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Thread: The 'I told you, you'd be back' build of Misfire, my NB2 w/ F1 inspiration

  1. #181
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Very creative. I’ve never seen another one like it.

  2. #182
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin 92 View Post
    And I feel your pain on the throw-out bearing issue. Mine issue is the rear main is leaking... again. It's frustrating burning an afternoon to remove everything to replace a $5 part.
    Mine started making bad noise just before I put it up for the winter this year. I replaced the clutch about 6 years ago.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  3. #183
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
    Very creative. I’ve never seen another one like it.
    Thanks Kyle! At least I think so....unless that is a polite way of saying it's a big pile of poo... j/k

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Mine started making bad noise just before I put it up for the winter this year. I replaced the clutch about 6 years ago.
    That stinks. Pulling the transmission wasn't as bad as I thought but I need to do a upgraded clutch and I'm confident the motor mounts are shot so I need to save up for all of it.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  4. #184
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    12-21-19: While the weather in central Texas was a little chilly today, only mid 50's for the high, it was still nice enough to tackle another project I have been wanting to do...a rear bumper cut. It is "free", relatively easy to do and not very time consuming to do.

    The hardest part is figuring out how aggressive you want it and how to taper it off at the ends. In the end I decided "more is more" and to take it as high as possible with out having to remove the rear "crash bar".

    I just couldn't get the ends the way I wanted so for now I went with a rather "straight taper", plus I plan on doing a diffuser, possibly custom, and that may work best with it.

    Not much to share here in terms of tips, etc. but there are LOTS of videos out there on doing bumper cuts on Miata's specifically. I used a smaller 3", iirc, angle grinder with a cut off wheel that worked really well in terms of cutting and leaving a nice edge. The key here is keeping it moving as it just starts to melt the plastic and throws melted plastic all over you to scar you for life.

    On to the pictures! A few before and after pics first and then a few end result pics.









    You might notice "a little person" reflection(in the before pic), yes Onyx, my 5yr old grand daughter, was there helping me once again but she gets scarce when using power tools as she doesn't like how loud they are so she would come and go thru out the process.








    All said and done I am happy with the results. It is only the second time doing one and definitely seen plenty of others done better but again I think the taper will look/work better with a diffuser.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  6. #185
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    You are definitely creative and good with tools Chad! I really like the updates, they match the theme perfectly.

    It may be a good idea to get Onyx some hearing protection. I hate power tools as well, so I use the headphone-style ones often

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  8. #186
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Thanks Kyle! At least I think so....unless that is a polite way of saying it's a big pile of poo... j/k.
    It was a sincere compliment. Keep up the good work.

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  10. #187
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    You are definitely creative and good with tools Chad! I really like the updates, they match the theme perfectly.

    It may be a good idea to get Onyx some hearing protection. I hate power tools as well, so I use the headphone-style ones often
    Thanks Harry, I try my best! Funny you should say that because that is exactly what I told Onyx and she just said, "No I just will come back when you are done making loud noises."


    Quote Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
    It was a sincere compliment. Keep up the good work.
    Thanks, Kyle. Was just giving you a hard time.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  12. #188
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    12-22-19: Really want to start shooting more with the DSLR camera so I took Misfire for a last minute photo shoot just before sundown.














    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  14. #189
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    02-02-20: Well after having my Project G vented windows since April of 2019, I finally got around to installing them along with the R Speed delrin window bushings I bought December of 2019.


    They don't come like this as the acrylic is covered on both sides and the snap in vents(3.25") are separate. Installing the vents in the acrylic window can be intimidating the first time(my second time) but just take your time and after putting in the first corner simply start squeezing the other corner of the vent and finally push it in once you get it inside the window opening.

    There are several write ups out there covering removing the door panel and triangle window so no step by step with pics(sorry started later than I wanted) but will give a quick run down of the process.(at least on NB2 but NA and NB are very similar short of the door panel)

    1)Remove the three plastic push pins. One is on the upper right hand side of the door car and the other two are on the outer lower edge of the door card.

    2)Remove the screws on the door handle(one on the top and one on bottom).

    3)Now just start carefully pulling the door card from the bottom working your way up, popping the card off the plastic pins and the just lift it up off the top edge of the door. Be sure to disconnect the tweeter if it has one.

    4)To remove the glass, pull back the moisture barrier and secure it with some tape so it is out of your way. Position the window so that you can get to the three bolts(10mm head) for the regulator and two stops(10mm), you should be able to do this in just two different window positions.

    5)Now the window is free and carefully pull it out of the door. This is a good time to replace the window bushings because chances are the have disintegrated if they have never been replaced, if you haven't personally replaced them it is worth spending $20+ on a set of delrin window bushings. Also remove as much of the old grease out of the window tract and replace with some quality grease like Honda Shin Etsu.

    This is how Misfire's window bushings looked upon removal....


    ...and replaced with the delrin window bushings from R Speed.


    Both sides had completely fallen apart, I honestly cannot believe the windows were working "correctly", which they never acted weird beyond being a little on the slow side.

    6)Now you need to remove a screw at the top upper most corner of the triangle window, it may be hard to see as there may be a bunch of dirt covering it.

    7)Now remove the window seal starting at the bottom of the triangle window "b" pillar and take it off till you get just past the top upper most corner of the triangle window. This will expose a second screw, remove it.

    8)Now remove the two 10mm bolts holding the triangle window "b" pillar, one is hiding behind the moisture barrier at the top and the other is exposed at the bottom. Just keep in mind when locating the bottom bolt that this piece angles down and doesn't go straight down.

    9)Now you can remove the triangle window "b" pillar, notice the orientation and how the L portion that the bolts go thru goes UNDER the triangle window main frame.

    10)Now pull the outer edge of the triangle window gasket and remove the triangle window. DO NOT completely remove the gasket as this will make reinstalling MUCH MORE difficult.

    11)Install in reverse order. Just ensure the gasket is fully seated against the window frame and the triangle window.

    For some reason the driver side was a pain and took almost 3hrs, while the passenger side took about a hour. If doing this for the first time figure a minimum of 3 hours total for both.

    Here are some before and after pics:





    Carbon Miata vent window


    Project G vented window



    OEM


    Project G vented window
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  16. #190
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Continued from Kung Fu Jesus build thread:
    https://mazdaroadster.net/showthread...a-thing/page37


    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Sure wish I was local, I'd love to pick up that Hard Dog double hoop(deuce?) roll bar. Absolutely love the look of them although I know they aren't as much of a "proper" roll bar, they certainly would still protect in the event of a roll over.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Admittedly, I think your car looks better with the Sport.
    Thanks Bryan! The more I looked at pictures of the Deuce or Double Hoop the more I realized I like the look but probably not on Misfire. I also like that the aforementioned style roll bar doesn't inhibit putting the top up/down. I have so many more needs/priorities/wants before worrying about a different rollbar.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  17. #191
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    That Deuce is $400.

  18. #192
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    02-12-20: I was made aware of DanDak LED lights, https://dandak.net/ , by another forum member and really liked his products and the one that I wanted to get sooner than later was the LED 3rd brake light which I got a custom version but more on that in another post.

    Dan also offers a really nice interior light kit, https://dandak.net/product/mx-5-nb-interior-light-kit/ ,which consist of a center LED light custom made by him with x9 LED's and side LED lights(with x6 LED's) that replace the sun visors.

    I personally use my sun visors so the full kit wasn't for me but that center LED light was a welcome addition. I opted for the 5700K option(Dan offers 7 options, ranging from 2700K to 6500K) as it would be the whitest with a slight blue hue like daylight on a clear day.

    I placed the order on Jan. 23, 2019 and Dan had it shipped out on the 27th and I received it Feb. 4th which was pretty awesome considering it was coming from Lithuania! Here it is:




    As you can tell from the pics it is a well built and has connectors to plug in the two side lights so that is a plug and play affair. Here it is installed so you can get a idea of fitment which is snug but no issues:


    I also decided to go ahead and order a clear dome lens which is a Mitsubishi OEM part(#MR951527) that fits the NA/NB dome light.


    Mitsubishi clear lens vs OEM tinted lens


    Here is the OEM tinted lens with a incandescent bulb(which are normally around 3k):


    Now the clear lens with the same incandescent bulb:


    Finally the clear lens with DanDak LED dome light(5700K):


    As you can see it is a SUBSTANTIAL difference in terms of brightness and light color. For some direct comparison here is a picture with the DanDak LED light and foot well lights with incandescent bulbs(larger version than the dome light):


    The DanDak LED dome light pretty much "drowns out" the foot well lights so I just disconnected them until I get some LED bulbs to replace them. I took a picture of the DanDak LED dome light with the OEM tinted lens but in the pic you couldn't actually tell a difference and in person it is slightly dimmer but mostly it changes the look of the light output.

    I am really happy with the DanDak LED dome light as it puts out SO MUCH light and for about $16, I don't think you could do better in terms of light output and I always like supporting small businesses. Will have a few more updates in the next week or so!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  20. #193
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    After seeing this, I just placed my order with them. I decided to get the clear lens as well as they offered it for the NB.

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  22. #194
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    02-23-20, Mileage-122,397: A week or so ago I noticed that Misfire's passenger side low beam light was not working.

    I checked it out and sure enough the Osram Night Breaker bulb had burnt out which I was kind of bummed out since I installed them November 2018 and only had approx. 5,000 miles. After figuring I did a average of 40MPH in that time frame, that would put them at approx. 125hrs on the bulbs which is around what they are rated at.

    I started hunting for replacements. After reading, watching lots of videos on LED's vs HID's I came to the conclusion that a quality HID was the best route and the Mirimoto HID kit seems to be one of the better ones but at about $150(which isn't bad, imo) I decided that upgrade would have to wait.

    I started looking at quality halogens but after seeing that some "budget" LED bulbs were less than $10 more than quality halogens I started rethinking the halogens. I came across a really neat site, www.bulbfacts.com , that a individual test all sorts of headlight bulbs(LED, HID and halogen) and has LOTS of information, data, video and pics to help you make a informed decision.

    It was the previously mentioned site that I determined to try these Katana LED bulbs:




    Test results for these can be found here from bulbfacts.com:
    https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/c...rs.html#katana

    Here are Misfire's halogen bulb setup(Osram Night Breaker on left and "stock" on right), from inside in the drivers seat:


    Osram Night Breaker(left) vs Katana LED(right), from inside in the drivers seat:


    Both low beams with Katana LED bulbs, from inside in the drivers seat:


    Both low beams with Katana LED bulbs, from outside at the center of the soft top:




    Prior to replacing the halogens I placed blue tape at the approx. center/focal point of the light and the LED bulbs had the exact same point:


    I also wanted to see the overall pattern and distance of the Katana LED bulbs vs the halogen bulbs so here are pics showing that, first the halogen bulbs....


    ...and the Katana LED bulbs.


    Interestingly it looks like the halogens have a little bit better distance...I'm not sure that is the reality or just the bulb temperature coming into play since the halogens are a "warmer light"(the stock is around 3k, the Osram is around 4k and these are 5.95k, call 6k).

    One great aspect of these LED bulbs is the base can be rotated 45 degrees to adjust the orientation of the bulb relative to the fixture which is important for it to be oriented in the same position as the factory bulb. In this case the look to be oriented correctly which judging by the results seems to verify this.

    I still may play with the orientation to see if any improvement can be had. Overall for about $55 I am pretty happy with the results. I still think a quality HID kit will be the long term plan as most LED headlights(including OEM setups) I have seen always have a more obvious beam focus so the light isn't as evenly distributed as HIDs.

    I figure even if I only get two years out of these I am money ahead since they are brighter but time will tell. I will follow up if any improvement is achieved with changing the bulb orientation.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 02-26-2020 at 07:25 AM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  24. #195
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Need those on my morettes.....
    Life is short drive a Miata

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