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Thread: The 'I told you, you'd be back' build of Misfire, my NB2 w/ F1 inspiration

  1. #271
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    03-21-21, Mileage- 126,616: I am ashamed to say that it has been almost two years since I changed Misfire's oil(04/20/19 @119,205 miles) but only about 7400 miles. Okay, either way I know I should do it at least once a year which I am going to start doing...I promise.

    Picked up two more Purolator Boss PBL14610 filters a few months ago and decided to try Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w30 this time around. It is suppose to "stick to metal parts" to give better protection on start up.


    I had also picked up one of Fumoto's new F106SX valves(the bolt is a banjo type and the valve can swivel to set the direction) but after seeing it hung down approx. 0.25" below the oil pan and sub frame, I opted not to install it given I plan to lower Misfire another inch or so.

    The filter was a bit of a pan to get off. I was actually trying to see if one of my friends had a oil filter wrench that would fit but no one had one small enough. After much exertion, it finally came off.

    Everything else went as expected but I have a small oil leak some where at the front of the motor which I honestly didn't take the time to track down.

    I had also replaced the CV boot that I was using as a shift boot for a Audi MKI TT shift boot a few weeks ago but forgot to post a picture.




    I'm not sure if I will install the whole Audi TT shift console after all...in fact I think I am going to do a center console delete. I recently found a great option for the tombstone end cap for NB's from Jass Performance.

    https://www.jassperformance.com/shop...-Tombstone-Cap

    That is probably the route I will go with.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 03-21-2021 at 11:11 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    Bryan (03-22-2021),Cermivelli (03-22-2021),lifebyevan (03-22-2021)

  3. #272
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch lifebyevan's Avatar
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    Fresh oil change just in time for the spring festivities Hooray for Misfire!

    I think the tombstone end cap would fit the look for Misfire. It's nice they give you the switches for the window switches built-in.

  4. #273
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    The Tick needs an oil change. It spent a year with 15w40 (Rotella T4 instead of the T6) in the oil pan.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  5. #274
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    03-22-21: Finally got around to refinishing Misfire's headlights, again, as I didn't do any kind of permanent seal coat or finish when I refinished them two years ago.

    I was going to do the whole process over and then use a ceramic coat but after using the ceramic coat on the side markers and not being too sure about the results I decided to use actual clear coat.

    Since I don't have a compressor and paint gun, I went with a aerosol clear coat. Having already research options, it seemed the general consensus was that 2k clear coat was the best option which has the clear coat plus a hardener that you release by using a "button" that is included.

    I wet sanded with 800 grit and then 1200, iirc, cleaned thoroughly, wiped down with rubbing alcohol and after masking the hood, fenders and bumper off, I applied the 2k clear coat(SprayMax 3680061, which I don't recommend) in a few light coats(2) and then two medium coats. Letting the clear coat dry for about 10 minutes between coats and used a heat gun to try and speed it up.

    Right away there was obvious orange peel so I knew that I would have to wet sand, compound and polish which I did after letting the clear coat setup for about 12hrs.

    The results are pretty good but I may have needed to go to 600 grit because the passenger side still has obvious yellowing which isn't as apparent in pictures but still discernible when comparing to the driver side.

    Driver side(before)


    Drive side(after)


    Passenger side(before)


    Passenger side(after)



    I plan on picking up another set of NB2 headlights to refinish, paint the inner housing black, add a switchback halo on the low beam and possibly upgrade the high beam to a projector lens.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    Demon I Am (03-30-2021),HarryB (03-30-2021)

  7. #275
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    03-29-21: Picked up a set of Katana LED 9005 bulbs(about $50 shipped on Amazon) to replace Misfire's halogen bulbs(I believe they are Sylvania Silverstar Ultra).




    When unpacking the bulbs I recalled I never did check on the correct orientation of LED bulbs when they replace halogens, something I meant to do when I bought the Katana LED bulbs for the low beams.

    One quick internet search later and I found that the LED's should be facing 3 and 9 in the headlight when replacing a halogen bulb, in a fixture meant for halogen bulbs.

    I checked the low beams and sure enough they were both turned 90 degrees, facing 12 and 6. I decided to just fix(just loosen a allen head set screw on the mounting collar, move and tighten set screw) the driver side to see the difference which was pretty obvious.

    Driver side with low beam LED bulb correctly oriented at 3 and 9 and passenger side incorrectly oriented at 12 and 6:




    Both low beam LED bulbs oriented correctly at 3 and 9:


    As you can see with the passenger side incorrectly oriented at 12 and 6, there is more overlap of the beams causing a large hot spot in the center and it throwing further instead of wider.

    Katana LED bulbs for low beam and Sylvania Silverstar Ultra(i believe) halogen bulbs for high beam:


    Katana LED bulbs for low and high beam:


    I'm very pleased with the results, considering these are $50 LED bulbs, so essentially "cheap" LED bulbs and the ones I bought a year ago have held up thus far with no issues. $50 is what you would pay for "premium" halogen bulbs so I would take these over the "premium" halogen bulbs any day of the week.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    Bryan (03-30-2021),Demon I Am (03-30-2021),HarryB (03-30-2021),MiataQuest (03-30-2021)

  9. #276
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    A lot going on here, need to get reading. Your builds are always interesting, and it pleases me to see you still wrenching


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Greasemonkey2000 (Yesterday)

  11. #277
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MaRcOp01o's Avatar
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    I think you officially have the brightest roadster on the forum.

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  13. #278
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustRat View Post
    A lot going on here, need to get reading. Your builds are always interesting, and it pleases me to see you still wrenching
    Thanks, Peter, appreciate that.


    Quote Originally Posted by MaRcOp01o View Post
    I think you officially have the brightest roadster on the forum.
    Thanks, Marco! I think it stems from the need to finally be the "brightest one in the room". I have a few more items that will help me "hold that title".
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  14. #279
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    04-06-21, Mileage-126,780: Picked up a Standard AV23 check valve and 5/8" heater hose....


    ....and installed on Misfire since there is supposed to be a check valve between the supercharger intake pipe and the line that goes to the IACV(idle air control valve).


    I was HOPING this might help decrease the off throttle/boost idle droop..unfortunately it did no such thing. It is supposedly suppose to "add"(gain back) 1/2psi of boost, according to Track Dog Racing. I really just need to pick up another throttle body and do dual throttle bodies once and for all to take care of the idle droop issue.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  15. #280
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    04-12-21: I really like the Flyin Miata LED smoked side markers BUT I honestly prefer the look of the colored lenses. I had considered picking up another set of Flyin Miata LED side markers with clear lenses and then either using colored translucent paint or film but that's more money I don't want to spend.

    Solution? Hybrid side marker lights using the OEM lenses and Flyin Miata LED housings! I had looked the FM side marker lights over when I first bought them and could see that physically they were pretty much identical to the OEM side marker lights so I knew that this SHOULD work.

    I first used a 3" angle grinder but after cutting the first pair, I started using a dremel so I could adjust the speed and have more control....either way it more or less melted the plastic.




    After cleaning up the edges with sand paper and using rubbing alcohol to clean the mating surfaces, I used clear silicone to seal the lens to the housing and used a zip tie on each side to keep the two together tightly while they dry.

    Make sure you have the lens and housing oriented correctly before assembling! I labeled each housing BUT some how mounted the lens upside down on the first two which is bad because the lens sticks out further on top and tapers in as it goes to the bottom and the housing has locating pins...so had to take those two apart and redo.

    Let them dry for about two hours and then installed.








    I am very pleased with the results, as they are brighter and the color is deeper and I think the amber/red lens just fits the look I'm going for. My only issue is you can see the individual LED's now because the FM lens had a built in diffuser, where as the OEM doesn't. So I will more than likely pull them back apart and install a light diffuser.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  17. #281
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Glad you did swap the lenses; very much prefer the OEM ones as well! LED light diffusers can be made with a sanded piece of acrylic ;)

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