mrpham's build

[mrpham]

Thanks man! Hopefully they'll keep them straight *fingers crossed*.

[Demon I Am]

Lovely pics!

[Stealth97]

Hows that remote mounted stereo working out for you?

[mrpham]

Hows that remote mounted stereo working out for you?

Working very well for me, if I'm playing music through USB than lack of display sucks. But when streaming through Bluetooth on my phone it's perfect.

[Stealth97]

Working very well for me, if I'm playing music through USB than lack of display sucks. But when streaming through Bluetooth on my phone it's perfect.

Good to know. I'd like the clean look and fewer destractions of a remote mounted HU but I may just keep it in the stock location.

[mrpham]

Toda High Compression Pistons! - http://omgpham.com/toda-high-compression-pistons

Welllll than...... A couple new things in this update, and possibly a second post regarding some stuff I've been 3D modelling for the build.

First up, managed to install this 5V oil pressure sender and input it into the Megasquirt for full datalogging and dash display through Shadow Dash. The tablet mounted using two magnetic mounts clipped to the eye-ball vents. Works very well and has a very strong hold.

It was surprisingly easy to get working, the sender needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU. I happened to use the AD6 input on my Megasquirt, and TunerStudio has a built in wizard to configure your sender.





Developed a slight oil leak into cylinder no. 4 so took valve cover off to replace the gasket. Remember to go genuine valve cover gasket! I've had nothing but trouble with non-genuine valve cover gaskets.




Finally bought some new tyres and fresh alignment done! Hankook RS3 225/45 R15.



Received and installed my IL Motorsport bonnet lifts, not sure if I like them yet.



Next up, I had some spare parts accumulating and was able to put together this LED bar kit. It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator, the LED light bar and associated electronics (now enclosed in water-proof case) are mounted just behind the front bar.






Garage Star Coil-on-Plug adapter acquired!



Toda forged pistons!!! They are 11.0:1 compression ratio and +3mm overbore, made from a special alloy with very littler thermal expansion which allows it to run factory Mazda piston-to-bore clearances. Toda also designed the skirt to allow usage of factory oil squirters. I also ordered the matching overbore head gasket from Toda.




Some close ups of the pistons.

[mrpham]

3D Modelling & Printing - http://omgpham.com/3d-modelling-printing

Ahoy!

Lately I've been spending more time learning how to model parts in 3D, still new so bare with me. It's not a new concept to me, but I am using Fusion 360 mainly now and sometimes a bit of SolidWorks.

I've done some prints in the past, a good example would be the bulk head connector plate I drew up and printed. Had it installed in the car while I waited for the final piece to be laser cut from steel.




And now I'm starting to move onto slightly more detailed designs. Starting of with "remixing" a design from Thingiverse.

4AGE Black Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25207

And my "remixed" version, which is basically modified for Silver Top engines instead of Black Top and increasing overall length to 115mm.

4AGE Silver Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016083



I than scrapped that design altogether and did one from scratch, increased the radius lip profile and removed the side bracing. The print below was done in ABS and I'll be testing it for clearance and heat resistance. If all goes well, I'll most likely print my final design in ABS. If not, other materials like Nylon and Poly-carbonate are alternative options for heat resistance.





And this is another*design I quickly modelled. Main differences being the bottom flange, length adjusted to 105mm and the dimpled internal surface. NO idea how that'll work for airflow, good or bad, but it's fun drawing these and 3D printing them! The idea is from dimpled surfaces on golf balls, and I've seen shops machine dimples onto the back of inlet valves and cylinder head ports.




And this is how the print came out.... About halfway up the velocity stack, the wall was a tiny bit too thin and the dimples were too deep! Not something I was expecting, but I'll learn from this one and make revisions. This print was also done at 300 micron layer height, I think it needs to be 100-200 micro next time.




And finally, this is an airbox/plenum that will mount to my current Pipercross filter plate. Still needs some work here and there, but I'm pretty set on the general shape of it and the inlet is 4.5" diameter. The final product could be moulded from the 3D print and made with carbon fibre, or possible printed entirely out of fibre infused nylon for strength and heat resistance.



More to come!

[BRGNA8]

Always love reading about this on your FB page man! Really wanna hear those ITBS!!

[atlex]

omg sexy 3d ... sexier reality. will the dimples improve power ?

[mrpham]

omg sexy 3d ... sexier reality. will the dimples improve power ?

Probably not but it's fun to make lol

[— freedomgli —]

5V oil pressure sender... needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU.

I have a real OPG but I'd like to be able to datalog this (along with oil temp) and have a big red warning light, too. I just need to figure out how exactly to wire the analog sensor power and ground. Love your Shadow Dash setup. I want to do this also.

It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator

[HarryB]

Great updates! Could you provide a bit more info on the sensor itself (model, pickup location etc).

[mrpham]

Always love reading about this on your FB page man! Really wanna hear those ITBS!!

Thanks man! Ditto though, always love seeing progress on your resto

I have a real OPG but I'd like to be able to datalog this (along with oil temp) and have a big red warning light, too. I just need to figure out how exactly to wire the analog sensor power and ground. Love your Shadow Dash setup. I want to do this also.

As long as its 0-5V, should be easy to connect but that's as far as my knowledge goes on the matter. I've also completely stopped using MSDroid and RealDash, both are buggy and I couldn't see myself paying for their pro versions. Shadow Dash has been amazing, and the ability to customise the gauges through Tuner Studio is handy.

Great updates! Could you provide a bit more info on the sensor itself (model, pickup location etc).

Definitely!

The sender you can use are about $10USD off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222207317609

You'll also need a male 1/8-28 BSP to female 1/8-27 NPT adapter. I removed the factory oil pressure sender and replaced it with this sensor, it does mean you'll lose function of the cluster oil pressure gauge. Still investigating how I can use both senders without using a Tee-piece.

And in terms of wiring it into your ECU, that's a little more tricky because I think it'll be different for each car.

[mrpham]

Did some small revisions to my airbox design, also quickly mocked up the rest of the components for it. And looks like I'll probably have the airbox printed using Taulman Nylon Alloy 910, very strong and should hold up against the heat.

Inlet diameter on the airbox is 108mm (4.25"). The duct will be made using laser-cut aluminium sheet, it will also hold the 300mm x 300mm panel filter. I'm planning on mounting the duct under the radiator support alongside a half-sized radiator from a Honda Civic. This should be give me the lowest air temps as well as providing good filtration and high flow.

[— Phatmiata —]

Wow this looks great!!!