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Thread: My Second Miata

  1. #31
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Alright - car went on it's first "real photoshoot" - AKA...not my cellphone camera I'll only put a few up haha. Will add more as we look for other scenery later.

    It also seems that I preference the passenger side more...mainly because between the 2 dents on either side of the car - it's harder to see it on this side And the second biggest fail was when I found out that the tools I had couldn't take off the license plate It'll be better next time - and I'll be less bashful with the driver's side.

    Signature angled shot...



    Legit "asians" can flatfoot squat properly



    A picture next to the photographer's ride - makes me miss my UGM wagon.



    And you were right - the stripes DID turn out ok! I only had a close call peeling one of them off - the corners of the letters are the most sensitive...and understandably so. Either way. Not bad!


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  3. #32
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Looks great, color scheme really works! Nice photos too!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  4. #33
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Looks great, color scheme really works! Nice photos too!
    Thank you! Still working in obtaining a red interior...but that's SORT of put on pause as a little one is one the way

    But still having fun with this as is. That is what makes the miata a miata right?

    Actually...playing it "safe" with the engine right now as I THINK I have a slowly growing head gasket leak. I miss my fearless engine revving days.

  5. #34
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    That moment when you finally get your car up and wheels off to start the bushing R&R...



    ...and when you finally look - THEY DON'T LOOK THAT BAD.

    Well, the rear UCA's - the bushings have slid out ~4mm...so I'm definitely replacing those.

    But my LCAs (both front and rear)... no cracks, and the bushings still feel "soft." I already have OEM bushing replacements on their way from Priority. Should I be shipping these back? ALSO bought used front/rear LCAs so that I can do all the changes "off the car."

    I'm really just trying to figure out why the car feels "loose" when compared to my old 120k mile NA. (I'm currently sitting at 70k).

    Front UCA's are new. Tie rods are a year old. Tein SFlex's are 1.5 years old. I'm thinking of returning the bushings I don't end up using and picking up a set of new front lower ball joints.

    Thoughts?

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  7. #35
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    IMG_20180217_103222.jpg

    New lugs. Thanks 949 . The other ones were annoying since they were 17mm and didn't work with my toolset. Went 19mm and lighter - winwin. This should be the last of any exterior red on the car.

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  9. #36
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Actually replaced the clutch master/slave recently with the full kit from treasurecoast. Everything was going well until I needed to remove the portion of the coiled line that hooks up just under the main harness above the tranny. Solution? Bend and twist it until it broke, and slipped it off in two pieces. Solo bleeding resulted in being quite sore from the ~40 squats that were conducted. Otherwise, the pedal feels much better, and it's nice to see clean fluid again.

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  11. #37
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Man, that’s hardcore. I like the direct-line so I’m not busy calling my cousins to come pump my clutch pedal and I don’t even have cousins.


    No todo que es oro brilla.

  12. #38
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    I should have shopped around a little longer. There was a similarly priced kit that replaced the ENTIRE hose - but after I reread it...it was the same thing actually where only the portion after the first hardline was replaced. Sometime later I'll get the whole line replaced. Gravity bleeding was slow

  13. #39
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I've bled a clutch solo, it's not fun, but not impossible.

    Water bottle with cap, 2-3 feet of clear tubing, brake fluid.

    Drill a hole in the cap a little larger than the hose. A loose fit will allow air in the bottle to escape as it fills with fluid.

    Fill the bottle with 1-3" of fluid, so the end of the hose is submerged.
    The other end of the hose goes on the bleeder nipple.
    Open the nipple, top off the master's reservoir and pump 6-8 times, listening for the air bubbles in the bottle.
    Refill reservoir, repeat.
    Close the nipple, look for air bubbles in the tubing, refill reservoir, pump 8-10 times
    Open nipple ...pump, fill, repeat.
    Usually 3-4 of those cycles will do it. The fluid in the bottom of the bottle (with the tube submerged) will prevent air from getting back in the line.

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  15. #40
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Clear tubing...that...I missed. And now - after you said the procedure - I understand the purpose of the prefilled bottle. I thought to myself - how the hell am I supposed to see the bubbles coming out of the line if I'm in the car pumping?!??!? I went the long way.

    Installed new slave and master and SS line. Fill to the brim...

    Attach hose to prefilled bottle...

    *Squat
    Open bleeder valve
    Unsquat - walk to the other side
    Squat
    Push gas pedal in by hand
    Affix X length blunt object to keep pedal down
    Unsquat - walk to the other side
    Squat
    Close bleeder valve
    Unsquat - walk to the other side
    Squat
    Remove blunt object and pull pedal back
    Unsquat - walk to the other side
    Repeat from *

    Holy hell - just realized it's 4 squats per full cycle. So yeah...at least 40 squats . I gave up with the hose at some point since it WAS tight enough to fit over the bleeder valve, but wasn't tight enough once there was clutch fluid on it

  16. #41
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Ordered LE tie rod ends and need to schedule for an alignment. Was going to corner balance, but will have to forgo it to repair the subframe. Next time!

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  18. #42
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Tubing should be tight on the bleeder. I soften the end slightly with a lighter, slip it on the bleeder, hold it tight until the hose cools (a few seconds). It’s best to have a 8mm box wrench already on the bleeder before fitting the hose.

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  20. #43
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    After carrying the spare new OEM coil pack in the truck for 2 years...it finally served its purpose. Car felt weird going home today. Pulled the car over just before getting on the freeway. Wiggled everything - still weird. Pulled out each wire one by one and noticed that when pulling the third cylinder wire, the engine didn't sound any different. So no spark on number 3. Out comes the tool box from the trunk, the spare coil pack. Replaced and fired up the car. Smooth. Back on the road I went.

    Reflection.

    1. THANK GOD I never reinstalled that third bolt the last time I touched the coil pack. I have a feeling I'd be there a lot longer.

    2. Guess COPs are on the list sooner than later!

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  22. #44
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    Need some input/help :-/

    As you know, I recently changed the coil packs. A couple of days later, the car was acting really strange so I pull over, and see that I knocked off the CC vacuum line by accident. I put it back on and was on my merry way. Now, yesterday the car is doing really strange things on idle. It revs sporadically to ~2k rpm, while seeming to "upfire?" I opened the hood, and essentially there's air puffing/popping out of the intake box. I've been used to it happening randomly. But this is - actually loud and causing my idle to go up. Outside of idle, the car's does fine if that's believable. I need to check the CEL code. That will be later today. Any thoughts?

    Also going to try to reset the battery as maybe the car relearned the fuel/timing maps while the CC vacuum line was off, and now that it's on, it's freaking out? (long shot).

  23. #45
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    If you have a CEL, considering the intake burping you describe, I wonder if there's a timing issue going on. Because of my past issues on my '92, I would also be suspicious of the circuit controlling relay (many refer to it as the fuel relay that is under the dash). All is speculation without the code, though.

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