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Thread: The 'I told you, you'd be back' build of Misfire, my NB2 w/ F1 inspiration

  1. #316
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScratchNSniff View Post
    Rear end looks SUPER Aggressive. Do like a lot!!!
    Thanks, Alex!

    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    +1 on what Alex said! Regarding exhaust hangers, I have successfully used zip ties tightened around the stock rubber ones as well as hose clamps in the past with success.
    Thank you, Harry!

    Quote Originally Posted by dnaha View Post
    The entire car looks amazing but that rear end especially is so very nice. Love it
    Appreciate it, Daron!


    My Carbon Miata taillight housings just shipped last week so hopefully I will have them in the next 4-6 weeks to my custom taillight setup. Once I do that I have a few other things that will be done to the rear to tie everything together and fulfill my vision for the rear, really excited and hope there is as much positive feedback once it's done!

    I went to Dallas yesterday to get Misfire's softtop replaced but apparently texting after working a 10 hour shift can result in incorrect words being used. I got up there and got Misfire parked so Mike could get started swapping the whole frame/top assembly and noticed the new top was canvas and not vinyl like I wanted. I brought it to his attention and he said ya that's what you asked for and he showed me the text. I felt pretty stupid at that point. Besides the canvas with glass/defrost being $150 more than the vinyl version, I don't like how they look and are a pain to maintain.

    Mike was understanding despite already having 3-4hrs in the job by putting the new top on another frame so they could be swapped and I could be back on the road in 2-3hrs. It actually worked out as I decided to go with a vinyl w/ zip out plastic window which is $130 cheaper than the vinyl with glass/defrost. That is what was on Warbird and really liked it and Mike said he likes that option the best too. This also gave me the opportunity to order new soft top seals which despite the poor condition of Misfire's current softtop, the only place water typically got in was at the window/seal point. So will be going back in the next 2-3 weeks to get that taken care of.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  3. #317
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    11-07-21, Mileage-128,975:Went back to Dallas and Mike installed a new Robbins black vinyl soft top w/ plastic zippered window on a NA frame with new IL Motorsports soft top seal(ouch those were pricey!).



    (This pic was taken 4+ months after installed)

    Mike did a fantastic job and had me back on the road in less than 2 hours from the time I arrived! If you are in Texas(central or DFW area) and need a soft top replaced then Mike is your guy.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  5. #318
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    03-22-22:After my two trips to Dallas(1.5+ hrs each way) I realized the NB1 seat(s) was terribly uncomfortable. I REALLY like the Marrad LX1 seat I had in Warbird and honestly wish I had kept it since I knew I'd get another Miata sooner than later.

    So after looking at lots of options I decided to get another Marrad seat. Mark was developing a new steel tube frame seat but it didn't have a slider(though could easily be moved in minutes) and that was the deal breaker for me.

    I went with the LX2 which is offered in the standard version(high side bolster) and a low side bolster option. I opted for the standard version(black simulated leather with "suede" inserts) thinking that the bolsters were the same as the LX1. I also had red contrast stitching and an adjustable(inflatable) lumbar added.

    Received it in about 6 weeks from the time I ordered but took me a bit before I installed it. Here it is compared to the stock(and worn) NB1 driver seat:






    It came already installed on the slider/mount and only had to add the slider bar(which fought me for some reason) and hook the hand bladder to air up the lumbar support. So less than 20 minutes to remove the OEM seat and install the Marrad, should have taken less but the slider bar fought me and had to fiddle with bolt alignment.





    So I've had about a week with it and it is definitely more comfortable than the NB1 seat it replaced and the inflatable lumbar support is fantastic BUT I realized the side bolsters seem to be higher than those on the LX1 so I would say the low side bolster is the route I should have gone. That definitely makes it harder to get in and out vs the LX1 but once the door bars are in, that won't really matter.

    It also only has one removable cushion(the front below your thighs) vs the three the LX1 had, the other two was under your butt. Which probably why the LX1 was more comfortable. I still really like the LX2 but the LX1 was better, in my humble opinion.

    For anyone looking at a fixed back seat, be aware that you feel everything that much more which means you feel what the car is doing but that also means you feel bumps, etc. more so If you have a bad or stiff suspension then you will feel it that much more. All the more reason to have a quality suspension setup.

    I think I may overhaul both the NB1 seats in time...new covers, foam, etc. but just to do it and so the passenger can have a decent seat with the downsides of a fixed back seat.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  6. #319
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    03-29-22: Installed a few more parts from the "pile" I have been collecting, one of which I am very excited about...a CAE Shifting Technology sts!


    This shifter is a absolute work of art!




    Obviously such a shifter can't be hidden inside a console so a console delete from Jass Performance and NB2 console delete window switches were purchased.




    Originally I was going to make the center console carpet since I knew it wouldn't fit the shifter perfectly but given the cost of shipping from Europe just for the window switches, I opted to just buy the center console delete fro Jass as well which matches the OEM black carpet really well, fits good and has velcro on the back edges. I kinked up in the back near the bulk head but I didn't get it sitting correctly(front to back since it has to actually go under the shifter) so that might be on me.

    The CAE shifter includes a new shifter turret so you have to remove it from the main assembly and mount it first...


    ...and then the shifter plate and boot.

    This is the one part that need attention from CAE as the boot is pretty flimsy(thin) and the glue was already coming undone so will have to address that sooner than later. Once installed though, that quickly faded away in me mind.







    vs GRacing and OEM console


    So how does it feel and compare to the GRacing? Well it shifts really smooth with less mechanical feel(resistance) than the GRacing which I really like that aspect of the GRacing. It feels more like the MiataRoadster tall angled shifter.

    The GRacing's glaring issue was the increase in NVH, especially near redline at full throttle but it transmitted transmission noise regardless of rpm which I actually came to enjoy.

    I figured the CAE shifter would be about the same but I was wrong, it was worse. Now this would probably be a deal breaker for most but most probably wouldn't have liked the GRacing like I do either. To get I idea of what it sounds like, just listen to a video of a McLaren F1 GTR(any time its off throttle you hear the transmission whine, couldn't find a good one of a regular F1 at the moment):
    https://youtu.be/YZFUCjWtDIQ

    I honestly really like this aspect, especially for the fact I am borrowing ideas/styling cues from the McLaren F1. I will try to get a video sooner than later but I have never had success with the audio quality.

    For the money the GRacing is probably the best sts for the Miata but if noise or increased resistance is a concern then I say the MiataRoadster is the best option BUT if you want the most gorgeous sts made for the Miata, it's without a doubt the CAE shifter.

    Lots more parts to install and with spring here, I plan on getting to the hoard of parts that is waiting to be installed.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  8. #320
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! ozbrock's Avatar
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    What in your opinion would be close to the largest waist size to be comfortable in a Marrad seat?

  9. #321
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbrock View Post
    What in your opinion would be close to the largest waist size to be comfortable in a Marrad seat?
    It's hard to say but I'm fat and fit(barely). I'm 5'10, 300lbs(always weighed more than what i look, if that makes sense) , 40/42 waist, broad shoulders and chest(52") and large thighs so like a line backer.

    I would recommend the low bolster to most everyone unless it's a dedicated track, that version was closer to the LX1 I previously had and getting out/in was much easier than the current LX2 I have. That won't much matter when I put in the door bars as far as getting in/out but still bothersome because of my big legs. Still like it much more than the NB1 seat it replaced.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  10. #322
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! ozbrock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    It's hard to say but I'm fat and fit(barely). I'm 5'10, 300lbs(always weighed more than what i look, if that makes sense) , 40/42 waist, broad shoulders and chest(52") and large thighs so like a line backer.

    I would recommend the low bolster to most everyone unless it's a dedicated track, that version was closer to the LX1 I previously had and getting out/in was much easier than the current LX2 I have. That won't much matter when I put in the door bars as far as getting in/out but still bothersome because of my big legs. Still like it much more than the NB1 seat it replaced.
    I'm 5'8", 270lbs with a 40" waist. Built like you but 2" shorter LOL. My car is a weekend warrior and track/autocross car, so I'm looking to upgrade to betters seats and harnesses soon, just having trouble finding something that will fit a 40" waist and fit in a Miata at the same time. At the moment I'm leaning towards a 17" Ultrashield aluminum seat from TDR.

  11. #323
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    08-01-22: Received the Marrad TX2 seat(tubular seat that hard mounts but can be adjusted on rails) and installed it. It didn't come with a seat belt receiver so I had to install the one from the factory seat. The bolt hole is there so you just have to make a hole in the top cover and bottom cover.




    For some reason I "thought" it would be better to have part of the receiver "hidden" even though you don't see it once the seat is installed, so I made a slit instead of just a hole for the bolt hno: don't be like me, just make a hole for the bolt.

    Install is really easy since its just the rails(four bolts) and then you put the seat in with the cushion off and set where you want and install four more bolts. Unfortunately due to the seat belt guide on the Hard Dog M1 Sport that Misfire currently has, it interfered with the seat.


    I went ahead and put 1/8'' thick foam with adhesive backing around the seat belt guide then wrapped it with electrical tape so it wouldn't damage the seat like it did on the LX2 before realizing it. So how much room was lost?




    So approximately 3" of travel lost, which equated to the last two holes in the rails because they are approx. 1.5" apart, iirc. One advantage with the TX2 over the LX2 is it sits closer to the transmission tunnel so its more centered to the steering wheel, how much more I am not sure as I didn't take measurements.


    This pic the 3" of lost travel is obvious when you compare the driver seat to passenger.




    Another advantage the TX2 has over the LX2 is it sits lower which can be seen in comparing these two pics, again no measurements taken but easily an additional inch or more if you look where the seat meets the ebrake. You can also see the difference in where the seat is in relation to the steering wheel from the 3" of lost travel.




    The seat itself is every bit as comfortable as the LX2 from my limited experience with the TX2. Unfortunately due to how the sits(angled) and the 3" of lost travel, my knees were to cramped for driving comfort so it came out the very next day. It was nice being even lower than the LX2 was.

    At this point I wish I had kept the LX2 but it was already sold. I decided to go ahead and get the Hard Dog Deuce that I had planned on getting eventually. Then I could try the TX2 out since the Deuce doesn't have the seat belt guide that caused the interference.

    Ultimately I have a feeling I will end up getting a low side bolster LX2, which is the configuration that is closest to the LX1 I had in Warbird. This has been frustrating because the seats are not cheap but Mark has worked with me on the price even though there was noting wrong with either seat, which I REALLY appreciate.

    I must say that since removing the TX2 and going back to the worn out NB1 seat, I realize how crappy the stock seats are...really a big difference in comfort and driving feel.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  13. #324
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    08-24-22: Early this year(Jan. or Feb. iirc) I picked up another set of wheels as the Rota Grid's just hasn't obtained the look I thought it would.

    It's weird because I saw the exact same size on the exact same color NB in a pic before buying and really liked them. I still really like them on other cars and maybe if the weren't concave, I'd like them more. :dunno:

    I really wanted to get another set of 14's but that pretty makes any off the shelf big brake kit a no go, except for Flyin Miata's LBBK which after lots of research decided it wasn't what I wanted. I even looked at 13's at I really like the look of a fat sidewall but again, that rules out bigger brakes.

    After considering who knows how many different options I decided I couldn't escape the love of the RPF1's but the 15x8 +28 wheels are over $270/each(ATM) and since I still planned on getting another set(wider[like 15x10] for spring to fall), I just couldn't justify the cost.

    There are plenty of twin 6 spoke wheels out there that look like RPF1's so no shortage of options but I finally decided on these...






    ...Vors TR6 15x8 +20. I decided on these mostly due to the double(technically triple) lip and there depth which I like more than RPF1's, in that respect. The only downside, imo, is that they weigh over 3lbs more at 14.8lbs(15x8 RPF1 is 11.3lbs, iirc). Another reason I think I went for these is borrowing cue's from the McLaren F1 which also has a twin(5) spoke wheel.


    I also decided to try and source some hexagon shaped center caps, again borrowing design cues from the F1 but this proved to be problematic but thankfully a skilled fellow miata enthusiast in Greece is working on a custom designed center cap...more on that later.

    Next was deciding on the tires which is in part why they sat so long because originally these were going to be my "fun setup" with 200tw 225's. Since that plan changed I wanted a more sensible tire but still not a all season.

    Again after considering lots of options I finally decided on Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 in 205/55/15. These being one of the few options in that size so they are about 3/4'' taller than 205/50/15s, for that bigger side wall look.

    I decided to just get them through Discount Tire since their price wasn't much different then the other places I found them and since I prefer using them whenever I can. Picked up some 949 Racing silver aluminum valve stems, installed them on the wheels and had Discount mount the tires.



    So why aren't they on yet, well since they are taller I am rather confident they would rub and since I hadn't gotten around to rolling the fenders, I needed to do that first.

    Which brings us to the next project I am currently on...rolling the fender, installing fender braces, fender vents and new side marker lights. I have actually been working on it for the past week or so but lack of motivation and things not working out as I had intended has "kept" me from finishing. The last part that is "needed" will be here tomorrow.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 09-14-2022 at 10:46 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  15. #325
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    10-04-22, Mileage-131,282: About four weeks ago I started on my fender project which included: rolling the fenders, installed fender vents, install fender braces, remove fender well liners, coat inside of fenders with rubberized undercoating.

    I started on the passenger side since its the biggest hassle due to more electrical items on that side. I started by removing the fenders, cleaning under them really well and then coating the frame with Duplicolor rubberized under coating(5-6 coats).


    Next I installed the Paco Motorsports Strong arms which are very beefy and has more reinforcement than any other option that I have seen.


    Next I figured out placement of the Spiked Performance fender vents(go above wheel well) and the Left Lane Motorsports NA version fender vents which went behind the wheel. I decided I wanted to do aero fenders, similar to these:


    Well about 5+ hours into that endeavor I was conversing with Cameron with The Miata Fix and he told me that he had some custom carbon fiber fender caps, 2 sets in fact, one to use on his NB and a set to sell.


    At first my pride got the best of me and I figured I was too far down the rabbit hole but after spending another few hours on my aero fender idea, I contacted Cameron and bought the custom carbon fiber fender caps.

    They were made by a fellow Miata enthusiast that originally made them for his NB and Cameron asked if he'd be willing to make more, he agreed and made three more sets. One set for Cameron and two for two of his friends but fortunately for me one of the sold his NB before installing them.

    This is the first carbon fiber body part I have had in my hand and installed and I must say that they had excellent fitment and pretty good finish(some small flaws here and there). The use of the cf fender caps meant the Left Lane Motorsports fender vents was out.

    The cf fender caps originally had three holes, two on top in each corner and one on the bottom for the rear most bolt on the bottom of the sill. I decided to go ahead and add the second on the bottom which may have made it harder to get the panel fitment/gap right.

    I cut the fenders using the provided stencil in addition to cutting out the area above the wheel for the Spiked Motorsports fender vents, which I purposely placed higher in case I decided to add flares later.

    I then cleaned up the inside of the fenders, rubber down with alcohol and sprayed them with 5-6 coats of the rubberized under coating. Next I cut the rubber trim to fit the vent holes and rivet placement and then installed the rubber trim and fender vents.


    To install the fender caps I used the top two holes that were present but added a rive nut for the front most hole, the rear one already had one. I then mocked up the cf cap by installing the fender and the cf cap by using the bottom two bolts to hold in place. Marked the fender where it seemed the holes in the cf cap lined up, drilled holes in the fender and test fitted.

    Unfortunately the passenger side was off a bit but I made it work. Originally I drilled and tapped the Paco Motorsports Strong arm on the passenger side so the bolts with go into it but that caused too much panel misalignment...probably due to the hole in the strong arm being misaligned.

    I then decided to use the factory mounting bracket that has a stud on it in the middle of the fender. I used aluminum angle, measured, cut and drilled holes to align the factory bracket and the holes in the fender and cap. The results of said effort.


    The rive nut that was already installed on the cf cap was for M6x1.0 bolts. Ironically enough I had bought some stainless steel bolts in the size that were 90mm long for a previous taillight project that didn't happen. These were just a little too long for the rear most upper hole but after fully seating the bolt I simply measure to see how much I needed to remove off the end.

    For the front of the fender cap I ended up using some scrap aluminum from the Warhorse rear diffuser I had on Warbird. I cut it about one inch wide and 6" long, bent, checked fitment and cut once more to the correct length. Then I marked the placement for the holes to align with the fender and cf fender cap. Drilled said holes and installed rive nuts.


    You can see holes in the front of the fender brace that I was originally going to use to secure aluminum angle but unfortunately that would put the necessary hole for the aluminum angle too close to the fender brace.

    I also purchased new 3/4'' led side markers to use so after figuring out where I wanted them, drilled the holes for them. Here are the results after 20+hrs of work.




    Panel gap to the doors isn't perfect but this is due to how I installed them, not the cf piece itself. Overall I am VERY happy with the results. I also decided to go ahead and install the Vors VR6 15x8 +20 wheels with 205/55/15 Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 tires, of course that called for some proper pics. Oh and I decided to replace the hood struts which worked fine but the plastic heads were faded so just ordered new ones from Flyin Miata.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  17. #326
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    10-05-22: Some proper pics!
















    Initial driving impressions with the Paco Motorsports strong arms is that there is a big difference in turn in response. I was trying to take bumps etc. as easy as possible since I didn't roll the rear fenders which will be necessary at this ride height with the taller tires so can't say for sure if there was a decrease in bump harshness or NVH, need more drive time.

    I absolutely love how the fenders look and love this tire and wheel setup in regards to aesthetics although I'm confident the tires won't be as good of a tire as the Continental Extreme Contact Sport.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  19. #327
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Wow, that's quite a difference!

    Still jealous of that exhaust. How's the sound been? I'm still iffy on that dual exit (old school would be a single exit, or at least two much more narrow ones).
    Last edited by Bryan; 10-05-2022 at 03:29 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  21. #328
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Wow, that's quite a difference!

    Still jealous of that exhaust. How's the sound been? I'm still iffy on that dual exit (old school would be a single exit, or at least two much more narrow ones).
    Thanks Bryan!

    I love how the Flowmaster Super 44 sounds! It's very deep most of the time but gets raspier at upper rpms or after the muffler has cooled off. Your welcome to it once I get my new exhaust done, just cover shipping. The exhaust tips finish hasn't held up well so I'd replace them or you could have it redone to exit at the stock location.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  22. #329
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Thanks Bryan!

    I love how the Flowmaster Super 44 sounds! It's very deep most of the time but gets raspier at upper rpms or after the muffler has cooled off. Your welcome to it once I get my new exhaust done, just cover shipping. The exhaust tips finish hasn't held up well so I'd replace them or you could have it redone to exit at the stock location.
    Oh wow...Just let me know what's going on with it!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  23. #330
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
    Drives
    2001 NB2 aka Misfire
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    Temple, Tx is where Chad resides.
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    Nov 2013
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    11-03-22, Mileage-131,452: Installed another OEM Mazda ignition coil(part #BP6D-18-100A-9U) since the other aftermarket was replaced I thought it would be a good idea to replace the other.
    new one on the left and old one on the right


    Apparently, they both were problematic as I noticed a decrease in exhaust burble after replacing each one. :bang: Miss that but not at the expense of the motor not running correctly.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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