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Thread: The 'I told you, you'd be back' build of Misfire, my NB2 w/ F1 inspiration

  1. #331
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    11-03-22, Mileage-131,452: Installed another OEM Mazda ignition coil(part #BP6D-18-100A-9U) since the other aftermarket was replaced I thought it would be a good idea to replace the other.
    new one on the left and old one on the right


    Apparently, they both were problematic as I noticed a decrease in exhaust burble after replacing each one. :bang: Miss that but not at the expense of the motor not running correctly.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  3. #332
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    02-28-23: Back on Black Friday I splurged and bought a Racebred Components 61" aluminum wing and front splitter because they had 20% off. Which meant I needed wing uprights so I bought those from Kazespec Engineering. Got some motivation and installed the wing but I didn't take any pics, sorry but don't worry you won't have to wait. I wasn't sure how I'd feel about this setup but I absolutely love it!

    05-13-23: I have been buying/hoarding parts for the last two years and I really need to start installing them so I thought if I post some pics of the parts ,that might motivate me to get on installing them. First up some parts from Zoom Engineering including their NB fuel lid, starter button, carbon fiber mirrors and taillights.


    I have bought 4 different taillight setups in the last 2 years. First a set from Panos in Greece. The passenger side fit well but the driver side fit terribly so I returned them. Then I bought a set of GV style taillights but didn't think the single light worked for my vision. Then I bought a set of Carbon Miata taillights and the fitment was okay but still would need some massaging to work; so I sold those as well. The Zoom Engineering fit very well, unlike any of the others.

    This is actually my second set of Zoom Engineering taillights. The first pair was their normal ones but I decided to sell those and get this set made with the turn signal on the outside and running light on the inside. I also didn't care for the current lenses that come with them. They look cheap, IMHO, so I hunted down different options and found that many motorcycle lenses are the same size. I settled on a set that is intended for Harley Davidson, as seen below.
    (Zoom Engineering on left, Harley Davidson ones on the right)

    What about the part on the far right? Well I wanted to personalize them even further so I reached out to Harry with DCBE Tech in Greece to make some custom 3d printed lens risers. I provided the measurements and surprisingly after a single prototype they were nearly perfect. One of my initial measurements was slightly off(the outer diameter, IIRC).

    Here is a comparison of the stock Zoom Engineering NB taillights vs mine with the different light locations, DCBE Tech risers and aftermarket motorcycle lenses.

    In my opinion, these two changes makes a big difference.

    I was so excited I had to get these installed. I was going to wrap them but I decided to just spray paint them for now. I did that and installed them and decided I needed to move forward with my overall vision for the rear which meant wrapping the area between the lights with a satin black vinyl wrap. I have only used vinyl wrap a few times and each time it was on perfectly flat surfaces so this gave me a whole new respect for people that do this. Let's just say the job is a 10 footer at this point.

    05-14-23: Unfortunately I didn't get pics till after sundown so I apologize for that but they still give you a good idea of the results.








    Despite the less than stellar job I did on painting the taillights and the vinyl wrap, I am happy that I went ahead and did it. You may be wondering why I painted the taillights black and wrapped the area between them with black wrap....well Misfire's muse is to blame for that inspiration as well.


    So the rear end isn't done yet. I still need to do the bumper cuts that I plan on using a black wire mesh in and the rear outer bumper cuts will have a running light on bottom and the reverse light on top, similar to the F1.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  5. #333
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    03-29-21: Picked up a set of Katana LED 9005 bulbs(about $50 shipped on Amazon) to replace Misfire's halogen bulbs(I believe they are Sylvania Silverstar Ultra).
    How well have these held up?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  6. #334
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    The Katana LED headlight bulbs are still going strong. Highly recommend them, especially considering they cost about the same as high quality halogen bulbs yet have lasted longer and put out more light.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  7. #335
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    I have been working with Harry w/ DCBE Tech in Greece on several projects in the past 6+ months. The lens risers as shown above, custom center caps (two-piece design where the threaded male portion goes on the back side and the thread female cap portion goes on the front, these will get custom Revlimiter inserts of course)


    and a custom 3d printed key using the OEM NB2 key. As a bonus he made a case as well!(he did this w/o me asking him to, too cool)


    Both of these are inspired by the McLaren F1 and while they are small details, those are the ones I really have a lot of passion for. Neither of these are their final form since I still need to prep and paint them both but I was very excited with the results and wanted to share them. Harry has been really great to work with so if you need help with a custom part for a project, don't hesitate to reach out to DCBE Tech.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 05-15-2023 at 06:18 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  9. #336
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Cool to see all the updates and all the little bits and pieces coming together. Really appreciate the kind words as well, and I have to admit that I enjoy the whole process and the passion with which you approach your vision very much!

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  11. #337
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @HarryB: Thanks for the compliments and making these projects possible, Harry!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  13. #338
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    05-21-23: Continued working on the rear bumper, namely cutting the slots and mocking up the lights. I bought some United Pacific LED GLO side marker lights for additional running lights and some white LED lights off Amazon.


    The lights are right at about 1" tall which that is what I figured the slots would look proportionally correct given I was going to do four sets of two and the area starting from the curve of the bumper to the bottom was approx. 5".

    That would mean there would be 1" vertically between each slot and the edge of the bumper. The slots would be 10" since the width of the bumper is approximately 48" from the area below the tail lights where it starts to wrap around the car, giving a 2'' gap between each slot horizontally.

    After measuring and marking the bumper I used a 1" hole saw to cut each end of the slots.


    I then finished cutting the slots with an angle grinder and started working on the mounts for the lights that would go in the outer most bumper slots. I used 1" flat aluminum stock and angle aluminum. I drilled a hole on each side and used a rivenut insert so that I could use a m6 bolt to secure them.

    The mounting still hasn't been finalized but here are the completed bumper slots with the lights mocked up on the driver side.


    I bought some black mesh to use in the slots but it was too thick to form the round ends so I picked up some other mesh that should work. Once the light mounts are finalized, I will work on the mesh inserts.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  15. #339
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    06-10-23: I originally wanted to do custom taillights w/ led halo rings but all of the dual taillights housings used approx. 2.5" lights which made using halo rings more problematic and not worth the cost, in my opinion, given the small diameter may look weird.

    So I just used LED bulbs in the Zoom Engineering lights. Thinking ahead, I asked DCBE Tech if they could make a 3d printed insert to fit into the lens spacer they made so I could use it as a template for a light diffuser.

    I had some clear acrylic that I used to make light diffusers for the original Zoom Engineering lenses and thankfully had enough left over to use for new light diffusers for the new lenses.

    The acrylic light diffuser (just used 220grit sandpaper to give the acrylic a frosted finish) definitely helped to reduce the glare from the LED's. I had started working on a secondary light diffuser made from aluminum for the center section of the acrylic on the original Zoom Engineering lenses so I figured I would do that with these as well to give a sort of halo effect.

    I used a 2.5" hole saw to cut the aluminum and the covered it in satin black wrap. Joined the two pieces together with a bolt and nut.




    Here are some comparison pics of the passenger side running light w/o the diffuser:


    And with the light diffuser:


    Driver side w/o diffuser and passenger side w/ the light diffuser:




    As you can see the light distribution is much cleaner in addition to the halo effect which ironically enough looks similar to the LED lights in some of the new Mazda's. Taking a picture with the hazards on was tricky but I think that picture is a fair representation.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  17. #340
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-02-23: Like most of the parts that will go on Misfire, the Zoom Engineering fuel lid was going to get some custom touches. I knew I wanted to knock down the polish finish to a brushed finish, add carbon fiber and possibly a "Fuel" decal/badge.

    I started by going over the lid and bowl with a red scotch brite pad. I then cleaned it with alcohol and wrapped it in the carbon fiber wrap on the outer sections of the lid. I liked it but I still thought it would look better with a "fuel" decal/badge.

    I had already ordered a decal off Amazon. I installed it but it was too big. Removed it and installed the badge/insert from Revlimiter. I liked it but thought it was still a little too big and thought it would look better flush.

    So to the garage and I "went to town" on it with a 80 grit(or 120) flapper wheel on a angle grinder. I then used a Dremel to remove the material in the marked off area for the badge. That was the most difficult part as I was running low on suitable materials. After finding two thin spots in the casting, I decided I should stop while I was ahead.

    Cleaned it up once again and wrapped it on final time and then installed the fuel badge, here are the results.


    Other than the two thin spots, I am pretty happy with the results. I think I may still add an additional piece of aluminum to the bowl to emulate the M2 fuel lid:


    I may just add bolts to the current lip of the bowl but think it may look odd since its so thin.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  19. #341
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-04-23: Tackled two more projects, the custom DCBE Tech wheel caps and key cover/case. Both of these projects were 3d printed so I needed to sand them to get them ready to paint and wrap.

    I used 220, 400 and finally 1500 grit on the wheel caps and just 400 on the key case since I was just wrapping it. I used a primer/filler on the wheel caps and then a Dupli color spray paint(x3-x4 coats) called Desert Sand Mica(a Toyota color) which I thought would be more gold than it turned out to be. Finally did a few clear coats.

    I should have had the male portion screwed into the wheel caps while painting as that would have protected the threads from overspray so I had to clean up the threads after painting. Finally I installed the custom Revlimiter "F1 Misfire" inserts. I really love how they turned out!


    Going to let them cure for a day or so and then install them so more pics to come.

    I next worked on the custom DCBE Tech key cover and case which are 3d printed as well. Basically he made a 3d printed cover for the factory NB2 key which thankfully he has a NB2 as well so he had a key on hand for test fitting. The case was actually his idea(inspiration from the prototype LM key), I don't know why I didn't think of it.

    I spray painted the key cover with black paint and let it cure. I then used acrylic model paint to paint the F1 red and finally clear coated the covers. I then wrapped the key case with carbon fiber wrap.

    Finally, I had bought these little (3mm, iirc) counter sunk stainless steel screws so I had to grind off the threads. I used clear rtv to bond the key covers to the key and for the screws.


    I'm really happy with how these projects have turned out, not perfect by any means but there is always time to "perfect" in time.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  21. #342
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-07-23: Forced induction while adding horsepower it also adds heat which is counterintuitive to making power. So decreasing air intake temperature becomes even more important with forced induction.

    Misfire already has a air to air intercooler and a DDM Works air intake box and while there isn't much that can be done to the intercooler to increase efficiency beyond a water spray setup, an easy way to make the air box more efficient is by insulating it to keep heat saturation at a minimum.

    I had picked up some gold reflective tape some time ago with the intention of wrapping the DDM Works air box BUT I wanted to do before and after comparisons, well I never picked up the sensors/equipment to do this so I just went ahead and wrapped the air box.

    I also went ahead and used 1/8'' foam tape with a adhesive backing to put on all the mating surface to help further isolate the air filter from heat and debris. I really enjoy little projects like this because it's easy to over look things like this and it's a cheap/easy way to get the most out of the setup. It probably took about an hour to do.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  23. #343
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-08-23: I purchased a GORGEOUS limited-edition billet aluminum and carbon fiber strut bar from RGR Engineering a few months ago and finally installed it...well I tried too.

    The strut bar, like most, wasn't designed to be compatible with a supercharger setup but I was told that a local customer purchased one and installed it with his m45 hot side setup. I quickly found out that it wouldn't be a bolt in affair.

    First it needed approximately 10mm worth of spacers to clear the supercharger outlet. No big deal as I just so happen to have some 9mm solid spacers so I used those plus a washer on each side, easy peezy or so I thought.

    Of course, I knew that hood clearance would be the next obstacle and sure enough the hood wouldn't close without notching the underside hood bracing. That was more than I was willing to do, at the moment, to make it work. It sure looks good though, easily the best-looking Miata strut bar that I've ever seen.


    As usual my quick point and shoot "photography" doesn't do it justice but since it was removed for now, it's of little consequence. I took this opportunity to install a few other parts while I was at it.

    First up was the Zoom Engineering NB start button, the easiest install, which took maybe 10 minutes. It comes with a PnP harness to plug into the factory start harness and then you just plug a single wire to the starter button and ground it.


    I had already installed a clutch bypass so now you just put the key in, turn to on and press the button....it's incredibly satisfying for some odd reason. It doesn't allow you to start it with the key like normal which isn't a issue, imo. If it failed, it would only take a Phillips screwdriver and five minutes to unplug the harness and return to oem.

    Next up was another part that has been sitting for about 6 months, a Marrad LX2 low side bolster seat in cloth w/ suede inserts, red stitching and inflatable lumbar support (a must in my opinion). This is my 3rd Marrad seat for Misfire and 4th I've had for my Miata's. They are very comfortable and plenty of options.

    Another quick install, oddly enough it take me longer to install the slider bar then it does the seat itself, seriously that bar is a pain to install for some reason. It takes about five minutes to remove the OEM seat and about the same to install the LX2 since it is on sliders, getting access to the rear bolts is easy.


    This is the exact configuration I should have gotten the first time as it is essentially what the LX1 was that I had in Warbird. So much more comfortable than the factory seats (nb1 in this case), you are planted and feel much more connected to the car, absolutely love it. I will probably get the new reclinable Marrad seat for the passenger side but time will tell.

    Next I installed the Miata Roadster Frankenstein delete hardware which is essentially stainless steel countersunk bolts with countersunk washers of the appropriate depth for the front/rear which is different. I don't have a hardtop and don't plan on getting one so this makes those striker plates look a lot cleaner.

    Finally I installed the modified Zoom Engineering NB fuel lid, which surprisingly took the longest to install. It isn't difficult and comes with everything you need and instructions (in Japanese though but pictures suffice).


    It really is a shame the strut bar didn't work out as it was going to go really well with my carbon fiber and metal accents, like the fuel lid and the Zoom Engineering mirrors I still have to install.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 07-09-2023 at 07:49 AM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  25. #344
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    How much lower is the Marrad? Curious.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  26. #345
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    How much lower is the Marrad? Curious.
    My apologies, Bryan I don't know how I over looked that important aspect. With the cushions in place it is around 1.5" and about another 1" can be gained by removing the cushions, keep in mind that this is with sliders. The TX2 that I previously had, hard mounted but had adjustable positions and that seat was another 1" lower.

    Here are some pictures from Patrick that also has a LX2 in his NA:
    Quote Originally Posted by smurugby12 View Post
    Took some "broomstick" photos. It was a one man operation so I wasnt able to hold a ruler, but the pics should give you an idea of the drop the LX2's give you.

    Note: I am 5'11", medium build, 33 waist.

    Pic 1. Stock seats



    Pic 2. Stock seats with helmet (note the front of the broomstick fail lol)



    Pic 3. LX2 with cushion IN



    Pic 4. LX2 with cushion OUT



    Pic 5. LX2 with Cushion OUT with helmet



    Hope this help. The seat is nice enough that I bought a second for the passenger side.

    Patrick
    Mark aka Marrad just came out with a reclining seat(TX2R) based on the TX2(that I previously had) which is another 1" lower because there is no sliders like there is with the LX2. I will more than likely get the TX2R for the passenger side since sliders isn't really necessary and will allow taller individuals (6'2-6'4 +/-) to still fit.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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