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Thread: My 1996 BRG NA8C Build Thread

  1. #241
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Incredible pics as usual Steve! What camera and lens(for most shots) you use?
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  2. #242
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Simply stunning as always.. thanks for the eye candy!!

  3. #243
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Incredible pics as usual Steve! What camera and lens(for most shots) you use?
    Im not using anything mind blowing, really. I'm using a Canon 60D and usually use a 24-70mm L lens. I also have a sigma 18-35mm Art lens which is great for videos

    Quote Originally Posted by oldgrayleather View Post


    Simply stunning as always.. thanks for the eye candy!!
    Thanks mate!

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  5. #244
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    05/08/2017

    Driving through Old Pacific Highway. I love coming here on the weekends and tackling corner after corner on the blacktop. It gives me an escape and it's where you can just drive for the sheer love of driving. Not only that, you always see cool bikes and amazing cars on this road. This particular day there was a silver 240Z following me; a car which I intend to purchase as a new project hopefully sooner rather than later. It was a lot of fun going through the twisties with the 240Z right behind me.

    Gorgeous blue skies, suns out, no clouds, top down, gloves on, music off...and just drive...

    Many thanks to Q Stop Photography for these photos!
    https://www.facebook.com/qstopphotography/




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  7. #245
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    10/08/2016

    Went on a drive with Dan in his supercharged NA6CE MX-5 to Lithgow via Bells Line of Road. Sydney's been having some amazing weather and I have been taking full advantage of this where and when I can!

    Bells Line is a nice bit of road to drive but I never really had a destination. You can take this road and travel all the way to Bathurst and to Mount Panorama and the race track if you really wanted to but thats a good 2.5 hours. SO whenever I'd drive on Bells Line I'd normally make it to just before Mt Wilson and then turn around and go back. But this time, Dan's friend opened up a cafe in Lithgow so it was nice to drive the length of the road all the way there and then drive all the way back again. Top down, of course!







    Pit stop on Bells Line of Road.



    Stopped by at Mt Wilson before heading back.



    This place looks better in Autumn as all the leaves are still on the trees and are bright red, but it still had a charm about it!


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  9. #246
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    03/09/2017

    Fujitsubo Legalis R catback. Can't wait to install this and to finally have a nice exhaust note on WOT!











    SARD sports high flow catalytic converter. This will be mated to the catback.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 09-20-2017 at 04:38 AM.

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  11. #247
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! MikeA's Avatar
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    That is a thing of immense beauty.

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  13. #248
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    03/09/2017

    My engine bay has gone through a few changes since I've owned the MX-5. It started off from being a complete stock standard looking engine bay as it was a 100% factory original car, but as I've added things like intake pipes, strut bars etc over the years, the overall look changed with every mod.

    Decided to get the intake pipe powder coated in the same textured black as my rocker cover and intake manifold. Initially I left the pipe polished because I thought it would go well with the strut brace and tie it all in but in hindsight I should have done it back then. It looks so much better.

    Factory looking engine bay.



    Polished intake pipe.



    Engine bay as it currently stands.


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  15. #249
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    I dig it! Seems to clash less which looks better IMO.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  17. #250
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    94 Laguna/Tan
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    Looks great!! I love the green and gold accents.

    I just painted my washer bottle and coolant overflow black. Used some bumper paint. When I get back to my car I can take a pic, but I think it looks so much better. You may consider it...

    Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
    '94 M-Edition - Stock - SOLD
    '94 Laguna/Tan - Stock [currently being restored]

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  19. #251
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NotableGuest View Post
    Looks great!! I love the green and gold accents.

    I just painted my washer bottle and coolant overflow black. Used some bumper paint. When I get back to my car I can take a pic, but I think it looks so much better. You may consider it...

    Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
    I like to see the fluid inside the tank for both the overflow and the washer bottle.

  20. #252
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    ENGINE & TRANSMISSION
    - Advanced Cam Timing +14 Degrees
    - Arrive Intake Pipe
    - Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel
    - GarageStar Lightweight Alternator Pulley
    - GarageStar Lightweight Water Pump Pulley
    - Gates Racing Performance Timing Belt
    - Koyorad 36mm Hyper-V Core Aluminium Radiator
    - Mazdaspeed Ignition Leads
    - Mazdaspeed Induction Box
    - Mazdaspeed Oil Cap
    - Mazdaspeed Panel Air Filter
    - Mazdaspeed Radiator Cap (1.3 Bar)
    - MiataRoadster Short Shifter
    - NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
    - OEM Mazda Intake Manifold (Satin Black)
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover (Satin Black)
    - Samco Silicone Coolant Hoses
    - SARD Racing Thermostat
    - Toda Racing Lightweight Flywheel (4.5kg)
    - Toda Racing Sports Clutch + Spigot Ring
    - Fujitsubo Legalis-R Catback Exhaust
    - SARD Sports High Flow Catalytic Converter


    SUSPENSION & HANDLING
    - Beatrush Rear Strut Brace
    - GarageStar Delrin Door Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Engine Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Front Strut Brace
    - Ohlins DFV Coilovers
    - RacingBeat Sway Bar End Links (F+R)


    WHEELS, BRAKES & TYRES
    - Dixcel Type M Brake Pads (F+R)
    - Dixcel Type SD Slotted Rotors (F+R)
    - Goodridge SS Braided Brake Lines
    - Goodridge SS Braided Clutch Line
    - H&R TRAK+ 5mm Spacers (54.1 Hubcentric)
    - Pirelli Cinturato P1 Tyres (185/60/R14)
    - RS-Watanabe Type-A (14x6.5 +4.5 Final Offset)
    - RS-Watanabe Centre Caps
    - RS-Watanabe Lug Nuts
    - RS-Watanabe Valve Stems


    EXTERIOR
    - B1 Hybrid Polarg Parkers and Tail Lamp Bulbs
    - Bosch Aerotwin Wiper Blades
    - Depo Clear Front Indicator Lamps
    - Front Number Plate Mounting Bracket
    - JDM Eunos Fog Lights
    - KG Works Chrome Washer Nozzles
    - Nielex Fuse Box Sticker
    - NoPro Washer Bottle Relocation
    - OEM Mazda Genuine Front Lip
    - Philips 4300K Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
    - Raybrig Crystal Reflector Headlamps
    - Runabout M2 Mirrors
    - ZOOM Engineering Amber Side Indicators
    - ZOOM Engineering Eunos Lotus Emblem
    - ZOOM Engineering Retro Fuel Lid


    INTERIOR
    - Arrive Mahogany Wood Handbrake Handle
    - Carbing DASH Foot Rest Pedal
    - Garage5 Brushed Aluminium Vent Rings
    - HKB Boss Kit
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Gearshift Boot
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Handbrake Boot
    - JASS Performance Sun Visor Plugs
    - JDM Eunos Sunglass Holder
    - JDM Eunos Chrome Door Sills
    - Joyfast Chrome Gear Knob (Super Short)
    - Joyfast Chrome Handbrake Button
    - Nakamae Cup Holder
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Belt Line Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Lower Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Side Step Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Transmission Tunnel Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Upper Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamichi CD400 Headunit
    - Nardi Classico 360mm Wood Steering Wheel
    - Nardi Tokyo Horn Button
    - OEM Mazda 93LE Speaker Grilles
    - OEM Mazda Silver Tweeters
    - RevLimiter Retro Window Switch
    - RevLimiter "Type MX-5" BRG Door Sill Inserts
    - RS Products Classic Retro Cluster
    - RS Products Classic Retro Switch
    - Vintage Mazda Chrome Cigarette Lighter
    - Zeromotive M2-1002 Style Pedals


    MAINTENANCE/OEM REPLACEMENT/MISC
    - Carbon Canister Delete
    - Front Tie Down Hooks Removed
    - Reconditioned Fuel Line Metal Shroud
    - Reconditioned Power Window Tracks & Bushings
    - Reconditioned Rear Plastic Windshield
    - Reconditioned Wiper Arms
    - OEM Mazda Camshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Auxiliary Hoses Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Overflow Tank Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Crankshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda External Tensioner Belt Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Fuel Filter Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Grommet Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Idler Bearings Replacement
    - OEM Mazda NA6 Oil Pressure Sender Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Panasonic Battery Replacement (Replaced 28/07/2016)
    - OEM Mazda PCV Valve Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Line Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Pump Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Parcel Shelf Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Shifter Insulation Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch End Cap Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Striker Plate Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Third Brake Light Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Lower Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Upper Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Water Pump Replacement


    09/09/2017

    Fujitsubo Legalis-R Catback Exhaust + SARD Sports High Flow Catalytic Converter
    Decided to install the catback and the high flow cat today. To be honest, I wasn't expecting it to be such a pain in the ass to get the old system off but it was. Upon further inspection, it seems like that the previous owner had put exhaust tape around the muffler tip and the exhaust pipe itself had a lot of rust. It was definitely time to upgrade. I tried to take photos along the way but I didn't take as many this time around.

    Car jacked up, ready to take off the stock exhaust.



    Rusted out pipes.



    Exhaust finally out!



    Close-up of the muffler. You can see someone had wrapped the tip in exhaust tape.



    Stock cat. This thing absolutely refused to come off the exhaust. I was able to get it off from the manifold but it was being one stubborn pain in the ass.



    OEM exhaust manifold. (Picture came out blurry)



    SARD sports high flow catalytic converter ready to go!



    In order for the OEM exhaust to come out, I needed to take off the rear bumper. This gave me a chance to give everything a thorough cleaning. I had previously given a good clean behind the rear garnish and realised how dirty it was.



    After a good scrub it came out real nice!





    There was a lot of caked up dirt accumulated over the years behind these black flaps. Happy to say that it's now all clean.





    New exhaust on!











    Video clip of OEM vs Fujitsubo catback exhaust.



    Overall, I'm extremely happy with the exhaust. When it is idling, it sounds pretty much exactly like the OEM exhaust, i.e quiet and non intrusive. When it is at wide open throttle, the sound from the exhaust is there but it's not overly or obnoxiously loud. At normal speeds it does not drone and is very comfortable.

    I would recommend this exhaust if you're wanting a catback which mimics the factory exhaust in terms of sound and livability. If you're after noise, this isn't the exhaust for you as I can imagine a lot of people saying that this is too quiet for an aftermarket exhaust. For me however, it was exactly what I was looking for and couldn't be happier. I will record another video soon.
    Last edited by BRGNA8; 09-11-2017 at 05:34 AM.

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  22. #253
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    INCREDIBLE work as usual Steve! Attention to detail is impressive as always!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  24. #254
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    16/09/2017

    As much as I like to tinker with and modify my car, I also like to make sure that my car is looking presentable too. I personally find that there's something therapeutic about cleaning and washing my car. I generally consider myself to be a clean person and I try to keep my cars the same way by giving them a wash at least once a month, vacuuming the interior, getting rid of any dirt, dust and grime and protecting/prolonging the paintwork.However, ever since I purchased the car back in 2015, it has never had a full detail. It has been washed, sure...but it was never given the full treatment. As a result, fine scratches and spider webbing had appeared on the paintwork which you can't tell from afar but can definitely tell when up close. It's these scratches and webbing which gives the paint a dull appearance. It was time to restore the paintwork and give it the detail that it needs.

    I'm by no means a professional car detailer but I know enough to know what to do to help bring back the shine and depth to the paintwork, to remove the scratches as well as how to maintain the paintwork going forward. The steps I used were :

    1) Rinse car down to remove as much dirt as possible before hand wash. Using a snowfoam lance would help but I decided to just rinse it down with water.

    2) Use two bucket method to hand wash car with super soft lambs wool wash mitts and pH neutral shampoo.

    3) After wash, cleanse the paintwork with a claybar to remove any surface contamination. This will lift and remove all the fine dirt on the paint and will result in a smooth glass-like finish.

    4) Restore dull, faded or heavily swirled paint with a heavy cut polish, cutting pad and random orbital buffer. This was the boot lid for me.

    5) Remove moderate swirls and oxidation with a medium cut polish, polishing pad and random orbital buffer. I used this for the rest of the car.

    6) Enhance gloss and depth with finishing polish. finishing pad and random orbital buffer. This gives the paintwork that extra shine and a deeper gloss.

    The next steps would have been to use a high grade carnauba wax like Swissvax and a paint sealant such as Gyeon MOHS+ but I didn't have either one of these products so I only got as far as polishing and I just finished it off with a quick detailer but I have to say, the paintwork really did come up amazing after all this. The wax and sealant would have topped it off.

    Remember to always make sure the car is cool and preferably undercover/in shade before starting any washing or detailing. Never let a product dry on the car unless it states that it must on the label.
    I'll let the pictures do the talking.

    Rinse down the car with water to remove any loose dirt before hand wash.



    Products I used. From left to right :
    * Menzerna HC400 Heavy Cut Compound
    * Menzerna PF2400 Medium Cut Polish
    * Menzerna SF3500 Super Finish Polish
    * Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller Iron Remover
    * Dodo Juice Born To Be Mild Maintenance Shampoo
    * Dodo Juice Supernatural Shampoo
    * Dodo Juice Gentle Grey Clay Bar
    * Mint Clay Bar Lube
    * Optimum Instant Detailer + Gloss Enhancer



    Since I would be doing a full detail, I decided to use the Dodo Juice Supernational Shampoo. pH neutral and a highly concentrated shampoo. One pump for every 3 litres of water.



    After the wash, I used the Dodo Juice Gentle Grey clay bar and the Mint clay bar lube to clay the car.



    This is the result after one quarter panel. Remember to fold the clay bar to reveal a fresh surface of clay before moving on to a different panel.



    This was the boot and rear of the car. Pretty hectic.



    This was the door and rear panels.



    This was the bonnet.



    After a wash and clay, you can now see that there are some scratches and marks on the paint. This would be rectified with polish.



    More scratches and marks needing attention.



    Mask up the rubbers and black plastic trim on the car to prevent it from leaving stains from the polish. If they're not masked up, these can leave a white chalky residue from the polish.



    Prepping the car for polish by masking up all the rubbers and black plastics.





    My bootlid was particularly bad with all the fine swirls and scratches and spider webbing, so I used Menzerna HC400 heavy cut compound to remove them.



    Use a correction buffing pad and put four 5c sized dabs on the pad. This was probably a little bit too much for my application. You can use less than the amount shown here and achieve the same result.



    Spread the polish by first dabbing it onto the car with the buffer



    Start with the lowest speed of the buffer and distribute the polish to the area. Go slow and make a few passes with the buffer before gradually increasing the speed until most of the polish has disappeared. Then wipe off the remainder of the polish off with a microfibre cloth.



    The rest of the car wasn't as bad as my bootlid, so the whole car was then treated with Menzerna PF2400 medium cut polish.



    Same as before. Using a medium cut foam pad, you only need a small amount on the pad. Distribute the polish by dabbing it on to the car with the buffer before turning it on.



    The MX-5's never came with a clearcoat so unless your car has had a respray and a clearcoat was sprayed on, your pad will turn into the colour your car is when polishing. Keep this in mind and remember not to go too crazy with the buffer, otherwise you might fade the paint.



    After a full once over with the medium cut polish, you can truly see the results and it's already looking 100x better. To enhance that gloss even further and to give the paint an extra layer of depth, I finished it off with Menzerna SF3500 super finish polish. Again, same principle. Use a finishing pad and the amount of polish shown should be enough for one door/panel.



    Dab and distribute the polish on the area you'd like to work on.



    Lowest speed first, then gradually build up the speed and work the polish in.



    I also took the time to polish the lips on my wheels with this wheel polish I received from Barrel Bros when I had my wheels refurbished by them.



    I gave my windows and windshield a clean too with Dodo Juice Clearly Menthol glass cleaner and a streak-free glass cleaning cloth.



    It's really hard to tell but the photos do not do it justice. I didn't have good lighting to highlight just how well the car came up. After all that work, the car is definitely looking a million times better and the BRG paintwork is so much deeper now. Very pleased with the result. I'll take some better pictures soon.


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  26. #255
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Awesome Steven! I find cleaning and restorations therapeutic as well... ��

    If car was waxed, you could do the 1st wash with dishwashing soap; it helps removing all the old wax before claying, but it is not reccomended for regular washes of course. I like to do an intermediate wash after clay bar and before polishing to remove any lubricant and stray particles. Also, using a wax/sealant at the end makes paint harder to get contaminated again and makes cleaning a breeze. It only takes a quick wash every now and then and some quick detailer, and it will come out like new. Clay bar and re-waxing could be done every 6 months to keep it on top notch condition without need to repolish and cut too much paint.

    You can clay bar/polish/wax your glass surfaces as well.

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