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Thread: Shelby aka the 2003 Ford Mustang's journey from GT to GT350

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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Shelby aka the 2003 Ford Mustang's journey from GT to GT350

    First off I'd like to introduce myself, I am Greasmonkey2000 aka Chad to those that know me a little better than just a name on a forum and I had a three year build that I unfortunately had to part out and sell mostly stock, far too soon. Some of you may be familiar with the Warbird and if not that is ok too but feel free to check out Warbird's build thread at your leisure.

    This is my non-Miata build thread for my newly acquired 2003 Ford Mustang GT that I have decided to call Shelby. Why Shelby? In honor of Carroll Shelby of course. The reason is because I plan to do a sort of homage to the Mustang GT350.

    The build is going to be more fluid than set in stone but I already have some ideas. The basic idea is to take ideas from the earlier GT350 and later/modern GT350 cars. The three main areas will be 1)suspension, 2)power and finally 3)cosmetics, with the former two being the most important ones and where part of Carroll Shelby's 'winning formula'.

    Let's get right to it. The project is one 2003 Ford Mustang GT wearing Dark Shadow Gray(Ford paint code CX) exterior paint and Dark Charcoal leather interior(interior code XW) with 93,211 miles upon purchase. Here are some interior/exterior pics:










    It came equipped with a 4.6L over head cam motor....as seen here....

    ...rated at 260hp/305tq with a 5 spd Tremec manual transmission(TR-3650 rated for 360 lbs/tq) and a 8.8" live axle rear differential with 3.27 gear ratio. It already had a few mods and they are as follows:

    Engine/Drivetrain-
    -SR Performance 70mm (?) throttle body
    -SR Performance(?) cold air intake
    -unknown aftermarket clutch
    -unknown short throw shifter
    -Flowmaster exhaust
    -BAMA performance tune(these cars REALLY respond and need a tune ASAP)

    Suspension/wheels & tires-
    -Eibach lowering springs
    -American Muscle anthracite grey Bullitt style wheels in 18x9(F) and 18x10(R) with 245/40/18 Sumitomo HTRZ II(160AA tread wear) in the front and 285/35/18 in the rear

    Exterior-
    -Front Mach 1 style chin spoiler
    -front Mach 1 style grille delete
    -Raxiom smoked projector headlights w/ 'halos'

    I could have done with out the aftermarket headlights but the factory headlights aren't great an at least these seem to be aimed well and have pretty good light output. They may end up getting replaced with OEM style lights.

    It did have a few issues that the previous owner made me aware of. The first and biggest being some underbody rust....this is usually a deal breaker and the conversation usually stops there but after some pics(and verification in person) that showed what seem to only be surface rust on replaceable parts like control arms, etc. I decided I would live with it...see for yourself...



    ...it actually looks worse in pics believe it or not and given the fact it had been up north, Pennsylvania iirc, its whole life up until a few years ago I think it is very minimal.

    The next came about as a result of the previous owner installing some gauge overlay's and in the process made the tachometer get stuck and now the back lighting for the instrument cluster not light up but he thought it was just a connector came loose. I'm sure it will be a fairly easy fix.

    Another issue that he said occurred on occasion was the fan would sound like it was hitting the shroud but upon hearing it myself I think the fan itself is going out, again not a big and relatively inexpensive repair.

    The last one that he brought to my attention was the battery light coming on occasionally but never staying on very long and the car had never failed to start or exhibit charging issues.

    One that I found was what sounded like the bearing on the auto tensioner going out, he made no mention of this but I think he was mistaking two different sounds as one in the same for the 'fan shroud' issue.

    The drive home was uneventful, thankfully, but the sound of the Flowmaster exhaust and the added power from added parts made it very enjoyable. Will try to get some quality pics ASAP as these are all from the seller. Hope you check back in from time to time and participate when you feel the need!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 01-23-2017 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Updated information
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  3. #2
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Now that is badass!


    No todo que es oro brilla.

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  5. #3
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    A Pony owner now? You moved to the dark-side on color. Liking that! Just yell if you need questions answered on the fixes and faults that may pop up. No bad mojo to you. Just know that some noises sound like one and are another on those.

    I'll welcome you at 'Palooza in your 'Stang. You just have to park outside. LOL

    Peace nut!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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  7. #4
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @AgentOrange: Thanks! Why am I not surprised you approve.


    @NCGreasemonkey: Thanks Rick!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    01-27-17, Mileage- 92,323: So I guess there is no such thing as 'karma'. Why do I say this? Because yesterday I went out to the garage to take Shelby to run a few errands only to find she wouldn't start and what else would it be but a battery! And after I replaced my '97M battery with a brand new one just before selling....oh well.

    Of course the negative terminal bolt was stripped so I just cut it of with a angle grinder as well as the positive to just replace them both at the same time. Then I found the try was pretty nasty, looks like a previous battery leaked, and the lower bolt for the try was rotted away...so I had to drill it out.

    Went and picked up a new battery from a local auto parts store with a 3yr warranty(didn't have the one specifically for my application so I just measure mine and found a similar sized one but it had 690CCA instead of 590CCA), battery hold down kit(mostly for the correct length/size bolt), new battery post connections and anti-corrosion pads. I decided to just wait to install till today.

    Pretty straight forward of course so right to some pics, first that nasty tray....


    ...I cleaned it up but it still a little stained....


    ......the new parts.....


    .....and everything installed....



    ....not surprising it started right up! So I guess the battery light 'mystery' has been solved. The other battery had a manufacturer date of February 2013 so it was time for a new one either way as most batteries only last 2-3 years. If you get 4-5 years then you are doing really well or at least this was my observation in the eight or so months of working at a auto parts store.

    I have ordered some parts to fix the gauge cluster issue as well as some 'eye candy' for the interior, that should be here next week.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  10. #6
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift theothersawyer's Avatar
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    Love it! I'm a big Ford guy and huge Mustang fan! Sometimes I wonder why I have a Miata and a 3 series and not a mustang! Lol

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  12. #7
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Chad, Chad, Chad...

    You are the OCD for details. Do I need to PM you about those battery terminals? You know better. Electricity ( Boogy woogy woogy ), air and Copper do not like to be together for long. Electrical tape is not the cure. Love you Guy! Don't want you to have problems in a couple of months!

    Don't make me kick the spurs on a replacement, local but not yet met in-person, Chad that is siggy'd Grendel and has not done the newby Hello yet.

    All I know is he works where I shop. Has an NA, stealth TSI's. Turdblo'd. Black and red body panels.

    He works in the Bovine dept.. So, yes, 1 1/2" Porterhouse availability is part of my fondness!

    Peace doner to Noir and fellow nut!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

  13. #8
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theothersawyer View Post
    Love it! I'm a big Ford guy and huge Mustang fan! Sometimes I wonder why I have a Miata and a 3 series and not a mustang! Lol
    That is crazy! Glad to hear you should be half way entertained by the build, Danny, I will try not to bore you or disappoint to badly.

    Quote Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey View Post
    Chad, Chad, Chad...

    You are the OCD for details. Do I need to PM you about those battery terminals? You know better. Electricity ( Boogy woogy woogy ), air and Copper do not like to be together for long. Electrical tape is not the cure. Love you Guy! Don't want you to have problems in a couple of months!
    Rick, Rick, Rick.....sometimes I just don't know what you are saying good sir. Guess I did not receive the 'How to communicate/understand NCGreasemonkey for Dummies' because I really feel like I need one sometimes. In all seriousness I really don't know what I am getting chastised for.

    The high quality 3M electrical tape is simply there to help keep the wires together as pretty much all the exposed wire is in the terminal. Is this because they aren't 'oem' terminal contacts? If so I don't think much of them as most are too thin with too small of bolts, imo, and experience. I am open to criticism and suggestions but really not sure where you are going with it.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 01-28-2017 at 02:40 AM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  15. #9
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    01-27-17, cont'd: It would appear that the battery did not cure the 'battery light' issue and from my experience and my online searching for this particular make/model it seems the alternator is more than likely to blame....yay spend more money that I don't have! So it goes with cars/life.


    While talking about money I don't have I thought I would put together a list of modifications and goals for Shelby. I already said why I named her Shelby, in honor of Carroll Shelby, but didn't go into much explanation for the 'GT to GT350' details.

    The reason for a sort of GT350 tribute build is because it was the entry level performance model Carroll Shelby made and that usually used the same displacement v8 as the other non-Shelby model Mustang's but with some more parts to make it faster. Of course parts to add power was just part of the treatment and Carroll Shelby understood that handling was important to making a car fast as well.

    Another reason for the GT350 designation is that it is the GT and plan to end up at around 300whp aka 350hp at the crank(approximately), so that the 350 designation would be fitting because car companies have used number designations for cars in reflection of how much power they made at the crank.

    It really is as simple as those few reasons. Obviously they didn't offer GT350/500 trims for over 30+yrs before doing another and that wasn't till the generation after mine, the S197 chassis. So I'm not making a 'clone' per se.

    Yes, people will undoubtedly talk trash about the GT350 designation, especially since I will probably do some of the 'GT350' cosmetic mods well before I reach the horsepower goal of 300whp, I'm ok with this....on to the list, this of course is a rough draft and may change as the build progresses but I have put a decent amount of thought/research into it.

    Future Modifications:

    Engine
    -Larger aftermarket throttle body(currently 70mm, so 78mm or bigger)
    -Aftermarket MAF housing(larger?)
    -JLT CAI and possibly a Shaker setup eventually
    -Long tube headers(may decide on shorty headers instead)
    -Aftermarket catted H pipe(H over X for the v8 rumble vs higher pitch tone of the X)
    -SLP Loudmouth catback(haven't decide between ver. 1 or 2)
    -Stage 2 cams(yes a generic term, sorry)
    -Upgraded valve springs/retainers
    -Steeda Underdrive pulleys(undecided on this mod)
    -Larger injectors(24lbs/hr or possibly bigger?)
    -Retune as needed via BAMA tuner
    -Aftermarket heads(if I HAVE to have 300+whp)

    Transmission/drivetrain
    -Lightweight flywheel(it may have one, not sure at this point)
    -Aluminum driveshaft
    -Differential gears(it may also already have these, not sure, if not 3.73's more than likely)

    Suspension
    -Full length subframe connectors, weld in of course
    -Aftermarket struts(QA1 more than likely)
    -Aftermarket control arms(oem ones have rust so why not)
    -Aftermarket k member(undecided) or K member brace(if I do shorty headers)
    -Aftermarket sway bars
    -Bump steer kit(it may have one already, not sure)
    -Camber plates
    -Panhard bar setup
    -Torque-Arm setup

    Exterior
    -Cobra grille emblem(on its way)
    -GT350 rocker panel stripe/decal in black
    -Replace the headlights with oem/similar
    -Sequential taillight kit
    -Quarter window scoop(undecided)
    -GT350 badges(probably '68 GT350 badges since mine is an '03 and 1968 plus 35 is 2003, lol, undecided)
    -Different wheels, possibly some Weld or similar looking wheels, with more rubber
    -Front/rear 03/04 Cobra bumpers
    -Trunk w/ no spoiler or duckbill type(undecided)
    -Billet aluminum fuel door
    -Different hood if I don't do a Shaker setup

    Interior
    -03/04 Mach 1 gauges(on there way)
    -red LEDS for the gagues/hvac
    -LED's for dome/map light(on there way)
    -Chrome gauge bezel rings(on there way, couldn't find brushed/satin ones)
    -Push button start(on its way)
    -Billet aluminum headlight knob(on its way)
    -Billet aluminum headlight bezel(on its way)
    -Billet aluminum turn signal cover
    -Billet aluminum door handles
    -Billet aluminum window switches
    -Billet aluminum pedal covers
    -Billet aluminum shifter trim
    -Billet aluminum steering title wheel lever
    -Billet aluminum shift knob
    -Billet aluminum HVAC knobs
    -Billet aluminum door locks
    -Billet aluminum lock grommet
    -Aftermarket floor mats with Cobra emblem or GT350(the latter would have to be custom from what I have seen)
    -Cobra steering wheel airbag
    -Aftermarket seats(undecided as the driver seat is pretty good with all the adjustments and inflatable lumbar support)
    -Shelby serial number tag(1968 style)
    -Metal door sills



    So that is my 'rough list', lol. As you can see lots of metal on the interior once again, why? Because I loved how it looked in Warbird and given the GT350 tribute I think it will work well and look good. The above power mods from my research SHOULD get me close to 300whp(270-290whp depending on exact parts) and if I still want more than probably aftermarket heads(Twisted Wedge or Patriot) and aftermarket intake will get me well over 300whp. I don't expect Shelby to progress quit as fast as Warbird did but time will tell!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 01-28-2017 at 02:39 AM. Reason: details/clarification
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  17. #10
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    Chad, this is awesome. I am also a Ford guy between the big 3. But I do like the Corvette. I am definitely going to watch where this build goes. First because it's different. Second because it's a Mustang. Third is because you are doing it and your Miata build was so bad ass. Good luck man. This is going to be fun!

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  19. #11
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @tsingson: Thanks, Anthony! Your support and enthusiasm is very much appreciated!

    I completely understand people's strong feelings towards mustangs, good or bad, and i have been there but i think like most those feelings, at least when negative, have more to do with the drivers they have encountered, which is unfortunate. Mustang's have a rich heritage and sold as many uniits in the first two years then it took mazda to sell Miata's in over 16 years!(one million)

    That alone is impressive and to date sold more than nine million Mustang's!! Granted most have been v6 models and not performance oriented models but most buy them because they 'look cool' or they have a family member or friend that had one and they want to 'relive' that feeling they had growing up and that is ok but...like Ricky Bobby said, "I just want to go fast!"
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  21. #12
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift theothersawyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    That is crazy! Glad to hear you should be half way entertained by the build, Danny, I will try not to bore you or disappoint to badly.
    You won't disappoint!

    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post

    Rick, Rick, Rick.....sometimes I just don't know what you are saying good sir. Guess I did not receive the 'How to communicate/understand NCGreasemonkey for Dummies' because I really feel like I need one sometimes. In all seriousness I really don't know what I am getting chastised for.
    :
    Hahaha I just died laughing because I feel the same way! Never have a clue what he is saying!

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  23. #13
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @theothersawyer: Thanks Danny! I think Rick uses his own 'pig latin' to confuse the masses and keep us from knowing that he is really a genius just trying to relate to the average joe...
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  25. #14
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    01-28-17: Checked the voltage at the alternator with the engine running and it showed a solid 14.5v. I didn't test with any load(lights, ac, etc) because it was in the garage so I didn't want to suffocate but will try that in the next day or two. From some quick Google searches, I found others having similar issue and a new tensioner and or belt resolved the issue.

    I received a few little interior pieces in the form of a UPR billet aluminum headlight knob w/ oem light logo, UPR billet aluminum headlight knob bezel and a back lite metal push button start switch.


    The UPR pieces are rather nice and included installation instructions, allen tool for the allen head for the headlight knob, alcohol wipe pads and double sided adhesive foam for the bezel. I decided to go ahead and install the two UPR pieces since they should be easy enough to install and will install the push button start in the next week or so.

    Removing the headlight knob was easy enough with some gentle prying and pressure against a metal tab but then just the knob came off, not sure if that was suppose to happen or not. The metal retaining clip came off with out too much persuasion and of course installing the two UPR pieces was as easy as the contents of the package would suggest.

    I honestly said I was going to take pics of Shelby as I bought her before doing anything but...I can't help myself. So onto the pics!





    I really like the UPR pieces as they seem to be good quality and look great!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 01-28-2017 at 05:24 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  27. #15
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift theothersawyer's Avatar
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    This thread made me look up Mustangs for sale. I thought about putting the 3 series up for sale for a split second!

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