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Thread: HarryB's Strato blue NB2

  1. #226
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Remember the inspiration pics from 3 years ago, when trying to decide on my wheels' color? I had also done this, but did not had the time to actually build it. Was reminded of it a few days back, and did another 2 versions of it. Picture 1 is going to happen sooner than later, already got the lights here for over a year now.






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  3. #227
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    That's pretty cool!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  4. #228
    Supporting Member oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Cannot wait Harry, that looks fantastic!!

  5. #229
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    That looks awesome!

    Definitely #1. I'm not sure where this whole mix and match wheel craze started but personally I really don't like it(that is putting it mildly) but there are plenty of things that I have done and will do that others feel the same about so to each their own.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 12-07-2019 at 03:24 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  6. #230
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Thank you guys! 1 is most probably what's gonna happen, I am also thinking to make some magnetic off-white roundels to put on and off when I feel like it.

  7. #231
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    I like the yellow covered fog lights!!!
    Life is short drive a Miata

  8. #232
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Update time! During Christmas break, I did get started on wiring for the new engine. I have actually purchased a spare 1.8 VVT engine loom, but will cover that in an upcoming post. I also dealt a bit with the chassis wiring, tucking it a bit out of the way and re-looming areas that were not given enough attention at the factory. Before and after pics:









    Used a combination of flame retardant mesh/overbraid and Tesa automotive cloth tape, for that OEM+ look. Connectors did have to come off for that, so I de-pinned and re-pinned them back. The only ones I could not figure out (in 10') were the headlight connectors, so if you know how to take them apart please let me know.

    Next I decided to create a heat shield for the master cylinder/brake lines, as they are quite close to the exhaust manifold. Torn between adding a heat shield to the exhaust, add this or add both, but went on anyways. Cereal box CAD (cardboard-aided design) followed by quick drawing. Dimensions are in mm and measured with a ruler on the cardboard, so not 100% verified, but I will report back when I get this done; hope this is useful to someone!





    (Don't mind the dirty car or my valve cover)

    Plan to cut it in 1mm aluminum, roll some beads on the flat sides and add stick-on foam insulation on the inside (armaflex is quite cheap and effective).

    Designed myself some proper Elise seat mounts (these were designed to conform to the FIA regulations for seats).



    Usual process, measure, print in 1:1 scale in A3 paper sheet, trace to cardboard, test-fit, laser cut. They need the front tubular mount welded, hope to do that soon.





    Also made myself a "frankenstein delete" mount. This replaces the OEM mounting system for the hardtop, reducing squeaks, while it can also be an anti-theft protection.





    That's all for now. Unfortunately I will be crazy busy until the 5th of February, hope to catch up after that!
    Last edited by HarryB; 01-13-2020 at 04:30 PM.

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  10. #233
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Lame "update"; major service time since the car just passed the 200k km mark. I was not planning to do that as I planned on replacing the engine with the 1.8, but I had oil leaks from every single seal/gasket on the engine, and I could not stand it. The usual deal, replaced crank/cam seals, timing belt & tensioners, oil, air and oil filter as well as a valve cover gasket. For the seals I used Corteco-branded ones (after being suggested by a friend who's a Mazda mechanic, and mainly since I plan to cover really few miles before swapping the engine). They are marked as NOK and look really similar to OEM ones, so much that I think they are indeed the same. Timing belt was a Gates kit with a genuine Mazda spring. VC gasket, decided not to risk and used a genuine Mazda one

    Also, lifted the car, removed the plastic undertray and all underbracing, and gave it a GOOD wash, removing a ton of oily residue and general crap.

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  12. #234
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Sometimes the most gratifying work is stuff nobody sees or notices except you.

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  14. #235
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Almost a year after my accident and broken arm, got the engine on an engine stand and on my balcony through my apartment (having a few curious looks in between by neighbours). Of course, the 1st thing that I did was to test-fit my Rotrex bracket mockup



    The engine looked rough on the outside, but was supposed to be a low mileage example and I had hopes. Sneak peek through the oil cap, looks clean



    Same after removing the thermostat neck



    Managed to remove the crank pulley without an impact wrench. Everything looks clean here as well



    VC off, and I have to say this is one of the cleanest used engines I have ever seen (and I totally believe the mileage stated by the seller now).







    I am really tempted not to touch anything on the inside since it looks almost brand new, besides swapping the oil pump with the billet Boundary one and all rubber parts of course. Hope I will make a bit of a faster progress now that I have it here. All bolts will be re-plated, block cleaned and painted, aluminum parts cleaned and soda blasted, and all small brackets blasted and powdercoated, so it will also look like a brand new engine on the outside (hopefully).

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  16. #236
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Personally unless you're trying to redo the internals, I wouldn't touch it. Engine looks great.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  18. #237
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! atlex's Avatar
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    Hey Harry! Sorry to hear about your arm, I guess, it's full recovery ?

    And that head looks almost spotless, is there any oil even there lol ? What's the mileage it has to be very low

    FWIW what may be worth doing is checking that the CAS sensor lobe at the back on the intake cam isn properly lined up. I've heard they can move on the VVT engines, from Skuzzle. It's only a friction fit but after a some expansion/contraction it appears to loosen up.

    If I had the vvt engine I'd get it drilled and (tapped and screwed)/pinned into the cam.

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  20. #238
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Thanks! Arm is mostly fine, it has been a year now. It was nasty as it was an elbow fracture, but I have 99% of my previous movement range so it is all good! And thanks for the VVT lobe advice, that was something I was not aware of and will be definitely doing (cams need to come off for me to upgrade valve springs for the Rotrex, so I will do it at the same time).

    Bryan, I was inclined to do so myself, but... I need to get that billet Boundary oil pump in there now, and it is a good chance to install oil pan baffles as the pan is coming off. I will change all seals etc at the same time for reliability. I was planning to pull the head to use a 99 head gasket with a reroute and upgraded ARP head studs (already got them), but I am not sure if I want to anymore. Plus it is something I can also do with the engine installed on the car later down the line if I want to. The rest of the stuff I plan is cosmetic, plus the usual service items (water pump, cam belt etc.), plus a lightweight flywheel.

    Any advice on which kind of paint I should use on the block? I have seen people using 2K systems, but I am inclined to high-temp rattle cans as well.

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  22. #239
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    HarryB's Strato blue NB2

    I’m inclined to leaving it sealed too, that engine is exceptionally clean. Either it lived near the sea or was driven in the winter in a cold climate.

    As for paint, high-temp rattle can has been my choice. 2k systems get a little finicky. Not sure it’s worth the money for that purpose.

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  24. #240
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Additionally, I might try to do a LDT while on the stand, do a borescope, and compression test it before installing.

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