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Thread: HarryB's Strato blue NB2

  1. #256
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Hm, good point that I have never thought of. What throws me off is the straight line on the side; the dash is all curved and suddenly comes to a stop on a straight line which does not seem natural. I am thinking of designing and 3D printing a trim piece to go over the Nakamae part to alleviate that.

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  3. #257
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! atlex's Avatar
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    Looked again. I think in better lighting you might find it looks just dandy

  4. #258
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Haha, will give it a proper clean and some time to make up my mind.

  5. #259
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    HarryB's Strato blue NB2

    That transition does seem a little odd. The NA versions meet the bottom of the tombstone clean and even.

    Probably because the inset on the centerstack of the NAs do not extend to the shifter like the NBs do. I believe that would look better if the Nakamae NB center console used that part that surrounds the shifter.

  6. #260
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Fully agree (as always); I have some ideas that will put to the test once I sort out more important matters.

    You may recall that I have tested the AWD setup for a while. It came with a JDM cluster, which has ALL the warnings in different positions than EUDM ones, for reasons only Mazda knows. In addition, I have been missing the fuel warning light (my car is a 04 which had these as stock). I sourced a spare 04 EUDM cluster from a good friend and was thinking of moving the gauge faces across, but I realised the speedo scale is totally different. Upon research, it turns out that the speedo is controlled by the odometer screen module, so if you swap it too it should be no problem, which is what I did.

    EUDM back side


    JDM back side (with the screen module loose)


    I had to trim some warning light "light tubes" as per Adam's instructions, but I had already done so once when buying my 1st set of Revlimiter gauges, so it was just a matter of repeating it. AWD gauge faces actually have a small indicator "hole" with a blue tint for high beam on the tacho face, which I wanted to use. In the JDM cluster, the owner had cut down the "light tube", so that indicator was lighting up when turning the lights on, which was annoying. I first assembled the lot without triming the "light tube", but it was casting shadows in some of the stars, creating a dark circle on the gauge face. I decided to 3D print a "funnel" so to have only the 2.5mm hole lighting up without blocking any of the face illumination.







    Works a treat! Low beam:



    High beam:



    The only issue is a dark area between 7500 and 8000 rpm, caused by the screen module, which unfortunately I cannot fix.

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  8. #261
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    In other news I have an AC issue that is terribly annoying. The system is charged, I can hear and feel the AC compressor engaging, but no cold air. I did not have the time to properly go through it but I suspect either an issue with compressor seals, or with the evaporator valve. The thing is that NB2s sold in Greece had their AC system installed here; hence it is not the same compressor as the factory installed ones. I have been wanting to upgrade the system to something better for a while, so I may go for an OEM RX8 scroll type compressor and a universal aftermarket condenser. This one has great feedback, and it is a 4-pass one

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNFP1226KT-...72.m2749.l2649

    Not sure what to do about the evaporator though (if it needs replacing). Any other items I should check, besides the evaporator valve and the thermoswitch?

  9. #262
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    AWD gauges look great, Harry! I was just thinking...I wonder if something as simple as foil tape on the odometer box on that corner might lessen or fix the issue? Maybe even gluing on pieces of mirror...I think I might pick Adam's brain about that and give it a try on the spare cluster I bought for Misfire's custom Revlimiter gauges.

    That stinks about the ac. I normally only use Misfire's if it is pouring down rain or I'm going somewhere with my wife and any amount of perspiration is unacceptable. I certainly still want the option though. Hope you get it resolved.

    Edit: Apparently there is already a solution to this issue. Adam said you just have to CAREFULLY cut off the front cover of the odometer box while making sure not to hit the circuit board. As I said I have a spare cluster so I will use the odometer in it to try this on and will follow up.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; Yesterday at 07:57 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  11. #263
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Thanks Chad! I quite like them too, but I also like my Revlimiter set quite a lot, so I will be swapping between the two quite often.

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