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Thread: The 'I told you, you'd be back' build of Misfire, my NB2 w/ F1 inspiration

  1. #301
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-13-21, Mileage-127,575: As previously mentioned, Misfire has had a misfire since replacing the EGI Main relay. I have been racking my brain trying to figure it out. I have considered just about every possibility.

    Unfortunately I haven't had any codes UNTIL i stay on the throttle when the misfire occurs which is worst in higher gears(3rd-5th) between 3500-5500 rpms and the one of the ones I would get is a P0301, cylinder 1 misfire detected.

    I would also get a P0010, "A" camshaft position actuator circuit(bank 1), and P0012, "A" camshaft position-timing over retarded(bank 1). Again these would only occur if i tired to push thru the misfire which I rarely did because that isn't a great idea.

    I decided to go ahead and replace the fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs and plug wires(aftermarket 7mm) since the latter had been on Misfire since I purchased a little over 4.5yrs ago.

    I decided to go "full tilt" and get the fancy smancy 8.5mm Magnecor wires from Flyin Miata which they got shipped out quickly.






    Took Misfire for a drive and unfortunately the wires didn't fix the issue, oh well that is one maintenance item checked off.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  2. #302
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-18-21, Mileage-127,590: As already mentioned I ordered a new fuel pump(DW200 from SuperMiata) as this seemed to be the most likely culprit, all things considered.

    When looking at a replacement fuel pump, I found 5x Racing has the most comprehensive source of information for fuel pump options for the NA/NB that I came across. It seems Deatschwerks had become the go to option for fuel pumps for the Miata, not many vendors carry Walbro any more which is supposed to be because the Deatschwerks are quieter and more reliable design.

    Super Miata had the DW200 shipped quickly and received with in a few days of ordering, big thanks to them and other Miata vendors that get out parts quickly!


    This is the first time I have replaced a electric fuel pump and as far as they go this probably has to be one of the easier ones. I didn't take any pics for the process but its well documented and plenty of write ups and YouTube videos that cover it. It took about twenty minutes for me to remove the fuel pump assembly.


    As soon as I had the assembly out I could tell the pump had been replaced which I had already suspected based on the fact that it could be heard running where as the other two Miata's you only heard when it primed. My suspicions were confirmed when I removed the fuel pump and the isolation jacket.


    A Walbro GSS342 aka Walbro 255LPH, of course. This made replacement that much easier since the wire splicing was already done, just removed the old pump, installed the new DW200 with new fuel hose/clamps/mounting pad and filter. One thing I couldn't find a answer to is whether or not the plastic cover/wrap(that has DW200 255LPH on it) on the pump should be removed, I opted to remove it.


    The fuel pump replacement took all of 1.5hrs from start to finish and was easier than expected. I ordered the parts needed to rewire the pump directly to the battery for less voltage drop and to take some of the strain off the EGI Main relay but didn't receive the parts from Motec in time, so will do that later. Started Misfire up and all seemed well.

    I forgot to take notice of the fuel gauge level as I have heard of people having issues with the fuel level float getting hung up but I don't see what it would hang up on. Although the fuel gauge level did seem lower than it normal would be for the miles on that tank...will just monitor the next fill up and if I have to pull the assembly again, no big deal but hopefully I don't have to.


    I had also ordered new spark plugs from NGK. Last time I went with regular copper plugs(one step colder, BKR6E, had about 8k miles/4yrs) but decided to try out NGK's newest plug series, RUTHENIUM!


    Most won't see any point in paying nearly x4 as much for these over copper plugs but really even if you replace your plugs once a year(most enthusiast probably do every few years), is $50 vs $15 really going to put you in the poor house? :dunno: That's the way look at it. They are some fancy looking plugs and came at the 0.031" gap they were supposed to be at.

    I took Misfire for a quick drive and much to my dismay he still continues to live up to his name. I know some will say that doing a fuel pressure test could have saved me the time/money but by the time you decided that the pump may be the issue, I just went ahead and ordered. Not going to lie, I was pretty bummed either way.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  3. #303
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-19-21, Mileage-127,595: I was lying in bed last night thinking about the misfire issue and thought that maybe I should recheck where Misfire got his name sake in the first place, the Powercard wiring. So first thing this morning I got up and went out to the garage and laid on my back to check the connections from the ECU harness to the Powercard.

    I gave each one a decent tug, as it is my understanding that a proper connection should be able to take 20lbs of force, and two of the four came out of the bullet connector with very little force and the original trouble connection for injector #2 had just a few strands of wire for the connection to the ECU.

    One more took a bit more force to come out so I redid that one as well but the fourth seemed solid but that now means all connections have been redone at this point. No pics as this didn't seem interesting enough but maybe also because I'm ashamed that it wasn't done correctly from the beginning with a patch harness, shame on that person(not me).

    While I was under the dash I decided this mess had to be remedied once and for all.


    A aftermarket alarm that worked for a year or two after purchasing Misfire but has been on the fritz since and not been used since. After about a hour or so it looked much better.


    Here are the remains of the alarm install.


    I must admit I was VERY fortunate as whoever did the install used vampire clamps with female spade connections for all the main splices, so no OEM wires were actually cut in half and thus made removing very easy. The only part they actually severed connections was for the power windows because the alarm had a feature that would roll down the windows when the alarm was armed and the temperature was around 90F+.

    I actually tested this to make sure I wasn't crazy by arming the alarm in the morning during the summer and when it was cooler in the morning the windows were up as I had left them and then some time after noon they would roll down about a inch or so. I disarmed the alarm and they would stay up. A pretty neat feature actually and I had never seen this before.

    I decided to take Misfire for a drive before finishing up the window switch and wouldn't it figure as soon as I pull out it starts to pour down rain. So later this evening I took Misfire for a drive and the issue was GONE! I was so relieved!

    Granted I spent a few hundred dollars on parts that Misfire didn't necessarily "need" ATM but those were items that were going to get replaced sooner than later.

    In all honesty that amount pales in comparison to the parts hoarding that has been going on the last few months so expect to see more frequent updates from said parts and will get pics of Misfire with the new wheels/tires this week.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    HarryB (07-20-2021),Martin (07-20-2021),MiataQuest (07-20-2021)

  5. #304
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    This is why I hate wiring and have zero plans to ever run an aftermarket ECU if it doesn't simply plug in where the OEM one does with zero wiring changes anywhere in the car.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  7. #305
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    This is why I hate wiring and have zero plans to ever run an aftermarket ECU if it doesn't simply plug in where the OEM one does with zero wiring changes anywhere in the car.
    I hear you Bryan and don't love the wiring aspect either BUT the more I try to learn about it and try to become more proficient at it, the less I hate it and given ideal work conditions(not on your back, upside down under the dash) I am starting to enjoy it. Unfortunately this is probably one of the most goofed up aspects of modifying cars, Misfire's powercard installation is a perfect example.

    I think my new connections will last much longer since I bought and used a ratcheting crimper on 2 of the 3 connections, unfortunately the shortest one for injector #2 didn't have enough space for the ratcheting crimper so had to use a manual crimper.

    I just picked up a wideband and boost gauge so will get more wiring experience soon enough. I think I did a pretty good job on wiring in the gauges on Warbird, made a pnp harness, but I want to do better this time, maybe Deutsch connectors or similar. I don't like coming behind others "it's good enough" jobs so I try not to have that attitude or approach. I figure if I don't get better at something each time I do it then I'm doing something wrong.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  9. #306
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-27-21: Picked up some FS Performance Engineering splitter rods for Misfire's BBFW spoiler.




    These are very high quality and much nicer and beefier than the ones that came with the BBFW spoiler but in all fairness the FSP Engineering rods were almost 1/3 the cost of the BBFW spoiler. Obviously Moti chose a cost effective option for his kit which I definitely think was wise.



    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    atlex (07-28-2021),MiataQuest (07-31-2021)

  11. #307
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-28-21: I FINALLY got around to taking pics of Misfire with the new Rota Grid 15x7 +20 wheels and Continental ECS 205/50/15 tires after waking up and giving Misfire a much needed cleaning.












    So in regards to the new wheel/tire setup....I LOVE the tires and the fitment of the wheels, however I don't love them the way I did the RPF1's. The bronze is too glossy and looks different depending on the lighting which can be seen in these pics. Really wish they were a matte bronze.

    I also am not crazy about the concave spokes but unfortunately they don't offer the regular spoke design in this size/offset that I could find. Honestly kind of wish I would have just went ahead and got 15x8's but that would mean a +0mm offset which would mean flares with 205's, depending on ride height.

    This setup will be my back up/bad weather/road trip set so in the next 6-8 months I will probably pick up my "daily" setup with 200tw tires. I think I will like the current wheels once lowered, speaking of which.

    Due to my own indiscretions(those will be the subject of future posts ), Xida's will not be happening now but I did order coilovers today. Might as well let...


    ...ordered a set of Megan Racing EZ Street II coilovers(8k/6k or 448/336). I know what alot(most?) of you are thinking BUT I have drove a well sorted NA8(Chase, formally owned by Todd aka MC70) with the original EZ Street coilovers and they rode pretty good, imo.

    Granted my seat time was limited but this was comparing them back to back to the $2k custom Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers I had on Warbird at the time. They didn't ride quite as well and I'm confident wouldn't handle at the limits as well but we are comparing coilovers that were 1/4 the price of FCM's.

    This will be hold me over coilovers but will get rid of the HORRIBLE KYB Excel G's that are currently on Misfire and get rid of the wheel gap so I think they will suite my current expectations just fine. I SHOULD be able to get Xida's by the end of the year. The coilovers actually already shipped and should be here by Saturday, so I should be able to get them on next week.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 07-28-2021 at 12:10 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  13. #308
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    There's nothing wrong with buying something you enjoy. You don't have to have the best and brightest if something else will do. I certainly don't judge--it's how my car has been built and rebuilt.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  15. #309
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    There's nothing wrong with buying something you enjoy. You don't have to have the best and brightest if something else will do. I certainly don't judge--it's how my car has been built and rebuilt.
    For sure and not trying to say there is, just that I realize the VAST difference between a entry level part and top tier part. The Megan coilovers will serve there purpose and then go on to be part of someones "swag pack".
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  16. #310
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    08-02-21, Mileage-127,735: Got started installing the Megan Racing EZ Street II coilovers(also got a set of 4 coilover covers for free) and SuperMiata sway bar end links I received last week.




    I decided to compare the weight of the OEM coilovers with KYB Excel G shocks and the Megan Racing coilovers.
    Front OEM coilover @ 10lbs


    Front Megan Racing coilover @ 8.2lbs


    Rear OEM coilover @ 8.2lbs


    Rear Megan Racing coilover @ 5.8lbs


    So a difference of 3.6lbs less in the front and 4.8lbs in the rear for a total of 8.4lbs shed, not bad. I meant to weight the stock rear end links and Racing Beat end links and the SuperMiata end links but it slipped my mind.

    While I was at it I removed the Racing Beat front sway bar brace to refinish.


    I also went ahead and modified(area marked that got removed to access coilover adjuster) and painted the OEM fuel filler neck cover from the trunk.



    Had some rubber edge material bought for a few other projects that I used to line the area cut on the fuel filler cover.



    I also made a 3/4 cut on the liner in front of the fuel filler cover to access the driver side rear adjuster and cut out an area on the passenger side rear liner to access the coilover adjuster.

    Rear passenger side Megan Racing coilover and SuperMiata end link installed.


    Front driver side Megan Racing coilover and SuperMiata end link installed.


    Since coilover installs are so well documented I didn't get into the process but I used the long bolt method on the front and will say to make sure that you put load on the suspension(i used a jack at each corner and compressed until that corner just started to lift off the jack stand) before tightening anything down otherwise it will sit higher than it should.

    Misfire started out at 4 3/4"F and 5 1/8"R pinch weld heights.


    Ended up at 4 3/8"F and 4 5/8"R.


    So only lowered about 3/8"F and 1/2"R. This doesn't seem like much and I thought Misfire had stock springs but the starting numbers seemed lower than stock NB2's and the spring rates(8k/6k or 448/336) of the Megan Racing coilovers meant that a modest drop was best case scenario if a decent ride was to be achieved.

    My understanding is the spring rates should be about double to be at this ride height which I plan on going with 900/500 or 1000/500 when I get Xida's.

    I did the install over three days because I wasn't very motivated and the extra projects. I have swapped coilovers in about 2 hrs before but I think I had 12+hrs in this install. Plus I removed the side skirts which took at least 2hrs but looks so much better, imo. I had already removed the rear mud flaps when I installed the FS Performance Engineering splitter rods on the BBFW spoiler.

    I only have about 70+ miles on them so obviously they haven't even settled in but it is definitely a improvement over the KYB Excel G(arbage) shocks which I think were on there way out and the bump stops were disintegrated.

    My thoughts thus far is the Megan Racing coilovers aren't as compliant and you feel more things BUT handles MUCH better in terms of cornering/grip and handles bumps at speed much better.

    After thinking about it I remembered the NA8 i drove with Megan Racing coilovers was about 0.5"+ higher than Misfire's current ride height so obviously that makes a difference in compliance. In reality, with these springs rates that is probably the lowest it could be at and have good road compliance.

    I am still playing with the settings on the coilovers(at 12F/10R from soft, 15 total) and need to get an alignment but I am happy with the results for what they cost.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 08-11-2021 at 03:39 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  18. #311
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    09-06/07-21: A few months ago I picked up one of the key elements for my vision and the aero modifications for Misfire, a Difflow Lotus 5 Element Rounded rear diffuser!


    I also bought some more support rods from FS Performance support rods, a set of 10.25"-12" w/ quick release on one end and a set of 6.75"-8.5" in the same configuration.


    So the "rough"/"dry" fitting actually began back in July when I first got the diffuser and I went ahead and made the cut out for the exhaust. Unfortunately in my excitement I didn't take pics with the DSLR camera.

    I realized very quickly that I completely forgot to get the measurement for the distance between the two rear strakes! Thankfully their was approximately 1/4" of clearance on either side of the exhaust tip which are 7 1/8" and the area between the center strakes is 7 3/4". It also just so happened that the diffuser is approx. 48" wide and my previous bumper cut was approx. 50"! It was like it was meant to be!

    The process was pretty straight forward, with it sitting where I wanted I simply took a piece of aluminum that was cut off the Warhorse rear diffuser that was on Warbird and made markings on it in relation to the rear subframe bolts for the ladder braces.

    After multiple test fittings and cutting, I riveted the piece onto the Difflow diffuser.


    Having the rear Roadstersport PPF brace, I knew there was NO WAY I was going to make holes where the bolts would have to come completely out. Plus being "sandwiched" in there, I have no doubt that its plenty sturdy.

    Next I started figuring out where I would mount the support rods. I found that the outer most placement would work well by going thru the trunk, on the driver side where the storage bin is and on the passenger side where the battery is. For the inner support rods I was able to make use of empty bolt holes where the bumper support and chassis meet. These mounting locations made for very sturdy mounting and there is hardly any deflection in the diffuser when you try to move it.




    Oh and as you can see the rear tow hook towers had to be chopped off, a alternative tow hook placement will be addressed at a later date. From there I once again test fitted a few times before tightening down the support rods for their final placement and installing the diffuser.










    Even the top cut for the bumper cut was just high enough for the outer sections of the diffuser, although they just barely touch and may need a hair of material taken off the bumper.

    I probably have approx. 10+hrs on this project and not going to lie, half way into it I wish I had bought a Miata specific diffuser but I think the results were well worth it! What do y'all think?
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  20. #312
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    09-11-21: I took some garage and driveway pictures of the rear diffuser installed but I couldn't bare to use those, so went down the road and took some decent pictures to hopefully show how good it looks from every angle.







    I almost forgot that I picked up a extra set of shorter FS Performance support rod barrels to replace the outer support rod barrels to drop the angle from approx. 36 degrees AoA to 27 degrees.







    After driving with the diffuser installed I can report there is some occasional "rattling" which I know is from the muffler moving and where the added piece is touching the PPF brace, which the latter I thought I had removed enough metal, guess not.

    I think some urethane muffler hangers should help with the muffler movement and I can obviously remove more material from the piece that is touching the PPF brace.

    In case anyone is wondering, I am not the first to fit this diffuser to a Miata. Fellow Miata enthusiast and Texan, Evan aka shadowmx5(iirc) had one on his beautiful 99AE, as seen here:


    So I already knew that it would work and what it would look like. Really wish I could take credit for this but alas I cannot. As far as other aero bits, I have a GV style front lip waiting to go on and a set of JSpec side skirts that I am waiting on. I also signed up for the group buy from R Theory for their flat bottom(and chassis braces) that just came out with. I haven't decided on the front splitter though.

    Still have a stack of parts that I need to get put on so hopefully the next few months should have regular updates!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  22. #313
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power ScratchNSniff's Avatar
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    Rear end looks SUPER Aggressive. Do like a lot!!!

  23. #314
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    +1 on what Alex said! Regarding exhaust hangers, I have successfully used zip ties tightened around the stock rubber ones as well as hose clamps in the past with success.

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