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Hi there, I have this issue of my power windows not going up or down. When I bought the car, they used to work slowly. Now the electric motor seems weak. Here's the video : http://youtu.be/r5QkqJ5Z0w4
I want to know if its necessary to buy the complete power window system or
Need to just get the regulator?
If have found the regulator alone is like $150 and thr motor like $200 i dont know what to fix first...
Any help here?
First, awesome video. Second, I think you need a new motor. The regulators don't normally go bad, but the cables and motors do.
By chance have you tried cleaning the contacts on the power window switch? The switch itself has been known to cause the windows to slow down due to corrosion altering the current going through and altering the resistance or something. I do not entirely remember the specifics.
For me it's always been either the contacts or the cables.
Contacts are easy to fix. Cables not so much. If you find it's the cables and you have a car quest around you. Can get just the regulator without the motor. They are very reasonable and are Mazda OEM parts. Actually have Mazda sitckers on the bag.
^ there it is. I am wrong, ignore my answer.
That was just my experience. It is quite possible to smoke a motor if you continue to try to move a window that's jammed. To tell if you did first check your switch. That's the easiest thing. Then if cleaning the contacts has no effect hit the door. To really tell what's going on you need to pull out the regulator. Once it's clear of the door look closely at the cables usually if they are bad you will see frayed cable comming out of the entry point of the cable sleeve. If everything looks okay, leave the motor connected to the power. Try moving the regulator up and down. If the motor is okay or somewhat okay you will see it torque up the spring tensioners and then jam. If this occurres, check for obstructions in the regulator guide rail. Solid lube and rust are major impediments. After cleaning this up try again. Torque up of the tensioning springs and jaming again petty much means a bad cable inside of the sleeve. Take the cap off of the take up spool look at the cable as it is wrapped inside of the spool. See any frayed wire. If so, it's the bad cable. Still nothing? Look closely at how the cable is wrapped on the spool. You will need to rewrap this when you are done. Unwrap the cable and try to manually pull the cable and move the regulator. Can't move it? It's the cable. If it moves freely try running the motor. Here is the kicker. You can't get the cables by themselves. I tryed to have a set made at a cycle shop, the ones in this area don't want to rebuild them. My posting above is a place to get the regulator with out the motor. If you can't move the regulator by hand and the motor is toast. Buy the full set. Finally if the regulator works great outside of the door, check your window guides, and the channel the window travels in at the front of the door. Bad guides? We have them for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by kung fu jesus
I plan to move this and sticky the thread because there is quality all over the place. Nice!
Let me work on this, thx guys!
Report back! It will be good to see how this plays out!
The cables were broken plus the window guides as well. The motor is in good condition. I saw this video that helped me a lot:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYwUGFQ0JAo
He recommends to go and make the cables at a motorcycle place. I dont have the time for it, so I ended up buying a new regulator from ebay.
Both sides have the same issue... The regulator from the passanger side is too expensive....so if anyone knows of a website to get the cable will be much appreciated.
Here the best window guide/bushing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200568833934 Most of the ones you find on the web are plastic, this is cnc machined piece. Undestructable!
You might want to look at my window guides...
http://roadstertech.net/.cm4all/ipro...Bdonotenlarge/
Teflon impregnated Delrin is used in very high grade dry bearing surfaces. Read my write up.
http://roadstertech.net/Our-Products...des/index.php/
Aluminum will not last once the lubricant wears off...
Aluminum on Steel is not a good bearing surface... Aluminum always looses to steel.
You can hit a Delirn part with a hammer and not leave a mark. It runs for years in the packaging industry as a machined gear surface on delrin to steel no lube gear sets. That is for large bottle fillers with 8 foot diameter rotating bowls. Aluminum would self destruct there. And Teflon impregnated Delrin has an even better friction coefficient. I know I used to be a staff research engineer for the bottling industry and I machine aluminum, delrin and HDPE on a daily basis....
Anyone that is interested in a written instruction sheet can find them here:
http://roadstertech.net/window-guide-instructions/
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjuanch
I had messed up cables on the passenger door of my NA. I *thought* I got the cables and regulator from Moss or Finishline, but it was about 5 years ago. I remember coiling the cables inside the regulator was a bit tedious and it frustrated me. I wound up installing it backwards on the spool so I reversed the wires at the plug for the motor. It worked great after that! :derp:
Yea, I've done the coil routine about 6 times now, not too fun... three times were from trying to make my own cable ends. Ugh!Quote:
Originally Posted by kung fu jesus