Obviously straight forward but the electrical connector that hooks up to the dome/map light is REALLY short and hard to unsnap because of how short it is. Here is a comparison of the bulbs in question and definitely leaves not question which has better light output...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/594/32...4289670c_k.jpg

This is what the oem incandescent bulbs looked like(just the primary one that comes on with the door)....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/471/32...8bc28363_k.jpg

...and this is what it looks like with just the main dome light on with the natural white LED bulb(x8 leds per bulb)...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/707/32...ca2e9e2f_k.jpg

...so much better in my opinion! I took comparison pics with the auxiliary map lights on but you really couldn't see the difference in the pics.

Next up were the gauges and hvac panel, both are easy to remove and that information is just a Google search away. I will however mention that you are suppose to remove the negative battery cable before removing the gauge cluster because it can cause a no start issue but if it does you just unhook the negative battery cable for like 5 minutes and it should take care of it, according to my internet browsing on the subject.

When removing the gauges I quickly realized why there were not back lite. They were reverse glow gauges and one of the connections had come loose! What garbage!! Oh well.

I previously mentioned the chrome gauge bezel trim rings...unfortunately I had issues with them and got them all installed on the new cluster cover, it had silver surround instead of black, but the last one...it just wouldn't snap in like it was supposed to.

So I deiced to super glue it...well that didn't work. Then I decided to use some plastic weld but accidentally got some on the chrome bezel and then the clear cover...thus ruining them. I was rather upset to say the least. I will probably pick up another set of gauge trim rings later and try again.

Here are some comparison pics of the said aftermarket gauges, note just the needles are lit but in the pics looks like more than it is....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/564/32...6d1f063c_k.jpg


....the oem hvac panel...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/490/32...2c77cd40_k.jpg

...and both....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/418/32...f2dda72a_k.jpg


...and here are the gauges after swapping the electrical board to the Mach 1 gauges and installing the red leds...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/405/32...776d073b_k.jpg

...with the car lights on and the garage lights off...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/329/32...ccac266f_k.jpg

...the hvac with the green filters removed and red leds installed...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/435/32...b7f6b961_k.jpg

...and both of the previously mentioned...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/269/31...7943ac05_k.jpg

...this is with the dimmer on full bright. Although the dimmer doesn't seem to change the brightness as much with the leds but I presume this is because it simply works of resistance...not really sure...either way I am very happy with the results and Shelby started right up with no issue!

I also checked to see what would have to be done to change the rear defroster, traction control and fog light switch lighting and they just have green bulbs(led?) with the wire coming directly from the bulb to the contacts...so just have to get the right size bulb. Of course the oem radio will get replaced in time with a unit with either red lighting or one that has multiple lighting colors.

Looks great Chad!

Was prepping Noir for her dash with stereo lighting that would match today. And get her out of the '90's.

Work it fellow nut!

So you are building Shelby to be the opposite of a sleeper? That could be a tough road ahead if your car writes a check it can't cash.

I did a poser "tongue in cheek" with my 1984 Audi 5000S Avant.
In 1984 the "S" model was the lowest performance model you could get. Later Audi changed S-versions to be the high performance version.

So I highlighted the "S" with 3M reflector tape and installed full width tail-lights.
Real Audi guys laugh!
Non-Audi guys say "Wow, it's the "S" model!
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7299/8...d4f000d6_b.jpg

@NCGreasemonkey: Thanks Rick! :D


@MiataQuest: Rene, not really sure how to respond to what sounds like an accusation of building 'domestic rice', as that is what I concluded from, "So you are building Shelby to be the opposite of a sleeper? That could be a tough road ahead if your car writes a check it can't cash."

Imo, if you build a car with worrying about what everyone thinks or if they approve then you have failed before even beginning at all. I know I certainly don't do so. Obviously everyone wants acceptance or approval from someone but the people that even matter don't care about such trivial matters.

I'm trying to build Shelby in such a way that if there had been a New Edge 'Shelby GT350' this what it might have been. Obviously some things may meet that goal and some may not.

I certainly see no reason as to why i need to worry about 'checks my car can't cash' as I don't plan on putting 'pen to paper' as it were at every stop light someone wants to prove....whatever it is they think they will prove by 'beating me'. I'm only 32 yrs old and have long realized how juvenile such things are. I do 'get on it' to listen to the exhaust or some tire action but try not to with too many spectators around. I enjoy driving not....'measuring contest'.

A few discreet, imo, badges and or vinyl doesn't scream 'look at me'...at least what I have planned and already listed, which obviously includes decent power gains along side suspension and cosmetic additions. There are plenty of tool drivers to take the spot light from Shelby and I will gladly let them have it. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

@AgentOrange: Thanks...AO. You know i just realized I have been a member here for over three years and don't know your name, maybe that is how you prefer but I like names...I'm weird like that. I really missed the sound and power of a v8, loving it! I absolutely love the sound of Flowmaster's, that chambered muffler sound is unmistakable, but really think a SLP Loudmouth will replace it...will be a while though. Really glad you are enjoying the build! :drinkto:

---

Alex here. No mystery intended. I just like to promote my bio-hazard screen names depending upon which color of car I have at the time. I love America, beer, Miatas, baseball and apple pie.



Well, actually baseball bores me and I prefer Taco Bell over apple pie, especially after beer but the point is while I love Miatas, I also love V8s. Luckily, there's room in this forum for everyone. As long as you're turning wrenches and having fun, I'm all for it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

@NCGreasemonkey: Thanks Rick! :D


@MiataQuest: Rene, not really sure how to respond to what sounds like an accusation of building 'domestic rice', as that is what I concluded from, "So you are building Shelby to be the opposite of a sleeper? That could be a tough road ahead if your car writes a check it can't cash."

Imo, if you build a car with worrying about what everyone thinks or if they approve then you have failed before even beginning at all. I know I certainly don't do so. Obviously everyone wants acceptance or approval from someone but the people that even matter don't care about such trivial matters.

I'm trying to build Shelby in such a way that if there had been a New Edge 'Shelby GT350' this what it might have been. Obviously some things may meet that goal and some may not.

I certainly see no reason as to why i need to worry about 'checks my car can't cash' as I don't plan on putting 'pen to paper' as it were at every stop light someone wants to prove....whatever it is they think they will prove by 'beating me'. I'm only 32 yrs old and have long realized how juvenile such things are. I do 'get on it' to listen to the exhaust or some tire action but try not to with too many spectators around. I enjoy driving not....'measuring contest'.

A few discreet, imo, badges and or vinyl doesn't scream 'look at me'...at least what I have planned and already listed, which obviously includes decent power gains along side suspension and cosmetic additions. There are plenty of tool drivers to take the spot light from Shelby and I will gladly let them have it. :D

---

You took it wrong.
My Audi 5000 S is a car that can't cash the check and I am having fun with that.
It is my car to take it the direction I wish and you are doing the same.
I was just pointing out that some Mustang purist's or Shelby owners may not feel the same.

I admire all car enthusiasts that have a vision and run with it.
So I am enjoying reading about your build and not criticizing it.
I want to see where it goes. This, and being from Detroit I do love V8 pony cars.

@AgentOrange: Nice to make your acquaintance, Alex! :D


@MiataQuest: I see. Thanks for the clarification, Rene. I know it may sound silly but if some 'feathers weren't ruffled' by the build then, imo, I'm not doing it right. Some of the most beautiful and incredible cars are usually the most controversial and while Shelby may never be any where near cars like that, I certainly hope it is different.

Obviously modifying one of the most modified cars leaves a challenge to be unique while still being tasteful and true to ones vision. Hope Shelby and I are up to the challenge! Even if I'm not we will have a lot of fun along the way!! :drinkto:

Even if it follows the same lines as others, if it's what you want in your car, do it. It's all good as long as you like/love it.

@tsingson: I hear you Anthony and agree. Certainly not saying a 'tried and true recipe' is wrong because it certainly is not. Different has always been my philosophy but certainly not different just for the sake of being different but with a purpose and goal in mind. I kind of feel like I am beating a dead....well you know, just trying to explain 'where I'm coming from'.


In regards to Shelby i found out the bulbs for the traction control/rear defrost/fog lights are #7219 microlamp bulbs but when trying to look for red ones or led...i found nothing. So i went to a site that sold said bulb and found out they are 3mm wide so I ordered some 3mm led bulbs in different colors off my favorite led supplier, superbrightleds.com. Should hopefully have them later this week.

02-18-17, 92,559 miles: Went ahead and ordered the two idler pulley(s), auto tensioner, radiator fan motor and belt from Rock Auto earlier this week. Received them a few days later and after realizing the radiator fan assembly was only $20 more than the fan motor alone, I went ahead and sent the fan motor back and ordered the whole radiator fan assembly(02-16-18).

Received the radiator fan assembly today, thanks Rock Auto! As usual I had looked up a few YouTube videos on replacing these parts and as I figured there wasn't anything to it...maybe an hour or less.

New parts are always nice even when just maintenance parts...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2068/3...439929cb_k.jpg

The old fan was out and the new fan assembly was back in within 15 minutes...literally five nuts to remove the coolant expansion tank and fan, unplug the fan, drop in the new one and reverse.

The idler pulley(s) and auto tensioner was equally easy to do but before too long I realized the smooth idler pulley was the wrong size. I had a 76mm(3") and the new ones was 90mm(3.5'')...my fault.

Before heading to the auto parts store to get the correct one I decided to turn my attention to the bolts that had seen some corrosion from over the years...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/593/32...ab90cade_k.jpg

...with some careful use of the angle grinder with wire wheel and cut off wheel for the washer(s) they looked much better.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2338/3...48f2c100_k.jpg

Checked online to see which auto parts store had the correct smooth pulley and while none had the Gates piece I wanted, one had a Dayco idler pulley for my application. Upon arriving at the parts store and getting it in my hands I saw it was a different design from the oem one or the Gates I had but that was all they had, so after measuring it and confirming it was the correct 76mm...I paid for it and was headed back home with hope it was the correct one.

Here is the Dayco unit on the left, the old one in the middle and the Gates unit(90mm) on the right...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/523/32...6cceb10e_k.jpg

....the Dayco unit was plastic where as the other two where metal with a flat face and open cavity on the back side. Where as the Dayco unit was ribbed wit the ribs starting from the center and extending to the outer edges on both sides. Thankfully it worked.

Not much to see but here is what the old, probably the same parts as it rolled off the assembly line with, tired parts looked like....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/537/32...9302174b_k.jpg

...and the new parts installed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2677/3...8041b551_k.jpg

Pulled Shelby out of the garage and let it run for ten minutes or so per the instructions for the belt and check for proper belt alignment and make sure worked as it should.Thankfully no more noise from the radiator fan!! It was REALLY annoying!!

Everything was fine but the battery light is still coming on!! I put in my OBDII bluetooth dongle in the obdII port and turned on the Torque app and found the voltage to still be in the 13.7v-14.3v range with an occasional dip to 13.5v with the ac, headlights, etc. on...so at this point the only thing I can figure is the alternators internal voltage regulator is going or a bad ground some where in that circuit...I dunno. Will continue to monitor.

That's a proper charge from any alternator. Is it supposed to be 14.4V or else fault?

@AgentOrange: Alex, my understanding is it should be above 14v with no load , while running and between 13.7v-14v with a load. So it seems to be with in that range but the occasional dip to 13.5v and battery light has me thinking the voltage regulator is on its way out. :shrug:

Is the Alt. a OEM or a aftermarket? Fords don't like aftermarket.

Peace.

I believe it is the oem alternator, Rick, but haven't confirmed.

Hope those storms and winds were no where close to you fellow nut!

We get any updates?

@NcGreasemonkey: No storms in my area. Thanks for your concern, Rick. Update coming in 5, 4, 3, 2....

02-23-16: Since removing the "GT" fender badges from Shelby I have been looking at options to cover the two alignment pin holes left behind. My first choice would be to fill/weld them but not planning on repainting the fenders anytime soon for something this trivial.

I even considered finding a side marker light but decided to give the 1968 Shelby GT350 fender emblems a try which is a vertical emblem with "SHELBY" on top with a gold background and the cobra below then "GT 350" at the bottom.

Asked my wife to buy them for me for my wedding anniversary present. She did so and they showed up and looked great but were larger than I expected at approx. 3.75'' tall and 1.75" wide. I 'mocked' one up and it just wasn't going to work in my opinion. Being that my lovely wife bought it for my anniversary present I didn't want to decide to not use them w/o he opinion. Thankfully she agreed they didn't look right.

Next I decided to give the newer "GT 350" fender emblems(used on the 2015+ GT350) a try and being that they could be bought on eBay for less than $10/pair, I figured it was worth a try for the 'knock off' pieces, which looked identical to me eyes. Ordered a pair and they arrived pretty quick considering they came from Asia.

Here is what they look like as received...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3780/3...5afafc17_k.jpg


...then I test fitted...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2767/3...5730badb_k.jpg

....ya that isn't going to work. I guess I should have measured better as they are approx. 1.6'' tall and it would need to be 1.8''+ to cover. So I decided to try something....busted out the angle grinder with a cut off wheel and ended up with this end result...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2858/3...a8baaabb_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2135/3...48ba2004_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/724/33...e2a5cb80_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2911/3...d7d9547b_k.jpg

....honestly...at first I didn't really like it but after my wife told me 'they don't look bad' and looking at the pics more and the end result 'in the flesh'...I am content for now. I can't say if they will stay...Adam aka Revlimiter may be called upon to make a custom badge but not sure how I will feel about a round badge in that location, as silly as that sounds. Adam will definitely be getting my business again for some custom wheel caps, door sill inserts and key chains...that will be later though.

For less than $10 and 30 minutes of my time I am happy with the results but they definitely looked better as they came but the whole point was to cover the holes so they are serving their purpose and may just become a permanent part of Shelby....time will tell.

Hey Chad,

Glad you didn't get blown-over in those storms.

And the mod to the emblem looks spot on. I would not change it. This is the OCD You and I share. You could batch sell that I bet!

Peace fellow nut that will come back to the fold!

I like the emblems as they are now. I can understand looking for something that will fit your plan and general theme, but these do look good. If it doesn't bother you too much, let them be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always wanted your model year's cobra when I saw one in the same color scheme, with a black racing stripe burbling down the highway. Going to enjoy keeping up with this. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey

Hey Chad,

Glad you didn't get blown-over in those storms.

And the mod to the emblem looks spot on. I would not change it. This is the OCD You and I share. You could batch sell that I bet!

Peace fellow nut that will come back to the fold!

---

Thanks Rick! :drinkto:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RustRat

I like the emblems as they are now. I can understand looking for something that will fit your plan and general theme, but these do look good. If it doesn't bother you too much, let them be.

---

Appreciate it, Peter! :drinkto: They are growing on me and can/will go with my plan, so they will probably stay. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by turboedpickup

Always wanted your model year's cobra when I saw one in the same color scheme, with a black racing stripe burbling down the highway. Going to enjoy keeping up with this. :)

---

Terminator's are incredible! My friend who is a big time mustang enthusiast had a black 03 Cobra, even stock it is FAST! I'd love one but they are really holding their value and i rarely see them below $15k with decently low miles and in good condition. Thanks for reading! :drinkto:

03-26-17:Decided to give Shelby some attention and install the Perihelion Design nickel plated switch guards I had purchased last month.

Now this might seem pretty straight forward....drill some holes and install right? More or less but getting the spacing even in measurement/visually and making sure they are as vertically straight as possible isn't as easy as you might think even when measuring, marking, etc.

Maybe I am over complicating it but even after doing this on Warbird....it was still not perfect, imo, but visually they look fine...well see for yourself.

Before....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3836/3...dfdf6b90_k.jpg


After...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2882/3...061fc312_k.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2926/3...de74db2b_k.jpg

I was going to install the push button start I had also bought but decided to do that another day since I still need to get the leads for the switch figured out, aka look on the eBay listing:lol: , since it can be used in more than one configuration and has back lighting.

Love updates in this thread. They look okay-ish. Just my honest opinion, don't want to disappoint you. Maybe it's the photos, the far right one looks crooked.

Where did you get the switch guards from? Want to make a switch panel that will match Adam's switches.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RustRat

Love updates in this thread. They look okay-ish. Just my honest opinion, don't want to disappoint you. Maybe it's the photos, the far right one looks crooked.


Where did you get the switch guards from? Want to make a switch panel that will match Adam's switches.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

Maybe I am over complicating it but even after doing this on Warbird....it was still not perfect, imo, but visually they look fine...well see for yourself.

---

:fp::lol: Peter it is the angle that is making it look crooked although it isn't perfectly vertical it is much better than originally but i could only open the holes up so much w/o the hole being seen and or too big. I plan on getting another radio surround, in time, and redoing as there was already some pre-existing damage. I appreciate the support and honesty though. :drinkto:

The guards are made by Perihelion Design and i bought them off eBay from a seller named southbrigde_massachusetts as they were a good deal cheaper than buying from Perihelion Design's website.

02-20-18: Well after about a year of ownership and a record breaking 1700+miles, the new owner took possession last night. Now to get a J-O-B and I should be back on track with Misfire! :)