The Rocketeer

[mini_fd]

This week the car is going to kilo racing so they can tinker the low secondary boost. I am experiencing a 12-4-6 pattern.


While its there I have a few things getting down.




Brand new oem tps sensor installed

IRPerformance motor mounts

Elite rotary oil pan brace ( looks like I'm leaking oil around the brace and on the oil mixing pump lines) so when they look deeper into the leak, I have a set of steel flex lines to replace the plastic lines.

Fixing the 99 fog lights. They light up connected to the battery but not when hooked up correctly to oem connector. I'm receiving power too but it's all weird.

Banzai Racing delete kit



I'm dropping off the Hks RS intake to get painted and clear coated silver along with the Hks S pipe. to have an oem look. I cleaned and have the Hks filters but I'm going to use the K&N filters instead.


I also purchased a HKS twin power.





Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

So I got back news from Kilo Racing with and update that is upsetting but comes with opportunities.



The car wasn't leaking oil from the oil pan as I thought it was. It's leaking from a broken oil mixing pump line. Its basically severed. He offered to do a fix to it that I did not want to do but asked him to do it the right way. He offered a different fix since I'm to be Wed this September. I'm still having him install the oil pan brace to prevent future leaks from the engine flexing.


I said to him lets do it the right way because Jeanne and I drive this car a lot and I autocross it on occasion.

He hasn't fixed the secondary Turbo issue because this is a new issue.


We discussed a few things and he mentioned that in order to replace the lines he needs to remove the motor. I was apprehended by that sentence and asked to call him back. I talked to a few people to make sure there wasn't another way to do it and to have my rotary friends reassure me that this is the way to do so and the easiest.


So I called back and asked a ball park number that'll stick to let me fiance know and be prepared for with tonights dinner and opening a really nice bottle of wine thats several hundred dollars.



I am having the injectors sent to marren. The previous owner has a reciept from 2004 when he had them rebuilt. So it'll be interesting to see the differences once again.
I ordered new injector grommets since marren will more then likely provide new o-rings.

I purchased a new oem fuel pulsation dampener and new fuel pressure regulator. I was contemplating ordering the new fuel hose that connects the primary and secondary rails.

I like to get things powdercoated to look nice but today isn't the time to do it. I simply can't strain the wedding funds anymore. We still need to pay off the remaining balance to the venue, pay for the catering next Friday, and find a florists, photographer, and music. Luckily we already have the dress. Thank god.

I do need an efini y pipe. I'm going to ask kilo if he has one. Well degrease the engine bay though it's pretty clean from the view up top. I'm pretty sure it's ugly down under and inside.

I'm skipping the harness unless kilo says or recommends a new one since they are about 840.00 from my dealership and there's only one in North America.


Kilo is going to inspect the sequential system. All the solenoids and vacuum hoses are a year old now. But it'll be easier when the motor is out.

The coils are new as of 16 months ago. He is suggesting I hook up the choke again that Pettit racing deleted. Each mechanic has there own points of views. I'll just let him do so.

We will block off the air pump with the delete kit I purchased.


and just Purchased an efini y-pipe and crossover





DSC09219 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


DSC09099 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

So the motor is pulled out and Kilo said one of the injectors is potentially leaking. Not from the diffuser or metal grate but possibly from the body. He sees stress cracks on a couple of them.

So He is installing a set of 99 injectors he knows works well. I asked him if we should take them to get cleaned and flowed and he emphasized that they are good and work well.


He also looked around the turbos and thinks some lines are not correct for the secondary turbo. Ill confirm with him tomorrow when I stop by to drop off the new emissions harness I just dished out.


He said that it is his recommendation to replace the harness since the car not only has 155k miles and is 25 years old but because a couple of clips are broken and the wires are brittle. FML

The car has been in the shop since May 2nd but because I had to order parts along the way and wait for them to arrive, is wait pushed my car back from getting fixed any faster.

And its funny that David Hayes was there pulling out my motor on my car. I saw his car there when I dropped mine off and it looks fantastic.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Stress from heat cycling or duty cycle?

[mini_fd]

@kungfujesus I'm not sure which it is. I would assume heat because of the injectors location under the manifold and the rats nest with no air flow.



Im heading over to Kilo Racing now to drop the harness off. Ill have more pictures taken once I'm there.

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

Kilo said he is going to pressure wash the bay and even do a light coat of paint on the inside for me.

Photos of the motor out and whats been done so far. New OMP lines, New fuel dampener, New pressure regulator, new primary to secondary fuel line, 99 injectors, New injector grommets, New oil squirters. The work continues tomorrow with the harness and the rats nest.

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

Everything got done as I hoped it would. I was a bit hesitant in my first year of owning the car but regret not going sooner to Kilo.

I have absolutely zero oil leaks. Hooray!!! I hope to not replace the Oil mixing pump lines ever again. Though, I took advantage of the situation being that the motor was being pulled for multiple things.

Today I installed the Hks twin power and man does it go through the power band ultra smooth. I couldn't believe it. The motor felt effortless. (could be that new harness too)

So the boost is not where I'd like it to be. It doesn't drop to 3 psi like it used to before I took it to Kilo Racing. It drops at 8psi where it should and climbs back up to .67bar

I tried to manipulate the PFC with boost levels between the turbos and percentages but I couldn't get it to .8bar

I kept blowing off couplers every time I took the car out to day on the exhaust intake side.


We'll some pictures after 7 weeks of diagnosing, ordering, and performing on the car.


DSC09446 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC09447 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[Greasemonkey2000]

Sorry to hear about your recent issues with the FD, Gerald, but glad they are sorted. Beautiful pics as usual! You are one of the individuals that convinced me i needed a decent camera finally but I'm sure it will be years before I can take pics any where near as nice!

[mini_fd]

@greasemonkey- awwww shucks. Thank you. A7's are becoming more affordable. That's what I have.

This is what lunch looked like today with both my baes


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

Today I was let aware by the pictures I posted of coolant dripping on top of the motor mount was installed incorrectly. The red bushing, bolt, nut was supposed to be underneath the subframe with the bolt gravity fed.

I also fixed a vacuum line that I had connected with a fitting to another line to extend the length to reach a port on the manifold with new silicone 3.5mm black silicone hose. I bought 10 feet of it for future fixes. I also purchased 7 feet of 6mm silicone hoses.


I installed a new start Lev-r cap for the AST.


And today I ordered new high rated 500•F rated rubber caps from http://www.mcmaster.com/#high-temperature-caps/=12xfqnk for my new intake pipes.



How the motor mounts should be installed
Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

I changed out the plastic fitting going into the housing that twists itself to the heater core line running on the back side of the firewall. I believe that was the cause of the leak. I also replaced the 90* elbow hose from the bottom of the throttle body as well for good faith. I also burped the radiator system and added more coolant.

[mini_fd]

Just installed the HKS RS Intakes. I don't like the red caps that are high temperature rating.



DSC09474 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC09483 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC09488 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

So this is how I've been cooling the car down after driving it around town and park it in my garage. I see high temps when I come back to the car after going into a store but they quickly drop once I start the car. It doesn't run hot. Just sits hot at unsettling high numbers.




I have a 3 Fan set up. The 2800cfm air mover gets placed in front of the opening of the bumpers mouth, the white fan sits on the bumper mounts and in front of the intercooler while I remove the pressure chamber to the side to get air pushed under the intake manifold, then the oscillating fan to bow air to both of the other two. LOL paranoid yes. Getting the car to cool down faster, Yes.


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[mini_fd]

Starting to look like a professional lol



DSC09497 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

[NCGreasemonkey]

You talk of high temps after shut-off. All cars do it. It is called super-heating. But there are ways around it.

Cooling fans are cooling the front. Meh!

Electrical water pumps that continue to circulate the coolant thru the engine until the temp. is safe.... Like a turbo-timer for your engine. M2C