HarryB's Strato blue NB2

[HarryB]

Hm, good point that I have never thought of. What throws me off is the straight line on the side; the dash is all curved and suddenly comes to a stop on a straight line which does not seem natural. I am thinking of designing and 3D printing a trim piece to go over the Nakamae part to alleviate that.

[atlex]

Looked again. I think in better lighting you might find it looks just dandy

[HarryB]

Haha, will give it a proper clean and some time to make up my mind.

[— kung fu jesus —]

That transition does seem a little odd. The NA versions meet the bottom of the tombstone clean and even.

Probably because the inset on the centerstack of the NAs do not extend to the shifter like the NBs do. I believe that would look better if the Nakamae NB center console used that part that surrounds the shifter.

[HarryB]

Fully agree (as always); I have some ideas that will put to the test once I sort out more important matters.

You may recall that I have tested the AWD setup for a while. It came with a JDM cluster, which has ALL the warnings in different positions than EUDM ones, for reasons only Mazda knows. In addition, I have been missing the fuel warning light (my car is a 04 which had these as stock). I sourced a spare 04 EUDM cluster from a good friend and was thinking of moving the gauge faces across, but I realised the speedo scale is totally different. Upon research, it turns out that the speedo is controlled by the odometer screen module, so if you swap it too it should be no problem, which is what I did.

EUDM back side


JDM back side (with the screen module loose)


I had to trim some warning light "light tubes" as per Adam's instructions, but I had already done so once when buying my 1st set of Revlimiter gauges, so it was just a matter of repeating it. AWD gauge faces actually have a small indicator "hole" with a blue tint for high beam on the tacho face, which I wanted to use. In the JDM cluster, the owner had cut down the "light tube", so that indicator was lighting up when turning the lights on, which was annoying. I first assembled the lot without triming the "light tube", but it was casting shadows in some of the stars, creating a dark circle on the gauge face. I decided to 3D print a "funnel" so to have only the 2.5mm hole lighting up without blocking any of the face illumination.







Works a treat! Low beam:



High beam:



The only issue is a dark area between 7500 and 8000 rpm, caused by the screen module, which unfortunately I cannot fix.

[HarryB]

In other news I have an AC issue that is terribly annoying. The system is charged, I can hear and feel the AC compressor engaging, but no cold air. I did not have the time to properly go through it but I suspect either an issue with compressor seals, or with the evaporator valve. The thing is that NB2s sold in Greece had their AC system installed here; hence it is not the same compressor as the factory installed ones. I have been wanting to upgrade the system to something better for a while, so I may go for an OEM RX8 scroll type compressor and a universal aftermarket condenser. This one has great feedback, and it is a 4-pass one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNFP1226KT-...72.m2749.l2649

Not sure what to do about the evaporator though (if it needs replacing). Any other items I should check, besides the evaporator valve and the thermoswitch?

[Greasemonkey2000]

AWD gauges look great, Harry! I was just thinking...I wonder if something as simple as foil tape on the odometer box on that corner might lessen or fix the issue? Maybe even gluing on pieces of mirror...I think I might pick Adam's brain about that and give it a try on the spare cluster I bought for Misfire's custom Revlimiter gauges.

That stinks about the ac. I normally only use Misfire's if it is pouring down rain or I'm going somewhere with my wife and any amount of perspiration is unacceptable. I certainly still want the option though. Hope you get it resolved.

Edit: Apparently there is already a solution to this issue. Adam said you just have to CAREFULLY cut off the front cover of the odometer box while making sure not to hit the circuit board. As I said I have a spare cluster so I will use the odometer in it to try this on and will follow up.

[HarryB]

Thanks Chad! I quite like them too, but I also like my Revlimiter set quite a lot, so I will be swapping between the two quite often.

[— kung fu jesus —]

RE: AC system.

Check the Schrader valves on the high and low side tubes. My e30 had a bad valve and one stuck open.

If the compressor is kicking on, you still have a pressurized system. If the compressor isn't kicking on, you can test the pressure switch and the compressor by jumping leads separately. If you are going to re-seal the system, I strongly suggest looking for a little bottle of Nylog for r134a (if that is the refrigerant you will use). It's like thread sealer and seal conditioner for AC systems. I can post a pic if you need reference. I *think* the NB2s have a scroll-type ac pump, I know the NB1 and NB2 systems are a little different in their hardware.

FWIW, removing the evap box under the dash isn't a terrible job, it's just a little fiddly and cramped. Once you get the airbag out on the passenger side, using a 10mm socket on a wobbling extension is useful for removing The box from the firewall. Reinstallation, orient the latching straps on the box before reinstalling it back on to the firewall.

Forward AC components, like the condenser, drier, remove the front bumper and radiator. These are delicate and sharp components, working around the radiator and bumper are just making your life harder.

[HarryB]

Thanks Steve, that is all very useful info! I have already "checked" the pressure switch yesterday, by pulling the plug with the system on, which disengaged the compressor. I have also removed the evaporator box before, to unclog a drain during my 1st summer with the car. I need to go over the FSM and see what I need to check, but being a somewhat different system from the OEM supplied one does not help.

On the plus side, I was not very happy with the performance of the system over the last two years, so it is a good opportunity to look in depth and maybe improve it.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Usually, if I open an AC system, I replace the drier and clean or replace the condenser. A new or freshened condenser operates a lot better. It’s amazing how much grime, dust, and debris gets trapped in there.

[HarryB]

Since I am giving the Nakamae a chance, I pulled it apart to inspect and clean/refresh. Basic fiberglass/composite frame seems identical to NA versions. Really high quality piece.



Pulled the metal trims and removed the carpet. There are some metallic fold-in tabs on the underside along the front edge that riveted on the frame and need to be bent out to do so.



Gave the aluminum trims a quick polish, cleaned and conditioned the leather. They use really high quality thick leather, but it has been neglected for a long time and has some patina. Also washed/deep cleaned the carpet. Finished article ready to go back in car:

[HarryB]

Also got a set of OEM NB front mudflaps. Test-fitted before committing to painting them, and I actually kind of like the look, feel it suits my retro-inspired theme. Should I or not? (apologies for the crappy pics, in need of a new phone...)



In prep for boost, I have been thinking the KW-supplied intercooler and the fact that it is tiny. Rotrexes are efficient beasts, nevertheless Greece is quite warm, and would prefer something slightly bigger. I have been eyeballing OEM ICs from VW/Audi cars for a couple of days, then came across one from an 8J-gen Audi TTRS with low miles for cheap, so I bought it. Fast forward to today, I pulled the bumper to test-fit. Since I had the bumper off, I decided to also install a FIAMM 72102 "freeway blaster" horn I have bought a couple of years back. Plug n play affair, just had to bend the mounting tab a bit to clear the PS cooling loop.





Onto the main dish; IC. As said, I had eyeballed the dimensions. With the bumper off, I could tell that the mounting bosses on the bottom side are in the exact same spot as the stock ones for the AC condenser.



Moreover, both width and height, but also thickness was spot on, as it can be just tucked in behind the PS cooling loop without touching the lines.



However... there is interference with said lines on the driver's side. The lines come up in an angle (visible in the previous post) and want to occupy the same space. Not sure how to deal with that (bend them somehow? remove and install a proper oil cooler for the PS system?), but will figure it out.

[—Bryan—]

Which wheels are those?

[HarryB]

Watanabe RS8 in 15x7 ET27 with 3mm spacers to clear brakes (which makes them ET24); tires are 205/50/15 AD08Rs